Many gardeners enthusiastically take on growing petunia seedlings, imagining magnificent flowering bushes in advance. But the result does not always meet their expectations. Mature strong petunia bushes are difficult to destroy. But seedlings often grow poorly or die for unknown reasons. To help her, you need to understand what is actually happening.

The young growth of petunia that has emerged is pleasing to the eye, but sometimes its growth stops, and sometimes the seedlings completely “freeze.” Why might this happen?

Natural cause. At the stage of the appearance of cotyledons, the seedlings suddenly stop growing and this frightens inexperienced gardeners. Do not worry, at this time active growth of roots occurs, and the development of the above-ground part is slowed down. This period lasts about 2 weeks, and then the seedlings begin to grow again. They continue to care for the seedlings as usual, without taking any special measures. It is only important to maintain the desired level of humidity and temperature.
Excessively high or too low temperature. Overheating of seedlings leads to a significant slowdown in its growth. Most often this happens if the top cover is not removed in time and the seedlings continue to be grown in greenhouse conditions. But values that are too low are not recommended. If the temperature drops to 15°C, the seedlings begin to lag in growth. The difference between day and night temperatures of more than 10°C has the same effect.
Lack of nutrition. During the first 2 weeks, petunia sprouts do not grow due to root development. If active growth does not occur even after this, it means that the seedlings do not have enough nutrients. Suitable for feeding: “Green Kristalon”, “Agricola”, “Florist-Rost”. Spraying the leaves with an aqueous solution of B vitamins promotes active growth.
Dive. After it, growth processes may decrease due to the adaptation of the root system to the new volume of soil. To make the roots grow faster, you can apply Yellow Crystal fertilizer. It will make the roots more powerful.

It should also be taken into account that petunias have a long growing season and therefore seedlings in general do not grow very quickly. From the moment of sowing until the buds appear, 2.5-3 months pass.

Sometimes problems with seedlings begin from the moment they are planted, sometimes it happens a little later. In each case, the methods for resuscitating seedlings will be different.

If it doesn't grow well

Sometimes it happens that after sowing petunia seeds, the gardener cannot wait for the seedlings to sprout. There may be several reasons for this phenomenon.

The seeds could be expired and dried out, that is, dead. The lack of seedlings also occurs due to deepening during planting. It is difficult for microscopic seeds to break through any obstacle, so they are planted in light, fine-grained soil and not watered until sprouts appear. Petunia seeds need light to germinate.

It happens that pelleted seeds do not germinate. The shell of the granules turns out to be too hard. In all these cases, the seeds will not germinate in either 5 or 10 days. You will have to sow again.

If the seeds have sprouted but have not shed their seed coat, they need help. Otherwise, the cotyledon leaves will not be able to unfold. Drop water from a pipette onto the brown “cap,” wait a little until the shell softens, pry it with a needle, and remove it. If this is not done, the sprout will die.

From all this we can conclude that it is very important to purchase only fresh seed material; be sure to look at the release date on the packaging. It is better to pre-germinate granulated seeds by placing them in a damp cloth for several days and then in a plastic bag. At a temperature of 22-26°C they will germinate in a few days, after which they are carefully moved into a container with soil.

Healthy petunia seedlings always look squat, strong, and have bright green leaves. But due to errors in growing, seedlings can become pale, fragile, and elongated. Such plants will subsequently be incapable of high-quality flowering. Sometimes defective seedlings die altogether. The main reason for this is an unsuitable microclimate:

Insufficient lighting. In February, when they begin to grow petunia seedlings, the daylight hours are too short. natural light plants don’t have enough, so you definitely need to use lighting. The optimal length of daylight for young petunias is 8 hours. If the seedlings do not receive enough light, they will definitely stretch out.
Air humidity does not correspond to optimal values. Too dry air is unfavorable for petunia seedlings. The humidity level should be at 60-65%; if it is lower, the seedlings must be sprayed with warm water.
It is advisable to maintain the room temperature in the range of 22-25°C. If the room is too hot, the petunia begins to grow rapidly and stretches out. This happens if seedlings are kept in a greenhouse for a long time. Remove the cover immediately after the cotyledon leaves appear.

After the cotyledons appear, it is advisable to reduce the temperature to 20°C, while simultaneously increasing the lighting. At the same stage, the seedlings need to be fed with calcium for high-quality rooting. Any complex will do mineral fertilizer low concentration.

