Owners of plots with a large difference in height know firsthand how difficult it can be to organize a garden or vegetable garden on a slope. The best solution to the problem is retaining walls, and today we will look at a lot of interesting ideas, what they can be built from and how to transform the site.
If the entire plot or part of it is located on the slope of a hill or ravine, then it is difficult to use the land with maximum efficiency for growing vegetables or herbs - any cultivation of the land leads to a gradual sliding of the soil, only exacerbating the problem. The solution in this case is very simple - retaining walls distributed along the entire site. It is enough to divide the area into segments and build low walls, so that in each one you can level the soil in a horizontal plane without fear of it sliding or washing away. The entire plot will turn into a huge staircase, on each step of which you can organize neat beds or plant shrubs and trees.
There are many options for exactly how to build a retaining wall. Not only their practicality and durability, but also their appearance, which should never be forgotten, depends on the materials and design used. It is quite logical to perceive retaining walls as the main component of landscape design. This is an excellent way not only to cope with the problem of soil erosion, but also to very effectively zone the site, allocating space for both a garden bed and a recreation area.
The method of execution of the retaining wall will certainly affect how the entire site will look, so the choice of materials and design should be approached with the same responsibility as the appearance of the facade of the house. It will be much easier to choose the right option for yourself if you first familiarize yourself with a large number of ready-made solutions, evaluate their attractiveness and practicality, and also compare them with your ideas and general idea of what the site should ultimately look like.
Gabion
Spectacular and massive retaining walls, gabions are three-dimensional structures consisting of steel mesh and stones. The mesh forms the outer frame of the gabion. Filling with large stones or pebbles gives the structure massiveness and reliability.
Retaining walls made of wooden sleepers
Wooden railway sleepers are processed and impregnated with a number of substances that can protect the wood from rotting and even exposure to open flames. This is an extremely durable material that is excellent for constructing retaining walls on a sloping area.
Stone retaining walls
Steel retaining walls
Retaining walls made of corrugated sheets
Profiled steel sheet can withstand heavy loads, including significant soil pressure. Retaining walls made of corrugated sheets are no less reliable than stone or wooden ones, but they are much easier to install.
To improve the landscape design and operation of a site with differences in elevation, a concrete retaining wall (RC) of several types is used. The structure is necessary for terracing, zoning a farmstead, eliminating erosion and strengthening slopes. Retaining walls can protect columnar grillages, slab and strip foundations from the effects of lateral movements of heaving soils.
When making calculations, you must follow the instructions in the 1985 Reference Manual for SNiP 2.09.03, which in 2010 was updated into the set of rules SP 43.13330 (external structures and networks).
An uneven landscape is inconvenient to use, so most developers strive to level the soil throughout the entire site or create several zones with horizontal surfaces, between which you can move along steps or stairs.
The main problem is soil pressure on vertical walls, leading to negative consequences:
- loss of stability - overturning of the structure;
- loss of strength - destruction of individual elements and collapse of the slope.
Problems of operation of retaining walls.
Therefore, there are two fundamentally different technologies aimed at compensating for this pressure:
- massive walls - have a lot of weight, lateral movements of the soil cannot move the structure from its place;
Massive retaining wall.
- thin-walled structures - the wall has elements that involve part of the soil in creating forces directed in the direction opposite to overturning.
In the first case, the consumption of concrete and reinforcement increases, in the second the volume of excavation work increases. The choice of technology for an individual developer depends on the available construction budget, free time, and the purpose of the retaining walls.
For example, with a limited budget, it is more advisable to install corner structures with a console. If the retaining wall is used for terracing, on the upper edges of massive monolithic multi-level walls you can lay out flower beds, make beds or use them in landscape design.
Decorative walls
Before making a concrete retaining wall with a height of 30–70 cm, you need to take into account the following nuances:
- for low structures, the best option is a massive wall (trapezoid or parallelepiped with a wide base);
- they have significant weight, so heaving forces are not able to move them;
- with a structure height of up to 0.3 m, a foundation is not needed, but the fertile layer must be replaced with non-metallic material with your own hands to a depth of 0.4 m;
- if the planned height of the terrace is 0.4 - 0.8 m, the lower part of the wall, which is the foundation, is deepened by 0.15 - 0.3 m.
Their manufacturing technologies are discussed below; this section provides only design rules. In low substations, drainage is not necessary on dry soils; in case of high groundwater level, perforated and geotextile-wrapped corrugated pipes are laid on the inside with a slope towards the underground reservoir for collecting wastewater.
