Usually, to perform some new work, new tools are required. As a programmer, I am very familiar with this, since there are many years for each new task you have to create libraries and write utilities. These are the very tools with which solving the following problems becomes simpler and easier. This is probably true in many areas, except those where you have to create everything from scratch, using only knowledge and skills. (Maybe this is why I don’t really like to draw, for example, because I’m used to using previous developments).
I finally finished my router table. (It took 7 evenings to create). At first I thought of buying a ready-made one, but the ones I found for affordable money and suitable for my work did not suit me at all. And I decided to make it myself using the hand router that I had Caliber FE-650E.
Milling table- a very useful handicraft tool. I hadn’t thought much about this before, but if you look around in any house, you can see many objects that have been processed on the milling table: window frames, furniture doors, picture frames, wooden skirting boards, door frames, trims, etc.
First, as usual, I modeled it in a 3D program. I didn’t copy someone else’s table, but developed a model for myself, having seen a bunch of ready-made similar milling tables on the Internet. The idea is general, the essence is the same, the details differ, because... everyone realizes it for themselves, using what they have and what they are capable of.
The side stop has slotted grooves and can move back and forth and is fixed in the desired position with two wings. A chip discharger is connected to the angle stop. (The milling cutter produces a lot of chips during operation) If required, the side stop can be easily removed and replaced with other devices or nothing at all.
The stop has two doors that can move apart and move depending on the size of the cutter. The position of each door is fixed with thumbs.
A regular vacuum cleaner hose is connected to the chip discharger.
This router model did not have fine depth adjustment. It was necessary to press on the router and use a clamp to catch the desired depth. (It should be noted that this is terribly inconvenient. You have to struggle with rearranging the depth several times to get to the right one)
I modified the frame by adding the so-called “elevator”.
I drilled the frame and installed an adjusting screw with a high nut (in the picture in the center). By tightening the nut, you can smoothly adjust the depth.
This is how the depth is adjusted: set desired value on the square, and using a wrench, lift the cutter until it stops against the square.
The only remaining inconvenience is that this procedure requires two hands. You need to press the depth lock on the router with one hand and turn the nut with the other. I have a solution, but haven't had time to implement it yet. When I do it, I can adjust the depth with one hand. And the clamp to hold the corner will no longer be needed.
Please note that the top of the side support is specifically designed to be attached to various devices.
In general, there are ready-made sites for the manufacture of milling tables on sale. There are some with holes for specific models of the router, and there are universal ones in which you can drill holes for your model yourself. The platforms are quite expensive (1500-5000 rubles) and are much larger in size than required for my mini-table.
I made my own platform for the router from plexiglass (6mm), removing the original one plastic platform from the router bed.
Fitting the glass to the window.
First samples.
The stand for the cutters is processed by the cutter on the left. I processed the planks for her
By the way, a cutter with a roller does not require a side stop. This way you can process the edges on a bare table, although it is still more convenient to have another point of emphasis, especially when processing cylindrical workpieces.
What I have left to finish:
- Cut a couple of glasses to install larger diameter cutters.
- Make clamping devices that are installed on the side stop and table top, ensuring tight pressure of the workpiece to the cutter.
- Improve the convenient key that regulates the depth of the cutter.
- Workpiece advance limiters (on the side stop).
- Special paw-pushers for the workpiece (A router is a dangerous tool. If I seriously injure my hands, it will be especially bad for me, because after that I will not be able to play most musical instruments).
- Special stop for working with edge cutters.
- Angular stop with a protractor, a device that allows you to move the workpiece at a certain angle using a rail.
- Sleds for feeding the workpiece along the table at a right angle.
- A device for cutting "box joints".
- Trap container for chips. (The original vacuum cleaner bag gets clogged very quickly)
- Well, and some other little things.
I hope that this post will be found by those who may find it useful.
Other interesting posts about my homemade instruments:
...
When processing a surface with a hand router, it often becomes necessary to hold the product at the same time. A milling table is designed for such situations.
Of course, you can purchase this device at construction stores, but it’s not cheap, so it’s better to spend a little time and make a milling table yourself.
Types of milling tables
The amount of work to be done will depend on which version of the table you need.
