The first thing the owner should do is suburban area, be it a rural farmstead or just a vegetable garden, ensure water supply. It would be good if a centralized water supply system was built, but, alas, it is not available in every area. In such a situation, there is only one thing left to do - extract water from underground. Contrary to popular belief, this event is not always extremely costly, because the technology of drilling a well under water can easily be mastered by a self-taught person who is accustomed to doing everything on his own.
From 12 to 50 m
The middle depths are the kingdom of aquiferous sand. The water here is quite clean, but you won’t be able to get to it with just a shovel or a pointed pipe. Nevertheless, the desire to build a sand well on your own is quite feasible. You will need special equipment and deeper knowledge of the technology of drilling water wells with your own hands. It is sand wells that will be discussed further.
About drilling methods
Before you drill a water well with your own hands, you need to choose the type of drilling rig (there are three of them).
Shock-rope
A heavy load, called a chuck, as well as a special tool - a bailer - are suspended from the frame using a cable. From below, several strong triangular teeth are welded onto the cartridge, which weighs about 80 kg. By lifting it and dropping it, they loosen the soil, which is then removed with a bailer.
Before starting work, you need to make a shallow well using a garden drill. The chuck can be lifted manually, but it is better to use a rotary motor for this.
Applicable this method when working on light or clayey soil.
Auger
The working body of such an installation is similar to a garden auger, only very powerful. It is made from a 100 mm pipe onto which a couple of turns of a screw with a diameter of 200 mm are welded. To make one turn, a round sheet blank is used with a hole cut in its center with a diameter of just over 100 mm. A cut is made along the radius of the workpiece, then the edges at the site of this cut are separated in two opposite directions, perpendicular to the plane blanks.
As the drill sinks, the rod on which it is attached is increased. The tool is rotated manually using a long handle made from a pipe. Every 50 - 70 cm the drill will have to be removed, and since as it goes deeper it will have more and more weight, for this it will be necessary to install a tripod with a winch.
Rotary
For all its complexity this option is the most effective and versatile. Soil development is carried out using a drill bit attached to a constantly expanding pipe - a drill rod or column. Drill bits can have different designs, the choice of which depends on the type of soil being overcome at the moment.
Rotary drilling combines rotational and impact effects on the rock. In addition, the design of the drill column allows water or clay solution to be pumped into the well, which erode the soil and significantly speed up the advancement of the tool.
Where to drill
Before starting any work, the hydrogeological situation should be clarified. Best Source information – owners of surrounding plots, especially if they already have wells or have once tried to build them.
The second way is how to properly make a water well, or rather, choose a place for it - search for hydrogeological maps your area, which may be stored in design organizations or relevant departments.
If it was not possible to obtain a clear idea of the presence and nature of aquifers, you will have to take the most expensive step - order exploratory drilling. However, before that you can try one of traditional methods , for example, dowsing, which, according to some evidence, can indicate with acceptable accuracy the presence or absence of water underground.
When choosing a place for a well, you should beware of neighborhoods in the form of septic tanks, cesspools, landfills or livestock farms. If they are still nearby, then they should be at a distance of no closer than 30 m. Of course, the well should be located closer to the house. The optimal distance is 3 m.
Equipment
To drill a well on a site with your own hands, you need to prepare the following elements:
Read about what characteristics and advantages it has in our separate article.
There is a website for comparison of wells and boreholes. All the pros and cons of these water intake sources.
Let's start drilling
Let's give general instructions regarding how to equip a well at your dacha with your own hands:
- A square excavation is made in the ground with plan dimensions of 1.5 x 1.5 m and a depth of 1 to 2 m - the so-called pit. It is necessary to prevent loose surface soil from falling into the well. The inside of the pit is lined with plywood or boards, and on top of it for ease of carrying out installation work The plank flooring is being laid.
- After installing the installation, two coaxial holes are cut out in the upper and lower decks of the pit, after which they begin drilling.
- The drill rod is rotated using a gear motor or manually. At the same time, a support is placed on the bar, and one of the workers strikes it with a hammer. Alternative option: The drill is winched and dropped in a similar manner to cable percussion drilling. If necessary, water or drilling fluid is supplied to the rod.