Middle walls
Typically, suburban areas in cottage villages have height differences of within 1 m, but for garden plots, the administration of settlements often allocates land unsuitable for agriculture, replete with mountains and ravines. Therefore, PSs with an average height of 0.8 - 1.5 m are used, which also cannot be counted on to shear and destruction.
The scheme for selecting a substation design that satisfies operational requirements is as follows:
- at a height of within 1 m on loose soils, massive structures with a widened heel can be used;
- if the height difference is greater than the specified value, a thin-walled substation of any type will cost less.
If in industrial and agricultural construction reinforced concrete panels and slabs are more often used for these purposes, then for an individual developer they are unnecessarily expensive, taking into account delivery, unloading and installation with special equipment. Therefore, it is easier to fill them locally using the technology below.
Drainage for substations of medium height is mandatory; instead of longitudinal drains, transverse drains are usually used:
- polymer pipes are laid just above the base of the foundation, passing through both vertical (inclined) formwork panels;
- step of transverse drains within 1 m;
- Stormwater gutters are placed at the junction of the substation and the lower terrace to collect and drain these runoff, which will inevitably destroy the soil and reduce the quality of operation of the site.
Perforation inside the drains is not necessary; sewer (only red) polyethylene pipes of suitable diameter can be used.
High walls
Complex terrain may require high (1.5 - 2 m) retaining walls, which require calculation using two limit states. General design principles are:
- the use of thin-walled structures, since massive PSs are not economically feasible here
- elements involving the soil of the upper tier to create forces directed against overturning (cantilever, anchor or buttress) are selected depending on the preferences of the developer.
High retaining wall with buttresses.
The volume of excavation work is approximately the same, but additional concreting will be required for buttresses and consoles.
Massive retaining wall
Below are drawings of massive walls for terracing the site. The general rules for constructing these structures with your own hands are:
- the formwork is buried 1/3 of the height of the substation structure with a total height of 0.4 - 1.5 m;
- if the wall has a height of 1.6 - 2 m, the minimum depth is 0.7 m;
- the minimum thickness (for trapezoidal ones in the upper part) of the PS is 10 cm;
- when terracing sandy soils and sandy loams, the width of the base is 0.5 of the height of the structure, for loam 1/3 of this size is enough, for clay ¼;
Dimensions of the retaining wall depending on the type of soil.
Despite the fact that straight contours are preferable for landscape design, a properly designed do-it-yourself terrace wall should have stiffeners, corners and broken lines that provide greater strength to a monolithic reinforced concrete structure.
With heel widening
The technology allows you to reduce the construction budget due to less concrete consumption. Walls for terracing the area are being constructed according to the following scheme:
- marking and excavation - in accordance with the project, cords/strings are pulled over the cast-offs, trenches are made with a width equal to the size of the widening of the sole of the PS;
- underlying layer and formwork arrangement - the lower 0.4 m of heaving soil is replaced with crushed stone or sand, compacted, roofing material is spread on non-metallic material and formwork panels are installed for widening with a height of 0.3 m, pieces of timber are laid perpendicularly on them, on which panel formwork is installed for wall body, fixed on both sides with jibs and ties;
- drainage - the panels are drilled through, plastic tubes are passed through them at intervals of 1 m at a height of 0.2 m from the lower terrace;
- reinforcement and pouring - a frame with two belts of longitudinal rods tied with clamps or vertical and horizontal jumpers is installed inside the formwork with your own hands, the concrete is laid in layers (0.4 m), compacted with an in-depth vibrator.
Concrete grade from M150; if necessary, penetrating additives can be used. The PS design has a slab part that resists heaving forces, preventing the wall from being pulled to the surface.
Trapezoidal
The manufacturing technology looks like:
- marking - cords are pulled along the cast-offs, taking into account changes in the horizontal level in the lower section and the upper tier adjacent to it;
- trench separation - the soil is removed 0.4 m below the design level, the width of the excavation is equal to the size of the widening of the base, taking into account the type of soil (for example, if the wall has a height of 0.7 m at the top, on loam it will be 0.23 m);
- underlying layer - sand on dry soil or crushed stone with a high groundwater level 0.4 m thick (layer-by-layer compaction with a vibrating plate or hand tools);
- formwork arrangement - the front panel is installed vertically (towards the slope), fixed with supports, the rear panel is tilted towards it with the top side, secured with pins or spacers made of timber;
- reinforcement - a frame made of longitudinal rods (corrugated with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm), tied with clamps every 0.6 - 0.8 m;
- concreting - the mixture is laid in layers of 0.4 m, compacted with a vibrator.