There are several types of router tables:
- Stationary
Free-standing, full-fledged desktop. - Portable
Tabletop design, which can be installed if necessary. - Aggregate
An option when, in order to work with a router, the surface of the saw table is expanded (pictured).
Design elements
In this article we will look at a stationary milling table. Having made it, you can independently cope with any other type of construction.
The most main part table - bed. It consists of a frame (legs, frame, etc.) and a table top (including a metal plate and other table components). The height of the bed varies from 75 cm to 1 meter and can be adjusted individually.
An old unnecessary table, which can easily be converted into a milling table, is quite suitable as a bed.
The tabletop is made of chipboard, laminated chipboard, thick plywood or plastic. Optimal thickness sheet – 16 mm. The material for the frame should be selected taking into account the fact that wooden pieces will constantly move along its surface. Therefore, it should be smooth. Often the countertop is made of metals that are not subject to corrosion (for example, aluminum).
There is a mounting plate in the middle of the tabletop. Many people think that they can do without this detail, but this is not true. The mounting plate is a holder for everything milling equipment.
The thickness of the plate should be no more than 8 mm. The material used depends on desire and capabilities. It can be metal, textolite, durable plywood or other sheet material. A hole is cut in the center of the plate to fit the size of the router sole.
Important: Models of milling cutters differ from each other, so when making a table you should take into account that its height should be ideal for your height, and the mounting of the router and the size of the hole should be exactly for your tool.
Stationary milling table
Let's consider the option of making a milling table with a metal frame and a tabletop made of Dutch plywood.
Materials and tools
In order to make a table for a manual router with your own hands, you will need the following materials:
- metal corner or pipe (for frame)
- aluminum guide
- axles for mounting the router
- putty, primer and paint for metal
- self-tapping screws
- furniture bolts 6 x 60 mm
- Hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts – 4 pcs.
- Finnish moisture-resistant laminated plywood, 18 mm thick (you can use another material)
- boards or plywood scraps (for making a rip fence).
The following tools are also required:
- welding machine (for metal table frame)
- drill and bits
- screwdriver
- jigsaw
- milling cutter
- spatula, brushes, rags.
How to make and assemble a transforming table with your own hands:
You might also be interested in the DIY article.
And about how to make a table for yourself sewing machine, you can find out from
Manufacturing stages
Step 1. First, we make the table frame: the tabletop holder is welded from 4 profile pipes 25 x 25 mm, on one side of the table it is necessary to weld another pipe along which the parallel stop will move. The legs are welded to them.
You can weld on each side of the frame (along the perimeter where the tabletop will be located) a corner as long as a pipe, so that the tabletop sits on these corners in the recess.
Another option, which we will use, will be to install additional supports for the tabletop: we weld two more pipes onto the long sides, which will serve not only as a support for the plywood, but also as a limiter for the router (the distance between them should be such that you can safely cut out a hole for mounting the device).
In order to workplace was more stable, we weld reinforcing bridges between the table legs, at a distance of about 20 cm from the floor.
Step 2. For coloring you need to take oil paint(not suitable for aluminum and galvanized steel!). We clean the metal from dirt and degrease it using any solvent (alcohol, kerosene, etc.). If necessary, you can fill the surface with a special putty and prime it.
Please note: all actions should be carried out in a respirator and a ventilated area.
For primers You can use the same paint that will be used for further painting, but diluted with a solvent. More long term and qualitative the result is obtained during processing specialized compositions for metal.
After application last standing you need to wait until it's full drying out and only then proceed to further actions.
Step 3. We cut the tabletop exactly to fit metal frame so that it fits firmly into the corners. For greater strength, you can drill (with a metal drill) holes in metal pipes(or corners) and fasten the edges of the tabletop to the frame with furniture bolts. Size finished countertop– 84 x 59 cm, table height – 90 cm.
Step 4. At a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge we cut aluminum guide along the entire length of the tabletop.
Step 5. Cut the axes for the router in half. This will help increase the space between the sole and the guide axle to 11mm (if using uncut axles, this distance will be only 6mm).
Step 6. We remove the sole from the router and mark 4 holes in the middle of the tabletop for its fastening, and drill them. We make a hole in the middle of the tabletop. The hole size will be different for each tool! Holes are drilled to the left and right of the hole into which the bolts for securing the clamps of the router axes are inserted (they will no longer be removed).
