Scheffler's description of the plant. Schefflera - your unpretentious home evergreen tree

1. Growing temperature: throughout the year, fairly cool conditions at a temperature of 16 - 18 degrees Celsius are suitable for shefflera.
2. Lighting: Brightly lit location with shade from direct sun.
3. Watering and air humidity: in spring and summer, dry the soil 2 - 3 centimeters deep before each subsequent watering; in winter, simply protect the earthen ball from drying out completely if the plant is in a cool place. Air humidity is quite high.
4. Trimming: Regular pruning and pinching of the tips of young shoots to form a compact and bushy plant.
5. Priming: a well-drained and nutritious substrate that easily allows moisture and air to pass to the roots of the flower.
6. Top dressing: from spring to autumn, feed monthly mineral fertilizers for decorative foliage plants.
7. Reproduction: rooting of stem and leaf cuttings, rarely by seeds.

Botanical name: Schefflera.

Schefflera domestica - family. Araliaceae.

Homeland of the plant. Australia and Oceania.

What it looks like. The genus consists of approximately 900 evergreen shrubs, vines or low trees. Majority indoor plants It is a shrub with erect stems. With age stems become lignified and covered with light brown bark.

Complex leaves Schefflers have very long petioles and are arranged alternately on the stems. The leaves consist of oblong-oval segments arranged in a circle, the number of segments varies from 5 to 14. In green-leaved species, the leaves are solid green; variegated varieties are distinguished by the presence of white or yellow spots on the leaves.

In nature, shefflera is thrown away flower stalks, bearing many small, often reddish flowers. After flowering, the plant forms rounded berries.

Height. In its natural environment, the Schefflera flower takes on impressive sizes and can reach 14 m. in height. In indoor conditions, plants are pruned or low varieties are grown.

The size of plants at home is also affected by the volume of the pot - in cramped containers, plant development slows down.

2. Schefflera care at home

2.1.Reproduction, growing from a leaf

Schefflera breeds stem cuttings under a cover made of transparent plastic or glass using growth hormones.

Rooting is quite easy, sometimes even in a simple glass of water in spring and summer. It is worth adding a small amount of crushed charcoal to the water for rooting.

It is advisable to treat the bases of the cuttings with growth hormones and cover the young plants with a transparent plastic cap or a simple plastic bag to maintain uniform humidity.

2.2.Transplant

Young plants are planted annually into fresh soil and a larger pot, adults - transplant every 2 - 3 years.

For tuber bushes, the replanting of which is difficult, change top layer mixtures onto fresh soil annually.

The plant should be given a fairly spacious pot to increase the feeding area.

2.3.When it blooms

At home, flowering occurs very rarely. In nature, plants bloom during the summer months.

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2.4.How to care for shefflera, pruning

The plant is very popular in culture due to its spectacular appearance and ease of cultivation.

Wipe from time to time leaves plants with a damp sponge to remove dust.

Trim the Schefflera in the fall to maintain a compact shape. The plant responds to pruning by the appearance of a large number of side shoots, which allows it to form a thick and lush crown.

Pinch apical buds of young plants to form a dense crown.

Provide long stems support for growth.

Periodically turn the pot with the shefflera on different sides facing the light source so that the plant develops symmetrically.

2.5.Diseases and pests

  • Yellowing and abscission leaves may be caused by stagnation of moisture at the roots.
  • With periodic flooding, the plant becomes sluggish and this behavior encourages novice gardeners to water, which further aggravates the situation.Unfortunately, this situation often leads to the death of the sheffler.
  • When there is a lack of light, plants become elongated.
  • As the plant ages, it may lose lower leaves and expose the stems - such plants should be subjected to radical anti-aging pruning.
  • Lack of moisture causes the plant drop leaves.
  • The leaves are getting smaller and fade due to lack of nutrients.
  • If there are cold drafts in the room or placed near heating devices, plants may lose leaves.

Among the harmful insects that can attack the flower are mealybugs, aphids and red spider mites, and scale insects.

Insects - pests

Insect name Signs of infection Control measures
Mealybug The surface of the leaves and shoots is covered with a fluffy, cotton-like white coating. Plants lag behind in development Folk remedies: spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Infusions of tobacco, garlic, cyclamen tubers, alcohol treatments, and pharmacy tincture of calendula have worked well. Chemicals : green soap solution, Actellik, Fitoverm.
Spider mite Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down. Traditional methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemicals based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik.
Aphid Sticky droplets appear on the leaf blades, the leaf blades curl and become deformed, tender buds and young leaves wither. Colonies of insects can be seen on the tips of shoots, buds or the underside of leaf blades. The flowers of plants affected by aphids may become deformed. Traditional methods: infusion of nettle, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, infusion of tobacco and dandelion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, dusting with virgin ash. Chemicals: Sulfur powders, treatment of green mass with green potassium soap without getting into the ground, Decis, Actellik, Fitoverm.
Scale insect and false scale insect Sticky droplets on the leaves, small yellow spots on the surface of the leaf blades. When scale insects become widespread, they cause leaves to dry out and fall off. Flowers slow down their development Folk methods of struggle. Spraying with soap and alcohol solution. Scale insect larvae do not like garlic infusion; they also use pyrethrum-based products. Chemicals. Fitoverm, Aktellik, Fufanon.

2.6.Soil

Loose nutrient soil with good drainage.

A mixture will do garden soil with leaf humus, peat, with the addition of a small amount of coarse river sand and crushed charcoal.

2.7.Watering

The frequency of watering will depend on the ambient temperature.

When kept in a room with a temperature above 20° C, maintain the soil evenly moist, but not swampy. At a temperature of about 16 ° C - dry the top layer of soil with a thickness of about 3 cm. between waterings.

A few minutes after watering, excess moisture from the pan should be drained.

2.8.Fertilizers for shefflera

Spring and summer feed liquid fertilizers monthly. In autumn and winter, plants are given rest and feeding is stopped.

2.9.Lighting

A brightly lit area with plenty of reflected sunlight, but without access to direct rays.

Plants also develop well in partial shade, but they can react to a lack of light by yellowing and dropping leaves.

2.10.Temperature

She prefers Schefflera at home cool conditions and does not like extreme heat.

Throughout the year, it is advisable to keep plants at a temperature 16 - 18 °C. At higher room temperatures, the frequency of watering and air humidity should be increased.

During the winter months Not expose plants to temperature below 10°C.

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2.11.Spraying

Increase humidity with tray with wet pebbles or room humidifier, and also surrounding the pot with a layer wet sphagnum moss.

Spray The plant can be washed in the morning with water at room temperature.

Schefflera can be kept indoors without additional moisture, but will look healthier when high humidity air.

2.12.Purpose

Suitable for landscaping spacious and bright rooms.

2.13.
Note

All above-ground parts of the plant poisonous– be careful when handling schefflera and keep children and pets away from the plant.

This species will grow indoors with proper care within many years.

2.14.Hydroponics

Grows well in hydroponics.

3.Varieties:

3.1.Schefflera "Gerda" - Schefflera arboricola "Gerda"

A beautiful variety of tree-like schefflera with variegated, glossy leaves, colored in the center of the leaf blade in greenish, yellow or white, and along the edges of the leaves - in a green tint. The plant can reach a height of 2.5 - 3 m, so it needs periodic corrective pruning.

3.2.Schefflera arboricola "Janine"

A low tree-like variegated Schefflera, forming a very lush bush. The leaves are divided into 5 - 7 glossy, oblong-oval, entire-edged segments - fingers, colored in shades of green, white or yellowish. The main distinguishing feature of this variety is that many segments have a solid white, greenish or yellow color.

3.3.Schefflera "Nora"

An aerial variety of tree-like shefflera, characterized by its compact size. The leaves are uniform - green, glossy, divided into 5 - 7 very thin, oval fingers. Sometimes on sale you can find plants of this variety with beautifully braided trunks.

3.4. Schefflera "Melanie" - Schefflera "Melanie"

A variegated variant of the tree-like Schefflera, about 50 cm high, with very attractive compound, palmate leaves. The main shade of the leaves is light green or yellowish; standard green may be present only on some fingers or along the edges of the leaf blades in the form of a thin strip.