A curved wall path is preferable to straight lines.
Caring for concrete is classic - the upper surface is covered with sawdust, moistened from a watering can in the first two days. Penetrating additives introduced into the mixture during production make it possible to obtain absolutely waterproof concrete. However, its cost increases several times, so it is easier to use the technology:
- waterproofing of rear and side edges;
- facing the front surface with paint, stone, flexible tiles and other materials.
Backfilling is possible after concrete has gained strength; stripping for waterproofing takes 7–28 days, depending on temperature and air humidity. Drainage is similar to the previous case.
Thin-walled design
When installing a conventional slab on an edge for terracing a site, it will inevitably be toppled by horizontal movements of the soil, even with some depth. Therefore, a universal scheme is used for retaining walls:
- the vertical plate is rigidly connected to the horizontal one;
- moreover, the latter is crushed by the weight of the earth of the upper terrace;
- therefore, horizontal heaving forces are compensated by the soil itself.
The structure is most vulnerable at the junction of the plates, so it is mandatory to reinforce it. Heaving forces are reduced by backfilling with non-metallic material and drainage of soil water through transverse drains.
Reinforcement of corner retaining structure.
To increase the spatial rigidity of the load-bearing frame, the upper part of the vertical slab is connected to the edge of the horizontal console farthest from it with a buttress or a cable attached with the free end to the anchor.
Cantilever corner wall
To build a cantilever-angle substation with your own hands, you must perform the following operations:
- dig a trench 0.4 - 0.6 m deep, the width of which is equal to the length of the horizontal console (usually equal to the height of the vertical slab);
- pour 0.2 - 0.4 m of crushed stone or sand and compact non-metallic material;
- install formwork for the console from 4 vertical boards 10 - 15 cm wide;
- lay two reinforcing mesh with a step of 0.4 - 0.6 m and provide a protective concrete layer;
- release the rods upward to connect with the vertical wall at a distance of 0.4 m from the edge facing the lower terrace;
- pour a horizontal slab, ensure concrete care;
- correctly install the formwork for the retaining wall in a vertical position;
- lay the reinforcement frame inside it and tie it to the rods protruding from the console;
- concrete the wall and waterproof all accessible surfaces of the structure.
At the stage of installation of the upper formwork, a drainage system should be installed from polymer or asbestos-cement pipes. Due to the high consumption of concrete, the technology is recommended exclusively for high PS. Instead of a slab console, on heavy soils (clay and loam), the use of beams in increments of 0.5 m is allowed.
Anchor wall
To reduce the construction budget, anchor substations can be used, constructed using the following technology:
- the vertical slab is poured into the formwork in place;
- hinges are installed in its upper part;
- an anchor is installed into the soil of the upper terrace beyond the slope shedding prism (screw pile, pipe driven into the soil, or an inclined strand);
- The anchors are connected with a cable or wire to the loops of the anchor wall.
Anchor retaining wall.
Important! A vertical monolithic slab must be buried by 1/2 - 1/4 depending on its height. The anchor pitch is 0.6 - 1 m depending on ground conditions. Transverse drainage is required for this design.
Buttress wall
The last option for a monolithic reinforced concrete substation is the technology of strengthening the structure with a buttress. The advantages of the method are:
- the buttress serves as a stiffening rib;
- stabilizes the spatial position of the structure;
- shifts the center of gravity of the wall towards the upper terrace;
- increases the own weight of the PS and prevents lateral displacement.
The technique is similar to the previous one, only instead of embedded loops, reinforcement bars are released from the wall. Triangular profile buttresses are poured into their own formwork at the next stage.
Thus, a retaining wall can be made for terraces of varying heights in several ways. First, you need to calculate the costs for each option and choose the most budget-friendly one.
Clean air, green spaces, lack of city noise are the reasons why the construction of suburban housing has recently become increasingly popular. However, not everyone gets flat plots for individual development. What should those owners do who have received plots in areas with fairly large differences in elevation? In this case, a concrete retaining wall will help, the construction technology of which has been worked out for decades. Such structures are also widely used in urban development, as cities are growing and there are not enough flat areas for the construction of new buildings.