Step 7 On the reverse side, you need to use a router to make a large groove for sole milling cutter.
In the groove itself, at the top and bottom of the through hole, cut small grooves (with a router) equal in length to the axes. At the ends of the grooves, use a Forstner drill to make small recesses for adjusting bolts with hexagonal hole.
Step 8 We cut out two pieces of pipe equal to the width of the large groove. We drill holes in them for bolts that cannot be removed. We have obtained clamps for the router axes. Nuts are screwed onto the bolts.
Step 9 Hex nuts and bolts are placed on both sides axes and are necessary in order to carry out plane adjustment milling cutter.
Step 10 We make a parallel stop. To do this, a groove is cut in a small piece of plywood for movement along a pipe specially welded for this purpose. Using a jigsaw, three equal-sized strips of plywood are cut out (length of the strip = table length + width of the guide pipe) and 4 stiffening ribs for them.
A semicircular hole is made in one strip of plywood for the release of chips, which should correspond to the slot in the tabletop. A square hole is made in the second strip in the same place.
The third strip of plywood is sawn in half. It is attached to the back of the strip with a square hole using bolts (then you need to make long grooves for their movement) or simple guides. The plywood halves should move apart in different directions. An aluminum guide is installed at the very top edge of this strip.
Step 11 We fasten the first and second strips together with the sides with cutouts. We attach stiffening ribs: two - along the edges of the resulting big hole at the junction of the plywood strips and one at a time on both sides (at a distance of 7–10 cm from the edge).
Cut out a small square from thin plywood(which would fit between the stiffening ribs located in the middle), closer to the middle we make a hole equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner pipe. The plywood is attached to the stiffeners, forming a triangular box.
Step 12 The parallel stop for the milling table is fixed with clamps. This is done so that the milling table can be easily removed and rearranged. If it is completely intended for the router, you can fix emphasis using brackets with grooves for its movement.
Step 13 For convenience, we weld a 6-mm metal plate to a regular bolt. The clamps are made of wood, with two grooves for such bolts. It is necessary to have two such clamps.
Step 14 We install the router: we thread our half-cut axles into the side holes of the router, put nuts on them and secure the router with pipe clamps.
Step 15 We turn the table over. Using a hex wrench, turn the bolt, lifting the router up (1 turn = 1 mm).
Can be installed with a jack so you don't have to use bolts all the time. To turn on the router, we attach a socket with a switch to one of the legs, which will act as an ON/OFF button.
Please note: for convenience, you can provide a small tape to hold the wire from the router while working.
Workplace safety
When working with power tools, do not forget about the safety rules:
- When working with a router, be careful not to turn away from it or move workpieces near the tool with your hands.
- Always use restraints, safety glasses and gloves.
- Keep children away from the operating machine.
- If a malfunction occurs, immediately unplug the router and take it to a workshop.
For more information on how to make a table for a hand router, see video:
When purchasing a milling machine, it is not always possible to determine the exact tasks for it and the scope of work to be performed. Therefore, the master, thinking about buying, tries to find universal option, combine the precision of machining on a machine and the compactness of a manual milling machine.
In this article we will look at a compromise option - a table for a manual router with your own hands, drawings of this device and structural elements are attached below.
To make a milling table with your own hands, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, or bought ready-made option, you need to have at least the slightest idea about their designs.
Workflow hand cutters consists of moving the tool along the plane of the workpiece. If the router is permanently fixed and the workpiece is moved, then the manual machine becomes a milling machine. It takes up little more space than a manual or portable version, and has undeniable advantages over compact models.
It is preferable to perform a number of milling operations only in a stationary position - cutting out grooves and grooves, various methods of processing the edges of products and laying tenon joints.
The first thing we will do when making a table for a manual router with our own hands is to choose a location. It is necessary to understand in what design the table will be made: modular, removable or stationary.
Depending on the frequency of use of the milling table, its type is selected. If it is rarely used, then a portable option is suitable. If the master works every day, then we will make a free-standing stationary table with our own hands. The design of a portable milling machine allows you to remove a manual router from a structure, and remount it after the job is completed.
Basic elements of a milling table
Let's consider an option - a table for a manual router, which is easy to make with your own hands, without resorting to outside help.
