Why does the soil in seedlings become moldy? Why is there a white coating in a flower pot and what to do about it? Why is there a white coating on the soil of indoor plants?

Beginning gardeners sooner or later face the problem of a whitened layer of substrate in a pot, and this often causes a feeling of concern for indoor plants. In fact, this soil condition is not a serious problem that can greatly harm the plant, but the accompanying factors are dangerous. Today we will look in detail at the causes of white plaque and look at how to deal with this problem and what to do in the future to prevent this condition of the substrate from happening again.

Problems with soil in a pot

Very often, indoor flowers die due to improper care, which primarily affects the substrate and thereby harms the roots of the plant.

White coating on the surface

When the substrate turns white flower pot- this is a sign that the plant is not being properly cared for, so first of all it is necessary to identify the factors that caused the problem.
Reasons for appearance

There are several reasons for the appearance of a whitened substrate, among them are:

  • Too much frequent watering – salts appear on the soil surface due to active evaporation of water.
  • Irregular poor watering– salts can accumulate on the soil surface. IN in this case the bottom layer of soil in the pot petrifies, and water only moistens top layer substrate, which causes the appearance of a white coating.
  • Insufficient air humidity causes the liquid that has entered the flower pot to evaporate intensively - in this case, salts actively accumulate on the top layer of the substrate. The soil becomes saline, which affects the normal development of plants.
  • Excess fertilizer. If flowers are fed very often or the concentration of fertilizer is too high, the substrate may become covered with a white crust.
  • Incorrectly selected substrate for growing indoor flowers. When purchasing it in a store, pay attention to the label. There are cases of purchasing a universal substrate that is used for growing seedlings. Such soil is specially treated with numerous fertilizers in order to stimulate rapid growth seeds In this regard, a white coating begins to form on the surface, and this can have a detrimental effect on the health of indoor flowers.
  • Failure to comply with the ratio of the volume of the pot to the size of the plant. As you know, experienced gardeners recommend choosing the size of the pot so that it is only slightly larger than the plant that will be planted in it. If you neglect this rule and buy a large pot, pour a lot of substrate into it and plant a small plant, then its roots will not be able to absorb the moisture that will be added to the soil. Thus, with active evaporation of the liquid, the surface will quickly become covered with a white coating.

There are several options for dealing with white plaque on the soil in flower pots. You need to independently choose a more suitable method in accordance with the cause of this problem.

To make plaque on the substrate form more slowly and be almost invisible, it is recommended to sprinkle it with expanded clay on top.

It is worth considering the fact that through certain time white plaque can also settle on expanded clay: in this case, the upper drainage is removed, washed well and placed back in the pot.

There is another option to combat the problem - for this they use river sand. It is poured over the substrate and the soil is loosened well using a wooden stick. Such manipulation will not only avoid the appearance of white plaque on the substrate, but will also be beneficial to the roots.

The fastest and in a simple way is to remove the top layer of the substrate with whitened soil, and replace it with fresh soil.
If you have established that the reason for the appearance of a white coating on the soil is the dry air in the room, it is recommended to place the pot on a tray with expanded clay, which is regularly sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This will create the necessary humidity around the pot and prevent the problem from developing.

Mold in flower pots

Often the appearance of white plaque is associated with a biological cause - the development of fungal spores and the appearance of mold on the substrate. This situation is provoked improper care behind the flower or the influence of other negative environmental factors.

Did you know? Mold is one of the oldest living organisms on the planet: it appeared more than 200 million years ago. During its existence, mold has been able to adapt to the most difficult natural conditions and survive on glaciers, in radioactive zones and outer space.


Often the first mold appears in the place where the soil and the pot come into contact. The effect of such an interaction is characterized by a white or brownish coating that spreads with great speed. If you do not deal with the cause of the development of this problem, the air becomes saturated with a large number of fungal spores, and after a while rapidly developing colonies of fungi form and the flower dies.

Reasons for appearance

In most cases, the occurrence of mold in a pot is a consequence of the influence of some negative factors on the substrate.

In this case, there are several reasons for the development of mold:

  1. Excessive watering and stagnation of liquid in the substrate. As a result of constant waterlogging, fungal spores quickly develop and mold forms.
  2. Low temperature and high humidity in the room are a favorable environment for the development of fungus.
  3. Regular watering of the soil with cold water.
  4. Neglect of drainage or improper use of it leads to blockage of the holes in the pot and provokes stagnation of water in the soil, which causes the spread of fungus.
  5. Using soil already contaminated with mold spores for planting flowers.