3.5.Schefflera elegantissima "Bianca"

Schefflera graceful is also called dizygotheca. A valuable ornamental foliage plant with tall, erect, often branched shoots at the base and complex leaves divided into “fingers.” This variety has very long fingers, and the edges of the leaf blades have large teeth. The leaves are dark green with a thin white border along the edges. The central vein is also highlighted in a light shade. Overall, the plant has a delicate, airy appearance.

3.6. Schefflera "Louisiana" - Schefflera "Louisiana"

Variety of tree-like schefflera. The plants are tall - they can reach a height of 70 to 150 cm. The stems are erect, abundantly branched, become woody with age and are covered with light brown bark. The leaves are compound, palmate, green, glossy. The fingers are oblong-lanceolate, thin, giving the entire appearance of the plant an openwork appearance.

3.7. Schefflera actinophylla

In its natural environment, this species often grows as an epiphyte on other trees, although it reaches impressive sizes - up to 12 m in height. It has erect, branched shoots that become woody with age and become covered with smooth greenish-brown bark. The leaves are compound - consist of 7 - 16 fingers, with drooping long, dark green, glossy fingers, reaching a diameter of 60 cm. Often the edges of the leaf blades are slightly corrugated. In nature, this species has the most gorgeous flowering - large inflorescences with many small pinkish flowers are formed at the tops of the shoots.

3.8. Schefflera "Amate" - Schefflera "Amate"

Schefflera variety, tall plant, easily reaching 2 m in height even in room conditions. The leaves are compound, consisting of dark green, glossy, relatively wide fingers. It differs in that even mature plants do not expose the lower part of the trunk, in addition, leaf fall does not occur even in low light conditions.

3.9.Schefflera “Gold Capella” - Schefflera “Gold Capella”

A variegated version of the tree-like schefflera. Evergreens perennials up to 3 m high with dark green palmate leaves. The stems are thick, erect, and become covered with smooth greenish bark with age. Plants with intertwined trunks are often found on sale. A striking varietal feature is the presence of yellow spots of various shapes and sizes on the leaves of plants.


In the interior of official institutions - hospitals, reception rooms, offices - you can often see a plant with the original name “umbrella tree”. Sheffler fell in love, the care of which is reduced to a minimum of activities, and the owners indoor gardens. A tree or bush with a lush crown formed by large leaves that look like palms with spread fingers is equally decorative in winter and summer. When grown indoors, a blooming schefflera is a rarity, but it is beautiful even without buds, the attractiveness of which is questionable for many: when open, they resemble tentacles.

Types and varieties

The culture leads its way to the home garden from the tropical rainforests of the Australian continent, Southeast Asia and the Pacific Islands. Its closest relatives are representatives of the Araliaceae family: ivy, eleutherococcus, ginseng. Wild species of Schefflera, of which there are about 200 known, are diverse. They are distinguished from each other by the size, shape, length and color of the leaves. Among them there are vines, shrubs, and huge (up to 20 m tall) trees. About 10 cultivated forms of the flower are grown at home.

Most often, indoor gardens are decorated with the following types of shefflers.

  • Eight-leaved (Schefflera octophylla). Its leaves are shiny, leathery, elongated, lanceolate. They become pointed towards the top and have a rounded base. Because of their shape, this shefflera is popularly called the octopus tree. The leaves are rough to the touch. They reach 30-40 cm in length and 10 cm in width. The petioles are long, strongly drooping, and milky-cream in color. From 6 to 12 leaves are attached to each. While they are young, their color is olive green with a bottle yellow tint. Over time, they turn a rich malachite shade, against which the paler veins become clearly visible. The bottom of the leaf blade is matte, its color is dull, pale green.
  • Palmate (Schefflera digitata). Also known as Aralia schefflera. Found naturally in New Zealand. This is a tall (up to 3-6 m) tree, the shape of its leaves resembles a palm tree. Each of them is divided into 7-10 plates, the length of which is 15-35 cm. The leaves have the shape of a highly elongated oval, pointed at the base and at the top. They are wide - up to 6 cm. Their surface is glossy, leathery, like parchment. The edges of young leaves are feathery, and as they grow, sparse teeth appear on them. They are located on a long (up to 20 cm) tube-shaped petiole. Blooming palmate schefflera produces umbrella inflorescences consisting of 4-8 buds. They are very small. When open, the diameter of the flower is about 0.6 cm. There are also variegated types of this shefflera.
  • Tree-like (Schefflera arboricola). The trunk of the plant is erect and branched. The color of the shoots depends on their age. While they are young, it is green. Adult shoots acquire a light brown tint. The tree-like variety of Schefflera is distinguished by the shape of its leaves: they are imparipinnate. They reach a length of 20 cm. Gold Capella varieties (with juicy green leaves covered with small yellow spots), Gerda (with colorful lime-green leaves resembling open rosettes), Amate (having increased resistance to diseases and pests and lush green leaves). The tree-like Schefflera in the home garden can grow up to 1.2 m in height.
  • Radiant leaf (Schefflera actinophylla). Its second name is star-leaved. It is most often grown at home. Its trunk is dusty brown, powerful, straight, noticeably thickened at the base. The leaves are divided into 14-16 lobes. At first they are ovoid, then they become oval-elongated, pointed towards the apex. Their average length is 15 cm, width is 5 cm. They are slightly wavy at the edges, attached to long petioles of a red-brown hue. The color of the leaves depends on the plant variety. In some species they are shiny and rich green, in others they are mustard (Green Gold) or olive-yellow, jagged, similar to oak (Nova). In the middle part, the lobes are wide; their edges may even touch neighboring ones. The veins on the leaves are lighter in color and are clearly visible. An indoor flower can reach a height of 3 m.

All types of shefflera are unpretentious. Caring for them will not seem difficult even for inexperienced gardeners.


Lighting and temperature

Schefflera needs a lot of light. Optimal place for her - a window sill located on the east or west side of the house. A plant with monochromatic leaves will also be comfortable on northern windows. If they are covered with fancy patterns of white and yellow(Gerda, Hong Kong, Gold Capella, Sofia, Janine), due to insufficient lighting, the patterns on them will fade here.

The southern windows of the Schefflere are not suitable. The flower will be too hot and sunny on them. It is better to place the tree on a well-lit table, moving it towards the window. The plant tolerates unfavorable conditions, but shefflera cannot withstand the sun for long - its leaves turn yellow and become covered with burns. Therefore, it is recommended to hide it from the heat under a light curtain.

Shefflera can also be placed in partial shade. But you shouldn’t place it in the back of the room, at a considerable distance from the light source, otherwise, instead of a spectacular tall tree, a stunted misunderstanding with sparse leaves will grow. This winter indoor flower needs additional lighting. This is especially important when kept warm (temperatures above 17°C).

In the warm season, the pot with shefflera can be taken outside: to the terrace, balcony or garden. The main thing is to shelter it from the bright sun and protect it from wind and drafts.

Despite its tropical origin, the plant does not like heat. Its preferred temperature is between 17-22°C in summer and at least 12°C in winter. Schefflera reacts sharply to overheating, throwing off its leaves. For this reason, window sills under which the battery is located and corners near heating devices are poor options for placing it. Flower leaves also fall due to drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations.


Watering and humidity

This indoor plant loves a humid atmosphere, but does not tolerate stagnant water in the pot. For those whose home garden is decorated with Schlumbergera truncata (better known as Decembrist), its requirements will seem familiar. During the period of active growth, Schefflera requires frequent (with an interval of 2-3 days), but moderate watering. The soil should not be allowed to dry out. It should always remain slightly damp. But short-term drought in schefflera is easier to deal with than constant dampness, due to which the soil turns sour and the roots of the tree begin to rot. Overwatering is indicated by blackening and flying leaves. Such problems will not arise if you grow Schefflera hydroponically.

When the flower is in the dormant stage, watering is reduced to 1 procedure every 7-10 days. It is important to follow this rule if the plant is kept at low temperatures in winter. Schefflers defend water for irrigation. Distilled or boiled is also suitable. Its temperature should be room temperature or 2-3°C higher than room temperature.

Increased air humidity is the key to the full development of shefflera. On hot days, the tree is sprayed daily, using soft water for the procedures, otherwise, after it dries, white spots will remain on the leaves. Clean this indoor plant from dust with a damp sponge or give it a warm shower. In winter, a favorable microclimate for shefflera is created by filling the tray of the pot with wet expanded clay. You can replace it with pebbles or moss. The roots of the flower should not come into contact with water. If the room is warm in winter (more than 17°C), do not stop spraying the plant.