It is difficult to imagine a full-fledged milling machine without the main elements of its design:
- bed;
- table top;
- mounting plate;
- longitudinal stop;
- pressing combs.
bed
You can assemble a table for a hand router with your own hands from scrap materials (cut plywood sheets, chipboard, edged board, metal corners, pipes). We will put together a bed for the machine from boards or use an old table or bedside table. 
Anything that allows you to react firmly and steadily to the vibration of the milling machine and will perform the functions of load-bearing structure machine
When making a machine bed with his own hands, the master must choose the right height for himself. Only by taking into account the characteristics of the operator (height, arm length, etc.) will the work process take place in comfortable conditions without harm to health.
For work surface convenient to use kitchen countertop. But this option is relevant if you changed kitchen furniture and the old tabletop lies idle. Otherwise, it is easier to use plywood.
The recommended thickness for the table top is 16 mm, so 8 mm plywood sheets are glued together, which allows you to get a strong and reliable table for a manual router. To improve sliding, the surface of the tabletop is covered with a sheet of textolite, which will simplify the feeding of the workpiece to the working body of the milling machine.
The dimensions of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workpieces being processed; the width of the tabletop changes, but the depth and thickness remain unchanged. The picture shows a table top with dimensions suitable for most jobs. Compliance with the dimensions is not mandatory; each master changes them to suit specific conditions and requirements.
A hole is cut in the center of the tabletop for attaching a milling machine. The dimensions of this hole are larger than the seat plate of the milling machine. The edges of the hole are folded for installation mounting plate, to which the cutter is mounted. The depth of the rebate is equal to the thickness of the mounting plate so that it is flush with the surface of the table.
For greater machine functionality and part processing capabilities different sizes grooves are selected in the tabletop. They install a guide profile for a standard carriage with a stop, which allows you to fix the longitudinal stop and the horizontal clamping ridge in the required position.
The mounting plate is required to attach the router to the table. It is made from durable materials such as metal, plastic, textolite, plywood. Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used for fastening. To make it easier to control the dimensions of the workpiece, a ruler is attached to the plate.
The plate should fit tightly into its seat on the machine table top. Its thickness does not exceed 6 mm, and this is its advantage over attaching a router directly to the bottom of the tabletop. The small thickness of the plate increases the milling depth and allows you to easily dismantle the router yourself. The hole in the insert is larger than the cutter used. The diameter of cutters varies from 3 mm to 76 mm, so it is recommended to use inserts with replaceable rings to change the hole for the cutter.
When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is required that guides the workpiece along the table. The result of the work done with your own hands will be accurate if the stop is smooth in length and perpendicular to the surface of the table top. The stop can be solid and equipped with movable pads that allow you to adjust the gaps around the cutter.
A vertical clamping comb is placed on the longitudinal stop, which fixes the workpiece in the vertical direction. Equipped with a branch pipe, the stop allows you to connect the vacuum cleaner hose in close proximity to the working element, which allows you to remove sawdust and dust from the workplace.
Longitudinal stop (front view) 
Longitudinal stop (rear view) 
To fix the workpiece to the working surface and the longitudinal stop, vertical and horizontal clamping ridges are installed.
The vertical ridge is placed on the stop structure. Due to the longitudinal hole in the wall of the stop, the ridge moves in a vertical plane and can be fixed at any height with fasteners.
The horizontal pressure stop is placed on the tabletop of the milling machine. Thanks to the longitudinal guide profile on the tabletop, the pressure comb moves lengthwise and crosswise in a horizontal plane.
- If the floors in the workshop are uneven, it is recommended to make adjustable supports for the milling table yourself, with the help of which you can adjust the comfortable height for work.
- To ensure durability of the equipment, the wooden parts of the milling table are coated with a protective layer (paint, varnish).
- Mount the protective glass on the longitudinal support, which will protect your eyes from chips and dust.
- To protect your hands while working milling machine use gloves.
- Do not wear loose-fitting clothes.
- Use hand routers with a power rating greater than 1100 watts.
- Install the cutter in the collet 3/4 the length of the shank.
Safety precautions when working with a milling machine:
- before starting work, it is necessary to check the fastening of the stop;
- do not apply much force when milling (too strong a feed will damage the tool);
- install the cutter in the collet 3/4 of the length of the shank, but not tightly, but leaving a gap of at least 3 mm;
- using cutters large diameter, reduce the rotation speed;
- disconnect the tool from the power supply before performing adjustments and maintenance;
- Monitor the condition of the cutters and do not use damaged ones.