Important! Often, the fungus develops in poorly ventilated areas in the spring and autumn, when air humidity is high, the apartment is cold, and the evaporation of moisture from the soil is minimal.


Often the reason for the development of mold in a pot is excessive watering and humidity, so if fungal foci have been noticed in the substrate, it is necessary first of all to adjust the watering schedule. To do this, the frequency of watering is reduced and the volume of liquid is reduced.

If the flower requires rare but abundant watering, after each moistening of the soil, it is necessary to loosen the substrate with a wooden stick to the maximum depth, reaching the drainage.

When loosening, you must act very carefully so as not to damage the roots.

In order to protect the flower from damage and remove mold from the pot, it is recommended to do the following manipulations:

  1. Scrape off outer part substrate affected by fungus. This manipulation must be done as soon as the first lesions are detected. mold. If you delay removal, the infection will begin to penetrate into the inner layer of soil, which will cause rotting and death of the plant.
  2. Treat the bottom layer of the substrate with acidic water. To do this, dissolve a teaspoon in a glass of water. citric acid. Thanks to this liquid, fungal spores will not multiply and will soon die.
  3. Cover the missing part of the substrate in the pot with new soil, to which add bactericidal agents designed specifically to resist fungi. For this, charcoal, crushed into small pieces, or sphagnum is suitable.
  4. After these manipulations, the substrate is watered with a solution of “Fundazol” (1 liter of water and 2 g of product). If mold has infected a flower, it is also treated with this solution from a spray bottle.

Treat the bottom layer of the substrate with citric acid

If you notice that mold has spread to the lower layers of the substrate, you can try to save the flower by replanting it. To do this, carefully remove it from the pot and clean the roots from the substrate as thoroughly as possible. Next, plant the flower as usual.

Some gardeners use chemicals, which are designed to combat mold, you can find out more about them in a specialized store.

Important! When selecting such products, you must carefully read the label on the drug to be sure that it will not harm the plant.

Midges in the ground

Often indoor flowers are affected by midges, which appear as a result of non-compliance with the rules of care. The most common are sciarids - flower midges that concentrate on both the soil and the green part of the plant. They do not harm the flower, but their larvae can cause severe damage - affecting growth, causing leaves and flowers to wither.
Reasons for appearance

Among the main causes of midges are:

  1. Excessive watering of plants. Constantly waterlogged soil is an ideal place for midges to live and breed.
  2. Infection of the land that was purchased for replanting the plant.
  3. Watering a flower with liquids that are not intended for this purpose. For example, some housewives prefer to water their indoor plants with tea leaves, which sometimes causes pest damage.

There are several effective methods that are capable of controlling pests. These include: physical, chemical and folk.

Physical methods of pest extermination include:

  • replanting into new soil. To do this, the flower is carefully removed from the pot, the roots are cleared of contaminated soil, and replanting is done in the usual way, taking into account all the characteristics of the plant;

Important! The pot in which the flower was located must be washed well with soapy water and doused with boiling water.

  • partial replacement of the substrate. If there are not many midges, you can remove them by replacing the top layer of soil. To do this, it is carefully scraped off and thrown away, and the voids are filled with fresh substrate.

Chemicals for exterminating pests are purchased in specialized stores. Using such tools is quite simple, and they quickly cope with the task. Such drugs are presented in the form of “Fly-eater”, “Agravertine”, . They must be used in accordance with the instructions indicated on the label.

Among the folk remedies in the fight against midges are the use of:

  • potassium permanganate solution. To do this, dilute a liter of water on the tip of a knife so that the liquid turns a light pink tint. Water the flower with the resulting mixture once every 5 days and regularly spray it with a spray bottle;
  • improvised means. These include tobacco, garlic or orange peel, which are distributed over the surface of the substrate. Such products, thanks to their smell, repel midges and prevent them from existing normally.

VIDEO: HOW TO GET RID OF FLIES USING CINNAMON

Unpleasant odor from soil in a flower pot

Sometimes it happens that the soil in the pot begins to smell unpleasant - this is a sign that the substrate has soured and the process of rotting of the root system of the flower has begun. This problem is directly related to improper care, and in order to save the plant, you need to act as soon as you notice the first signs of souring.