After diving, the temperature is reduced a little more - to 16-18°C. This technique will allow you to restrain the growth of leaves while simultaneously growing the root system. During this period, petunia seedlings should receive maximum quantity Sveta. Some illuminate it around the clock using fluorescent lamps.

Picked seedlings need to be hardened off, this will contribute to its health. Hardening procedures begin with ventilation of the room. The window is opened daily for 15-20 minutes, making sure that the petunia is not in a draft. During this period, it is advisable to maintain night temperatures at 14-16°C, and during the day at 20°C.

Capricious petunia often dies due to various reasons at a young age. It often happens that seedlings sprout as soon as the cover is removed. This occurs due to the sharp contrast in air humidity. Too dry indoor air can cause seedlings to instantly wither, deprived of greenhouse conditions. Try to prolong their keeping under the film, lifting it daily for ventilation, let the sprouts get a little stronger.

The main cause of death of petunia seedlings is most often the disease “blackleg”. Defeat always happens unexpectedly. Just yesterday the seedlings were green and looked vigorous, but today they suddenly lay down. Blackleg is caused by a fungus whose spores are found in the soil. That is why it is recommended to sterilize the soil before planting seeds. This is done by calcining it in the oven or pouring it with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate.

Define fungal disease possible by thinning the stem at the point of contact with the ground. The causative agent of the “black leg” is activated upon the onset of favorable conditions. Fungus multiplies in conditions of high humidity and temperature. Increased soil acidity and thickened planting also contribute to this. Therefore, even if you carried out pre-sowing tillage, the seedlings under cover must be ventilated daily.

Note! If, despite everything preventive measures, the “black leg” has nevertheless appeared, the diseased seedlings must be immediately destroyed, and the remaining ones must be transplanted into fresh soil.

Petunia seedlings can become stunted and poorly growing due to a lack of soil for root development. If temperature regime is observed and there are no noticeable signs of fungal diseases, you need to remove the seedling from the glass and inspect its roots. If root system completely entwined the soil, the plant is transplanted into a large container. There is no need to fertilize for the first 7-10 days, and after this time the petunia is fertilized complex preparation containing boron and phosphorus. This fertilizer will support the root system, which has suffered stress from lack of space and subsequent replanting.

Petunia often exhibits leaf chlorosis. New leaves are not green, but yellow. This insidious disease can appear at any stage of seedling development - both in very young seedlings and before planting in open ground. If you do not fight chlorosis, the seedlings will die. The main cause of the disease is iron deficiency. Either there was initially a deficiency of this element in the soil, or weak roots simply could not absorb it.

The best way to combat chlorosis is to spray the leaves with preparations containing iron in an easily digestible form. For this you can use iron chelate, Ferovin and Micro Fe. If there are difficulties in acquiring them, it is permissible to use a weak solution of ferrous sulfate. You can also use a regular complex fertilizer containing iron. Once on the leaves, the mineral will be immediately absorbed, and the symptoms will begin to subside.

Note! If chlorosis appears on flowering seedlings, the buds must be cut off to save the plants strength.

When treatment for chlorosis is started at the initial stage, it can be eliminated quite quickly. But even in advanced cases, the situation is fixable; the main thing is to take action. There is no need to tear off the yellow leaves on the seedlings; after treatment they will restore their color and turn green 2-3 weeks after treatment.

How not to destroy petunias after germination: video

Many people compare petunia seedlings to a capricious child who needs to be provided with maximum attention and care. The main thing is not to miss the moment when a problem appears, which means that the seedlings must be monitored daily. This will help you quickly cope with the disease that has arisen, or even prevent its occurrence.

The delicate beauty of petunia endures the summer heat and cold September nights. She is a real hard worker, her flowering continues from June until late autumn. Difficulties for a novice gardener arise when growing seedlings from seeds. There are many reasons why young petunia seedlings fall and die.

Poor seed germination

In order not to be tormented by the question of why petunia seedlings die, avoid mistakes that inexperienced gardeners make out of ignorance. The first and most common problem why the plants did not sprout - deepening the seeds during sowing. The seeds are very small and do not need to be sprinkled with soil. They will sprout with surface sowing; it is permissible to press the seeds a little into well-moistened soil.

Poor quality soil

Poor quality soil is the main reason why petunia seedlings die. The quality of the soil is characterized by its mineral and organic composition. The development of seedlings is affected by the acidity of the soil; more often they die if the soil pH is acidic<5,5 или щелочная pH>7,5. Best options soil: neutral, slightly acidic (pH level from 5.5 to 7).