A milling table can significantly increase work efficiency and productivity. There are many models available for sale to suit a wide variety of manual milling cutters. However, the price of finished products is very high. It is much more profitable and interesting to assemble the table with your own hands. You don’t need any expensive materials or difficult-to-use tools for this.
General information about the design of the milling table
The milling table can be installed on a workbench or on a specially assembled separate table. The product must have a rigid structure and good stability, because During operation, a very noticeable vibration will be created. Be sure to take into account the fact that the router will be installed from below the countertop and absolutely nothing should interfere with it. None additional elements are not installed there.
Design homemade table provides for the presence of a mounting plate, due to which the router will be attached directly to the table. To create a plate use durable material high quality: plywood, textolite, sheet metal, etc.
A recess is created on top of the tabletop for the plate. The plate itself is fixed using self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The router is secured with screws with the same hidden head. Additional fixation of the plate can be done using clamps.
To conveniently turn on the router, a button is attached to the table. Additionally, it is recommended to install an emergency shutdown button of the mushroom type. If you have to work with large workpieces, equip the table with upper clamping devices. For even greater convenience and accuracy, the table is equipped with a ruler.
For self-assembly For a router table you will need the following tools:
- Electric jigsaw. If you don't have one, you can get by with a hacksaw.
- Plane. Preferably electric.
- Chisel.
- Sander. If you don’t have it, you can get by with a block of sandpaper, but processing with them will require more time and effort.
- A screwdriver or drill with a screwdriver function.
- Electric drill with a set of drills.
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Initial stage of table assembly
Explore your workshop and choose a location to install your future router table. Determine the most suitable design products. Tables are:
- Aggregate. At their core, they are a side extension of a standard saw table.
- Portable. A very convenient and ergonomic desktop option.
- Stationary. It is installed separately and assembled specifically for the router.
If your router table will be used infrequently, or you have to work outside the workshop, opt for a portable option. If you have enough space, create a separate table. For greater convenience, it can be equipped with wheels, which will allow you to “move” to another place if necessary.
You can assemble a small structure and install it on an ordinary table. You can take chipboard suitable size and install a guide on it. Guide in in this case is a board of relatively small thickness, secured with bolts.
Take 2 clamps. Make a hole for the cutter. This will complete the main work. However, if the machine is your main working tool, you need to approach the process more thoroughly and create a comfortable and reliable table at which you will feel comfortable spending time.
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Preparing the bed and tabletop
The bed is the stationary part of any milling table. At its core, it is a frame on supports with a tabletop on top. The material of the frame is not particularly important. Suitable for wood, metal, chipboard, MDF. The main thing is to ensure the required rigidity and maximum stability. The dimensions of the bed are also not critical. Select them taking into account the size of materials you most often have to process.
The lower part of the bed should be deepened by 10-20 cm in relation to the front overhang of the tabletop. Dimensions, as already noted, select to suit your needs. For example, to process the ends of facade blanks and door trims, you can make a bed 150 cm wide, 90 cm high, 50 cm deep.
Very important characteristic in this case is the height. The optimal value is considered to be 85-90 cm. It’s good if you can equip the bed with adjustable supports. They will allow you to compensate for uneven floor surfaces and change the height of the milling table if the need arises.
To make a homemade table, you can take an ordinary kitchen countertop made of chipboard. A 26 or 36 mm thick plate with a wear-resistant plastic coating is used. Thanks to the plastic, the workpiece will slide well on the tabletop, and the chipboard will take on the task of dampening vibration. As a last resort, you can use laminated chipboard or MDF with a thickness of at least 16 mm.
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What do you need to know about the mounting plate?
A mounting plate must be fixed near the place where the router sole is attached. The best is considered durable and at the same time thin material. The most commonly used material is sheet metal. A more convenient and equally durable option is textolite (fiberglass). Usually this is a rectangular plate 4-8 mm thick. It is necessary to prepare a hole in the center of such a plate. Its diameter should be the same as the diameter of the hole in the base of the router.