Reasons for appearance

Among the most common causes of soil acidification are the following:

  1. Untimely replanting of a plant from the substrate in which it was located when purchased at a flower shop. Such soil is too moisture-intensive and often causes the plant to rot.
  2. Growing in severe clay soil, which is not suitable for this plant and provokes its rotting.
  3. Excessive regular watering, especially during winter, or moving the flower to a dark, cold place.
  4. No drainage or drainage holes.
  5. The size of the pot does not match the size of the plant.

Due to acidification of the soil, the risk of complete death of the plant is very high, so in order to save it, it is necessary to remove the flower from the pot and inspect it root system. If the roots are not damaged, then the earth ball is wrapped in newspaper or special absorbent material in several layers. The plant is placed in a warm place, away from direct sunlight.

Change the moisture-absorbing material periodically until liquid stops leaking from the ground.
After the lump has dried, it is dipped in perlite and planted in an old pot. For some time after planting, it is recommended to loosen the soil to ensure air access to the root system of the plant.

If, after you have removed the earthen ball, rotting of the roots is discovered, you should resort to replanting the plant into a new substrate. To do this, the roots of the plant are cleaned as much as possible from the old substrate, rotten roots are cut off and the cut site is treated with crushed charcoal or activated carbon. Next, the plant is planted in fresh soil.

Did you know? Experienced flower growersoften used as drainage - it is able to absorb salts, which will save the soil from acidification. By accumulating excess liquid, coal prevents waterlogging, and during periods of lack of watering it releases moisture to the plant.

Preventive measures

In order not to subject plants to tests in the form of mold fungi, midges or souring of the substrate, it is necessary to follow some rules in caring for the soil in flower pots and regularly resort to preventive measures.

TO preventive measures include:

  1. Regular, but not excessive watering.
  2. Choosing a pot according to the size of the plant.
  3. Good drainage, which is selected according to the size of the holes in the pot so that they do not become blocked.
  4. Regular loosening of the soil for normal access of oxygen and seepage of liquid to the lower layers of the substrate.
  5. Treat the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate once a month.
  6. Systematic ventilation of the room in which the plants are located, maintaining optimal temperature and air humidity.
  7. Using high-quality soil, which is sold in specialized stores and packaged in factory bags.
  8. Disinfection of purchased soil before planting a flower with potassium permanganate.

Thus, the appearance of mold, white residue, unpleasant odor or midges in the soil flower pots directly related to improper plant care. To avoid unpleasant consequences, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of flower care and follow preventive measures, and if any problem arises, act immediately to keep the plant healthy.

We received a letter on our website from Irina Khromova from Nizhny Novgorod. She writes: “My hobby is growing indoor flowers. But here comes the attack. Usually in late autumn a white coating appears on the ground in a flower pot and often my favorite flowers die because of it. Please tell us how to save indoor plants if there is a white coating on the ground in the pot?”

Dear Irina. Most often, the white coating is salt protruding to the surface of the soil. There are many reasons for this phenomenon. For example, the soil is too heavy in mechanical composition or, conversely, too thin, sandy, and poor in organic matter that absorbs salts. The consequence of this is high soil capillarity. Moisture, as if through a filter, is drawn to the surface of the soil, evaporates from it and leaves streaks of salt. The same thing happens if you add a large amount of sphagnum to a flower pot. Well, if a white coating appears on the ground in a flower pot, then the plant develops poorly and may even die.

Another reason for the appearance of a white coating on the ground in a flower pot is when soil mixture overfertilized. This usually affects purchased mixtures, especially those intended for vegetables or for plants grown in open ground.

Planting a plant in a flower pot that is too large can also lead to the formation of a white coating on the ground. The plant here is not able to absorb moisture and it, evaporating, draws salts to the surface of the earth.

Excessive feeding also leads to the formation of white plaque. Should not be entered nutrient solutions higher concentration than 1 g/l, and for ferns and orchids - 0.5 g/l.

White coating on the soil indoor plants Too hard water can also cause this. It is softened by boiling, but it is better to then settle it and drain it from the sediment. The addition of oxalic acid will virtually eliminate total or carbonate hardness. Usually it is required to add no more than 22.5 mg of oxalic acid per 1 liter of water.

It should also be taken into account that if the air in the room is too dry, evaporation from the surface of the earth in the flower pot increases, which can lead to the appearance of a white coating. For example, in closed greenhouses and greenhouses there is never a salt crust on the ground.

And in a flower pot, a white coating on the ground may be ordinary mold. It can be identified by the fact that it is soft, does not smear and does not crunch when rubbed with your fingers. It is not dangerous for adult plants, but it indicates excessive watering.