- In parallel with drilling, a casing pipe with a special shoe installed below is installed into the well. Like the drill rod, it is gradually built up.
- After quicksand (soil with high moisture), drilling accelerates (the aquifer has begun), and then slows down again. This means that the waterproof layer has been reached and drilling can be stopped.
- A filter column is lowered into the well, after which it begins to be washed with strong water pressure.
- Lowers into the well submersible pump, which they begin to pump out water until it becomes absolutely clean
At the final stage of equipping a well at the dacha with your own hands, all cavities are filled with a sand-crushed stone mixture, and a pipeline is laid in a trench to the house.
Common Mistakes
The lack of experience of self-taught drillers most often manifests itself in the following:
- The drill is lowered too deep, causing the casing to cross the aquifer. Solution: lift the casing pipe or insert a new, shorter one into it, after which the previously installed pipe should be removed.
- The casing pipe did not reach the required depth, as a result of which the soil below collapsed and the productivity of the well dropped sharply. Solution: remove the soil with a bailer, then immerse the pipe to the required depth.
- The pump was installed too low, as a result of which the well became clogged with sand.
In the latter case, you should remove the pump and, having selected the sand with a bailer, install it correctly. The correct position is determined as follows: the operating pump is gradually lowered until sand is found in the pumped water. After this, the pump is raised slightly until the water it supplies becomes clean. (usually the correct position of the pump is 1-2 m from the bottom).
How to drill a well under water with your own hands and with the help of what equipment you can watch in the video.
What summer resident does not dream of good harvest? And what kind of harvest can there be without good watering? But here’s the problem: there is no running water, the river is far away – where can I get water? You can invite specialists with equipment. They will drill a well for you, and you will pay them a lot of money. There is another option: you can figure out how to plug a well yourself and enjoy the work done, the availability of water and the finances saved.
If you are more satisfied with the second option, let’s consider the issues that you need to know about to drill a well.
Aquifers
To better understand how aquifers are located in the thickness of the earth, let's imagine the earth cover in the form of a layer cake.
The first layer is fertile. Its thickness is approximately 1 m. Beneath it there are dense water-resistant layers, which mainly consist of clayey or subclayey rocks, very rarely stones. Waterproof layers are located at an angle to the horizon and have different thicknesses. As a result, cavities are formed in the thickness of the earth, similar in shape to lenses. They are filled with sand in which water accumulates. These are the aquifers. The area of such underground lakes can reach several square kilometers. The depth of their occurrence can be different, from 5 to 30 m. There can be two or three such layers in the thickness of the earth. The higher the aquifer is located, the less stable it is. In dry weather, they can dry out and refill after rain or melting snow.
From this we can conclude: if you need to constantly have water in the well, you need to break it at least to the second aquifer.
At a great depth of 30-50 m there is a rock layer. The purest artesian water is found there. Making a well to such a depth is only possible with the use of special drilling equipment.
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Choice
If the aquifer is located relatively close to the surface of the earth (from 5 to 15 m), then the choice can be made in favor of a well. Its construction is less expensive and labor-intensive than a well.
Well disadvantage:
- depending on the area, the first aquifer may dry out;
- the water of the “subcutaneous” layer is suitable only for irrigation and domestic needs;
- water must be constantly withdrawn, otherwise the well begins to silt;
- periodically it is necessary to disinfect and clean the well
If the aquifers are below 15 m, the choice clearly remains with the well.
Return to contents
Before considering drilling a well, it is necessary to understand its general structure. A well is a fairly deep hole in the ground from the surface to the aquifer. To prevent it from crumbling due to the settlement of the earth, it is lowered into it. Its diameter can be in the range of 50-300 mm.
Do you want your well to last longer? Then you need to use metal pipe. Due to the fact that the water is deep, the casing pipe must be long enough, therefore, as it goes down, it is extended with new sections using threaded connection or couplings.
Drilling a well is not a complicated process, but it is labor-intensive. It is better to do this work together.
You can plug a well with your own hands using the shock-rope method. To work, you will need to make a glass with which the soil will be excavated. It is a piece of pipe, on one side of which a loop is welded to which the cable will be attached, and on the other side it is necessary to make teeth and sharpen them (this procedure can be performed with a grinder).