Propagation by stem cuttings

Flower growers who are not familiar with breeding Schefflera are interested in how the tree reproduces. You can grow it in different ways:

  • from seeds;
  • from cuttings;
  • from the air layer.

Most often, flower propagation is carried out by cuttings. Having selected the most developed semi-lignified shoot on an adult sheffler, it is cut off with a sharp knife and divided into parts. Each cutting should have 2 internodes. Then the shoots are dipped into a solution of a root growth stimulator (Heteroauxin) for 6-8 hours. It is advisable to stock up on Kornevin. The cuttings are dipped in it before planting.

They are rooted in separate containers in a mixture of peat and sand. To prepare the substrate, both components are taken in equal volumes. The container with the planted cuttings is placed under a plastic bag. For them to take root, it is necessary to provide them with two conditions:

  • warm (about 22°C);
  • bright but diffuse lighting.

Caring for Schefflera cuttings at this stage is easy. You just need to periodically moisten the soil with a spray bottle and ventilate the greenhouse, briefly removing the bag. When the cuttings take root, the temperature is reduced to 18-20°C and the shelter is removed. Plants are left in planting containers until their roots completely entwine the soil ball. They are then moved to larger diameter pots. Until they take root in a new place, the temperature should not rise above 14-16°C.


Alternative methods of reproduction

It is almost impossible to obtain schefflera seeds at home, so you will have to purchase them in the store. They are sown early - in January-February. To increase germination, the seeds are pre-treated with a growth stimulant (Epin, Zircon).

The planting container is filled with peat mixed with sand or a substrate made from the following components:

  • turf land;
  • leaf soil;
  • sand.

The recommended planting depth is 3 seed diameters. Having finished sowing, the container is placed under glass or covered with film. Schefflera seeds germinate at a temperature of 20-24°C. Caring for crops comes down to daily ventilation and moistening the soil as needed.

It will be easier to propagate a flower in a generative way if you heat the container with the planted seeds from below. This way the schefflera sprouts will appear faster.

When the seedlings produce 2-3 true leaves, they are picked into separate pots. They should not be large - from 7 to 9 cm in diameter. Spiked shefflers need coolness. The temperature in the room with them is maintained at 14-16°C. Closer to autumn, they are replanted again, using pots whose diameter is 10-12 cm. They need a substrate almost the same as crops. Only the proportions change: the components are mixed in a ratio of 2:1:1.

To propagate an adult Schefflera by air layering, a vertical cut is made on its trunk. Sphagnum moss soaked in a nutrient solution is applied to it. It is prepared from complex fertilizer or immunomodulator drugs. Add 1 g of substance to 1 liter of water. Having pressed the moss to the trunk of the shefflera, it is tightly wrapped with film on top. Constant humidity must be maintained under it, this must be carefully monitored.

Soon roots will appear at the cut site. When they grow up (this will take about 2 months), the flower is cut off and planted in a pot. There is no need to throw away your old shefflera. It is cut off, leaving a low stump. If you water the plant, it will eventually produce young shoots.


Feeding and replanting

During the period of intensive growth (March-August), Schefflera needs care in the form of fertilizing. It is carried out once every 1.5-2 weeks. Complex mineral compositions intended for decorative deciduous crops are suitable for the flower. It is advisable to alternate liquid feeding of shefflera with the addition of organic matter. The plant responds well to crushed eggshells. 1 tbsp. l substances are scattered over the surface of the soil in a pot. In winter, this indoor flower is not fed.

Young shefflers require annual replanting. For mature trees, the pot is changed less often - once every 2-3 years, when their roots become cramped in the old one. To adhere to this replanting scheme, every spring the top layer of soil (to a depth of 5 cm) is replaced with fresh one. The new container should be significantly larger in diameter than the previous one - by 5-6 cm. The best time for replanting is spring.

The bottom of the pot is covered with a thick drainage layer. Sheffler likes soil that is light, loose, and high in nutrients. Of the ready-made substrates, palm soil or universal soil is suitable for her.

If you make a soil mixture for a plant yourself, you need the following components:

  • compost soil (3 parts);
  • peat (1 part);
  • coarse sand (1.5 parts).

Transplantation is carried out by transferring the flower from pot to pot and trying not to destroy the earthen lump. The voids are filled with soil, pressing it down. Finish the transplant with watering.


Trimming

If shefflera decorates an indoor flower garden, it is given the shape of a tree or bush. In the first case, it will look spectacular next to the Benjamin ficus. In the second case, Schlumbergera truncata will be a good neighbor for the flower. Young Schefflera have thin stems. In order to get a beautiful powerful tree in the future, they are tied to a support.

Whether a flower needs pruning depends on the variety. Radiant varieties of the plant, which have only one stem, do not require it. If the shefflera is woody, the purpose of such care is to save space. When the flower has grown greatly, the upper parts of its shoots can be cut off. This stimulates their branching.

The decorative appearance of the plant suffers from pruning, so many Scheffler owners do without it. To make the flower bushy and lush, 2-3 trees are placed in one pot. The leaves that interfere with each other are not touched, allowing them to dry out. When this happens, they are pruned. They use it for sharp knife, the blade of which is disinfected with alcohol, a solution of potassium permanganate or by hardening. This will protect the houseplant from infection entering the wound.

If it gets on the skin and mucous membranes, shefflera juice can cause irritation. Therefore, pruning it requires caution. It is recommended to carry it out with rubber gloves.


Leaves change color and fall

Improper care can reduce the decorative value of the shefflera and even destroy it. An indicator of a tree's well-being is its appearance. Yellowing of the leaves of the plant indicates an excess of sunlight. In this case, the flower must be removed from the windowsill or shaded. Insufficient soil and air moisture levels are the main reason for blackening of schefflera leaves at home. It starts from their ends. If you normalize watering and increase the frequency of spraying, the tree will gradually restore its former beauty.

The leaves of a flower fall off due to pests or unfavorable conditions for it:

  • prolonged hypothermia (if the room temperature is below 14°C) or overheating (at 30°C);
  • chronic waterlogging, which resulted in rotting of the Schefflera roots;
  • insufficient lighting (plant species with variegated leaves often react to it this way).

Having discovered that the Schefflera roots are rotting, it is necessary to urgently save the tree. It is removed from the pot. The roots are carefully examined, cutting off diseased areas. Then they are immersed in a solution of a growth stimulator drug (Epin, Zircon). The next step is to disinfect the Schefflera roots. For this you can use Fitosporin or crushed coal. After treating the roots, the plant is planted in fresh, slightly moistened soil mixture. The pot is placed under a plastic bag. Shefflera is kept in such a greenhouse for 5-7 days. Periodically remove the bag to ventilate and water the flower.

Insects dangerous to wood:

  • scale insects;
  • thrips;
  • spider mites.

Due to their invasion, the development of schefflera slows down, the leaves on the flower turn yellow and then fall off. If pests are not controlled, the plant will wither. Get rid of them by initial stages defeats are easier. Detected insects are carefully removed from the leaves and stems with a sponge, cloth or cotton swab soaked in soapy water.

If pests on the sheffler have formed an entire colony, you will have to use insecticides. Actellik, Fitoverm and Karbofos have proven themselves well. You should work with them carefully, following safety rules and making sure that the drug solution does not get into the soil. If necessary, re-treatment is carried out after 2 weeks.

Schefflera is a truly versatile houseplant. It will subtly highlight the beauty of other flowers in the home garden, but even when planted alone, it will delight the eye with its lush, bright crown, creating an atmosphere of warmth and comfort. Caring for the tree is easy. It is necessary to provide the shefflera with good lighting and constant humidity, and it will thank you for your care by quickly turning into a tall, spectacular flower.

Lovers of indoor plants who believe in omens will find many reasons to get this guest from the tropics. According to Feng Shui, a well-developed sheffler in a house speaks of material well-being and mental balance. This plant, like a sponge, absorbs negative energy. Being next to him relieves anxiety, fears and sad thoughts, calming, invigorating and bringing a feeling of peace and harmony. If you place a pot of shefflera in the bedroom, you don’t have to worry about nightmares and insomnia. Its placement in an office or study room would be successful - esotericism ascribes to wood the ability to facilitate and improve the acquisition of knowledge.