Purpose of retaining walls
According to their purpose, retaining walls are divided into two main classes:
- Decorative. The main purpose of such buildings is to give the landscape of a site with a slight slope a more attractive aesthetic appearance.
- Fortifying. Such walls can withstand significant soil pressure and are designed to prevent soil from sliding down the slope and washing away the fertile layer from the surface of the site.
Types of concrete retaining walls
Strengthening retaining walls made of monolithic reinforced concrete are divided into three types:
- massive;
- combined;
- thin-walled.
The first category of supporting walls retains soil pressure only due to their large mass (strength also depends on the depth of the depth). Due to the fact that the production of such walls requires a large amount of building material, during individual construction they can be recommended for the construction of low retaining structures (height above ground level 0.5÷0.7 m) in areas with a slight angle of inclination. Then the recommended depth (⅓ of the height) will be 0.17÷0.24 m, and the thickness (¼÷½ of the height) will be 0.25÷0.35 m.
Combined products have less weight than massive ones. To increase their stability, use a foundation of wider dimensions than the base of the wall itself (soil pressing on the protruding elements of the foundation partially reduces the load and thereby increases stability).
Thin-walled concrete retaining walls are made in L- or T-shape. Since the width of the “sole” of such products is commensurate with their height, the vertical soil pressure on the support significantly reduces horizontal loads and increases the wall’s resistance to overturning.
Such products can be purchased in the form of ready-made sections made in a factory.
Homemade concrete retaining wall
If the slope of the surface of your site is not too large, then making a concrete retaining wall with your own hands will not be difficult. For example: you need to build a retaining wall 1.2 m high (above ground level). In order to save building material (rebar and concrete mortar), we recommend choosing a thin-walled corner retaining wall with a T-shaped base. How to make a concrete retaining wall (three main steps):
Preparatory stage
First we prepare a sketch, drawing and reinforcement diagram.
Then we begin land work. We make markings using pegs and construction cord. We dig a trench of the required width (slightly larger than the width of the support, taking into account the formwork) and depth (taking into account the thickness of the support and the cushion of sand and crushed stone). We store the earth from the trench in a free area (later it will be needed for backfilling on both sides of the wall). We pour sand into the bottom of the trench (the thickness of the layer is about 0.2 m) and tamp it down (wetting it periodically with water). Then we fill in the same layer of crushed stone and also compact it (with a vibrating plate or a hand tamper). We lay geofabric on top of the equipped pillow.
Formwork and grouting
Now let's start creating the reinforcing frame. The reinforcing bars of the “sole” and “body” of the wall must be connected to each other.
We are building formwork. First we do it only for the foundation of the wall. After this, we pour concrete mortar along the entire length of the foundation and compact it using a vibrator. After the mortar has set, we proceed to installing the formwork of the supporting wall itself. The manufacturing technology of formwork and the materials used for its manufacture are similar to the arrangement of a strip foundation.
Important! In the process of arranging the formwork, it is necessary to lay transverse plastic or asbestos-cement pipes into it to drain groundwater and precipitation penetrating into the soil (the lower edge of the pipes should be slightly above the ground level on the outside of the supporting wall). This will significantly reduce the load on the inside of the vertical slab. Distance between transverse drainage pipes – 1.0÷1.5 m.
Then we begin pouring the concrete retaining wall.
Attention! To prevent the formwork from collapsing or deforming during pouring, it is better to carry out this process in stages. First, pour the solution onto⅓ of the height along the entire length of the wall. Then we vibrate the poured solution. Next, fill the formwork with the solution another third, and so on.
To ensure maximum strength and uniformity, it is advisable to fill the entire structure in one day. After the solution is poured to the upper edge of the wall and completely compacted, the surface is leveled and covered with plastic wrap and left for final drying. To prevent rapid evaporation of water from the solution (which can negatively affect strength), in hot weather the surface of the solution is periodically wetted.
Waterproofing and arrangement of drainage system
After 7–9 days, we begin dismantling the formwork. To ensure durability, concrete wall surfaces are covered with a waterproofing material (for example, a special composition based on liquid rubber).
- Along the entire length of the wall from the inside (that is, from the side of the slope), we lay a perforated pipe (necessarily wrapped in water-permeable geofabric).
- Then we fill this pipe with crushed stone.