The principle of operation is very simple: throw the glass down; falling, the teeth crash into the ground, which remains inside the glass. Use the cable to lift the glass to the surface and remove the soil. And so we repeat the procedure, slowly increasing the depth of the well.
It becomes obvious:
- that the glass should not be light;
- if you want to make a well large diameter(for example, for asbestos casing pipes), then you can weld a pipe of a smaller diameter on spacers inside the glass. It will roughly look like manual vegetable cutter for apples. Then the earth will not fall out of it during the lifting process.
To make it easier to lift a glass from the depths, you can use the most ancient invention of mankind - a simple block. To do this, you can build a tripod over the well from pipes. Attach a block to its top, and install a gate between the two posts. These simple devices will make the work much easier. All that remains is to wind the cable around the gate, pass the free end through the block and secure it to the glass - and you can start drilling.
Installation of the casing can be carried out after drilling the well. In this case, difficulties may arise with collapses of the well walls during the process of driving it. In this case, the glass must be selected with a diameter larger than that of the casing pipe.
It is better to install the casing as the well deepens.
In this case, the diameter of the glass must be chosen so that it slides freely along the pipe. By the way, it will also act as a guide during drilling. Conclusion: the height of the tripod should be such that the new part of the casing pipe fits freely under it.
To ensure the lowering of the casing, during the process of deepening the well, you need to make removable handles and a stop. They will be installed at the top of the casing. Their purpose: firstly, it will be possible to hang the load; secondly, using them to rotate the pipe around its axis, achieve its smooth immersion into the well.
Central water supply is a privilege for residents of urban centers. Even on the outskirts of a metropolis it is difficult to connect to communications. Or need to spend a considerable amount for laying pipes, or access to the benefits of civilization is physically inaccessible due to the distance of utility networks.
There is nothing to say about isolated villages. The only way to get water is to drill your own well. The main thing is to find suitable place. We will tell you the details about this important process and provide visual diagrams and show a thematic video.
We represent the people, and therefore very effective ways searching for water in the area.
Method 1. Ordinary clay unglazed pot with capacity 1-1,5 liters is filled with a mixture of jari (a type of paint based on copper acetate), white incense (tree resin), sulfur and sheep wool in proportions 4:4:4:5 .
Pot hermetically sealed and weighed. It needs to be buried in the proposed location of drilling a well to a depth 30-35 cm. After a day, the container is again sent to the scales and, if the mass of the pot has increased, then the water is nearby.
Instead of old recipe for absorbent composition can be used silica gel.
Method 2. If there are no water sources nearby, you need to observe the chosen location for the well. Evening fog above the “destination” indicates that there is water here. Than fog thicker- those closer water.
Method 3 will give a result close to 100 % . Can be drilled manually with a garden drill to depth 5-10 meters. If the presence of water in the well is obvious, all that remains is to complete the deepening work.
The more water, the more likely it is to build a well rather than a well. The nominal drilling depth is 10-15 m. The location for the well must be chosen no closer than 30 m from contaminated areas. It could also be artesian well, that is, an underground pressure source.
Manual drilling uses shock-rope and rotary methods or Abyssinian well. The simplest thing is rotary drilling. Required Tools and materials:
Drill rods.
Winch.
Drill tower.
Casing pipes.
Winch on the tower the drill with rods (drill string) is lifted and removed from the well. If the water is shallow, you can remove the drill manually using a block on a winch. Also, instead of a winch, you can build a regular gate (like on wells). The drilling tower is made in the form of a tripod from scrap materials.
Drilling rods- these are pipes with a threaded or keyed connection. A drill is attached to the lower rod. Types of drills: spiral or spoon.
Spoon drill (spoon drill)
Spoon drill(spoon drill) - a metal cylinder with a spiral or longitudinal thread. Its axis is eccentric relative to the center of the rod. That is, the axis of rotation of the rod and the lower drill must coincide, but for the “spoon” it is shifted by 10-15 millimeters.
Thus, the tool makes a hole with a diameter greater than its own. This allows the drill to move freely in the casing pipes, which can be lowered directly during the deepening process.