Fans of exotic flowers appreciate sheflera, an unpretentious guest from the tropics. At home, the plant never blooms, but it is loved for its leaves. unusual shape. Growing sheflera and propagating it indoors is not difficult. And it requires ordinary care: watering, pruning, fertilizing, protection from diseases and pests. Even a novice florist, who had previously only seen the cheflera in photos, can cope with this.

Optimal conditions for development

Care rules:

  • The best place for the pot is a southern, eastern or western window sill. However, too bright sunlight is contraindicated for the plant. The exception is trees with variegated leaves. For everyone else, hang light curtains or pieces of gauze over the window.
  • The air temperature should be around +16...+22°C in summer and +14...+16°C in winter. Variegated varieties are more capricious: they need approximately +18°C all the time.
  • Drafts or a sudden change of location can negatively affect the development of the flower. But in summer it is still recommended to take the umbrella tree out into the fresh air, protecting it from the active sun, or to frequently ventilate the room without drafts.
  • On hot days, monitor the air humidity especially carefully. Tropical culture does not tolerate excessive dryness. Periodically wipe the leaves with a sponge dipped in water or spray the flower.

Attention! Do not place the container with sheflera near heating radiators.

  • The frequency of watering depends on the season. In summer this is 2-3 times a week, in winter - half as often. The water should be settled and warm. You can place the pot with the crop in a tray with expanded clay and water it through it.
  • Sheflera should be fed during its active growth period: from mid-spring to early autumn. Complex fertilizers or fertilizers for palm trees and ficus are suitable. The frequency of application is once a month.

Attention! Young plant, which has recently gone through the procedure of transplantation or propagation, can be fertilized only after the appearance of new leaves.

How to prune and replant an umbrella tree

To prevent the shefflera from losing its decorative effect, it needs to be trimmed periodically. They do this in the spring:

  • To obtain a spherical shape, shorten the top of the tree. Pinch off the side shoots that appear after this;
  • if you want to form a pyramid, trim off the tops of the side branches. After pinching the tops, water and feed the flower well;
  • Do not touch the upper part of the crown if you want to turn the plant into a spectacular tree. Remove side leaves and shoots.

Attention! Contact with the plant can cause dermatitis and eye irritation. Carry out any work with gloves, then wash your hands with soap and rinse your face with cool water.

Often several plants are planted in one container. This technique is suitable for those who want to grow sheflera as a bush. In the first year, the young crop must be replanted. In the future, the procedure is carried out every 2-3 years. The diameter of the new container should be 5-7 cm larger than the previous one.

The soil for planting or replanting requires slightly acidic, loose and fertile. It's easy to prepare it yourself. To do this, mix 2 parts turf and 1 part leaf soil, as well as one part each of humus and coarse sand. After rooting, water the sheflera and compact the soil.

Advice. An adult umbrella tree is transplanted using the transshipment method.

How to propagate sheflera

The simplest and most popular method is cuttings. The trunk should be completely or half lignified. A prerequisite is the presence of 3-5 leaves on each cutting. Before rooting, planting material is soaked for several hours in a growth stimulator. The shoots are planted in a mixture of sand, soil and peat, then they are watered and covered with a plastic bag.

Caring for cuttings consists of daily ventilation, regular spraying and watering as needed. Optimal temperature- about +22°C. After about a month, the new plants will take root. They need to be transplanted into individual containers with a diameter of up to 9 cm and transferred to a lighted room with a temperature of up to +16°C. A few weeks later, the young trees are planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction by layering is suitable for old specimens that have lost their decorative properties. To do this:

  • in the spring, make a wide cut on the trunk;
  • wrap it with a piece of moss treated with a growth stimulator;
  • Place plastic film on top;
  • moisten the moss regularly;
  • After the roots appear, wait another couple of months;
  • cut the trunk just below where the roots have formed and plant;
  • Trim the remaining part of the tree flush with the ground. With proper care, there is a chance that it will sprout new shoots.

Attention! The seed method of propagating the umbrella tree is almost never practiced, because the crop does not bloom at home. You can purchase seed material in specialized stores. It is sown in the middle of winter, adhering to the basic recommendations for growing young chefleras.

What to do if the plant is sick

Often the cause of the unhealthy “appearance” of a flower is errors in caring for it. If the leaves become stained, turn black, fall off, and the shefflera dries out, it most likely lacks moisture. Increase watering, but make sure that the water does not stagnate at the roots. Rooting of root shoots can also cause foliage to wilt. Therefore, during planting and replanting, remember to have a good drainage layer.

Advice. A rotten plant must be replanted by completely removing the affected parts and treating the cut areas with a fungicide.

Too active sun will cause burns on the crop, and temperatures below +16°C will lead to yellowing of the leaves. A sparse crown and elongated shoots are a sign of lack of lighting. If she lost her chef decorative look because of not proper care, cut it off completely. In a comfortable environment, she will put out new shoots.

Sometimes spider mites, scale insects or aphids settle on a flower. Treatment with a soap solution or insecticide will help get rid of them. With proper care and suitable conditions, the cheflera will not cause trouble even to an inexperienced owner. But it will please him with a beautiful and unusual appearance.

Features of caring for sheflera: video

Having started growing Schefflera flowers at home, you probably wondered - how to care for Schefflera at home? You will find the answer to this and other questions, as well as many interesting facts, in our article.

Unfortunately, Schefflera does not bloom if placed indoors,
but from this article you will learn how to make this plant
decorated your home and delighted you with its appearance and aroma.

Please note that this flower is susceptible to diseases and pests. We have separately indicated this and given ways to avoid them and what to do in case of infection. Do not neglect these tips so that Schefflera diseases do not harm you and your family.

Scheffler

Or umbrella tree, is a tall evergreen U shefflers long, slender branches tipped with umbrella-like spokes, each with a single, finger-shaped, glossy green (or variegated) leaf. Young on the branch shefflers There are usually 4 - 5 leaves, and in adult species there can be more than 12.

  • In room conditions Scheffler blooms quite rarely, but if this happens, the flowers will look like tentacles. But the plant is mainly grown for its leaves.
  • Scheffler It will look great in large, well-lit rooms.
  • In the room Scheffler can stretch up to 2 m. The plant can be allowed to grow tall ( Scheffler quickly reaches its full height) or, by pinching the growing point, give it the shape of a low bush.
  • More large species shefflers They grow more slowly, but quickly take the leading place in the room.

A houseplant such as sheflera can be found quite often in many homes and offices. This plant is the most suitable option for a novice gardener, because it is completely unpretentious.

Choosing a place

The most ideal place for a sheflera, where she will feel comfortable, is the window sills of windows facing east and west. You should know that drafts are strictly contraindicated for this plant. It is very good if your apartment or office has air conditioning. The optimal temperature for sheflera is 18-22 degrees.

It has long been noticed that in rooms with air conditioning, plants grow much better and faster. But this does not mean that the pot with the plant should be placed under cold streams of air. The light should also be properly organized.

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SCHEFFLER - CARE AT HOME.

TEMPERATURE.

In spring and summer, the temperature should be about 20°. In winter, the minimum temperature is 12°C, the optimal temperature for shefflera in winter is 14 - 16°C.

Cannot be posted Scheffler near heating devices.

Schefflers love cool conditions - 17-22 degrees Celsius. But even under normal indoor conditions it will grow well, but it is advisable to spray the plant to ensure a more favorable microclimate. And, here, more severe overheating, for example, under direct sun rays or next to heating devices, can cause leaf drop.

Despite the fact that the tree grows in the tropics, it does not tolerate heat. The best temperature for it is +16...+22 o C, in winter - +14...+16 o C. For species with variegated leaves, the thermometer should not fall below +18 o C. At lower values, the condition tropical plant getting worse.

LIGHTING.

Scheffler prefers bright diffused light; it is better to shade it from direct sunlight. Pots with Scheffleroy best placed on Western and east windows. Varieties with green leaves can be grown on the north side, while variegated varieties shefflers need more light.

Scheffler adapts well to low light, but does not like sudden deterioration of it

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WATERING.