- We lay geotextiles on top of the crushed stone (to preserve the free space not filled with soil between the individual particles of crushed stone).
- We take the free end of the pipe (on one or both sides of the wall) into a drainage ditch (or well) or the nearest drainage basin.
At the final stage, fill the free space around the wall with soil.
Important! We begin backfilling the soil only after the concrete retaining wall has gained its final strength and can withstand significant loads from the slope, that is, no earlier than in a month.
Retaining wall made of concrete blocks
Blocks of lightweight porous concrete are successfully used to construct decorative retaining walls. Reinforcing retaining walls made of concrete blocks are made of FBS (solid foundation blocks), with a width of at least 400 mm (by the way, this value will be the thickness of the wall). They are made in a factory. The high strength and density (2000÷2300 kg/m³) of the material determine their widespread use in the construction of massive retaining walls.
Algorithm for constructing a retaining wall made of concrete blocks:
- We carry out marking, excavation work and arrangement of a cushion of sand and crushed stone (all work is similar to the construction of a reinforced concrete wall).
- After this, we proceed to laying the blocks, which we fasten together with sand-cement mortar.
- We lay the rows of blocks “staggered” (that is, we arrange each subsequent row with a shift of half a block in relation to the previous one).
- To increase the load-bearing capacity and strength of the wall, we place reinforcing elements (metal mesh or reinforcement bars) in horizontal mortar joints.
Attention! Weight of a standard block with dimensions 800x 400 x580 mm is 470 kg, so to build a retaining wall from such products you will need to use lifting equipment.
In custody
The choice of retaining wall design depends on its purpose (decorative or fortifying) and the characteristics of a particular site: height difference, soil characteristics, groundwater level, and so on. A properly designed and equipped retaining wall will last for decades without repair.
It is very convenient to design a site when it is perfectly level. But what to do when you have to deal with a slope and uneven terrain? Don’t be upset, because this feature can be turned into a tourist attraction by decorating the vertical slope of the slope in an original way with suitable materials. A retaining wall will become the highlight of your garden. Here you will have many opportunities to use your imagination and create something beautiful. Such a wall has not only decorative value. It also holds the soil, preventing it from collapsing. In this article you will learn how to make a retaining wall with your own hands.
The supporting wall at the dacha can be built from wood, concrete, stone, brick or blocks. The selection of materials for the construction of this structure depends on several factors:
- style of your garden;
- relief of the site;
- height of the future wall;
- availability of available materials;
- your preferences and the cost of materials for the construction of the structure.
If there is too much height difference on your site (more than 1.5 m), it is better to form several steps-ledges on it. Then the retaining walls will not be too high, which will look much nicer, and the likelihood of soil collapse will be significantly lower. But if the retaining wall is planned to be higher than 1.5 m, you should invite a specialist. After all, it must be designed for heavy loads and withstand soil pressure.
Broken and rounded wall configurations can withstand greater loads than straight ones, but their construction will also take you longer.
Natural stone looks very aesthetically pleasing. The following types of stone are often used:
- basalt;
- granite;
- dolomite;
- sandstone;
- cobblestone;
- quartzite and others.
The retaining wall structure consists of a foundation, vertical wall and drainage. The foundation should be 3 times wider than the wall, and its thickness should be one third of the height of the structure. First, you should dig a trench, adding another 20–30 cm to its depth for a gravel-sand cushion.
Once you have compacted the gravel (or crushed stone) and sand, you can fill the trench with concrete. But at the same time, make sure that the height of the foundation is 10–15 cm below ground level.
At this stage you need to take care of the drainage system. You can install perforated drainage pipes at the base of the wall and lead them out through the wall. Or you can simplify the task - during the laying process, simply leave several small vertical cracks between the stones through which water will flow.
When the foundation has already hardened, you should start laying out the stones. To fasten them we use cement mortar. The largest stones, naturally, should be located at the base.
It is advisable that the wall have a slight slope of 5–10º, then it will be stronger. Also, when laying dry, it is important to deepen several stones with the long side into the ground. This will bind and strengthen the structure. Also make sure that there are no cross-shaped or long vertical cracks, otherwise the structure will not be so strong.
The cracks can be filled with soil with seeds of unpretentious plants. If you want the wall to take on the look of a hundred years ago, you can cover it with kefir - then it will quickly become overgrown with moss. A stone structure can also serve as a base for a bench.