Important! The soil is suitable for petunia seedlings if the litmus paper turns red-violet.

You can prepare the soil with your own hands from peat, turf soil, sand, leaf soil. Stick to the ratio – 1:1:0.5:1.

Before sowing (2-3 hours), pour the prepared mixture with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Petunia dies less often if the soil has undergone pre-sowing treatment.

We sow correctly

Dense seedlings are one of the reasons why petunia seedlings fall. Flower growers come up with different ways sowing small seeds: mixed with sand, powdered with starch. Sowing in the snow can be considered the most convenient.

Cover the soil in the seedling box with snow, and spread the seeds over its surface using a toothpick. Black seeds are clearly visible on a white background; planting density can be adjusted.

Do not cover the seeds with soil. Cover the seedling box with glass (film). There should be an air gap between the soil and the shelter. The box should be taken to a warm place, where the air temperature does not fall below 20° C. The first miniature sprouts will appear in 10 days.

Petunia falls

Petunia has risen and falls if:

dries out top layer soil;
there is waterlogging of the soil;
hypothermia of seedlings;
there is no ventilation of seedlings;
Bright sunlight falls on the seedlings.

Moderately moisten the soil with a spray bottle, preventing it from drying out or becoming waterlogged.

Cover boxes with seedlings from direct sunlight. Do not remove the film until two true leaves are formed. Seedlings with two true leaves are planted in separate cups. Petunia rises and falls much less often if, after picking, it is provided normal conditions for growth:

Infected soil, black leg on seedlings

Soil that has not been treated with manganese or a fungicide may harbor fungal spores. Fungus is the main factor why petunia seedlings fall and die. The disease caused by fungal spores is known to all flower growers. This black leg is the enemy of all nightshades.

The fungus begins to multiply in the root collar area. The stalk gradually becomes thinner, breaks, and the petunia seedlings fall. The following factors provoke the growth of the fungus:

the soil is acidic;
increased soil moisture;
high air temperature.

In this situation, you need to identify all diseased plants and remove them along with the root and a small amount of soil. Do this quickly so that the infection does not spread to healthy seedlings.

Important! Good protection from fungus: light hilling of the stem, watering around the perimeter of the pot, in which the soil next to the stem always remains dry.

Measures to combat blackleg

We found out why petunia is falling, all subsequent measures to combat blackleg are aimed at destroying the fungus living in the soil:

Grown-up petunia falls and gets blackleg due to weak immunity. To strengthen it, water the seedlings with fertilizer at least once every 10 days: nitrophoska, Kemira or Mortar. According to flower growers, adult seedlings planted in peat cups are less likely to get sick.

Chlorosis is an insidious disease of seedlings

Chlorosis - the leaves on the top of the seedlings begin to turn yellow. yellow leaves- a signal that the plant does not have enough iron. Iron deficiency can occur in seedlings of any age.

There are two reasons: poor soil, weak root system that does not absorb required quantity gland. Petunias die if the necessary measures are not taken in time. Thanks to timely assistance, the color of the leaves will be restored and the development of the plant will continue.

Measures to combat chlorosis

The roots of the seedling do not work well, so they will help foliar feeding according to the sheet. The leaves quickly absorb iron. Fertilizers used for chlorosis:

If you don’t have these fertilizers on hand, you can use a weak aqueous solution of iron sulfate or a complex fertilizer containing iron. With early detection of chlorosis and timely treatment, petunia seedlings rarely die, usually after 2 - 3 weeks the seedlings are completely restored. Dealing with an advanced form of chlorosis is much more difficult.

Citric acid can also be used as a good folk remedy against chlorosis: add 1 g of citric acid crystals to 1 liter of settled water.

Petunia doesn't grow

A familiar situation - petunia has stopped growing and the seedlings are dying. In this case, there is no need to panic. We are looking for reasons. The problem is most likely in the small volume of soil if the seedlings are created optimal conditions by temperature, light, and soil (air) humidity. When the roots have nowhere to develop, the plant's growth stops. The solution to the problem is simple - transplant it into a larger pot. A florist who transplants seedlings on time rarely encounters such a problem.

Powdery mildew

Even a single case of seedling death requires attention. In the summer, you can be left without flowers if you don’t figure out in time why petunias are dying. U flower seedlings There are other dangerous diseases besides chlorosis and blackleg.