In spring and summer, water Scheffler it is necessary regularly and plentifully, without allowing the earthen clod to dry out. In winter, watering is limited; the soil should be barely moist.

Shefflera should be watered with soft, settled water at room temperature.

The soil must not be allowed to become acidic.

Compliance correct mode watering – important factor For successful cultivation Schefflers. The sheffler needs to be watered moderately; it is advisable for the soil to be slightly moist all the time. Overdrying of the earthen coma is undesirable, but the plant can tolerate it, unlike waterlogging. Schefflera reacts very painfully to the “bay”; the leaves begin to turn black and fall off.

Spraying is very favorable for sheflera. In hot weather and dry air, you need to spray the plant at least once a day. The water for spraying should be soft so that white streaks do not remain on the leaves. As dust accumulates on the Schefflera leaves, you need to arrange a “shower” or wipe the leaves with a damp sponge.


AIR HUMIDITY.

Scheffler prefers high humidity, so it is advisable to spray it every other day. Also, a pot of Scheffleroy can be placed on a tray with moistened expanded clay or wet peat.

Room with Scheffleroy need to be well ventilated.

The optimal water temperature is room temperature, maybe a little warmer. Watering frequency - twice a week at the rate of 300 ml per 1 liter of soil.

But you need to focus on the flower - each species has its own need for moisture: variegated varieties consume less water. You also need to check the condition of the soil.

A slightly dry top layer indicates that it is time to water. Schefflera will only be pleasing with its appearance when the air humidity is high, so it needs to be sprayed or the leaves wiped with a damp sponge.

FERTILIZER.

From spring to autumn Scheffler feed with universal fertilizer for indoor plants every two weeks.

TRANSFER.

Transplanted Scheffler once every two years, in the spring, with the appearance of signs of filling the entire volume of the pot with roots. Transplanted into a pot much larger than the previous one. Good drainage must be ensured.

No need to neglect feeding shefflers or requirements for replanting into a looser pot, as this can lead to the falling of the lower leaves.

Schefflera needs to be replanted approximately every two to three years. It is better to do this in spring or autumn.

Pot

For each transplant, choose a pot with a large volume. After all, with proper care, the cheflera will grow rapidly.

For proper flower development, you also need to take care of the composition of the soil. The most ideal composition for this plant is 3 parts greenhouse or compost soil mixed with 1 part peat and 1.5 parts coarse sand. Don't forget to ensure good drainage.


Schefflera care at home

The Schefflera plant, which is suitable for beginner gardeners because of its unpretentiousness, is a true southerner. Its homeland is the Australian continent and New Zealand. The German botanist Jacob Christian Scheffler (XVIII century) shared his name with her.]

Schefflera is a genus of plants of the Araliaceae family, which is represented by shrubs, vines, and trees. They can reach a height of 20 meters, short representatives - 10 meters. The species is characterized by complex leaves resembling umbrellas, dissected into 4–12 lobes. As it matures, the trunk becomes bare, and the leaves remain only at the top.

Periodically, inflorescences appear on the branches of Schefflera different sizes– umbellate, paniculate, capitate. In some species they are blood-red, but for the most part they are whitish and greenish. Both flowers and fruits attract insects and birds and provide them with food. They “thank” the plant by spreading its seeds.

Photo selection showing the most common varieties of the Schefflera plant

This genus of plants has almost six hundred species. Some of them are grown as potted crops and are very popular with gardeners. One of the reasons is ease of care and beautiful leaves.

  • Indoor shefflera is mainly represented by trees.
  • Some grow quite tall, others barely reach half a meter in height.
  • Next - about the most common types of this interesting and, of course, attractive indoor plant, which can create a semblance of a desert oasis in the interior.

Schefflera arboricol (Schefflera arboricol)

Common forms of woody shefflera with variegated leaves: It is most popular among flower growers. It has another name - Heptapleurum arboricola. This schefflera comes from Australia and New Guinea.

Although the name indicates its similarity to a tree, in fact we are talking about a tree-like vine, which has no branches at all. It sprouts shoots from the roots. To get a lush flowerpot, several plants are planted in a pot at the same time on a support and given the desired shape.


Schefflera actinophylla

Schefflera radiata (star-leaved, stellate) is an independent species of the genus. Early classification even placed it in a separate genus Brassaia, the plant was called Brassaia radiata. Its homeland is tropical Australia, and it is found throughout the tropical zone.

The tree grows up to 12 meters in height. It has a powerful, erect trunk, which has thickenings at the base and is gray-brown in color. The leaves are planted on long petioles of a reddish-brown hue. They are green, with a glossy surface, slightly wavy at the edges, palmately dissected into 15–16 lobes, reaching 30 cm in length. The middle part is quite wide, so the lobes overlap one another.

Periodically, inflorescences with red flowers appear at the tops of the shoots, from which the fruit subsequently develops - a round fleshy drupe with a diameter of up to 7 mm.

Schefflera octophylla (Schefflera octophylla)

Schefflera octifolia got its name because it has 8 leaves, but as a rule there are usually from 5 to 8

It has a second name - octopus tree. It arose due to the similarity of eight-lobed leaves with sea ​​life– it has the same number of tentacles. But in fact, leaves do not always have 8 lobes - there are fewer of them (from 5) in young plants or more (up to 16) in old ones.

Oval lobes 30 cm long and 15 cm wide are planted on an individual root (up to 2 cm). Young leaves along the edges may be sparsely toothed or pinnate. This species blooms in November-early December, and by the end of December the tree bears fruit.

eight leaf octopus

Schefflera elegantissima

  • This is the second most popular type of plant cultivated at home. It grows up to 2 m in length.
  • Its dark green leaves are set on a thin grey-brown trunk and are dissected into 8–12 lanceolate lobes, up to 15 cm in length.
  • This type of shefflera also does not branch, which many gardeners attribute to it as a disadvantage. An earlier name for this form is dizygoteca.

Schefflera veitchii

The peculiarity of this variety is that the color of the leaves changes with age. Young Schefflera Veitch is characterized by a reddish tint of leaves. But the older the tree, the greener they become.

  • The tree loves the sun very much, so it is better to place it near an eastern or western window.
  • What you need to properly care for your araucaria plant at home.
  • Find out why the houseplant aucuba turns black.

Schefflera digitata

This is a small bush that is perfect for growing by gardeners. Each leaf is formed by eight lobes (up to 10 on older leaves) of an elliptical shape with pointed ends.

What does the plant need?

Schefflera is a light-loving plant; due to lack of light, the leaves lose color

As mentioned above, shefflera does not require any complex care at home. However, you still need to know about her needs in order to make her pleasing to the eye.

Lighting

  • Schefflera loves light both in winter and in summer; from its lack, the leaves lose their brightness. But you shouldn’t leave it in direct sunlight either.
  • For green forms, windows facing east, west and even north are perfect. The lighting requirements for variegated flower forms are somewhat different.
  • They are placed on window sills on the south side, but the light should be diffused.

Expert opinions are divided as to whether the plant can be exposed to fresh air during the warm season. According to some, this can be done, while others believe that “walking” can harm the plant. Therefore, it is necessary to focus on the needs of the flower. But it is important not to forget that direct sunlight is the enemy of leaves.

Optimal temperature for growing

The optimal temperature for growing shefflera ranges from 14 to 22 degrees Celsius

Despite the fact that the tree grows in the tropics, it does not tolerate heat. The best temperature for it is +16...+22 o C, in winter - +14...+16 o C. For species with variegated leaves, the thermometer should not fall below +18 o C. At lower values, the condition of the tropical plant worsens.

Watering and air humidity

Schefflera needs a high tray because it is watered abundantly in the summer. However, excess water is removed after a few hours or the next morning to prevent the roots from rotting. The optimal water temperature is room temperature, maybe a little warmer. Watering frequency - twice a week at the rate of 300 ml per 1 liter of soil.

But you need to focus on the flower - each species has its own need for moisture: variegated varieties consume less water.

You also need to check the condition of the soil. A slightly dry top layer indicates that it is time to water. Schefflera will only be pleasing with its appearance when the air humidity is high, so it needs to be sprayed or the leaves wiped with a damp sponge.

Soil requirements

  • sand – 10%; The soil should be fertile and slightly acidic. Therefore, the following composition is recommended:
  • humus – 20%;
  • leaf soil – 30%;
  • turf land – 40%.