Length Borax-spoons - 700 mm, the diameter is selected according to the dimensions of the well.
On video an example is given self-made tool:
Homemade spoon drill made from ordinary thick-walled pipe with hardening. It can be used for drilling in wet sand, loam, black soil, alumina, and so on.
Spiral type drill (snake)
Boer spiral type (coil drill) is made from a twisted metal strip of tool steel and resembles a drill. The lower end of the tool is equipped cutting edge, the pitch of its spiral is equal to the diameter. Can be used for drilling in clay and clay soils with gravel filling.
Drilling process
To delete liquid mud from the well they use bailer. Its valve closes when rising and retains the “silt”.
Above the future well tower is being installed height longer rods. At the first stage, the drill string includes one rod and a drill. After every 600-700 mm column needs to be removed and cleared of soil. As it moves, the length of the drill string increases by attaching an additional rod.
Such necessary operations, How column lifting, disassembling the rod, her assembly and return descent take a lot of time. Therefore, it is necessary to capture with a drill maximum quantity soil. If drilling is carried out in loose soil, it will fall down from the walls of the well. Therefore, one should lower oneself into the “well” casing, but not to the very bottom, but at a distance 0,5-1 meter from it.
The video shows the process in detail mechanized well drilling:
As the casing goes deeper, it lowers even lower. Drilling continues until the waterproof layer. It is necessary to completely penetrate the aquifer so that water enters the well in maximum volume(this point is presented very clearly in video at the end of the article).
Drops to the bottom of the well fine metal mesh filter. The lower part of the casing pipes, in the walls of which holes are drilled, also serves as a filter. Before installing the filter at the bottom of the well, you need to fill 30-50 centimeters of coarse sand or fine gravel. Water is supplied to the house through a pipeline using pump, so it is necessary to install cables and metal-plastic pipes.
Drill a well deep more than 20 meters manually it will be very difficult.
Any ready A well-maintained water well will last for decades. Service is checking fasteners, lubrication and adjustment of pump parts, electrical work and so on. Typically, the “technical inspection” takes place on site, without requiring dismantling of the equipment.
It is also necessary to carry out well insulation, or rather its upper part.
Materials such as polystyrene (foam), mineral or glass wool are best used if groundwater is located close, as well as when the soil is deeply frozen.
It is advisable to make the insulation layer thick 35-50 centimeters.
How to analyze water quality
Drinking water is standardized according to the standards of the World Health Organization ( WHO). You can familiarize yourself with them in the “Guide to Drinking Water Quality”.
Water purification from a well is carried out in special laboratories after determining the presence of impurities as a percentage. The analysis must be carried out regularly, since the composition may change due to seasonal and even daily fluctuations. Based on the results obtained, the water well is cleaned in the most appropriate way.
Well water purification
Universal well water purification system - reverse osmosis. Several types of impurities are removed at once, ensuring high quality liquids. Therefore, to completely get rid of iron, humic compounds, viruses and bacteria, only this system can be used.
After laboratory tests you need to contact specialists who will select the most effective cleaning system.
There are such types water filters:
Jug type. Contains activated carbon, which partially reduces the amount of pollutants in water. "Jug" can't delete a large number of inorganic, organic impurities and bacteria. The water is filtered slowly. After a month you need to change the cartridge.
Carbonic. Contains activated carbon, which effectively removes chlorine from water. Due to a possible interruption in the water supply, the cartridge often becomes clogged, so the composition of the water can become doubly toxic. Does not reduce the number of bacteria, viruses and inorganic impurities.
Ceramic. Helps purify water only from “garbage” of large fractions. Organic and inorganic substances, viruses and bacteria are not retained. In addition, the filter quickly becomes clogged with dirt. Therefore, it requires frequent cleaning and disinfection.
With reverse osmosis. Significantly reduces the content of harmful and toxic impurities in water. Mechanical barriers and a membrane purify the liquid almost perfectly, but useful minerals are lost and a distillation effect occurs. Therefore, you need to connect a mineralizer to the filter. Does not destroy bacteria and viruses.
Coagulation method. When coagulants are added, the water is divided into 3 layer. Light impurities collect in the upper one, and toxins in the form of sediment collect in the lower one. The middle layer is drinkable. Requires special equipment. At home, the process is dangerous, since toxic substances from other layers can enter the water.