How to save indoor plants if there is a white coating on the ground in a pot?

In addition to the above measures, you can improve ventilation in the room and regulate watering of plants. It is also necessary to remove the top layer of soil with a white coating and add a new soil mixture. To get rid of mold, you can sprinkle the soil in a flower pot with cinnamon powder. It has good antiseptic properties.

White plaque in a flower pot is one of the most common problems in indoor floriculture. Many begin to notice that the top layer of soil begins to turn white over time. It is difficult to determine the nature of such a phenomenon with the naked eye.

Why does the soil in pots become covered with a white coating?

Floriculture experts identify two main reasons: fungal (bacteriological) and salt (mineral).

Protrusion of salts

The salt reason is as follows:

  1. Watering the soil with regular unfiltered tap water can cause a white coating to form in pots of indoor flowers. The fact is that such water is mostly excessively heavy, which accelerates the liming of the soil after repeated watering. The layer of lime makes it difficult to saturate the soil with oxygen.

    White plaque in flower pots: causes and methods of control

    To avoid this, you should leave the water at room temperature for at least 24 hours before watering. Or water the plants with a light solution of citric acid: 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water.

  2. A white layer on the surface of the soil in a pot may be salt, which is formed due to too tight drainage or oversaturation of the soil mineral fertilizers. During the dormant period of the plant, the soil should be mixed with lighter soil and the amount of bottom drainage should be reduced. And also reduce the amount of fertilizing. If this problem appears during the active flowering phase, then you can remove only the top layer of soil and add a layer of new soil. Or additionally sprinkle the ground with expanded clay, which will absorb excess moisture and create a decorative appearance.
  3. Insufficient watering of the plant. There should be enough water so that the plant does not dry out. Flowers should be watered according to the watering recommendations for each specific plant type.

Fungal infection

One more unpleasant reason The reason why the soil in the pot becomes covered with a white coating may be a fungus. Mold is virtually harmless to adults and healthy plants, but is detrimental to seedlings and can affect the condition of a weakened flower.

Fungal infection occurs:

  • due to waterlogging of the soil in the pot;
  • at low temperature;
  • in poorly ventilated areas.

Or fungal spores may already be in the soil in which the plant is planted. In this case, frequent watering promotes increased bacterial development. To avoid this, you should water the soil only when its top layer dries out. The room should be ventilated regularly. Special ones work well against fungus antifungal agents for soil.

To figure out why there is a white coating on the ground in a pot with your favorite flower, you do not need to have special knowledge in botany, it is enough not to overdo it in caring for it and follow the basic requirements.

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Orchid roots came out of the pot

Orchids delight our eyes with their unusual, very delicate and extremely long flowering. Their roots, like indicators, can show us that we are not caring for the flower correctly. This becomes especially obvious when a large number of roots stick out from the pot in all directions.

A white or white-yellow salt crust on the surface of the soil mixture in a pot appears due to the predominance of purely physical evaporation of water from the soil over transpiration by the plant.

There are several reasons.

The mechanical composition of the soil is too heavy. As a consequence, its high capillarity and intensive drawing of water to the soil surface.

Difficult drainage at the bottom of the pot and, as a result, evaporation from the soil surface as the main route of water consumption.

Mistakes when watering: poor watering, when the amount of water applied per watering is only sufficient to wet the surface layer.
Watering can be rare, but should be plentiful, flushing the entire soil mass.

Over-fertilized soil mixture. Many of their manufacturers are guilty of this, especially when preparing mixtures for vegetables. In general, this is a problem when you use store-bought formulations. For some reason, manufacturers for the most part are confident that a fertilized soil mixture from the heart is a virtue. It’s as if they don’t know that all transplants are only done in an unfertilized environment! The next careful feeding only after obvious signs rooting.

Violation of the principle of correspondence between the volume of soil in the pot and the assimilative capacity of the roots of a given plant. There should not be significant volumes of soil not developed by the root system.
Otherwise, again the predominance of physical evaporation over transpiration.

Errors in dosing fertilizers (overdose), as well as applying fertilizers during the plant's dormant period. For some reason, current manufacturers began to recommend solution concentrations of 2 g/l or more. This is not true. Guaranteed non-toxic concentration in general case can be recognized as 1 g/l, and for certain groups of plants (ferns, orchids) 0.5 g/l and even 0.1 g/l.