You can mix turf and leaf soil, as well as humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. If it is not possible to prepare such a mixture yourself, buy ready soil for palm trees. Be sure to arrange drainage to prevent water from stagnating. For cultivation will do hydroponics method.

Fertilizer and feeding

To activate the growth of shefflera and ensure its normal development, fertilizing is carried out. This is done in the warm season - from March to September, once a month. With the same frequency, it is useful to spray the leaves of the plant with epin, zircon, and other bioregulators. The fertilizer is taken universal or intended for decorative deciduous crops. Apply it after watering, while the soil is damp.

Shefflers are pruned by cutting off the tops. This is done to stop excessive growth. This way you can even add splendor to the flower: some types of schefflera send out side shoots, but most often they do this reluctantly. Pruning is carried out by 5–6 buds or more - usually in the spring. It is especially useful to prune the tree-like schefflera, since with the help of this procedure you can form a beautiful crown, which is especially appreciated by lovers of the art of bonsai.

Scheffler's rest period

From November to February the plant is dormant. Then it is fed with fertilizer once a month - the same as in the summer. But the concentration of the product used should be half as much. The watering regime also undergoes changes - once every 5–7 days, 100 ml per 1 liter of soil. It is necessary to water only after the top layer has dried.

Transplanting a plant

Young plants are replanted annually, older ones - once every two to three years in a pot that is slightly larger in volume than the previous one. It is recommended to do this in the spring. Then, before winter, when the plant is dormant, the root system will be able to develop and strengthen. If replanting the shefflera is impossible - for example, when it is already in a large pot, the top layer of soil is replaced.

Shefflera propagation is another way

It is quite difficult to breed this culture. For this purpose, seeds, cuttings, and air layering are used.

Schefflera is propagated by seeds, cuttings and air layering


For propagation, shefflers use specially prepared soil, for which sand, leaf and turf soil are mixed in equal parts. The soil should be disinfected before use. It is important to maintain a constant soil temperature at +20...+24 o C, for which greenhouses can be used. After the first leaves appear or the cutting has taken root, the flower is moved into a pot with a diameter of 7–9 cm and kept at an air temperature of +14…+16 o C. By autumn, the diameter of the container is increased to 10–12 cm.

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SOIL.

Soil for shefflers should be light, slightly acidic, consisting of 2 parts turf soil, 1 part humus and 1 part sand.

Good drainage is a must.

Soil requirements

Palm soil is required.
sand – 10%; The soil should be fertile and slightly acidic. Therefore, the following composition is recommended:

  • humus – 20%;
  • leaf soil – 30%;
  • turf land – 40%.

You can mix turf and leaf soil, as well as humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. If it is not possible to prepare such a mixture yourself, buy ready-made soil for palm trees. Be sure to arrange drainage to prevent water from stagnating. The hydroponics method is suitable for growing.

Fertilizer and feeding

  • To activate the growth of shefflera and ensure its normal development, fertilizing is carried out. This is done in the warm season - from March to September, once a month.
  • With the same frequency, it is useful to spray the leaves of the plant with epin, zircon, and other bioregulators.
  • The fertilizer is taken universal or intended for decorative deciduous crops. Apply it after watering, while the soil is damp.

Pruning Schefflera houseplant

Shefflers are pruned by cutting off the tops. This is done to stop excessive growth. This way you can even add splendor to the flower: some types of schefflera send out side shoots, but most often they do this reluctantly.

Pruning is carried out by 5–6 buds or more - usually in the spring. It is especially useful to prune the tree-like schefflera, since with the help of this procedure you can form a beautiful crown, which is especially appreciated by lovers of the art of bonsai.

Scheffler's rest period

From November to February the plant is dormant. Then it is fed with fertilizer once a month - the same as in the summer.

But the concentration of the product used should be half as much. The watering regime also undergoes changes - once every 5–7 days, 100 ml per 1 liter of soil. It is necessary to water only after the top layer has dried.

TRIM.

Pruning greatly reduces the decorative value of the plant, so to create the effect of a bush, several are often planted in one pot. Scheffler.
SCHEFFLER flowers - care at home.

PROPAGATION OF SCHEFFLERA BY CUTTINGS.

REPRODUCTION.

Scheffler Propagated by seeds, cuttings and air layering.

Before planting, semi-lignified cuttings are treated with heteroauxin and planted in a mixture of peat and sand (1:1). Place containers with cuttings on the bottom heating (on the radiator central heating placement is not recommended).


After you have done air layering, do not rush to throw away the rest of the plant. Cut the trunk almost to the root. Continue to water the stump from the old plant; over time it will give rise to shoots that will grow well.

Illumination

First, about illumination, this is a very important condition for indoor cheflera. Place the plant in the brightest place in the room, preferably on a windowsill if the windows face east, west or north.

  • The north side is not very suitable for plants with variegated colors; due to the lack of light, the pattern will not be sufficiently pronounced.
  • It will be too hot on a southern windowsill, and the bright sun can leave burns on the leaves. In this case, it is preferable to place the pot with the plant on the table next to the window.
  • If located further from the light, especially in the back of the room, the plant will develop poorly and wither.

Sand and peat

Sheflera is propagated by cuttings and seeds. The simplest is cuttings. In order for the cuttings to take root well, they should be placed in a mixture of sand and peat.

For propagation, it is necessary to select the most developed cuttings. It is recommended to keep the cuttings for 6 to 8 hours in a heteroauxin solution before planting. And just before planting in the ground, dip the cuttings in the root.

But there is one difficult nuance - the soil must be warmed up to 22 degrees all the time. The most optimal solution there will be a small greenhouse in which bottom heating is carried out. It is necessary to ventilate the cuttings periodically and sprinkle them with water. Ripe cuttings are planted in small pots and kept in a well-lit place.

Seeds

If you use seeds, the wait will last longer. The composition of the soil for sowing is the same as for cuttings. Before sowing the seeds, they should also be kept in solution, but this will already be a stimulant. Epin or zircon will do. Plant the seeds in holes 10-15 cm deep. The pot with the planted seeds is placed under a film or in a greenhouse.

Care is the same as for cuttings: ventilation, spraying with water, maintaining temperature. As soon as the first leaves appear, you can safely transplant them into a larger container. The sprouts must be planted at a distance of 7 cm from each other. The distance between them should be at least 7 cm. Then, after the formation of a plexus of roots around a lump of soil, they can be planted in small pots and placed in a lighted place.

BY THE WAY

It must be remembered that Scheffler It is slightly poisonous, so you need to wash your hands after contact with it to prevent dermatitis.

DISEASES AND PESTS

  • If the temperature is too high or too low and there is too much moisture, shefflers Leaves may fall.
  • With a lack of light, leaves shefflers become faded, and when there is an excess of it, light spots appear on the leaves.
  • With a constant excess of moisture in the soil, the roots rot.
  • Damaged by: aphids, scale insects, spider mites.

Sometimes “pimples” form on the back of Schefflera leaves. This is the so-called dropsy, a consequence of waterlogging of the plant. For the same reason, brown spots may appear on the leaves, spoiling the appearance. It is necessary to reduce watering.

In rare cases, when the air is dry and there is insufficient spraying, the cheflera can be affected by spider mites and scale insects. Pests are removed with a cotton wool wrapped around a stick, soaked in a soap solution; if necessary, the plant is treated with special means.

The main problem that Schefflera owners face is when the Schefflera sheds its leaves. We wrote about the reasons for this above.

More information about diseases and pests

  • As mentioned above, Schefflera loves water. If it is not watered enough, the leaves dry out at the edges. But due to excess moisture, pimples can form on the back side of the leaves, and brown spots on the front side; sometimes it drops leaves.
  • Then it is necessary to reduce watering and inspect root system. If the roots begin to rot, the problem areas are removed, and the healthy part is placed in a solution of zircon or epin for 1–2 hours. After that, the roots are treated with a fungicide - phytosporin will do, and then sprinkled with crushed coal.
  • Then the plant is planted, sprayed with zircon or epin, and the ground is covered with a transparent bag or film for several days. The film is periodically removed to ventilate the ground. Water the plant very carefully during this period.