At the end of the material, we suggest you look video, which shows the drilling work:
This type of well is common in the north of our country in private households. In another way, a driving well is called an “Abyssinian well.” It became widespread mainly due to the desire of each family to have its own source. drinking water, whereas previously everyone was content with the general.
General information
Today, water is vital for every private farmstead - for a residential building, watering a garden, a bathhouse, and also simply for a reserve of life-giving moisture. Usually one well is made in the yard, but in this case two are possible.
Such a tube well is interesting because it can be made in almost one day if you prepare everything necessary materials. The price of the construction is low, and the process is as simple as possible, so if you have a good aquifer on your site, this option will be the best for organizing a private water supply. How to plug a well into water will be discussed in detail below in the article.
When you have decided to organize an “Abyssinian well”, everything is possible preparatory work spend leisurely winter. It would also be good to find out in advance from your neighbors the depth at which the water surface in the well is located, and look at their decks.
Process
Below are instructions on how to plug a well with your own hands:
- Buy 15 m of pipe, preferably stainless Ø 3/4″ or Ø 1″.
- Make your own or order the components of the structure:
- intake filter- most important element, which is made from the same pipe or from a pipe of a larger diameter. The length of the intake is approximately aquifer, for a good core, 500 mm is enough, maximum – 1500 mm;
- intake cone order a turner, and then weld it to the intake pipe or attach it to the thread.
- Prepare a P52 stainless mesh; it is not recommended to use non-ferrous metals, but it all depends on chemical composition water.
- Drill numerous Ø 8-10 mm holes in the pipe along its entire length, staggering them, then wrap it with mesh and solder it along the edge using tin solder. You can also attach it to stainless steel screws with a large head. To do this, you need to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 mm in the pipe along its entire length.
Advice: do not wrap the mesh with wire, this will do practically nothing.
- Cut the extension pipes into pieces of 1.5-2 m, which depends on the soil on the site. If it is loose and the pipes fit into it well, make them longer.
- Prepare couplings made of steel, for pipes - half a coupling. Place the couplings on linen with paint; FUM tape is not suitable.
- Use a regular fishing drill for drilling, the handle of which needs to be remade. This consists in the possibility of attaching additional elbows; you should also change the rotary to a T-shaped handle. Remove the drill from the hole by hand, preferably with two people, when going up to 6 m. Stop drilling when signs of quicksand appear.
- Lower the pipe with the intake into the well and hammer it with a wooden mallet, preferably a birch one. Use a stepladder when the end of the pipe is too high. Drive the intake into the water horizon with even strokes. Check for its appearance by pouring water into the pipe; when it goes away without delay, it means you are already in the aquifer.
- Take a hand pump, attach a rubber hose to it and start pumping out water. This will be especially easy to do when the water surface is located at a depth of 4-6 m.
- Examine the water for clarity and taste, as well as soapiness, let it settle and boil. Good water it will be clean, tasty, will not form a film when standing and will not produce sediment. It is better, of course, to take it to a laboratory for chemical analysis.
If you don't like the water, continue plugging the pipes further. At the same time, do not forget to control the depth and periodically check the presence of an aquifer by pouring water.
When you find water in lower layers, the water mirror will align with the first water horizon, and the selection itself will come from the 2-3 level. In this way, you can drive a well to almost 14-15 m, but beyond that it will be almost impossible.
When the water surface has established itself at a level of 9 m from the surface, in order to reach it, you can dig a pit to a depth of two to three meters. You will have a pit that will prevent the well from freezing in winter if it is insulated.
Making a shallow well with your own hands is a completely feasible undertaking, despite the apparent scale of the process. The springs, 12-15 meters deep, are ordinary wells that were always dug independently. But even deeper structures can be penetrated without special equipment and titanic efforts. The consultants of the Plumber Portal website know several ways to drill a water well with your own hands without using special equipment.
Types of well structures
Before considering how to drill a water well with your own hands, you need to understand what types they can be. Water can be extracted using different technologies.