And of course, the notorious softness of irrigation water. Look at its quality everyone in your city. If the amount of water required for irrigation is insignificant, you can use filtration using some sophisticated filter with an ion exchanger: it will remove chlorine, calcium, magnesium, and, for example, useful potassium will add. But this is not for bucket volumes - it’s expensive. Oxalic acid is a reliable softener, but litmus testing is required, because The initial content of Ca and Mg in water is generally unknown.

Dry air. Dry air strongly stimulates physical evaporation, which again leads to the removal of salts to the soil surface. Salts supplied with water from the soil remain in the leaves after it evaporates - this is the normal mechanism of mineral nutrition. But with increased evaporation, excess salts accumulate in the leaves, and over time their concentration rises to dangerous levels. In dry air, evaporation from the surface of the soil is also high, and salts also accumulate there. Soil salinity occurs (in the form of deposits on the soil surface), which provokes plant diseases. In the room where flowers grow, air humidity must be constantly monitored and regulated. This is why there is no salt crust with “bottle” culture, in various closed greenhouses and greenhouses. However, raising the air humidity in an apartment is an even more dreary task than cleaning irrigation water.

Of course, any of the above reasons can be combined!

And one more thing - a white coating on the surface of the soil in a pot can be caused by the development of fungal microflora from excessive watering and to get rid of it, you need to water the plant only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried.

Sometimes mold lives in the purchased soil. Not necessarily from excessive watering; often purchased land is just like that. One even gets the impression that it is scattered from one container into different bags. Yes, from one package, in one case the soil may “bloom” with white mold, or “wait” for some time. Adult plants usually do not suffer much from this, but there is some danger.

Why does a white coating sometimes appear on the soil of indoor plants?

But young seedlings may die. Mold, even with normal watering, in especially sad cases, grows and permeates the entire soil in the pot. Then you need to replant, completely change the entire soil, use fungicides - in general, a long song. But a white-brown coating sometimes appears due to waterlogging of the soil. It has also been noted that the deposit on the surface depends on the composition of the soil; the more peat in the ground, the stronger the deposit on the surface (see point 1).

There are many ways to get rid of it. There is less white and other deposits if you cover the top of the soil in a pot with expanded clay. Then a white dried sediment appears on the expanded clay itself, collect it from time to time and wash it, then put it back in place.

It is recommended to sprinkle the soil river sand and loosen the top layer of soil (along with sand). Loosening the soil with the addition of sand is very beneficial for plant roots. You can remove the top layer and add high-quality leaf or humus soil.

You can simply remove all the white layer of soil and add new soil.

Stores sell soil deoxidizer. The top layer of soil with plaque is removed and a little deeper and a deoxidizing agent is poured. It is good to water flowers with aquarium water.

If it is still mold, drying the soil temporarily stops the process, but the next time you water it it starts with a vengeance. Collect it and sprinkle the soil in the pot with activated crushed carbon, this protects against rotting and mold growth. In addition to coal, periodically loosen the top layer and add other healthy soil. Well, in the future, it is better to transplant the plant into a normal substrate, wash the pot with a stiff brush and laundry soap. Serious measures include watering the soil with foundationazole, hom or oxychome.

Infection of a plant with a fungus starts a slow process of death. The symptoms are the following: yellowing and falling leaves, stopping the development of buds that do not bloom. If measures are not taken, houseplants infected with powdery mildew will die, and in their place only bare branches covered with a whitish coating will remain.

How to deal with white plaque

Disease prevention

Before you begin to actively fight mold on indoor plants, you need to find out the reason for its formation and solve this problem. Otherwise, all actions will be in vain - the mold will return again and again. Another reason for this strategy: knowing the source of the problem, it will be easier to avoid the return of the fungus in the future.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the humidity level in the room. Musty humid air - ideal conditions for the development of mold spores. Start by ensuring your indoor plants are well ventilated.

Another probable reason is feeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers. Change the diet of your plants: try feeding the soil with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.

Traditional methods of treating white plaque

Prevention is very important, but if the enemy has already taken you by surprise, radical methods of struggle are needed. Continue to maintain a healthy indoor environment by ventilating and watering the plants regularly, making sure the plants receive enough sunlight, and looking for any fungus-affected leaves and trimming them.

Treatment for powdery mildew itself should be started as soon as possible, because fungal spores spread very quickly.

Having no experience in such work, people often turn to folk methods that fill forums on the Internet.