The photo shows plants with symptoms powdery mildew. A variety of factors can activate powdery mildew spores:

irregular watering of plants;
cool damp air;
excess nitrogen in the soil;
very dense planting of flowers.

No treatment sick plant rots and dies. Spraying the leaves and stems with Topaz solution helps. It is necessary that the solution covers the entire plant.

Conclusion

High-quality agricultural technology and high-quality soil will protect seedlings from any infection.

You can watch the video about methods of treating chlorosis, powdery mildew and their symptoms:

It can be a shame when expensive petunia seeds, which you have been looking for on sale for a long time (and finally found!), refuse to sprout. Or they sprout, but after a while they begin to get sick and die. The feelings that a failed gardener experiences in this situation are difficult to convey in words. Of course, everything has a reason, and the sudden onset of the pestilence also did not arise just like that. You have made a mistake in some way.

Situation No. 1. Petunia does not grow well

You have planted the seeds and are beginning to wait for the first harbingers of spring. You look in with hope landing capacity: what if? But the 5 days stated on the package pass, and then the same amount, and nothing happens.

Possible reasons:

“Dead” seeds (old or dead due to improper storage)

Deep plantings (petunia needs to be sown superficially; seeds germinate only in the light)

Using pelleted seeds (sometimes the granules are too hard and you need to break them or soak them manually)

Situation No. 2. The seeds sprouted, but did not shed their seed coat

This is bad and indicates that the sprout does not have the strength to drop the seed on its own.

The sprout does not have enough strength to shed the seed coat and straighten the cotyledons

There may be two reasons for this problem:

1. air, making the seed shell “impenetrable”

2. Old or improperly stored seeds, the sprouts of which are frail and difficult to adapt to independent life

In the second case, perhaps the sprouts are not worth saving. Even if you get rid of the “cap”, there is a high probability that they will soon die out from something else - the immunity of such plants is too weak and the survival rate is scanty.

But in the first case, it is very possible to fight for the life of the seedlings. First, try increasing the humidity. For example, cover the container with seedlings with film (if you have not done this before). Try to soak the shell - drop water from a pipette or syringe onto it, wait until it softens, and then carefully pry it with a needle and remove it. This must be done, otherwise, if the cotyledons do not unfold, the sprout will die.

Situation No. 3. The stem of the sprout becomes thinner at the base and breaks. Seedlings fall

Many novice gardeners have a question about why petunia seedlings are falling. Most likely, the seedlings suffered from a serious disease with an interesting name - “black leg”. It manifests itself like this: a dark area forms at the base of the stem, which softens and begins to rot. Very soon the sprout ceases to support its own weight, falls, and the stem breaks.

The stem of the sprout turns black and breaks - this is how the “black leg” manifests itself.

Blackleg is a fungal disease, that is, its causative agents are soil fungi. They live in any substrate, but behave entirely peacefully. However, in some situations they begin to become harmful and destroy green spaces. This usually happens at high air and soil humidity. Some gardeners like to create “greenhouses” for their seedlings, arranging extreme humidity there at 100% and at the same time forgetting to ventilate them. In such a climate, “black leg” is practically guaranteed! Greenhouses need to be ventilated every day, the covering material (film, glass) should be wiped clean from drops of condensed water. High humidity- the main reason why petunia seedlings fall. Thickened plantings and excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers also contribute to this disease.

If you notice signs of “black leg” on your seedlings, immediately get rid of the affected sprouts - there is nothing you can do to help them. Let's try to save what's left. To do this, it is very desirable to completely change the soil, but this is not always possible, and particles of soil and fungal microorganisms will still remain on the roots of the sprouts. Therefore, it is more realistic to simply disinfect the soil. A 40% formaldehyde solution is very effective in this regard. You can also use a strong solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide, for example, Maxim.

Situation No. 4. Petunia seedlings turn yellow

Yellowness on petunia seedlings not only looks unsightly, but is also a sign that not everything is in order with the plants. If the upper, young leaves turn yellow, and not evenly, but between the veins (the veins remain green), then this is chlorosis - a lack of iron. The seedlings stopped absorbing this microelement and began to turn yellow and weaken. Chlorosis occurs when the soil becomes alkalized, due to its poor quality or excessive watering.

Usually, the external application of iron in a form accessible to the plant - chelate - helps to correct the situation. Iron chelate is included in all drugs against chlorosis, for example, such as “Ferovit”, “Iron Chelate”, etc.