Leaves can also fall due to lack of light (especially for variegated species), as well as when the temperature regime is violated, when the plant is cold or hot. By the way, leaf shedding is the most common problem that gardeners face. If a flower sheds its leaves due to lack of light, it must be moved to a brighter place; if there is a shortage of water, the watering regime must be adjusted.

Mite

Another reason why leaves fall is mites, which appear when the air is insufficiently humidified. You can find out that the plant is affected by this pest by the thin web entangling the schefflera. Pale dots may appear on the leaves, which gradually turn into whitish spots, and the plant gradually weakens.

In the early stages, it is enough to wipe the plant with a soapy solution; in later stages, you will need to resort to insecticides - “Neoron”, “Aktellik”, “Sulfur”, “Fitoverm”, etc. An excellent pest prevention is maintaining high humidity and spraying with soft water.

Schefflera is defenseless against many pests. These include scale insects, mealybugs, and aphids.

The aphids are first destroyed mechanically, and then the plant is treated with an insecticide (Decis, Inta-vir, Karate).

If a flower is attacked by a scale insect, the leaves and trunk are washed with soapy water. Insects are destroyed mechanically, since they are protected from external chemical influences by a shield. Only after such treatment should insecticides be used - “Karbofos”, “Bankol”, “Aktara”.

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FEEDING

From April to October, it is appropriate to fertilize the flower every 2-3 weeks. A complete fertilizer containing macroelements such as nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) is added to the irrigation water. And trace elements: iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), boron (b), molybdenum (Mo).

All elements are important for the correct and balanced growth of the plant. During the autumn-winter period, feeding is suspended. When using, you need to slightly reduce the doses indicated in the instructions.

BLOOM

Plants that live in the apartment do not bloom. In summer, autumn or winter (depending on the species), in nature they bloom with blue, lilac, red flowers, depending on the species, the inflorescences are racemose or paniculate. Then spherical black or red fruits are tied.

CUTTING

Sh. radiate, having one stem, does not need pruning. The woody tree is cut off when it becomes too bulky and large. In this case, it is recommended to cut off the tops of the stems, after which the plant begins to branch.

Pruning reduces the decorative properties of the flower. Often, to create a bushy effect, several plants are planted in one pot.

REPRODUCTION OF SCHEFFLERA

Schefflers are propagated by seeds, apical cuttings, layering, using the mowing method.

  • An incision is made on the stem, which is surrounded with moss, securing it to the stem.
  • The moss is constantly kept moist, which allows the plant to take root.
  • Then the stem, along with the formed roots, is cut off and planted in a separate pot.

When choosing a propagation method, you must remember that the seeds have a pronounced disadvantage. Due to genetic variability, you cannot be sure that you will get a flower with the parent properties from the seeds.

If you want to get a specific plant or are not sure about the quality of the seed material that is used, it is better to propagate by cuttings.

CUTTINGS

Apical cuttings are taken at the beginning of spring, 10-15 cm long. You should choose a healthy plant and cut off the cuttings under the internode. An oblique cut is made, which provides a large rooting surface and prevents the accumulation of water on its surface.


SEEDS

Shefflera is also propagated by seeds, which can be purchased at flower shops. For propagation by seeds, a greenhouse or tray is required. As for the process of propagation by seeds, they are sown at the end of February or early spring. The soil mixture is sterilized. The soil for propagation consists of turf, leaf soil and sand (1:1).

  • Distribute the seeds evenly in parallel rows on the substrate. Use a flat piece of wood to lightly cover them with soil. To prevent possible attacks by fungal bacteria, it is advisable to use a fungicide together with irrigation water in the doses indicated on the package.
  • The seeds are germinated in a tray at a temperature of 21 to 24 ° C, the soil is kept moist (using a spray bottle to moisten the substrate) until the seeds germinate.
  • The tray is covered with a sheet of clear plastic or glass to ensure a constant temperature and prevent the soil from drying out quickly.

For seeds, leave the tray uncovered for one hour a day to allow the soil to be well ventilated. When the seeds have sprouted, remove the plastic or glass and increase the amount of lighting (not in direct sunlight), ensuring good ventilation. When the seedlings sprout, they are thinned out, leaving a distance of 2.5 cm between strong seedlings. After a while, the grown seedlings are planted in separate small pots.

PESTS AND DISEASES

The plant is affected by scale insects, mealybugs, and spider mites.

A flower placed in a dry and hot room may be attacked by red spider mites. The faded leaves of the plant will tell you about the presence of the pest. To combat the pest, you need to increase the air humidity in the room. If the infection is severe, then it is advisable to treat the plant with Actellik (15..20 drops per liter of water).

  • High temperature and low indoor humidity are a favorable environment for scale insects. From the influence of the pest, the branches dry out, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the plant becomes weak.
  • Pest control measures. Isolate the flower from other indoor plants. Increase humidity and reduce temperature in the room where the flower is placed.
  • For primary symptoms, treat the flower with soapy water; severe damage requires chemical treatment. For this, rogor (1.5%) or bofos (2%) is used.
  • Old plants are usually damaged by mealybugs. In case of initial damage, the pest is collected manually; in case of severe damage, actellik is used.

Leaf spot is a disease caused by low temperatures, excessive watering and poor soil aeration. Control measures bring the conditions back to normal and treat the flower with a fungicide.

Advice. To combat red spider mites, an infusion of garlic or onion works well.

PROBLEMS OF GROWING SCHEFFLERA

  1. In winter, leaves fall due to excess moisture in the soil and low temperature. You need to raise the temperature and let the substrate dry out between waterings.
  2. The leaves turn yellow and fall off in the summer - it's too hot. Do not raise the temperature above 20 degrees.
  3. Roots rot due to excess moisture. Reduce watering and treat with a fungicidal preparation.
  4. The tips of the leaves are brown - dry air or insufficient watering. Increase humidity and watering.
  5. Light spots on the leaves indicate excess lighting. Place the flower in partial shade.
  6. Faded leaves - lack of light. Increase lighting intensity.
  7. The leaves are limp and fall off over time - the temperature is too high.
  8. Yellow or brown spots on the leaves are sunburn.
  9. Withering of leaves is a lack of fertilizing.
  10. The plant has stopped growing, there are no new leaves - lack of nutrients.
  11. Leaves fall - low temperature (below 10°C).
  1. When buying a plant, pay attention to the leaves. They should be bright, green and look like well-polished leather. When purchasing radiata, pay attention to the shape of the plant.
  2. If your Schefflera has lost its leaves, then in the spring put it in the open air and water it generously. Over time, the leaves will grow back and the plant will regain its original exotic appearance.

Purpose. An ideal planter and potted plant for winter gardens, lobbies, staircases and cool living spaces. Grows great on a windowsill.

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Scheffler in the interior

Schefflera beautifully decorates the interior. For greater effectiveness, its leaves are coated with wax. It is suitable for spacious, bright rooms. The plant performs not only a decorative function: thanks to it, the ecology of the room improves, the air is saturated with oxygen, ozone, air ions, and humidity increases.

It is believed that shefflera acts as a relaxer - it perfectly absorbs negative energy. This property is useful in office premises where you have to work with a lot of people.

However, you need to be careful and wash your hands thoroughly when caring for the plant: the flower is slightly poisonous and can cause dermatitis.

Scheffler- a large evergreen shrub from the Araliaceae genus, a distant relative of ginseng, reaching a height of 2-3 meters at home, and in wildlife Schefflera can grow up to 20 meters in height depending on the variety.

The plant is most common in Australia, the Pacific Islands, the tropics of East Asia, Vietnam and Japan.

The name of the plant was given in honor of the famous German botanist and explorer of the 18th century - Jacob Scheffler.

In nature, there are more than 200 species of vines, low-growing trees and shrubs of this species. But only a few, those with the most decorative properties, are bred at home.

The British call Schefflera the “umbrella tree” because of the peculiar arrangement of the leaves. These evergreen trees and shrubs have distinctive leaves that resemble outstretched fingers. Moreover, the older the plant, the more lacy its foliage becomes. Rosettes of young plants have 6-8 leaves, while older ones have up to 16 leaves. Under natural conditions, the plant blooms profusely, forming large inflorescences - panicles that have white, yellowish, red and crimson colors. Unfortunately, at home, the shrub very rarely pleases with flowering, but this deficiency is compensated by beautiful parchment foliage with yellow, white or cream stains.