For example, some advise using slurry to spray plants.

Someone claims that effective method is spraying with a solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of soda and soap.

Garlic tincture is also recognized as an effective weapon against fungus on plants.

Why is there a white coating in a flower pot and what to do about it

You can try all these methods and see from your own experience the effectiveness of one or another. But experience shows: traditional methods are ineffective, and the effect that can be achieved, unfortunately, turns out to be short-lived.

Not knowing how to deal with white plaque professionally, many naively rely on the effectiveness of folk methods. Of course, by typing in a search engine the query “ powdery mildew treatment,” there are many original home techniques for eliminating the disease. Some people advise diluting slurry and spraying flowers with it, others suggest a more complex recipe: spray the plants at intervals of 5-7 days, first with a solution of potassium permanganate, then with a solution of soda ash and soap, and finish with garlic tincture. As practice shows, the percentage of effectiveness of homemade recipes is low; as a rule, owners of “home gardens” who are carried away by the struggle lose valuable time, which leads to the death of plants.

Treatment of powdery mildew

You can try to cure the plants yourself. This will require antibiotics. For spraying, take streptomycin (250 units/ml), penicillin (100 units/ml) and terramycin (100 units/ml). This mixture is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio and used for spraying on affected plants.

The effect of antibiotics can be very good. However, not one hundred percent.

Professional solution to powdery mildew problem

The ECO-STOLITSA sanitary service specialists have all the necessary resources to solve the problem of mold on house plants. To order professional disinfection, just call the phone number or request a free call back. The visit of a specialist to Moscow and the Moscow region is possible already on the day of your application.

A white coating on the ground in seedlings is a sign that something went wrong when growing it. This is a fairly common problem not only for seedlings, but it can also appear on the top layer of soil of indoor plants. There is no need to worry about this, because if you detect the problem in time, you can deal with it quite successfully.

Signs and causes of plaque

Most often, plaque is a colony of fungal microorganisms. Fungal spores fall from the air into the soil, where they actively begin to multiply, after which surface layer the soil becomes moldy white(sometimes it looks more like yellow - it depends on the strain of mold. Often the coating from the soil spreads to the inner walls of the containers in which your seedlings grow.

Fungal spores are present in the air, but they begin to multiply only when they find themselves in an environment favorable to them. The following factors favor them:

  1. Excessive air/substrate humidity.
  2. Poor lighting.
  3. Temperatures below 20 degrees Celsius.

The second option for covering the ground with a white coating is efflorescence, that is, small crystals of salts. It manifests itself only in the soil and does not spread to the walls of pots. It is easy to distinguish it from mold: it is harder, and when you try to knead it, it simply crumbles. If you look closely, you can see the crystalline structure.

Here's what causes it to appear:

  1. The pot is too large or simply overwatered. In this case, the plant does not have time to absorb the entire volume of water, the moisture evaporates, and the salts contained in it are drawn to the surface.
  2. Use for irrigation of hard water.
  3. Dry indoor air.
  4. Lack of drainage holes in the container.
  5. Excess fertilizer.

What to do if you find a white coating?

The easiest way to “defeat” crystalline plaque:

  1. Dry the soil thoroughly. The best way To do this, place the pot in the sun.
  2. Filming thin layer soil with a coating.
  3. We loosen the soil underneath.
  4. Next, water the seedlings only with settled water (at least 24 hours), making sure not to overwater.

If the ground is covered with mold, it will be a little more difficult to remove the plaque. First of all, we also dry the soil and remove the layer of soil. But usually this is not enough, and after watering, the growth of the mycelium resumes with renewed vigor.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to disinfect the soil. You can do this in one of the following ways:

  1. We are preparing a solution of potassium permanganate with a low concentration, the water should be slightly pink color. We spill the soil with this solution, making sure that its entire surface is wetted.
  2. We use hydrogen peroxide, the required concentration: 5 milliliters of a 30% solution per liter of water. There is no need to water the soil with peroxide; we spray the surface with a spray bottle.
  3. If all else fails, you can use special fungicides (substances that selectively destroy fungi): trichodermin, trichocin. We use them according to the instructions.

Mold grows well in highly acidic soil, so good option The way to combat it is to use special deoxidizers sold in stores (dolomite flour, tree resin or ordinary lime).

They need to be applied to a surface that is free of fungus. The effect can be enhanced by adding deoxidizers leaf soil and humus.