Chlorosis sometimes occurs due to pest damage, for example, during a spider mite infestation

If yellowness affects lower leaves, then it’s a matter of overflow or lack of nitrogen. Start feeding the seedlings well with nitrogen-containing complex fertilizers or adjust the watering.

Situation No. 5. Petunia seedlings stretching out

Petunia seedlings are stretched due to lack of light and heat (relative, of course, for seedlings and 25°C is already very warm). Therefore, it is not advisable to sow petunia in February if you do not have good lighting. Natural light is still very scarce, and the batteries are burning with might and main. The seedlings will stretch.

If this happens to your seedlings, do not despair. First, trim (pinch) the tops of the sprouts and bury the stems at the cotyledons, and then either provide enough light for the seedlings or reduce the temperature at which they are kept. Then appearance your little petunias will return to normal.

An elongated petunia needs to be pinched and the lighting improved, then it will begin to develop correctly and will soon fluff up

Situation No. 6. Petunia seedlings have stopped growing

Seedlings stop developing with a small volume of soil, when all the food that was initially there has already been “eaten.” Distill the sprouts into larger containers, and after 2 weeks begin to “feed” them intensively. If there is enough soil, but the seedlings still stop growing, then, in any case, they lack microelements. Often - boron. Many complex fertilizers contain this trace element, but you can use a simpler and effective way- spraying seedlings with a solution of boric acid (0.7 g per 1 liter of water). After targeted feeding, growth is usually restored within 7-10 days.

Ways to stimulate lagging shoots

It’s wonderful when planted petunia seeds sprout with vigorous sprouts after three days, then, after a month, they grow to a quite decent 5-6 cm, and after another month they bloom. Everything is fast and clear - everything is according to a plan pre-designated by the manufacturer. But in life there are often disappointments. Well-hatched seedlings suddenly slow down their growth or even stop developing. A week passes, then two, and the young petunia sprouts seem to have fallen asleep. What to do? How to speed up the growth of seedlings?

High-quality soil is the basis for rapid growth

If you notice that petunia seedlings are not growing well, first inspect the soil. If the “diagnosis” turns out to be disappointing, change the soil.

Ideal soil composition for petunia seedlings: high-quality peat; turf land; leavening agents; vermicompost.

To each according to his ability

Sometimes seedlings do not grow for a simpler reason. Then, when the roots have completely used up the volume of earthen mixture offered to them, they have filled the seedling container and have nowhere to grow further. In this case, picking is needed, that is, transplanting the sprouts into larger cups or pots. The roots, and with them the above-ground parts of the seedlings, will immediately resume their growth.

Proper nutrition - “developing” fertilizers

At two weeks of age, petunia seedlings already need feeding. If your seedlings are already mature and have been growing for a long time in the same soil, in which there are no more nutrients left, it is not surprising if the sprouts begin to “slow down”. Petunia does not grow well without regular feeding.

Buy liquid or dry fertilizer with a high nitrogen (N) content - this is what is needed most at seedling stage for the formation of the above-ground part of the plant. Don't forget about the roots! To develop them, fertilizer manufacturers add phosphorus (P) to their products. Potassium (K) is responsible for budding, flowering and fruiting, so this microelement can be present in small quantities in fertilizers for feeding seedlings.

Petunia seedlings are watered with fertilizer, the concentration of which is 2 times less than indicated on the label (the instructions indicate the ratio of fertilizer and water for adult plants)

It is very desirable that the fertilizer for your petunia seedlings, in addition to the NPK formula, also include other important microelements: iron, boron, magnesium, zinc, etc. But only in chelated form (sometimes in salt form - not very successful)! Chelates are 2-10 times better absorbed than microelements in inorganic salts. Therefore, when using fertilizers with chelates, you can be sure that the microelements have reached their destination. Microelements begin to act very quickly and you will see the result!

Petunia seedlings are not growing - let's start stimulation

Let’s say you’ve already changed the soil, applied the right fertilizer, and generally fussed with the seedlings like a sack, but the petunia still doesn’t grow well. Then we will apply plan “B” and use the “secret weapon” to stimulate growth - B vitamins. More precisely: B1, B6 and B12.