First you need to calculate the dimensions of the future structure. Depending on the type of soil and the size of the structure, the wall thickness should be approximately 25–50 cm. At 1/3 of its height, for reliable stability, the wall should be recessed into the ground. Therefore, you should dig a trench, the depth of which depends on the planned height of the wall. We fill the bottom with sand, then gravel or crushed stone and compact it thoroughly.
We erect the formwork and strengthen it with supports. It is desirable that the wall be slightly wider at the base than at the top. This will give it stability.
We adjust the boards tightly to each other and install risers. If the wall is very high (more than 1 m) and the soil is too loose, reinforcement should be installed into the structure, tied at the intersections with metal wire. Then we pour concrete into the formwork.
On the side of the slope, the structure should be waterproofed using roll or coating waterproofing agents. Otherwise, moisture accumulating behind the wall can gradually destroy its base. Also, to solve this problem, drainage pipes are installed behind the wall. When the concrete structure has stood for several days and gained strength, the space between the wall and the slope is filled with crushed stone, gravel or pebbles, layer by layer of rammer. The top layer should consist of fertile soil.
The main disadvantage of a concrete wall is its appearance. She doesn't look very presentable. This can be corrected using facing materials. For this purpose, natural or artificial stone is often used, as well as ceramic tiles intended for outdoor use.
The adhesive composition for fixing the cladding must be of high quality, namely moisture-resistant and resistant to temperature changes.
If for some reason you do not plan to use facing materials, then the requirements for the evenness of the concrete wall will increase. All filling flaws should be very carefully corrected using plaster mortar. To make the wall smooth, roofing felt or other similar material can be attached to the inside of the formwork before pouring concrete. After all work is completed, the concrete wall can be decorated with hanging plants.
To make the task easier, sometimes they decide to replace a monolithic concrete wall with a structure made of concrete blocks.
To build a brick retaining wall, solid, durable bricks are used. If the wall is higher than 0.25 m, laying a foundation is a mandatory task. Its parameters are calculated similarly to masonry. For a brick wall with a height of less than 0.6 m (its thickness can be 12 cm, that is, half a brick), and for a wall with a height of 1 m, the recommended thickness is 25 cm. To fasten the bricks, use high-quality cement mortar.
As with all options for supporting walls, one should not forget about the drainage system.
Gabions are containers made of galvanized metal mesh that are filled with stones. They are used not only as a reinforcing structure. It also serves as a wonderful element of landscape design. The advantage of this type of retaining wall is that it is absolutely not necessary to install a drainage system.
To build a gabion wall you will need:
- galvanized metal mesh;
- wire staples;
- metal spiral for connecting walls;
- braces (wire ropes);
- steel pins with pointed ends;
- filler (natural stone, coarse gravel or other materials);
- geotextile (optional).
Gabion panels are connected with a metal spiral or wire staples.
On the front side, gabions are filled with the most beautiful and largest stones. The inside is filled with fine gravel, crushed stone or other cheap material. To prevent it from getting into the cracks between large stones, you can lay geofabric in the middle. When the gabion is already half full, so that it does not bulge, you should fasten the walls with braces every 4-5 cells of the metal mesh. Next, fill the gabions with stone to the top, close the lid and tighten with a spiral.
The containers are also connected to each other with wire, which must be galvanized and of high quality, otherwise the structure may collapse. Gabions are firmly attached to the ground using steel pins with sharp ends.
Wood is a material that is easy to process, but is known to be short-lived. However, a support wall made from logs looks very attractive and gives many opportunities to improvise when constructing it.
The first step is to dig a trench, the depth of which depends on the height of the wall. It is desirable that it be half the outer height of the supporting wall. We fill the bottom with 10–15 cm of sand and the same layer of crushed stone or gravel.
Logs should be treated with coating waterproofing agents. The part that will be immersed in the ground can be covered with bitumen or burned. And the outer part needs to be impregnated with more expensive products that not only protect against moisture and fungi, but also give the wood a more attractive appearance.
Then we place the logs inside the trench and, for stability, fill them with gravel and fasten them with nails or wire. After this, the trench can be filled with concrete 10 cm below ground level.
On the side of the slope, the wall must be additionally waterproofed with roofing felt or thick film. Install drainage pipes. And the space between the wall and the slope must be filled with crushed stone or other small stone for drainage. And remember that wood most of all needs protection from moisture.
There are many variations of wood support walls. Logs can be placed horizontally. It can also be made from beams.