In home floriculture, several species that are most suitable for indoor growing are cultivated.

Schefflera varieties suitable for growing at home

Schefflera radiata(lat. Schefflera actinophylla) is one of the most common varieties. Homeland - Australia. In nature it reaches a height of about 10-12 meters. A plant with a strong branching stem, leaves are elongated, palmate, on elongated petioles, dissected into 14-16 lobes, 10-15 cm long. The flowers are yellowish or bright red, small, collected in peculiar inflorescences-tassels. The leaves come in golden yellow, bright green, olive-yellow colors, and the petioles are red-brown. The varieties “Nova” and “Green Gold” are most valued by flower growers.

Radifolia

Schefflera eight-leaved(lat. Schefflera octophylla). Because of its structure it is also called the “octopus tree.” Homeland - Eastern Asia. A very impressive plant, perfect for home gardening. On the petioles of young plants, resembling rosettes, there are 6-8 leathery lobed leaves of an elongated shape with light veins, in adults the number reaches 16. Young leaves are shiny, light green, old ones are darker.


Eight leaf

Schefflera arborescens(lat. Schefflera arboricol), also known as heptapleurum arboricola (lat. Heptapleurum arboricola). It grows naturally in New Guinea and Australia. The erect plant is not a tree, it is a tree-like vine. The leaves are unpaired, pinnate, with rounded ends, arranged 7-15 on a light brown stem. The liana hardly branches, but produces abundant growth from the roots. Due to this, several shoots of different ages are usually planted in one flowerpot, from which a composition can be formed using a support. Often this variety is formed in the form of a tree, bush, or in the “bonsai” style. Sometimes grown in open ground or to decorate a winter garden. The most spectacular are the variegated forms “Gold Capella”, “Beauty”. “Gold Capella” looks like a palm tree with variegated leaves. The “Amate” variety is especially valued because it grows well in rooms with poor lighting. In addition, this variety is very resistant to various pests.


Tree-like

Schefflera the most graceful(lat. Schefflera elegantissima). Low-branching, highly decorative plant. The leaves are large, elongated, complex, located 8-12 pieces on each petiole. At home it can grow up to 2 m. The trunk is gray-brown and thin.


Most graceful

Scheffler Veitch(lat. Schefflera veitchii). This variety has elongated leaves with wavy edges, and in younger plants they are reddish in color, while in older plants they become dark green.

Schefflera palmata(lat. Schefflera digitata). The homeland of this shrub is New Zealand. A small compact bush reaching up to natural conditions 4-7 meters high, suitable for home breeding. On well-developed shoots, up to 8-10 palm-dissected, wavy, oval-shaped leaves, pointed at the ends, grow. The petioles are cylindrical, reaching 15-20 cm in length. The varieties “Charlotte” and “Melanie” - bushes with wavy leaves with variegated inclusions - are valued because they practically do not fall off.


Palmate

Recently, golden-green colored schefflers have become the most popular. These plants are very suitable for growing in offices, apartments or winter garden as tabletop or floor-mounted.

Plants planted in several pieces and directed along a bamboo stick or in the “bonsai” style look impressive. The stems of shefflera are quite flexible and allow you to intertwine them with each other and form an original crown. Or you can form a lush bush by cutting off the top, thereby stimulating the growth of side shoots.

Schefflera flowering can be achieved in plants older than 7 years, and in a winter garden.

Caring for Schefflera at home

Scheffler is satisfied unpretentious plant. It does not tolerate drafts and bright lighting, and direct sunlight can cause burns. But even in the shade, the leaves will lose their variegated color or the trunk may begin to curl. Therefore, this type is not suitable for rooms with windows on the north side. The best option– bright but diffused light. In summer, it is advisable to take the shefflera outside, but it is important that it is not exposed to direct rays of the sun. In addition, nighttime temperature changes have a good effect on the growth and development of the bush. In addition, it is necessary to spray the leaves frequently, several times a day. If you do not follow this watering regime, young developing leaves may begin to dry out and fall off and old ones may turn yellow.

Watering shefflers should be moderate, since if there is an excess of moisture, the leaves will become covered brown spots. To control the moisture level, you can place a tray with wet pebbles under the flower pot.

If the leaves begin to fall off or turn black, it means that this plant is suffering from an excess of moisture and watering should be reduced. And if they begin to dry out at the ends and darken, the shefflera is most likely suffering from drought: more frequent spraying and watering is necessary. It is necessary to water and spray only with settled, warm water, the temperature of which should not be lower than the air temperature in the room, otherwise it will have a very detrimental effect on the plant. Sometimes the plant can be given an intense shower.

Optimal air temperature for shefflera - 20-22 °C. From the cold, the plant may begin to shed its leaves. If this happens, move the shefflera to a warmer place. Periodically, the plant must be turned on its other sides towards the light in order to obtain uniform growth. When kept at temperatures below 16 °C and above 28 °C, the plant may shed its leaves.

[!] Scheffler - ! When working with it, use protective equipment, such as rubber gloves. Avoid contact of children and animals with the plant.

Universal fertilizers are applied 2 times a month from the beginning of spring to August. Once a month, it is recommended to spray Schefflera leaves with a bioregulator.

By winter, watering, spraying and fertilizing are gradually reduced. From October to the end of winter, the plant is in a dormant phase. During this period, it is advisable to keep it away from heating radiators, as they greatly dry out the air.

Variegated shefflers winter well at temperatures of about 18-20 degrees, and green-leaved ones tolerate even greater coolness up to 14 degrees.

Reproduction of Schefflera

Schefflera is replanted as needed in spring or autumn. It is better to replant young plants in the spring, every year. But it is better to do this by transshipment with the addition of substrate. This method will protect the roots of the developing plant from damage. For older shrubs, once every 3 years it is recommended to completely change the soil and transfer it to another, larger pot. The substrate should consist of a mixture of humus, sand, peat and turf soil. You can use soil for palm plants. It is necessary to lay a layer of expanded clay on the bottom for good drainage to avoid acidification of the soil.

As a rule, the plant is propagated by rooting cuttings in the spring. On cuttings cut at an angle, you can leave 3-4 leaves and remove the lower leaves. Cut shoots are placed in a well-moistened mixture of sand and peat. You can build a greenhouse and place cuttings there, previously soaked in preparations that stimulate the formation of roots. Once the cuttings have rooted, they can be kept in cooler conditions and then, once the roots have grown, planted in 10cm diameter pots.

[!] All Schefflera varieties take root at different speeds: green varieties produce roots much faster than variegated ones.

You can also germinate seeds by first soaking them in the Epin solution, although this method of propagation is more complicated. Seeds are planted in winter, the required temperature is 22-24 ° C, you can equip a heated mini-greenhouse. The substrate is a mixture of peat and sand; the seeds are buried to a depth of 2-3 cm. The seeds must be regularly sprayed and ventilated. When the first leaves appear, the seedlings are planted in separate pots and kept warm for a couple of months until they get stronger. Then the plant with overgrown roots is planted in a permanent, cooler place.

Larger plants can be propagated using air layering. A small notch is made on the trunk, which is wrapped in moss moistened with growth stimulants and rewound with polyethylene. Moss must be sprayed as needed. Roots will appear in a couple of months. Then the top with roots is carefully cut off and planted in the ground. And the remaining stump can also be wrapped in moss and continued to be watered; after a while it will also produce strong shoots. In this way, you can grow another strong plant.

It is important to know one feature: over time, the plant loses its lower leaves, so it is recommended to either renew the plant or plant young cuttings to it. Then the chef will look more magnificent. For example, several old plants can be intertwined with each other, resulting in original composition. Pruning the shefflera will give it the opportunity to bush. In order for the plant to branch better, it is necessary in the summer, during the period of most active growth, to pinch the buds at the ends of the shoots. At good conditions Schefflera grows by 30-40 cm per year.

Schefflera pests

At improper care Schefflera can be affected by spider mites, aphids, scale insects, mealybugs and thrips. Having settled on branches, leaves and trunk, they slow down the growth of the plant.

Forms cobwebs on the underside of leaves.

Can be identified by brown stains on stems and leaves.

Mealybugs produce faded, fibrous spots on leaves.

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