Dissolve 1 ampoule of vitamin B1 and B12 in a glass warm water(250 ml). The stimulating composition is ready! If the sprouts are still very small, take the solution into a syringe or pipette and carefully apply 1-2 drops to the seedlings. For adult seedlings, you can use the method of spraying the solution from a spray bottle. Do this procedure once every 7-10 days, alternating vitamins B1 and B12, and watch for increased sprout growth.

You can make another, more “killer” solution. Dissolve 1 ampoule of vitamins B1, B6 and B12 in 1 liter of water. Spray the seedlings with this cocktail once every 10 days.

After spraying with B vitamins, even the most stunted sprouts immediately begin to grow. A huge number of new growth points are formed, root formation is stimulated, and resistance to diseases and pests increases. At the same time, the seedlings grow squat, powerful and bushy.

Tomato seedlings do not grow - take action

When growing such a wonderful crop as tomatoes, gardeners face a number of difficulties; the most common problem is that tomato seedlings do not grow.

Tomato seedlings require compliance with certain conditions, for example, compliance with a special temperature regime. Immediately after the appearance of the first shoots, the boxes with seedlings are put into a cool place for a week; during the day the temperature should be 16-18 degrees C, at night – 13-15 degrees C.

Then the temperature can be increased to 20 degrees C during the day and 16 degrees C at night. The specified temperature regime is observed until the third true leaf appears on the tomato (approximately 30-35 days). During this time, the seedlings are watered 3 times at the root, the third time watering is carried out on the day of the picking, an hour before it starts. The recommended water temperature for irrigation should be 20 degrees Celsius.

After the appearance of two true leaves, the seedlings must be sprayed daily (in the morning) with low-fat milk (1 glass per liter of water), this procedure is the prevention of viral diseases.

On the 12th day after picking, the seedlings are fed with nitrophoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Watering is carried out sparingly as the soil dries.

If, under the specified conditions, the tomato seedlings do not grow or grow slowly, then the tomatoes can be fed with a growth stimulant, for example, sodium humate. The solution is diluted to a consistency reminiscent of tea in color and the tomatoes are fed 1 cup per plant.

Two weeks before planting, tomatoes must begin to be hardened by placing them on a balcony or under an open window. First for 2-3 hours then for the whole day. The hardening temperature should not fall below 8-10 degrees C.

Petunia seedlings grow poorly:

To each according to his ability

Proper nutrition - “developing” fertilizers

Petunia seedlings are watered with fertilizer, the concentration of which is 2 times less than indicated on the label (the instructions indicate the ratio of fertilizer and water for adult plants)

Petunia seedlings are not growing – let’s start stimulation

Dissolve 1 ampoule of vitamin B1 and B12 in a glass of warm water (250 ml). The stimulating composition is ready! If the sprouts are still very small, take the solution into a syringe or pipette and carefully apply 1-2 drops to the seedlings. For adult seedlings, you can use the method of spraying the solution from a spray bottle. Do this procedure once every 7-10 days, alternating vitamins B1 and B12, and watch for increased sprout growth.

Vitamins for petunia seedlings can be bought at the pharmacy.

You can make another, more “killer” solution. Dissolve 1 ampoule of vitamins B1, B6 and B12 in 1 liter of water. Spray the seedlings with this cocktail once every 10 days.

What to do if seedlings in peat pots do not grow?

Peat pots are hollow conical cups. These are dry molded and pressed peat products, they are transportable and have long term storage

Compared to improvised means (plastic, paper or ceramic containers), peat pots– a biologically friendly house for plants. The pots do not contain pathogenic microflora and weed seeds, and the content of toxic chemicals: heavy metals, pesticide residues and benzopyrenes is below the maximum permissible concentrations (MAC) established for soil intended for the cultivation of agricultural crops. Peat is light, clean and safe to use, does not contain weed seeds and pathogens of various diseases of vegetable and flower crops.

Wall thickness good pots 1-1.5 mm, which guarantees the unhindered development of the plant root system along with maintaining the strength of the pot and the ability to quickly decompose in the ground (within 32 days after planting), thereby relieving farmers of the hassle of collecting parts of undecomposed pots when harvesting fields.

100% seed germination;
balanced nutrition of young plants with organic and mineral elements;
growth, healthy development and rapid rooting of plants;
optimal moisture and air capacity of the container for plants;
protection of plants from bacterial diseases;
high survival rate of seedlings due to a fully formed root system;
protection of the root system from damage and drying out during transplantation or transportation;
accelerated plant development due to the absence of the risk of injury to the root system.