The main types of well structures for water production:
- If you have a good spring, you can build an excellent well, which will fill quickly, being a good reservoir that can accommodate up to 2 cubic meters life-giving moisture. The depth reaches 15 meters. Above this boundary there is often such a phenomenon as “overflow” - an aquifer with high level pollutants that come from the soil surface. It is not recommended to consume water from this layer.
- A sand filter well, which is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, immersed with an auger to a depth of 17-30 meters. At the end of the pipe, which is recessed, a stainless steel mesh is fixed, which plays the role of a filter immersed in coarse sand. The depth of the well is on average from 20 to 30 meters, the service life is from 5 to 15 years.
- A filterless artesian well, its operating principle is that it extracts water from layers of porous limestone. An artesian well can be drilled to a depth of 20-100 meters, and its service life reaches 50 years.
The exact depth of the water source cannot be determined in advance. The approximate depth will be the same dimensions as in similar wells drilled in neighboring areas or in a nearby well. Slight deviations are possible due to uneven occurrence of soil layers. It is recommended to purchase casing pipes, taking into account the parameters of nearby water supply sources, but making minor adjustments.
Now let’s take a closer look at drilling water wells with our own hands, taking into account the type of source.
Abyssinian well drilling technology
Abyssinian well This type of well is quite simple to set up and can be drilled manually without using special tools, while the principle of its operation is also very accessible. A needle well is a type of water intake that can be equipped even without work experience and purchasing materials in just a day. This is the most simple design water wells.
You will need:
- Metal thick wall pipes. The diameter is taken based on the diameter and type of pump planned to be used. The total length is equal to the depth of the face.
- The filter winding requires a metal or PVC mesh.
- Drill and drill bits with a diameter of 5-7 mm.
- A welding machine, if you plan to connect pipes by welding, or dies and taps for threading. Or you can purchase pipes with a ready-made threaded connection.
It must be taken into account that the lower part of the casing is a drill, and before starting work, a filter must be installed on the lower end of the pipe above the tip. The length of the filter part can reach 75-85 cm. Holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the entire circumference of the pipe at an angle of 45°, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
The top of the perforated pipe is wrapped with fine-mesh steel mesh or plastic mesh. The mesh must be secured to the pipe using any in a convenient way: clamps, steel wire, which must be soldered to the mesh and pipe. The stages of filter formation are carried out by the projectile through the first meter of soil, as in the diagram.
With the help building level the verticality of the entry into the ground is checked: the slightest deviation at the beginning of manual drilling of a well leads to the fact that in subsequent stages of work, in particular, the impossibility of installing parts of the casing at depth. Everything will have to be redone.
An Abyssinian well can be built using manual hydraulic drilling or, to speed up the process, it can be automated. To do this, you need to connect the drill tip to the drill rod, which is connected to the electric motor. During operation, the rods are extended by attaching new parts of the casing pipe.
Manual well drilling
Most often, summer residents are interested in how to drill a well with their own hands, and not just a well. It will be necessary to have such equipment for drilling wells as drill, drilling rig, winch, rods and casing. A drilling tower is needed to dig a deep well; it is used to immerse and lift a drill with rods.
Rotary method
The simplest method of constructing a water well is rotary, carried out by rotating a drill.
Hydrodrilling of shallow water wells can be done without a tower, and the drill string can be removed manually. Drill rods are made from pipes, connecting them together using keys or threads.
The bar, which will be located below all, is additionally equipped with a drill. The cutting attachments are made of 3 mm sheet steel. When sharpening the cutting edges of the nozzle, it must be taken into account that at the moment the drill mechanism rotates, they must cut into the soil clockwise.
The derrick is mounted above the drilling site; it should be higher than the drill rod in order to facilitate the removal of the rod during lifting. After this, a guide recess for the drill is dug to a depth of approximately two shovel bayonets.
It is quite possible to do the first turns of rotation of the drill yourself, but with greater immersion of the pipe, additional forces will be required. If the drill cannot be pulled out the first time, you need to turn it counterclockwise and try to pull it out again.
The deeper the drill goes, the more difficult the movement of the pipes becomes. To make this task easier, the soil must be softened by pouring water. When moving the drill down every 50 cm, the drilling structure must be removed to the surface and cleared of soil. The drilling cycle is repeated again. When the tool handle reaches ground level, the structure is extended with an additional elbow.