The base of the router is usually equipped with standard threaded holes necessary for attaching the plastic cover. Thanks to these holes, the router is fixed to the mounting plate. If there are no holes initially, make them yourself. You can use another method of attaching the router, for example, with metal clamps. Holes for securing the plate are created closer to its corners.
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Step-by-step instructions for assembling the table
First you need to secure the tabletop to the finished frame. A plate is placed on a pre-selected place on the tabletop. Take a pencil and trace its contours. Next, you need to take a hand router with a 6-10 mm cutter and select a seat for the mounting plate in the countertop. It should lie flush, i.e. compose perfectly flat surface with the tabletop, as if one whole.
U seat There should be slightly rounded corners. You can round them using a file. After adding the mounting plate, take a cutter with a thickness slightly greater than the thickness of the tabletop, and make through holes in the tabletop exactly according to the shape of the router sole. You don’t have to try too hard; perfect accuracy is not required at this stage. At the bottom of the tabletop, you need to make an additional sample for the dust collector casing and other accessories that you plan to equip your milling table with.
The work is almost complete, you just need to assemble everything into a single product. Place the router from underneath and screw it to the plate. Secure the plate to the tabletop with self-tapping screws. The screw caps must be recessed, otherwise they will interfere with the work process. Finally screw the tabletop to the frame.
In order to increase convenience and safety, you can equip the design with an upper pressure roller device. This addition will be especially useful when processing large workpieces, such as door trims. The design of the clamp does not have any complex elements, so you can make and install it yourself without any problems.
A ball bearing can be used as a roller the right size. The bearing is installed in a holding fixture. The device itself must be firmly fixed at the required distance from the surface of your countertop. This way you will ensure constant tight pressure of the workpiece being processed to the surface of the tabletop as the product passes under the roller. Thanks to this, the accuracy and safety of the work performed will be increased.
We offer you tabletops, plates, and ready-made kits for milling and saw tables. All of the above is produced on CNC machines, i.e. factory-made!
Minimum cost ready-made kit 16500 RUR, which consists of:
-tabletop made of laminated plywood 800x600x27 mm. with profile for working with additional tools
-aluminum parallel fence with dust extraction and sliding cheeks
-plate for any model of router (stainless steel/steel with engraved ruler)
Other configurations or self-assembly from components are possible!
Shipping to TK regions! Pickup from Klinsky district. M.O.
For pickup, get a 3% discount on all products!
Ready-made kits, tabletops, underframes, fixtures and much more (clamps, clamps, cutters, etc.) on my website: frezer-stol.
The photo shows tabletops, plates for routers, circular saws and ready-made mobile kits!
Tabletop characteristics:
Plywood - GRADE 1, furniture grade, smooth lamination on both sides.
The thickness of the coating (film) has been increased from 120/120 to 220/220 g/sq.m., which makes it more wear-resistant to abrasion and moisture-resistant.
For milling tables there is a milled platform for steel plates (size 350 x 250 mm, other plate sizes are possible) on which they are mounted different models hand cutters or circular saws!
Adjustment pins are installed in the corners to level the plate into a plane. We have plates available for Triton, Elmos, Makita, Hitachi, Bosch, etc. as well as some other models. There are also universal plates, stainless steel top/bottom, steel, without holes for mounting a router with a marking scale and ruler, for the possibility of independently marking and installing your own router. The accuracy of the metric ruler applied by laser on the plate, according to GOST..
In addition, we have blades for CIRCULAR saws, with or without mounting holes for some models (for self-installation)!
There are countertops measuring 800x600 with a stainless lining and mounting holes for a specific cutter model. There is a photo showing an example of a table top for Makita 2300 (2301).
The cost of the plate is 350x250x6 mm. for milling cutters:
stainless steel/metal/laser marking of ruler - 3500 rub.
There are also side parallel stops for them.
Full kits are available, which include:
table top,
plate for router, (circular)
- standard rip fence,
-parallel aluminum stop on the moving shaft
-metal underframe (bed) with brake wheel supports.
For those who like everything in one, there is a tabletop 800x1200 for installing a router and a circular saw in one tabletop, with one common rip fence. I'm also attaching a photo.
In addition, there are blanks for the base of tabletops 800x600x27 mm. for self-assembly in which all the necessary milling for the profile and window for the plate have already been made. The cost of such blanks starts from 3500 rubles.