But is everything really so rosy?! Based on my own experience, as well as on the basis of a huge number of reviews read on the Internet, I can say that it is rare that anyone manages to achieve the above excellent results. There are several reasons:

Pots passed off as peat pots are often made from ordinary pressed cardboard. Cardboard does not decompose as quickly as peat, and this leads to the fact that in the fall, when cultivating the soil, the gardener sees an undecomposed pot with a tangle of roots. The roots of many plants are too delicate and cannot penetrate the walls that are overly compacted by stamping.

Peat containers for seedlings dry out quickly. Therefore, it is difficult to control watering of plants. If you don’t add enough, the plant may dry out. If you overwater it, mold appears on the pot and growing substrate, which has a very adverse effect on the seedlings.

A decrease in soil temperature, which occurs due to the abundant evaporation of water from the walls of the pot, is also harmful to delicate roots. In general, there are pros, there are cons, and the truth is somewhere in the middle. To maintain the benefits and reduce the harm of unfavorable factors, you can do the following:

To make it easier for the delicate roots of the plant to pass through the walls of the cup, you can hole it in several places in advance (this can be done with a regular hole punch).
Wrap each cup in plastic (food grade film is fine).
After purchasing, new cups must be soaked in a solution of humate fertilizer with microelements. This will feed the plants and speed up the decomposition of the cup.

If you decide that your seedlings will be better off in other containers, and don’t know where to put the already purchased pots, then feel free to plant seedlings of plants with a strong root system in them. For example, pumpkin. Its strong roots can easily break through the walls of a glass and such seedlings can be planted directly in a glass. permanent place residence!

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Petunia seedlings are growing poorly: we stimulate it. It’s wonderful when planted petunia seeds sprout with vigorous sprouts after three days, then, after a month, they grow to a quite decent 5-6 cm, and after another month they bloom. Everything is fast and clear - everything is according to a plan pre-designated by the manufacturer. But in life there are often disappointments. Well-hatched seedlings suddenly slow down their growth or even stop developing. A week passes, then two, and the young petunia sprouts seem to have fallen asleep. What to do? How to speed up the growth of seedlings? Petunia seeds http://vse-rastet.ru/catalog/61/-- First - “developing” fertilizers At two weeks of age, petunia seedlings already need feeding. If your seedlings are already mature and have been growing for a long time in the same soil, in which there are no more nutrients left, it is not surprising if the sprouts begin to “slow down”. Petunia does not grow well without regular feeding. Buy liquid or dry fertilizer with a high nitrogen (N) content - this is what is needed most at seedling stage for the formation of the above-ground part of the plant. Don't forget about the roots! To develop them, fertilizer manufacturers add phosphorus (P) to their products. Potassium (K) is responsible for budding, flowering and fruiting, so this microelement can be present in small quantities in fertilizers for feeding seedlings. It is very desirable that the fertilizer for your petunia seedlings, in addition to the NPK formula, also include other important microelements: iron, boron, magnesium, zinc, etc. But only in chelated form (sometimes in salt form - not very successful)! Chelates are 2-10 times better absorbed than microelements in inorganic salts. Therefore, when using fertilizers with chelates, you can be sure that the microelements have reached their destination. Microelements begin to act very quickly and you will see the result! -- Petunia seedlings are not growing - let's start stimulation Let's say you've already changed the soil, applied the right fertilizer, and generally fussed with the seedlings like a dirty bag, but the petunia still doesn't grow well. Then we will apply plan “B” and use the “secret weapon” to stimulate growth - B vitamins. More precisely: B1, B6 and B12. Dissolve 1 ampoule of vitamin B1 and B12 in a glass of warm water (250 ml). The stimulating composition is ready! If the sprouts are still very small, take the solution into a syringe or pipette and carefully apply 1-2 drops to the seedlings. For adult seedlings, you can use the method of spraying the solution from a spray bottle. Do this procedure once every 7-10 days, alternating vitamins B1 and B12, and watch for increased sprout growth. You can make another, more “killer” solution. Dissolve 1 ampoule of vitamins B1, B6 and B12 in 1 liter of water. Spray the seedlings with this cocktail once every 10 days. After spraying with B vitamins, even the most stunted sprouts immediately begin to grow. A huge number of new growth points are formed, root formation is stimulated, and resistance to diseases and pests increases. At the same time, the seedlings grow squat, powerful and bushy. Petunia seeds http://vse-rastet.ru/catalog/125/ Fertilizers and growth stimulants