To connect risers with steps, we will choose the simplest and most sufficient effective way for connecting parts made of solid wood - this is a connection using wooden dowels. In our case, the dowel performs the same function as in the manufacture of log houses - it is to maintain the verticality of the riser and prevent it from moving in any direction.
In the figure, the numbers indicate the installation locations of the dowels; as you can see, it is necessary to install at least three dowels: two on the side and one dowel in the center of the step. This option for installing dowels will allow you to securely secure the riser to the stair tread. It is advisable to make the depth of the dowel in the step and riser at least half the thickness of the step, that is, 20 mm.
The dowel for connecting risers and steps can be made, for example, from solid birch, oak or beech.
You can start marking the holes in the steps only after the steps have been cut to the size we need - 860 mm! We cut the steps from the side that is located towards the wall of the house.
Now we are moving on to preparing the connections between the riser and the steps. As can be seen from the figure, first step A is installed, then the riser into which the dowels are already inserted, and then step B is installed.
In order to attach the pad to the step in this way, it is necessary to make holes in the steps of the stairs. We also make holes in the risers and install dowels in them. Let's start with an example of marking the locations of holes from the bottom stage A:
Making holes on the front side
From the rear end of the step we measure 10 mm and draw the X axis. From the left end we measure 430 mm, the middle of the step and draw the Y1 axis. We mark the side holes as follows - we measure 50 mm from the left and right ends and draw the Y axis and the Y2 axis. At the intersection of the Y axes and the X axis, we place marks that serve as the center of the holes.
The marking of the step under the letter B is almost identical. We will just find the axis as follows. From the rear end of the step we measure 289 mm and draw the axis we need. Next, we repeat all the steps for marking the holes, as we did when marking the steps from the front side:
Making holes on the back side
On the riser at the lower and upper ends we apply markings as follows. We measure 10 mm from the rear end and draw the X axis. Next, in order for the holes in the risers to coincide with the holes in the steps, we locate the Y axes in the same way as on the steps.
In order for the holes to have the same depth, they must be drilled with a depth limiter, which can be done using an adjustment bar on the drill or the drilling depth limiter is attached to the drill.
There are several ways to assemble staircase structures. Some things require the work of specialists, while others can be assembled on your own.
One of these options assumes that the staircase will be constructed on bowstrings.
Here a natural question arises: what is the string of a ladder? There is a fairly simple definition - this is the support load-bearing structure flight of stairs, which is presented in the form of a beam with special cutouts on inside. The cutouts are designated as grooves or sockets and the steps are located in them.
This is not the only way to attach steps, but it is considered the classic one. This type of fastening allows the steps to merge with the string without showing their ends.
Material and dimensions
In terms of material, strings for stairs can be made of wood or metal, as well as reinforced concrete.
When choosing wood as a material, you can go in two ways:
- Conifers, spruce, pine, fir, cedar. Despite all the advantages, these rocks emit resin, which can subsequently interfere with the normal painting of a flight of stairs.
- Deciduous. Oak, maple, cherry, beech. This is the most preferable option (see also the article Oak stairs - manufacturing and assembly features).
The dimensions of the bowstring always depend on the length of the flight of stairs, but we can give standard sizes for a wooden support beam, taking into account the width of 90 cm, this is a minimum of 40 mm thickness and 300 mm - the width of the beam. The depth of the slot cut is calculated at 20-30 mm. (see also the article Required width of a flight of stairs)
Important!
The size between the cutouts and the width of the socket in the lateral planes of the beam determine all the main characteristics of the span.
This includes the width of the tread, the height of the step and the angle of inclination of the structure.
Production
If we are talking about support beams made of wood, then making a string for a staircase will first require selecting lumber, and the size in length and width must correspond to the design recommendations. Thus, a solid beam is obtained, without splicing.
The minimum permissible beam width is 275 mm, this is due to the fact that there must be a strip of string at least 50 mm wide above and below the steps.
The second step is marking the string of the stairs, and here it is necessary to take into account that the actual number of steps in the flight of stairs will be less than the calculated one. The floor level of the second level is simply taken as a step.