One more thing good remedy to combat mold - Fitosporin-M. It can be used not only when plaque has already appeared, but also in advance. This drug protects against any bacterial and fungal diseases, is safe, environmentally friendly and is itself an organic fertilizer.

It is a culture of bacteria beneficial to plants, Bacillis subtilis, preserved in the substrate, which hunt harmful microorganisms, preventing infection. The drug is diluted in accordance with the instructions and is subsequently used to water the seedlings every third time (two waterings with ordinary water, the third with Fitosporin-M).

Preventive measures

The best way to combat plaque is to prevent its appearance even before the ground turns white. First of all, the soil used for growing seedlings must be disinfected.

This can be done using temperature treatment: heating in the oven or, conversely, freezing for up to several days. Next, the soil is washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and then dried. You can begin planting work.

After the seedlings are planted, it is worth mulching the soil (covering it with mulch on top for protection). It is best to use ash, charcoal or crushed activated carbon as mulch for seedlings. This helps retain moisture at the roots of the plant and prevents mold from forming.

The next important element of prevention is proper watering. Be sure to take these tips into account:

  1. Using hard water is almost guaranteed to lead to salt deposits. If you are unlucky with the quality of your water supply, use a special filter. In extreme cases, let the water sit for at least 24 hours.
  2. You can additionally soften the water by immersing a rag bag filled with peat in a container with it while it settles.
  3. There must be water room temperature, too cold or hot will not work.
  4. Under no circumstances should you water too often or overwater.

Follow all these measures - and you won’t have to watch the surface of the soil turn white, and your seedlings will be strong and healthy!

White mold forms in flower pots. Besides worrying about how to get rid of it, the question arises: what is the cause of its occurrence?

Factors contributing to mold formation

The main reason for the appearance of white plaque on the soil is a fungal infection. There are several conditions necessary for its development. Mold in a flower pot is formed due to both low temperature and high humidity in the room, and improper watering(excessive or frequent). Clogged drainage holes at the bottom of the plant container and a substrate that does not match the type of planting also contribute to the development of fungus.

Mold in a flower pot often appears when cloudy autumn days arrive. During this period, plants absorb less water, and what remains in the ground due to lower air temperatures evaporates slowly. As moisture accumulates, it creates favorable conditions for the development of infection.

Prevention measures and methods of getting rid of mold

To stop the formation of fungal plaque in the pot, it is recommended to reduce the volume of water for watering the plant and the frequency of the procedure. For faster evaporation excess moisture You can carefully loosen the substrate around it so as not to damage the roots of the flower. It should be remembered that improper care can lead to the development of infection both in anthurium, which requires a lot of moisture, and in cactus, which is unpretentious. Having found out why there is mold in a flower pot, we can come to the conclusion that its appearance does not depend on the condition of the plant, but on external factors.

To combat the fungus, you should clean the bottom holes of the vessel for the plant, ensure good drainage and reduce the frequency of watering. Perhaps the flower does not have time to absorb the entire volume of moisture, as a result of which it evaporates and forms a salt coating on the surface of the earth. It is better to water the plant less often and more abundantly than sparingly, but often. This promotes complete washing of the soil layer.

Changing the environment as a way to save a plant

If changing the watering regime does not bring effective results, mold in a flower pot can be defeated in another way. First of all, the plant should be transplanted into a smaller vessel. If the root system does not allow this, then you can only replace it. Before replanting, it is recommended to thoroughly wash the pot and scald it with boiling water. The ideal option is to boil it completely in a saucepan or bucket for a while. Then you need to dry the vessel and pour drainage material on its bottom. In order to get rid of microorganisms that form mold in a flower pot, new soil must be calcined on a stove or steamed over boiling water before planting. This rule also applies to soil purchased from a specialty store, since it can also be contaminated and therefore require treatment. To steam, the soil can be placed in a colander over boiling water.

White plaque on the soil in flower pots is a problem that not only novice flower growers encounter, but also experienced lovers of home oases. Plaque brings with it many troubles: the flower becomes sluggish, mold and rot appear, roots rot, midges begin to fly.

Many people believe that main reason a white coating on the ground is an excess of moisture, but this is not entirely true. Let's try to understand this problem and find out the reasons for the white coating on the ground in flower pots and how to remove it at home.

If a white or yellow coating has already formed on the surface, it means that the flower was flooded with hard water. Plaque is a limescale deposit that forms when it is watered with unsettled water. It is already becoming clear why a white coating appears on the ground in flower pots

What to do if a white coating appears on the ground in flower pots?

  1. Remove the plant root from the pot and let it dry for 1 hour.
  2. Replant the plant in fresh soil.
  3. If there is no soil, then the contents of the slide should be shaken out and dried in the microwave.
  4. Spill it with boiling water and bactericidal agents.
  5. Plant the flower and dry again for 10-15 minutes.
  6. Further, it can be reused.

Is the soil in the pot covered with a green or white coating (mold)? It will be much easier to correct the situation. It is necessary to pour sand, ash or clay on top of the main lump. They will help by absorbing excess water. You can use another option: fluff up the soil well and make deep punctures in it, they will also rid the contents of excess moisture

You can simply cover the soil in the pots with paper towels - the easiest way.

Don't forget to check the drainage holes in pots, they often become clogged and excess water accumulates at the bottom of the container, causing rot and bad smell.


What to do:

  1. Avoid watering with unsettled water.
  2. Before watering, you can add 0.5 teaspoon of citric acid or juice from one lemon to the water.
  3. Remove the top layer of soil and fill the area with fresh leaf substrate.
  4. Install water purification filters in your home.
  5. It is useful to immerse peat bags in water and let it sit with them.

For preventative purposes, it is useful to pour expanded clay or coarse river sand on top of the soil in a pot and fluff up the soil.

Mold control methods

The constant moisture of the soil provokes mold infection, and the flowerpot becomes a real nursery. Proper watering and free drainage holes prevent stagnation. But what to do if the soil is already contaminated and there are bugs?

  1. Stop watering.
  2. Dry the root system.
  3. Replace the top layer of soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.

If these measures are not successful, then it will be necessary to completely replant the plant.

Transplanting a plant

To do this, the earthen ball along with the roots is pulled out of the pot and left to dry for 2 days. If a ceramic pot is used for planting, then it needs to be boiled for 20 minutes; if the pot is plastic or plastic, it is better to get rid of it, since there are fungal spores on its edges that will still remain fertile for several years.


After two days, you need to gently shake the roots and disinfect them. The old soil should be thrown away, and before planting, the new soil should be steamed in a water bath or in the microwave.

Expanded clay must be placed at the bottom of the pot, then soil is poured, a flower is planted and the top is sprinkled with coarse river sand. What will this give? First of all, regulating the flow of air to the roots, and therefore reducing humidity. This method will also help if the overflow is small and random.

Soil disinfection

The soil disinfection method is considered one of the most effective. It not only helps eliminate odor and mold, but also completely destroys spores.


The procedure is carried out according to plan:

  1. Clear the roots from the soil as much as possible.
  2. Collect the soil and put it in a container.
  3. Pour boiling water over it.
  4. Pierce in the oven for 30 minutes.
  5. Cool completely.
  6. Treat the pot with a disinfectant.
  7. Pour the soil into the pots and plant the plant.

The soil can also be kept in a water bath. For this purpose, pour water into a pan, place a colander or sieve on top with gauze folded in several layers. When the water boils, add soil and cover with a lid. The soil is steamed in this way for at least 30 minutes. The plant is planted after the soil has completely cooled.

The soil must be fertilized or fed with minerals; you can add yeast.

Store-bought mold repellents

The purchased products are great for removing mold. Today they are sold in large quantities in specialized flower shops. The seller will select the necessary preparation for its intended purpose for treating the soil cover or the plant itself, and will tell you what to do with it.

You should always pay attention to the instructions, which indicate what plants it is intended for. Otherwise, the flower may get burned or die.


Also consider the selection options chemical agent:

  1. Features of the plant.
  2. For what type of soil?
  3. Availability of applied fertilizers over the last month.
  4. The amount of fungal infection spreading.

It's best to choose already ready solution organic origin. They already contain ingredients that block the further proliferation of fungal spores in the soil.


Traditional methods of treating white plaque

There are also folk remedies combat mold on the ground, but they are effective only at the very beginning of the disease.

  • after planting the plant, sprinkle the ground with sand or expanded clay;
  • if mold has already begun to appear, replant the plant in another soil, and place a few cloves of garlic on top until completely dry, then replace them with new ones;
  • when a white coating appears, remove the top layer of soil, add fresh, and place 5-6 tablets on top of the soil activated carbon;
  • A solution of citric acid, 0.5 teaspoon per liter jar, will help get rid of mold. You can water it only those plants that accept acidic soil.

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