If the soil is too loose, there are steep slopes on the site and there is a danger of soil collapse, you should not ignore this problem. The slope should be strengthened with plants with a strong root system. So, you will get living reinforcement. If the situation is more complex, geosynthetics such as geogrid, geogrid, geotextile or biomat should be used. After the main work and fixing the reinforcing material on the slope, you need to fill it with fertile soil on top and plant suitable plants.
If you have already built a retaining wall on your landscape plot, then share your personal experience in this matter, and especially what material you decided to choose. You can do this by leaving a comment at the end of this article.
Video
From these videos you will learn the details of making a retaining wall:
Photo
In the photo, you can find many useful ideas for making a retaining wall:
Scheme
Below are several retaining wall designs:
Unfortunately, the surface of a real plot of land is often far from ideal and confuses the eye with its unevenness. In such situations, a wonderful solution comes to the rescue in the form of a concrete retaining wall, which allows you to create a terrace, strengthen the slopes and zone your yard.
Design, features of a concrete retaining wall
The retaining wall in its structure has the following components:
- Foundation– a wall segment that bears the main load;
- Body– the wall itself;
- Drainage– a drain that prevents the destruction of the wall.
Considering the main problems in the construction of retaining walls, namely loss of stability due to soil pressure and its destruction, several types of structures and their devices should be distinguished, namely:
- Thick walls - massive structures with a lot of weight;
- Thin walls - includes elements that use the adjacent soil to stabilize and prevent it from tipping over.
Calculation, drawings, determination of the angle of inclination of the rear wall
Correct calculations are the key to strength and reliability. To do this, you need to take into account the forces affecting its stability:
- The weight of the wall itself;
- Weight of additional parts;
- The force with which the earth presses;
- Ground grip.
You should also pay attention to corrosion factors:
- Wind (impact is directly proportional to the height of the wall);
- Seismic activity and vibration of the earth (close proximity to highways and railways);
- Expansion of the soil in the cold season;
- The harmful effects of rainwater.
Retaining wall drawings:
Determining the angle of the rear wall:
tg e = (b-t)/h– calculation of the maximum angle of inclination,
e – angle of inclination of the surface to the vertical (no more than 45-j/2); b – foundation width; t – wall thickness; h – height from the base of the foundation to the ground; j – angle of internal friction.
You can also use standard values of degrees of slope: for sandy soils 36 - 43; sandy loam 18-30; loams 12-24; clayey 11-18.
How to do
And so, the construction of the wall should begin with digging a trench that will follow the trajectory of our structure. The depth of this trench should be no more than 40 cm, provided that the wall is no more than 1 m in height. After digging, you need to put up formwork made of thick, dense boards fastened together. At the bottom of the pit you need to lay a cushion of crushed stone or gravel, and place a mesh of reinforcement on top. After the work has been done, you can pour concrete.
It takes about 5 days for the concrete to set. After 5 days, you need to remove the formwork and level out the defects on the wall surface. For this we use cement mortar. After we have eliminated the defects in the retaining wall, we can begin decorative cladding.
General points
How to properly make a retaining wall yourself? First, you should determine the purpose of the wall (decoration or leveling and strengthening the area), material, time to work and budget.
Drainage
There are 3 types of drainage: longitudinal, transverse and combined (longitudinal-transverse):
- Longitudinal - a perforated tube with a diameter of 100-150 mm is placed along the base. It should be wrapped with geotextile. It will absorb moisture and ensure unimpeded flow of water.
- Transverse - holes with a diameter of up to 10 cm are made in the wall itself or tubes with a diameter of up to 5 cm are inserted at an angle to ensure unhindered outflow of water. The recommended distance between holes is 1 meter.
Space behind a retaining wall
It is recommended to leave the finished wall for several days. Then the void between the support and the slope should be filled with drainage material. Sandy soil, brick fragments, pieces of concrete, and crushed stone are perfect for this. Next, pre-dug soil (preferably coarse soil or sandy loam sand) is poured over the laid drainage layer and laid in balls 20-40 cm thick. Each ball is compacted. At the very top there is a layer of fertile soil.
If the soil subsides (usually after a couple of weeks), it should be added. To do this, you need to remove the fertile top ball and replenish the volume of drainage material to the required height. Then the humus-rich top layer should be restored.
Note! For backfilling, materials such as clay, peat (including organic substances in an amount of more than 5% of the original weight) are not suitable!