As the drill goes deeper, it becomes more difficult to rotate the pipe. Softening the soil with water will help make the work easier. As the drill moves downwards, every half a meter the drilling structure should be brought to the surface and freed from the soil. The drilling cycle is repeated again. At the stage when the tool handle is level with the ground, the structure is extended with an additional elbow.
Since lifting and cleaning the drill takes up most of the time, you need to make the most of the design's capabilities, capturing and lifting up as much of the soil as possible. This is the operating principle of this installation.
Drilling continues until the aquifer is reached; it can be easily determined by the condition of the soil being removed. Having passed the aquifer, the drill should be immersed a little deeper until it reaches the layer that is located below the aquifer, aquifer. Reaching this layer will make it possible to ensure maximum water flow into the well.
It is worth noting that manual drilling can only be used for immersion to the nearest aquifer; it usually lies at a depth not exceeding 10-20 meters.
In order to pump out dirty liquid, you can use hand pump or a submersible pump. After two or three buckets have been pumped out dirty water The aquifer is usually cleaned and clean water appears. If this does not happen, the well needs to be deepened by about another 1-2 meters.
Screw method
An auger rig is often used for drilling. The working part of this installation is very similar to a garden auger, only much more powerful. It is made from a 100 mm pipe with a pair of screw turns welded onto it with a diameter of 200 mm. In order to make one such turn, you need a round sheet blank with a hole cut in its center, the diameter of which is slightly larger than 100 mm.
Then a cut is made along the radius of the workpiece, after which, at the place of the cut, the edges are moved apart in two different directions, which are perpendicular to the plane of the workpiece. As the drill sinks deeper, the rod on which it is attached is increased. The tool is rotated manually using a long handle made of pipe.
The drill must be removed approximately every 50-70 cm, and due to the fact that the deeper it goes, it will become heavier, so you will need to install a tripod with a winch. Thus, you can drill a water well in a private house a little deeper than using the above methods.
You can also use the manual drilling method, which is based on the use of conventional drill and hydraulic pumps:
Features of cable percussion drilling technology
The essence of this method is to break the rock using a driving glass - a heavy tool that falls from the height of a specially equipped tower. To complete the work, you will need a homemade drilling derrick, in addition to tools for using the shock-rope method and extracting soil from the well. This technology is used for work on light or clay soil.
A well tower looks like an ordinary tripod and can be made from either steel pipes or simple wooden logs. The dimensions of the structure must proportionally correspond to the dimensions of the downhole tool. The optimal size ratio is the height of the tower, which is one and a half meters longer than the length of the downhole glass.
The working process consists of alternately lowering the driving glass, breaking and capturing the rock, and then raising the captured dump to the surface. In order to equip such a drilling rig, you can use a steel pipe, the end of which is equipped with a cutting device. The cutting edge, externally resembling half a turn of an auger, will be in direct contact with the bottom.
50 cm from the edge in steel pipe it is necessary to make a hole through which the extracted soil can be removed, thus emptying the drill bit. A cable is attached to the top of the glass, which helps lower the glass and remove its contents to the surface. It is recommended to free the glass from soil according to the depth of the structure for every 50 cm.
Step-by-step instructions for drilling a well on the site
Before starting work on a summer cottage, it is recommended to ask your neighbors what the water level is in your area, after which you can drill a well on the site. If there are wells nearby, look into them. If the water level is above 5 meters, this is good sign, since in this case, the only tools required for drilling will be a garden auger and an approximate diagram of the location of the water source.
A small-sized drilling rig or a mechanical drilling device - a “handbrake” - can be rented. This way you will be able to use convenient equipment, without overpaying an extra amount to get water on the site.
Let's describe the general instructions of the site, a site of relative technology, on how to make a water well with your own hands in the country:
- It is necessary to make a square excavation in the ground with dimensions of 1.5 × 1.5 m and a depth of 1 to 2 meters; this will be the so-called pit. It is needed to prevent the loose surface of the soil from falling into the well. The inside of the pit must be lined with boards or plywood, and a boardwalk is laid on top of it for ease of installation.