Marking can be done in two simple ways:
- Using a corner and a ruler. But there is always a high risk of error here.
- Using a specially prepared template.
In addition, you need to determine the location of the steps in relation to the bowstring.
And here there are also two options:
- No reference line. In this case, the groove is made open.
- With a reference line, insertions are made closed.
Important!
There is a third option, in which the marking is carried out not for inserts, but for support fasteners, overlays or metal corners.
Here it is carried out in the same way, taking into account the reference line.
The reference line is a line drawn along the entire length of the edge of the beam, which is located at a certain distance, for example, 50 mm, from the edge of the beam.
All wooden blanks are treated with antiseptics and impregnated with a primer before work begins.
Calculation
The instructions for calculating the stairs are based on a formula that works on the step length.
Everything can be shown schematically as follows:
- The average length of a human step is 60-66 cm, more precisely 63 cm, accordingly the formula used is 2 step heights + step depth = 63 ± 3 cm.
- At the same time, the most optimal inclination flight of stairs is from 30° to 40°.
- The depth of the step should correspond to shoe size 45, that is, be no less than 28-30 cm. If even the bowstring cannot provide such a depth, then the step is chosen wider, and the shortcoming is compensated by the protrusion.
Important!
The depth of the step plays a decisive role in the issue of safe ascent and descent along any flight of stairs.
The height of the steps should be 15-20 cm.
Working on your own
Independent production of a flight of stairs begins with calculations and preparation required material. After that, markings are made with your own hands, and the manufacturing process begins.
To work you will need certain tools:
- Tape measure, ruler, square, building level
- Jigsaw.
- Manual milling machine.
- Drill.
- Hammer with rubber tip.
After marking, it is necessary to cut out the nests. This is quite simply done with a manual milling machine, thus the string for stairs is completely prepared for the installation of steps
Depending on the type of fastening of the steps, either a closed socket cutout or an open groove is made.
In the third option, support connections are simply installed according to the markings.
Next comes the fastening of the entire structure. Here it is immediately necessary to note that the stair string is adjacent directly to two planes, this is the landing of the first floor, and ceiling, or half of the second floor.
Thus, a certain load is placed on the landing. Any staircase, including wooden staircases on bowstrings, is a static structure in which the beams are located on two supports. In addition, the ladder is always in an inclined position.
It is precisely because of technical issues in the design that the lower support of a flight of stairs always bears the maximum load, both horizontal and vertical.
But the load on the upper support is only of a vertical type, and only if the strings of the flight of stairs rest on the platform only in the horizontal plane.
Attaching and installing the bowstring
In the event that the bowstring fastening wooden stairs passes near the wall, and this is the most preferable option, the wall beam must be carefully measured and cut from above, where it will rest on the cross beam of the opening, and from below, where the string will lie flat on the floor plane.
Important!
The entire structure can be “planted” with glue, and it will be possible to finally connect it after all the adjustment of the beams to the floor levels has been made.
The adjustment of the wall string in the upper part is carried out as follows:
- The assembled march is placed on its side so that the attached string is at the bottom, then a line is drawn along the inside of the riser and the top step.
- Now another line is drawn, which will go from the rear edge of the frieze tread to the very level of the plinth; in practice, the most common line is 75 mm long.
- Next, the upper riser is removed; this is an option; we remind you once again that final installation is made after all the adjustments, and the bowstring is sawed off along the given guides.
- Regarding how the stair string is installed along the floor line, it can be noted that here a line is drawn parallel to the bottom tread along which the bottom of the beam is sawn off.
- Before installing the structure, it is necessary to make a recess on the upper support post; it is with its help that the post will fit tightly onto the upper ceiling. The excavation is always carried out directly along the entire flight of stairs, completely ready for installation.
In addition, a do-it-yourself ladder on bowstrings requires the presence of tongues for fastening to the upper and lower support posts. Naturally, special grooves for tongues must be made in the racks.
All flight of stairs is held under its own weight, however, for reliability, the march is fastened with screws through the support posts to the beams, and through the bowstring to the wall.
Before attaching the ladder string to the floor, it is very important to determine the method of fastening, because it is in this area that a serious load will constantly be placed.
Most preferable look following types fastenings:
- The support post can be installed in a specially prepared hole in the floor screed.
- The support post is secured with steel anchors.
The second option is much easier to implement in practice, especially considering that the work is carried out independently.
Conclusion
Among all the structures, a staircase on a bowstring + built with your own hands is considered the most simple option. Especially if it is straightforward and consists of one march.
This design is suitable both for a private house or cottage, and for arranging a two-level apartment.
Plus, that's enough inexpensive option a flight of stairs, which does not even have to be done with railings, and in this case it will only be enough to purchase two beams and a board for the steps. And in the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.
The most convenient option is to attach the steps to the stringer at the top. This option for fastening steps, in turn, can also be divided into several fastening methods:
- Fastening the step to the stringer, leaving the head of the hardware on the surface of the step, bolt-nut or bolt-thread connection in the stringer.
- Attaching the step to the stringer with the hardware head partially recessed into the step. The connection is the same as in the first method.
If you choose the first method of attaching the steps to the staircase frame, then in this case it is necessary to purchase bolts with a decorative head and, preferably, a turnkey hexagon. When installing such bolts, the decorative cap will serve as an additional decoration for the staircase, and if the fastening of the steps becomes loose during operation of the staircase, then tightening or replacing the fastening material can be done without hindrance, because access to the bolt and nuts in this case is free and nothing interferes with repairs. works
When choosing the second method, when the head of the hardware is partially recessed into the step and the hole is closed from above with a wooden plug or putty. In this case, repairing the steps (replacing or tightening the fasteners) will be difficult, since we will have to drill out a wooden plug in order to get to the head of the hardware, and you will agree that this is not entirely convenient option for repairing steps or tightening fastenings.
In principle, these two methods of attaching steps to a stringer have almost equal chances of being used, and therefore we will consider both methods in this article. Now we need to decide on the hardware, that is, choose the most suitable bolts for the connection wooden products, in our case it is a wooden step. Next, we need to select hardware suitable for both methods.
As you can see in the photo, self-tapping screw No. 1 (on a yellow background) is suitable for fastening a step from the bottom of the stringer; accordingly, it is not suitable for the methods of fastening the step we have chosen, so let’s move on immediately to considering other hardware.
The same photo on the right shows a countersunk head bolt (No. 2). This bolt has a countersunk head with a mustache; when installing such a bolt into a hole made in a wooden step, the bolt will not be able to rotate while tightening the nut, since the mustache cuts into the wood when tightening and serves as a kind of stopper. The hole is closed from above with a wooden plug (to the left of the bolt).
The photo below shows furniture bolts with a semicircular head. There is a carriage under the head of the No. 3 bolt and a carriage under the head of the No. 4 bolt. These bolts, just like bolt No. 2 in their design feature will not rotate in the wooden step while tightening the nut. The only thing is that the heads of bolts No. 3 and 4 will remain on top of the step.
All that remains is to select the bolts. Let's choose bolt No. 4 for the first method of fastening the step and bolt No. 2 for the second method of fastening the step.
Next, we will make markings for through holes in the stringers of the stairs. We need to make at least two holes in the support corner of the left and right stringers. Let's look at an example of calculating the location of holes:
First, let's determine the center of the hole. To do this, we measure 20 mm from the edge of the stringer (half the width of the corner flange) and draw the X axis. Next, we measure 40 mm from end A and draw the Y axis, from end B we measure 60 mm and draw the Y1 axis, at the intersection of the axes we get the center of future holes .
The diameter of the holes depends on the diameter of the bolts with which we will fasten the steps. Let's take as an example the bolts we selected in photo 3. Bolt No. 2 (DIN 604) and bolt No. 4 (DIN 607) - bolt diameter 8 mm. This means that to make holes we will need a drill with a diameter greater than 8 mm, for example 8.5 mm. The use of a drill with a large diameter is not recommended in order to ensure the tightest possible installation of the bolt.
Now you need to make holes in the steps. We mark the locations of the holes in the steps so that they coincide with the holes in the stringers.
If you and I use bolt No. 2 with a countersunk head to fasten the steps, then in this case we need to drill two holes. The first hole is through with a diameter of 8...8.2 mm. Through this hole we will install a bolt with a partial recess of its head, so we need to make another hole with a diameter of 17 mm and a depth of at least 15 mm, as shown in Figure 7 (footnote on the right). Why is the hole depth exactly 15 mm?
As can be seen from Figure 7, the head of bolt No. 2 has a diameter of 16.55 mm and a height of 5 mm. This means that when installing the bolt, the head will take up at least 3...4 mm in height, and we need the remaining height of the hole to install a wooden plug with a height of 10...12 mm. Therefore, you and I will make a second hole with a depth of at least 15 mm.
When using bolt No. 4, we only need to drill one through hole with a diameter of 8...8.2 mm. In order for the whisker to cut into the step, you can make several not too strong blows with a rubber mallet on the head of the bolt. With each blow, the bolt will lower, and the mustache will cut into the step, and then when the nut is tightened, the bolt will not turn.
Installing steps and risers on stairs
So, the steps are ready to be installed on the stairs. After we figure it out, we can begin installing steps and risers on the stairs.
Let's start with the lower flight of stairs, first install the lower frieze step (A), attach it to the stringer using four bolts, for example, with a countersunk head, and install wooden plugs. Then we install the riser (B) and the second step (C), and also attach the step to the stringer. In the same order of riser - step, we continue installing steps on the entire staircase.
The procedure for installing hardware is shown in the figure in the footnote. First we install the bolt, then we put a washer and screw on the bolt, and after that we screw and tighten the nut.
Note: and we will install the lower riser after installing the staircase railing.
Every house has stairs. You can build them yourself. You just need to know well how to attach the steps of a wooden staircase to the stringer and to the bowstring. There are several assembly methods. Some of them require the actions of a master, others are done with your own hands.
Figure 1. Bowstring and riser markings.
Ladder on bowstrings
Most of the stairs in houses are assembled on bowstrings. This supporting structure flight of stairs. It is a beam with cutouts made on its inner side. Steps are inserted into these cutouts. This method is considered to be classic. Bowstrings can be made from different materials. Most often, wood, metal, and reinforced concrete are used to make them. The types of wood used are coniferous and deciduous:
- pine;
- cedar;
- fir;
- larch;
- cherry;
- maple;
Conifers are very good, but they produce resin. It prevents the paint from adhering properly. It is preferable to use hardwood.
The dimensions of the finished bowstring always depend on how long the flight of stairs is planned to be. For a staircase 90 cm wide, it is recommended to make a string from a board 40-50 mm thick and 30 cm wide. The cutouts for the nests are made approximately 20 mm deep. A minimum string width of 275 mm is allowed. The blank for the bowstring needs to be marked (Fig. No. 1). There are 2 main methods for marking:
- using a ruler and square (Fig. No. 2);
- using a special template.
When marking, consider the following:
- the slope of the march should be 30-40°;
- depth of steps - at least 30 cm;
- the height of each step is 15-20 cm.
To make bowstrings and steps you need to prepare the following:
- roulette;
- square;
- ruler;
- level;
- electric jigsaw;
- drill;
- milling machine (manual);
- hammer;
- bit;
- screwdriver;
- wooden slats or metal corners.
After marking the steps of the stairs using milling machine grooves are cut. Next, the structure is attached to the location of the stairs. This can be done in the following ways:
- install the racks in the holes made in the floor;
- attach the posts with anchor bolts.
Next comes the process of attaching the steps to the string. Treads and risers cut to size and machined are inserted into grooves or screwed to wooden blocks, to the metal corners (Fig. No. 3). These parts must be made with great precision, otherwise the finished structure will become loose and creak. The strings themselves are fastened to each other with ties in 4-5 steps.
Fastening the steps
You can attach wooden steps to a metal or wooden stringer. This is a sawtooth-shaped support beam. The wooden parts are attached to its protrusions. Stringers are installed 1 or more. The steps are attached to them using screws, the caps of which are closed on top with small wooden plugs. It is better to cut the steps from oak or pine. There are usually no risers, which gives the structure a lighter appearance. To assemble a ladder, you need to have skills in working with a welding machine.
Final finishing of the stairs
The fencing makes the stairs reliable. It consists of balusters and railings. The gap between them should not exceed 15-20 cm. They can be secured with outside bowstrings using screws. Dowels, tenons, and pins can be used to fasten balusters. For studs, a hole with a diameter of 12 mm is drilled at the end of the product to a depth of 80 mm. The studs are placed on glue, leaving approximately 7 cm outside. You need to drill holes in the bowstring to a depth of approximately 100 mm. First, install the outer columns. The twine is pulled between them and the remaining balusters are placed. All that remains is to attach the railing, made from a block 8-10 cm wide.
The entire structure is covered with a protective layer of varnish or paint. Anti-slip materials can be laid on the steps. They may be the following:
- carpet;
- linoleum;
- animal skins;
- plywood;
- cork mats;
- polyurethane;
- rubber;
- rubber;
- other materials.
Conclusion on the topic
It is simply impossible to live without stairs in a private house.
Wooden structures have become especially popular.
This video shows one of the methods for installing steps.
Wood is environmentally friendly clean materials. Its service life is measured in several decades. The finished product is easy to repair. You can also make it yourself. You just need to strictly adhere to all sizes. All parts must be well dried and soaked in antiseptics. The finished product is coated with varnish or paint. To prevent your feet from slipping on the steps, you can cover them with anti-slip materials.
If you think that only a professional can cope with this task, then you are deeply mistaken. Having become familiar with the manufacturing technology, you can make steps for stairs from wood or any other material, even if you have no experience.
Design and shape options
Step - main component flight of stairs. According to experts, the minimum permissible number of steps in a staircase is 3, and the maximum is 18. There are three main criteria that determine the type of steps.
By location:
- Frieze - there are upper and lower ones. The first one ends the climb at the upper level, and the second one starts it at the lower level.
- The rank and file are all the other steps that form the march.
By geometry:
- Straight - ordinary elements that have equal depth along the entire length of the tread. The predominant number of flight stairs consists of them, especially for direct ascents.
- Winders are elements used in modeling turning marches. They are used in screw structures and have unequal tread depths: narrower at the inner edge and wider on the opposite side.
Depending on the presence or absence of risers, stairs are:
- Open - have steps in which there is only a horizontal part or tread. Distance between structural elements remains blank.
- Closed - have steps with risers.
In addition, the elements of a flight of stairs differ from each other in shape:
- Direct. They look like a rectangle. This type not recommended for screw structures. You can attach such elements in any way.
- Round ones are characterized by radial edges. They are often used to decorate a porch on the street and as the lowest step when climbing.
- Semicircular steps are also used when entering a house from the street. They have a semicircle on one side and a straight line on the other.
- Trapezoidal elements form the structure spiral staircases and rotating staircase models.
Steps are made from different materials: wood, concrete, metal, glass, brick, veneered plywood. According to experts, it is easiest to work with wood: the blanks are easy to make and the tools for making them are quite easy to use.
Types of wood for steps
Reliability, aesthetic appearance and the durability of the elements directly depend on the characteristics of the material. The following requirements apply to the tree:
- Structural homogeneity wood fibers. High-quality workpieces are free of cracks, delaminations, knots and other defects.
Unacceptable defects in raw materials - Integrity. Before buying wood, you should pay attention to ensure that there is no rot or traces of wood-boring beetles on the workpieces.
- Humidity is within normal limits. This figure should not exceed 12%. Otherwise, the boards should be thoroughly dried before use, avoiding direct sunlight.
Items that will be subjected to constant load, it is recommended to make it from solid wood. If this is not possible, then it is permissible to use laminated veneer lumber.
Different types of wood are suitable for making steps with your own hands. But the most popular are:
- Pine. This is an inexpensive and easy to process material. It is characterized by a low degree of hardness, therefore, when working with it, you can use the most common tools. In addition, pine is always available: it is not particularly difficult to find lumber the right size and shapes. The disadvantage of pine products is considered to be low wear resistance and the appearance of yellowness on the tree a few years after installation.
- Birch. It is distinguished by its durability and special textured pattern. Unlike pine, it is more difficult to process, but birch parts will last much longer. When using birch in construction, the selection of blanks is especially difficult. It is almost impossible to find large boards of uniform color and without defects. Therefore, experts recommend covering the composite structure with veneer.
- Larch. Steps made from this type of wood do not deform, do not shrink, or rot due to the high content of tannins. The main disadvantage is the high price.
- Beech. It is considered a more suitable material for stairs inside the house. Appearance blanks - beautiful color and texture. The main disadvantage of wood is its instability to temperature fluctuations and humidity. Even beech blanks soaked in varnish will change shape when exposed to natural factors.
- Ash. Possesses high degree hardness, therefore ideal for the production of steps. However, due to the complex processing and bright texture, the material is not to everyone’s taste.
- Oak. Wooden steps for stairs made of solid oak – best choice. Such steps will last for decades. The only disadvantage of this material is its high cost.
Calculation of stair steps
Having decided on the material of the workpieces, it is necessary to begin making calculations.
Geometric parameters of steps
When manufacturing steps, template dimensions are used:
- The height of the step is equal to the length of the riser and varies from 150 to 220 mm.
- The depth of the element is the segment from the outer edge of the tread to the riser. It should be such that the foot is completely on the tread. The minimum depth is 25 cm, the maximum is 40 cm.
It should be noted that the depth of the step may not be the same along the entire length of the tread. This is observed in spiral and rotary models. It is larger on the outer edge than on the inside. The depth of the tread remains unchanged only in the center of the step. However, this disadvantage can be dealt with in two ways: using protruding steps or eliminating risers.
- The width of the step is the distance between the edges of the tread. This indicator depends on the intensity of traffic. The standard value is from 900 to 1000 mm. If the traffic is busy, then the flight of stairs can be increased to 1.5 m.
- The thickness of the tread is in a ratio of 1:20 to the width of the step. So, with a width of 900 mm, the tread thickness will be 45 mm. It should be remembered that the minimum permissible tread thickness is 35 mm.
- The thickness of the riser varies from 1.8 to 2.5 cm.
Based on the data obtained, the angle of inclination of the structure and the number of steps are calculated.
Optimal slope of the stairs
The most convenient inclination of a staircase structure is recognized to be a slope from 23 to 37 degrees. The occupied space depends on the steepness of the structure. usable area. Naturally, for more cool designs required significantly less space than for flat ones.
Selecting a slope for a structure Stairs with a slope of 45 degrees are quite difficult to climb, and with a slope of less than 23 degrees they can be replaced with a ramp.
Calculation of the number of steps in a march
To get exact quantity steps in the staircase, it is necessary to divide the height of the floor by the height of one step. The number of marches does not matter at all. It should also be noted that the floor height refers to the interval from flooring to the floor on the second floor, taking into account the thickness of the coating.
Knowing the staircase structure and height top floor, the number of steps can also be determined using a graphical method. Then, using safety formulas, find the width of the tread.
The dimensions of the steps must be taken based on the safety formula Having decided on the scale, a flight of stairs is drawn on graph paper. Errors that appeared as a result of rounding are distributed to the frieze stage of the lower tier. All remaining steps are made the same size.
Calculation of riser height How to make steps from wood with your own hands
Making steps for stairs from wood requires the following set of tools:
- electric plane;
- circular saw;
- grinding machine;
- router for edge processing.
Prepare templates of the required size and transfer them to the workpieces. Then cut out the treads and risers. When performing this work, difficulties may arise only when cutting out the turning steps due to their unconventional shape.
The resulting parts should be treated with protective agents and then installation should begin.
Installation of wooden steps
There are four types of fastenings for wooden staircase steps:
Let's assume that you want to attach elements to stringers. Then the tread and riser are connected in one of the following ways:
- screws;
- using a groove that is cut into the tread at the intended junction with the riser;
- by installing an auxiliary triangular rail that acts as a support.
Attaching to a stringer Whichever method you choose, it is recommended to additionally glue the parts to be joined to ensure greater strength.
In the case of attaching stair steps to a bowstring, they can be fixed using a block, a metal corner or a groove.
The final stage after installing the steps is finishing them with plinths.
Metal staircase with wooden steps
The wooden elements are attached to the metal base using holes made at a distance of 150 mm. In this case, it is necessary to make an indentation from the edge of 20 mm.
A plywood backing will eliminate errors arising during welding metal elements When welding metal components, errors could be made that caused minor differences in height. In this case, to eliminate irregularities, a substrate is glued to the frame. Plywood with a thickness of 10 mm is suitable for this.
To ensure that the substrate is securely fixed, self-tapping screws are additionally used. Polyurethane foam not suitable for these purposes. After hardening, it will begin to crumble under the influence of load, which will lead to loosening of the steps.
The wooden tread is pressed against the plywood with clamps and secured with self-tapping screws. To the stairs with metal frame had an attractive appearance, craftsmen advise making steps with protrusions. They will hide the ugly metal frame.
Concrete staircase with wooden steps
Despite its strength, concrete structures cannot boast of beauty. Therefore, such structures are usually laminated or decorated with wood. Wood cladding is not cheap, but the results are excellent.
Before you begin installing the steps, you need to wait until the structure is completely dry. Otherwise, the sheathing will be saturated with moisture from the wet concrete and deform in the future. The staircase must dry for at least three weeks.
After complete drying concrete mixture installation can begin The success of the operation largely depends on how carefully the formwork is prepared. But even in best case scenario Distortions and irregularities appear, which are easily eliminated with the help of a screed. After it dries, the surface is cleaned and treated with a primer.
To completely level the concrete surface and create a moisture-proofing layer, sheets of plywood are glued onto a special mastic, and additional fastening is done with dowels.
Plywood eliminates possible geometric inaccuracies of the concrete base After spending preparatory work, begin to install the steps. The treads and risers are connected to each other using grooves made in all parts. 
Installation of steps begins with the lowest riser, which is bolted to the floor. They are screwed into the end of the part so that the caps stick out 8 cm. Then they are cut off and marks are placed on the floor where they will go.
Dowel connection Make holes in the marked places and fill them epoxy resin. Finally, the riser is attached. After this, a tread with another riser attached to it is placed on the plywood with glue. To make the product stick better, it is recommended to use a weight.
Steps for outdoor entrance staircase
A neat staircase on the porch has not yet lost its relevance. Solid wood species that are resistant to constant external influences are suitable for its manufacture. As a rule, this is oak, ash, maple, beech.
For protection from external influences street structure treated with protective agents In order for the structure to serve faithfully for many years, it must be protected from natural factors such as moisture and temperature changes. Elements in contact with the ground are impregnated with oils, and the open surfaces of the steps are treated with drying oil and covered with paint or varnish.
The street staircase should be periodically inspected and, if necessary, rotten areas of the structure should be eliminated.
Exterior wooden staircase design The facing of stairs on the street has its own specifics. During the construction of the porch, metal bookmarks are left in the concrete, to which wooden steps will later be attached.
Treatment of steps with protective agents
Now you know how to make your own steps for a wooden staircase. Next, it is necessary to ensure their protection from damage and exposure to external and internal factors. For these purposes are intended special means. These include impregnations, varnishes and paints.
Impregnation protects wood from damage Impregnation is a liquid that penetrates the wood structure and gives it certain properties. The most common are:
- Fire retardant compounds that increase resistance wooden elements to high temperatures.
- Antiseptics are products that protect wood from fungi and bacteria. These compounds prevent rotting of the material even in conditions of high humidity.
- Complex impregnations that simultaneously perform the functions of tinting and disinfection.
In order for the impregnation to be evenly distributed over the wooden workpiece and deeply saturated, it is recommended to apply it to the products before installation.
Paint and varnish products are used at the very last stage of work. The only exceptions are the components of the railings, which are more convenient to paint and varnish disassembled.
Alkyd and alkyd-urethane products are suitable for painting marches; enamels are suitable for railings and risers. It is customary to coat stairs indoors with alcohol-based varnish with a matte or glossy composition. Staircases from the street they are treated with nitrocellulose products.