Also, do not forget about installing drainage canopies and ditches. They will keep the masonry from getting water into the seams, which can destroy them when frozen.
More details about the material
The material of the future wall has both practical and decorative significance. Price, assembly speed, design reliability and aesthetic factor:
- Decorative stone looks solid and expensive, and lasts a long time. The downside is the high price.
- A concrete wall looks boring and ordinary, but this can be easily solved with the help of decorations. Pebbles, tiles, and tile fragments are suitable for this. It can also be decorated with flowers by first embedding pots of soil into the wall. Do not forget that if the concrete wall you envision is higher than 30 cm, then it will certainly need a foundation.
Based on personal preferences and practical factors, choosing a material will not be difficult for you.
Waterproofing
The surface of the wall that is adjacent to the ground must be covered with a waterproofing ball. An excellent solution is to use roofing felt or roofing felt, which are attached to the wall on top of hot mastic. If the soil is sufficiently dry, you can limit yourself to only mastic or bitumen. However, they should be applied in several layers for reliability. Also, the modern market offers a lot of synthetic waterproofing materials.
Foundation
Foundation parameters are based on the following factors:
- support dimensions;
- soil type;
- the depth of its freezing;
- presence of flowing groundwater. Based on the depth of the foundation, a distinction is made between shallow and deep (exceeds the width of the base by 1.5 or more times) foundation.
In practice, 2 types of foundations are used: strip and pile. The tape is a solid block that follows the line of the wall and is laid at a depth of at least 60 cm.
When calculating the depth of laying this type of foundation, the depth of soil freezing should be taken into account.
The pile type is more reliable and stable; it is used in cases where the retaining wall is laid on loose soil, or where groundwater flows underneath it at the site of its construction. Piles make it possible to deepen the foundation by several meters or more, giving the entire structure the necessary stability and reliability. 
Body
The body is the above-ground component of the support. Its main functions:
- Ensure stability - due to the mass of the structure itself and the earth;
- Decorative – should provide a pleasant visual perception;
It is also necessary to distinguish different types of body fastening: rigid structure (monolithic concrete blocks, brickwork) and elastic (materials that can withstand minor deformation without destruction).
Based on the design parameters, it is necessary to determine the need for tilt. If the wall height does not exceed 1.5 meters, then, as a rule, a slope is not required. If the specified value is exceeded, a slight slope will improve its visual perception.
How to decorate, decor
The retaining wall is an immediate part of the garden plot; it must be in harmony and be combined with the components surrounding it. And here personal tastes come to the forefront: some prefer a rough and uncouth look, others strive to decorate the wall and achieve its uniqueness. Solutions that can help in decorating a retaining wall:
- Creation with a small fence on top of or near a wall;
- Finishing the outside of the wall with tiles, tiles or decorative stone;
- Painting the wall with durable paint - this solution will give it the most unexpected and bold look;
- Creation of small original transitions in the form of steps;
- You can place flowerpots with plants on top of the wall, or they can be built into the wall itself in advance;
- By inviting an artist, you can turn the retaining wall into a canvas, outlining it with various images.
Imagination and previous experience show that such a practical element as a retaining wall can easily be turned into a nice and original element of your site.
Decorative print that creates a masonry effect on a concrete surface.
A poured concrete wall giving a multi-layer effect.
Hollow concrete blocks laid in a checkerboard pattern.
Retaining wall-flower bed made of concrete blocks.
The perfectly smooth, calm surface of concrete polished with a special machine acts as a decorative accent.
An ensemble of concrete and wood-decorated elements of retaining walls, modernist benches and decor.
Price for work, if ordered
When calculating the price, the following indicators are taken into account:
- Terrain conditions (type of underlying soil, presence of groundwater, climate);
- Wall height;
- Number of linear meters;
- Presence of slope;
- Type of drainage, construction of water outflow in the form of canopies and trenches;
- The material from which the retaining wall is made;
- Type and volume of the foundation;
- The price is directly for the work (individual for each performer).
Using a specific example, having studied market offers, the price for 1 linear meter of a gabion retaining wall will cost in the range of 1 to 2 thousand rubles. For more accurate information, you must contact the contractor directly, who will carry out all the necessary calculations.
Video instructions
A clear example of the manufacture of a concrete retaining wall on an area with a strong difference in height is in the blog “Roman Vityaz”.