- After the installation is assembled, two coaxial holes are cut in the upper and lower decks of the pit, after which drilling begins.
- The drill rod is rotated manually or using a gear motor. At the same time, a support is placed on the bar, on which one of the workers will strike with a hammer. Another option: the drill is lifted using a winch and dropped in the same way as is done with percussion-rope drilling. If necessary, water or drilling fluid is supplied to the rod.
- In parallel with drilling, a casing pipe with a special shoe installed below is installed into the well. It is also gradually built up, just like the drill rod.
- After quicksand (soil with high humidity) drilling accelerates (due to the beginning of the aquifer), and then slows down again. This is a sign that the drill has reached the waterproof layer and drilling can be completed.
- It is necessary to lower the filter column into the well, after which you can begin washing it with strong water pressure.
- You need to lower a submersible pump into the well to pump out water until it becomes crystal clear.
At the last stage of constructing a well at the dacha with your own hands, a caisson is installed, all cavities must be filled with a sand-crushed stone mixture, and a pipeline is laid in a trench to the house. In this case, it is highly not recommended to lower the water pipe to the very bottom. It should not reach the extreme point of about 50 cm, thus ensuring better flow of water upward.
The pipe leading into the well must be equipped with ventilation holes, otherwise, without air access, the water will quickly dry out and extracting it will become impractical for most needs. For permanent access to the well, a hinged cover can be equipped on the pipe.
Advice! After a manually made well has been put into operation, be sure to submit the water obtained from it for examination. Water can be considered drinking water if it has the following characteristics: transparency of at least 30 cm, nitrate content - no more than 10 mg/l, 1 liter contains no more than 10 E. coli, maximum odor and taste rating - 3 points.
Do I need to install casing pipes?
After you have managed to drill a well for water, you need to equip additional casing, which can be made from either a solid asbestos-cement pipe or individual sections of asbestos pipes.
While working with cuts special attention should be given an equal diameter of the pipes in order to ensure further unhindered immersion of the entire structure. Each pipe link is held in place by clamps, which are then hidden under stainless steel strips.
Pipe casing is needed:
- to prevent wall shedding during drilling;
- to prevent clogging of the well during operation;
- to cover the upper aquifers with poor water.
A pipe equipped with a filter is lowered to the bottom of the well, which is made of a fine mesh that does not allow grains of sand to pass through and ensures water filtration. The pipe is lowered to the required depth and secured with a clamp. This will prevent spontaneous subsidence. When properly constructing a water well, the ground part is equipped with a caisson - a cap that protects the source from contamination.
Over time, a slight “squeezing” of the pipe from the ground may occur. This is a natural process of spontaneous lifting of the pipe to the ground surface, and does not require additional measures by depth.
How to avoid mistakes when drilling?
The lack of experience among self-taught drillers is most often visible in the following:
- The drill is lowered too deep, causing the casing to cross the aquifer. Solution: lift the casing pipe or insert another shorter one into it, after which the previously installed pipe must be removed.
- The casing pipe did not reach the required depth, which caused the soil below to collapse and the well's productivity immediately dropped. Solution: you need to remove the soil with a bailer, then immerse the pipe to the required depth.
- The pump was mounted too low, causing the well to become clogged with sand. Solution: the pump must be removed and, using a bailer, selected sand, installed correctly. The correct position is determined as follows: the operating pump is lowered gradually until sand is found in the water it pumps out. After which the pump is raised slightly until it begins to pump clean water. As a rule, the correct position of the pump is 1-2 meters from the bottom.
Timely cleaning is necessary for wells of all types. Signs that a water structure needs service can be: presence in the stream air jams, jerks in the water outlet, the presence of various impurities in the water (sand, silt).
If you miss the moment of cleaning, the productivity of the well may no longer be restored. To restore normal operation, purge with water or air compressor. The most radical cleaning methods are using electricity or acid. However, these methods are quite risky and are best left to specialists.
Thus, a DIY home well requires the same attention to care and maintenance as deep artesian structures. Drilling a water source yourself is not difficult, but you need to be careful during the work and call a couple of friends for help.
Do-it-yourself shallow well, how to drill one video:
