Growth:
Paphiopedilum Pinocchio is an artificially bred hybrid. Appeared as a result of crossing Paphiopedilum pale-haired (P.glaucophyllum) and Paphiopedilum primulinum (P.primulinum). Both parents are from Southeast Asia. The first grows on the island of Java, the second on Sumatra.
Description of the plant:
Plant size and type:
Paphiopedilum Pinocchio is a sympodial orchid 35–40 cm high.
IN THE PHOTO: Paphiopedilum Pinocchio grows horizontally, forming a bush of rosettes.
Leaves:
Orchid leaves grow in pairs. The leaf blades are quite large, oblong-ellipsoid with a rounded tip. The edges on the reverse side are slightly hairy.
IN THE PHOTO: The foliage of young plants is decorated with a mosaic pattern. As they grow older, the pattern disappears and the color becomes uniformly green.
Flowers:
Paphiopedilum Pinocchio has an erect peduncle. This hybrid is characterized by revolving flowering, which lasts several months and sometimes years.
IN THE PHOTO: It is possible for two flowers to open at the same time.
The diameter of the flower is about 7.5 cm. The narrow wavy petals are wide open, pubescent at the edges. There are thin, short hairs on the upper sepals. The lower sepals form a graceful shoe. More often there are plants with a lip covered with spots of all shades of pink or purple.
IN THE PHOTO: The hybrid has an interesting form of Paphiopedilum Pinocchio "Alba" with a yellowish or greenish perianth.
Agricultural technology:
Temperature :
The hybrid was bred for indoors. The plant is moderately thermophilic, the optimal average annual air temperature is about +20°C.
Lighting:
The orchid is shade-tolerant. It is permissible to place a container with a plant in the northern, western and east windows. If the windows face south, it is necessary to provide shading.
Watering:
It is recommended to water the hybrid with soft, settled water. Paphiopedilum Pinocchio loves hot shower. Required condition good development plants - drying out the soil between waterings. In addition, moisture should not be allowed to accumulate in the container. In this case, there is a high probability of root rot and death of the orchid.
Humidity:
A non-capricious plant does not need high humidity. However, when the air temperature rises to +30°C, it is recommended to use humidifiers. It is acceptable to replace devices with wet expanded clay. Finely dispersed air spraying is also possible, provided that not a single drop falls on the orchid itself. The ingress and accumulation of liquid in the rosette is fraught with rotting and death of the foliage.
Fertilizer:
Paphiopedilum Pinocchio is fed with low concentration orchid fertilizers during the period of new growth. The frequency is 1–2 times a month.
Substrate:
Both parents of the plant are lithophytes. Paphiopedilum Pinocchio is grown exclusively in pots. It is possible to use both ceramic and plastic opaque containers with a large number of drainage holes. You can fill the pot with orchid substrate or prepare the soil by mixing the bark coniferous trees and peat. It is advisable to add dolomite flour or crush well-washed seashells. It is necessary to take care of the arrangement of the drainage layer.
Transfer:
The optimal time to repot a plant is when new growth begins.
Rest period:
Paphiopedilum Pinocchio does not need a rest period. Short-term cooling will help stimulate flowering. To do this, it is enough to open the windows for two to three hours. You should not take the orchid out into the fresh air; such a move can destroy the indoor plant.
Reproduction:
Paphiopedilum Pinocchio is propagated by dividing the bush. To do this, an adult healthy specimen is carefully cut with a clean sharp knife into divisions with three sockets.
The Paphiopedilum genus is probably the most interesting of the Orchidaceae family. It comes from the forests of East Asia and includes over 50 species and many hybrid varieties.
Representatives of the genus are half epiphytes with weak root bulbs or without them at all. Their leaves are long, collected in rosettes, placed close to each other. The roots are fibrous, thick, covered with a protective layer dead tissue. From one to three bright flowers are formed on the peduncles, which are distinctive feature these crops. Thanks to unusual shape Paphiopedium flower is also called " Lady's slipper ».
These types of orchids bloom for quite a long time - up to 4 months, and some varieties can bloom for more than six months. Stores very rarely sell clean shoes. These are mainly hybrids, which are named accordingly “MIX”. Thanks to hybridization, these individuals are more stable, and by the leaves and inflorescences one can determine which orchid variety is dominant.
Types and varieties
Probably the most common variety of this plant, which is found very often. He has aerial roots, sparse foliage and beautiful flowers.
Or bellatulum grows wild on the islands of Malaysia, India, and Indochina. Has large leaves, covered with patterns. The flower stems are small, each producing one flower, white or cream in color.
Comes from Vietnam. This is a low plant with short foliage up to 10 cm long. The leaves are decorative due to the pattern of spots.
Up to two large flowers are formed on long shoots. The lip, which in other species resembles a shoe, is more reminiscent of a ball. The color of the petals and sepals is white, the center is yellow, and the lip is a delicate lilac shade.
It has a medium-sized rosette. The leaves are dark green, covered with light stripes. A shoot rises above the leaf rosette, on which one flower of light green color appears, the edge of the sepal from the middle becomes white.
A crop with variegated and rather long foliage. The bottom of the leaves is speckled with purple. The peduncle is low, up to 4 flowers of soft green or yellow color appear on it.
Low grade. It has a small rosette of leaves with medium-sized leaves, dark green in color with slightly noticeable light green stripes. A flower stem rises above it, on which one flower appears, predominantly light green in tone, it can have a lilac tint, and the lip can be a burgundy shade.
Paphiopedilum Black Jack The main charm of this variety is its dark burgundy color, which is not so common among indoor flowers.
Quite a tall variety with long foliage. One flower is formed on a drooping shoot. The color of the petals is white with lilac stripes and splashes. The lip is very pronounced. The sepals are green with white edges and brown dots in the middle.
This variety has long, strap-like leaves, above which a flower stem with one flower rises slightly. The color of the petals is light green turning into light burgundy. The middle of the lip is yellow. The sepals are white on top and turn greenish towards the bottom, while the center is interspersed with purple dots.
Paphiopedilum home care
Paphiopedilum is quite difficult to grow at home, but in general, if you know the features of caring for it, you can cope with it.
The lighting a plant needs depends on its type. If the foliage is green or many flowers form on the peduncle, then such specimens need bright, diffused light. If the leaves are spotted or one or a couple of flowers appear on the shoots, then partial shade on northern windows will be sufficient for such individuals.
In winter, any species of this orchid needs additional lighting by artificial means, so that the daylight hours reach 12 hours.
The temperature needed by the Shoe also depends on the species. Here we can distinguish as many as 4 types.
- For varieties with spotted foliage, summer temperatures range around 23°C, and in winter 18°C.
- If the leaves are narrow and simply green, then the temperature should be a couple of degrees lower than for the previous category.
- All species with “revolving” (that is, continuous or sequential) flowering need 22°C in summer and 19°C in winter.
- Individuals with broad green foliage require the lowest temperatures compared to their relatives. The summer temperature for them is 20°C, the winter temperature is 17°C.
Also for proper care You need a difference between day and night temperatures of at least 3°C.
Flowering occurs provided that the plant has had a dormant period with reduced air temperature.
The foliage of this orchid is very vulnerable to sunlight, so it should not be touched by bright, burning light, because the leaves will turn yellow and dry out. Once a week, the leaves should be washed and wiped to remove dust and prevent spider mite infestation.
Watering paphiopedilum
This orchid needs to be watered heavily during the growing season. With the onset of flowering, watering is reduced. During the dormant period, watering is reduced even more and is done only when the soil dries out. The resumption of intensive watering begins with the beginning of the growth of new shoots and leaves.
Spraying has a bad effect on the leaves because it causes brown spots on them. Because of this, watering should also be done carefully so that water does not fall on the foliage.
Air humidity is very important point in caring for this crop. The hotter it is, the higher the humidity is needed. IN normal conditions 40-50% will be enough, and in hot temperatures it’s a good idea to raise it to 60-70%.
Paphiopedilum transplant
Replanting should be done in the spring once every couple of years, but if this is required by the soil, which begins to cake and oxidize, then it can be done more often.
A planting mixture can be made from conifer bark, peat and charcoal in a ratio of 5:1:1. Choose neutral or slightly acidic acidity.
Fertilizers for paphiopedilum
You can fertilize the Shoe ready-made mixtures for orchids, diluted in water for irrigation. The concentration is as indicated on the package. Feeding is given once every 10-15 days.
When the orchid is in bloom or in a dormant period, no fertilizer is required.
Paphiopedilum reproduction
Paphiopedilum can be propagated at home only by dividing the bush during transplantation.
This can be done if it is possible to divide the bush so that each division has at least three leaf rosettes.
After cutting, parts of the bush are planted in regular soil for adult plants and wait for rooting.
Diseases and pests
Most often, the Shoe suffers from spider mite, scale insects and mealybugs.
Spider mite it weaves thin cobwebs on the leaves, and also because of it the foliage begins to dry out and curl.
Shchitovka easy to spot because it appears as slimy growths on the leaves.
Chervetsy slow down growth, cause harm to buds, and leave sticky discharge on which another disease can develop. They can also be identified by a whitish coating.
If you find any of these pests, the plant should be washed immediately warm water(about 40°C), scale insects are removed by hand. If the pests still remain, then use chemicals. For scale insects and scale insects, insecticides, and for mites, acaricides.
Also, if there is excess moisture in the soil, the rhizome may be affected by rot, which manifests itself in wilting and the appearance of rot on the stems.
Depending on the temperature requirements, there are:1. Warm temperature orchids. This includes almost all Paphiopedilum with spotted leaves.
Summer: 20-25 °C;
Winter: 16-22 °C.2. Orchids of moderate temperature conditions. This includes Paphiopedilum with narrow green leaves.
Summer: during the day 20-22°C, at night 17-19°C;
Winter: during the day 20-23 °C, at night 13-16 °C.
To successfully grow representatives of this group at home, the night temperature should always be 3 °C lower than the daytime temperature. For example, if during the day + 22 °C, then at night no more than + 19 °C.3. Orchids of moderate-warm temperature conditions. This includes almost all multicolored Paphiopedilum, i.e. “revolving” flowering orchids, when one flower fades and another appears on the same peduncle.
Summer: 20-23 °C;
Winter: 18-22 °C.
To successfully grow representatives of this group at home, the night temperature should always be 3 °C lower than the daytime temperature. For example, if during the day + 23 °C, then at night no more than + 20 °C.4. Orchids of moderate temperature conditions. This includes Paphiopedilum with broad green leaves.
Summer: 18-25 °C;
Winter: 16-20 °C.
To successfully grow representatives of this group at home, the night temperature should always be 3 °C lower than the daytime temperature. For example, if during the day + 25 °C, then at night no more than + 22 °C.Humidity:
Paphiopedilum is not demanding of high air humidity; for normal growth and development of the plant, 50-70% will be enough. However, at temperatures above + 27 °C, it is advisable to increase air humidity to at least 70%, since too dry air has a negative effect on the roots and leaves of the plant. To increase air humidity, you can use a humidifier, saucers of water, or wet expanded clay. To do this, take a large tray, inside which expanded clay is poured, a lattice is placed on top to prevent waterlogging of the roots, and pots with orchids are placed. It all looks something like this
When caring for this type of orchid, the following rule applies: “The higher the thermometer rises, the higher the air humidity should be, and the higher the air humidity, the more often and longer it is necessary to ventilate the room where the orchids are kept, otherwise there is a high probability of rotting and the appearance of leaves of various types of fungi."Photo: Paphiopedilum sukhakulii
Substrate:
Grow this type orchids only in pots. The best substrate is a mixture of coniferous tree bark and peat. In addition, it is highly recommended to add lime to the substrate. A practically inexhaustible source of lime are seashells, which can be thoroughly washed of salt, crushed and poured into the substrate.Transfer:
Paphiopedilum must be replanted annually. The best time For this, spring is the beginning of new growth. Very important point here is the planting height of the plant. If Paphiopedilum is planted incorrectly, for example, too high, then the orchid's roots will hang in the air and stop growing. The substrate should cover the upper red-white part of the plant by 1-2 fingers, and in no case should it be compacted, since if the substrate is too dense, the orchid may simply suffocate. When planting Paphiopedilum, it is necessary to take care of a thick layer of drainage to protect the orchid from stagnant water inside the pot.Light:
Paphiopedilum's light requirements also vary from species to species. Orchids with green leaves and multi-flowered ones love bright sun without direct access sun rays, therefore, during the midday solstice they must be placed behind a curtain or in the shade of other plants.
The lighting requirement of Paphiopedilum with spotted leaves is somewhat lower; they feel most comfortable in partial shade. The best place Relatively bright northern windows are suitable for growing them.Watering:
Throughout the year, Paphiopedilum needs frequent and abundant watering. When watering, excess water should flow freely from the pot, since stagnation of water both inside the pot and in its tray can very quickly lead to rotting of the roots and lower part of the plant. It is best to water this type of orchid using a hot shower. This simulates natural conditions in the homeland of orchids and has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of the plant. The water temperature should be 30-45 °C. The substrate should dry well between waterings, but not dry out completely. Keeping Paphiopedilum completely dry for a long time (2 or more days) is not acceptable. After watering, water should be removed from Paphiopedilum leaves using paper scarves or napkins. This is especially true for the core of the plant, since stagnation of water in this place can cause the core to rot very quickly.Photo: Paphiopedilum bellatulum x Conco-bellatulum
Spraying:
Spraying the outer part of Paphiopedilum at home will not lead to anything good, since the structure of its leaves resembles a funnel, and water constantly accumulates in the core of the plant, which can very quickly lead to rotting of both the flower stalks and the core itself.Feeding:
Throughout the year, fertilize this type of orchid once every 2-3 weeks at the usual fertilizer concentration indicated on the package. The fertilizer must be used specialized, marked on the package “For orchids”, since ordinary fertilizers are for indoor plants contain a slightly different composition of useful substances and their dosage is much higher than that required by Paphiopedilum.Rest period:
Only Paphiopedilum with spotted leaves needs a clearly defined dormant period to stimulate flowering. It usually begins in mid-November, and consists of keeping the orchid much drier and colder than usual and not fertilizing it. The night temperature during this period should be no more than +15 °C. Watering the orchid should be replaced with a light morning spraying of the substrate. After the appearance of flower stalks, the dormant period ends: watering is resumed in the usual volume, and the overall temperature of the contents rises.
Failure to observe the rest period leads to the orchid not blooming.Bloom:
As a rule, the peak flowering period for species Paphiopedilum occurs in autumn and spring, while hybrids can bloom at any time of the year. The duration of flowering in the general group varies from species to species and can range from 2 months to 2 years. Paphiopedilum with one flower on a peduncle bloom, as a rule, for 2-4 months, and Paphiopedilum with “revolving” flowering, the flowers of which appear one after another on the same peduncle, bloom for 6-7 months, this includes Paphiopedilum glaucophyllum and Paphiopedilum primulinum. Paphiopedilum Pinocchio can flower for up to 15 months, and Paphiopedilum chamberlainianum for up to 2 years.Photo: Paphiopedilum Lynleigh Koopowitz
After flowering:
Your actions after Paphiopedilum bloom directly depend on which subspecies your orchid belongs to.
1. In representatives of Paphiopedilum, in which there is only one flower in the inflorescence, the peduncle is removed after flowering, if necessary, the orchid is replanted and kept dry for some time. This is necessary to acclimatize the plant and to prevent rotting of wounds on the roots resulting from transplantation.
2. Representatives of “revolving” flowering
Do not prune until the end of flowering (up to 24 flowers appearing one after another on one peduncle):
▪ Paphiopedilum primulinum;
▪ Paphiopedilum glaucophyllum;
▪ Paphiopedilum Pinocchio;
▪ Paphiopedilum moquettinum;
▪ Paphiopedilum chamberlainianum.Reproduction:
At home, this type of orchid reproduces only vegetatively, i.e. by dividing a large adult bush into parts.Being outdoors:
From June to the end of August, it is recommended to keep Paphiopedilum with green leaves outdoors: on the balcony or in the garden. You must choose a place protected from rain, strong winds and direct sunlight.Peculiarities:
Paphiopedilum in nature grows only on the ground, despite this, there is one very serious problem when growing this species - it is necessary to constantly monitor the pH state of the substrate.Errors in care:
At low air humidity, this type of orchid is very often attacked by pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects.
Too humid content of Paphiopedilum, combined with insufficient access to fresh air, contributes to the appearance of various types of fungal diseases on the leaves of orchids and stuck peduncles.
Paphiopedilum or lady's slipper orchid - perennial herbaceous plant Orchidaceae family. The nickname was received due to the shape of the lower lip, reminiscent of a shoe, and the elegance and grace of the flower is comparable to the goddess Venus herself. Most representatives lead a terrestrial lifestyle, growing in small clearings under the shade of trees; lithophytes and epiphytes are rare. The natural habitat occupies the tropical forests of East Asia.
Pseudobulb does not form pathheopedilum. Its rhizome is fibrous, thick, covered with a durable layer of rough skin. The leaf blades are oblong, belt-shaped, the surface is glossy, the color is rich green, but there are varieties with speckled leaves. The leaves are collected in rosettes that fit tightly to each other.
At the top of a long peduncle 1-3 flowers rise. Lower lip shoe-shaped, the petals can be narrow or wide, and the colors are varied: plain, with strokes, stripes, spots and patterns of various shades. Some are velvety, while others are covered with a waxy coating and shimmer in the sun like jewelry. Also pleasing is the duration of flowering - at least 4 months, some representatives bloom for about six months.
In its natural environment, the plant lives in the tropical zone, where the season of continuous rains is replaced by a dry period, with indoor growing It is problematic to recreate such an environment. Lady’s slipper “in its pure form” is not found on sale. We purchase hybrids that are unpretentious and hardy to care for; they adapt perfectly to indoor conditions.
When does paphiopedilum bloom?
When do paphiopedilums bloom? The flowering period depends on the variety. Thus, paphiopedilums with variegated leaves keep flowers throughout the summer-autumn, and their counterparts with a monochromatic shade last from the end of winter and all spring. In single-flowered inflorescences there are 1-2 corollas, in multi-flowered ones - more than three, and in “revolving” ones a new flower is tied in place of the old one.
Reproduction indoors
In indoor conditions, Paphiopedilum lady's slipper orchid reproduces exclusively by vegetative means. The procedure is combined with a transplant (more on this below). A high-quality division must have at least three leaf rosettes and part of the rhizome. Use a sharp knife or scalpel and treat the cut areas with a fungicide to disinfect. Plant the resulting plants in separate containers with suitable soil.
Conditions for growing paphiopedilum orchids
In order for an orchid to grow normally and delight with flowering, first of all it is necessary to create the correct temperature conditions and lighting. In this matter, you focus on the type of plant.
Multi-flowered paphiopedilums, as well as varieties with green leaves, will require bright, indirect lighting. Suitable place The location will be windows facing east or west.
If the leaf blades are “spotty” or 1-2 flowers appear on the peduncle, they will need light shading and can be placed on a northern window.
For absolutely every plant of this genus, direct sunlight is harmful; it leaves burns on the leaves. Also in winter they need 12 hours of daylight per day; use additional illumination with phytolamps.
By temperature conditions Four types can be distinguished:
- Varieties with spotted leaves grow comfortably at a temperature of 23 °C during the summer season, and 18 °C in winter;
- If the leaf blades are solid green and narrow, provide temperatures a couple of degrees lower than for the previous plant variety;
- Representatives with wide leaf blades need the most low temperatures: 17 °C in winter and 22 °C during the summer season;
- For "revolving" paphiopedilums in summer time an air temperature of 22 °C will be required, in winter – 19 °C.
Also, the key to flowering is a daily temperature fluctuation of 3 °C.
Replanting paphiopedilum orchids
Carry this out at intervals of 2-4 years, focusing on the size of the bush (if the orchid’s shoe has become crowded) and the condition of the substrate (when it has oxidized, compacted or become loose). Carry out the procedure in the spring, when the plant is not yet blooming.
For this purpose, choose plastic or ceramic pots that widen towards the top - this makes it easier to remove the orchid when replanting it in order to protect the roots from damage.
The soil requires a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. You can prepare a mixture based on bark coniferous species trees (5 parts) with the addition of one part each of charcoal and peat. Another option: 2 parts conifer bark, 1 part peat and a little dolomite flour.
After replanting, the orchid can be lightly watered with a weak solution of fungicide to prevent the development of diseases due to damage to the roots during replanting.
How to transplant paphiopedilum video:
Watering, air humidity and fertilizing for paphiopedilum orchids
How to water
During the period of active growth of Paphiopedilum orchid lady's slipper needs plentiful. Watering is reduced with the onset of flowering, and during the dormant period, watering is carried out after the substrate has completely dried. Resume intensive watering when new leaves and shoots begin to grow.
Neither overmoistening nor prolonged drought should be allowed. The higher the air temperature, the more often you water. If you notice a “mushroom” smell from the substrate, spray the soil with a fungicide and reduce watering.
For watering, use standing water for at least 24 hours. tap water, or better yet rain, at room temperature. When watering, avoid getting drops of water on the leaf blades, as this may cause brown spots to appear on them. During the period of active growth, it is recommended to arrange warm shower, simulating tropical rain showers. Every week, wipe the leaf plates with a soft, damp cloth to remove dust, which not only serves to maintain decorativeness, but will allow the leaves to “breathe” and protect against damage by spider mites.
Humidity
An important point is the level of air humidity. Follow the principle: the hotter it is, the higher it should be. At normal conditions 40-50% is enough, and in extreme heat (the air also becomes very dry during operation heating systems) will require an increase to the level of 60-70%. You cannot spray the plant, so use artificial air humidifiers; you can place an aquarium, an artificial fountain or a regular container of water nearby.
There is a way to create a humidifier yourself: place pebbles and expanded clay on a tray, place a pot with a plant there and periodically add water. Don’t forget to wash the pan monthly so that the “humidifier” does not become a breeding ground for diseases and pests (fungus gnats, etc.). The humidity level can be adjusted using sphagnum moss, which should be laid around the plant itself, without touching the root collar; spray the moss periodically.
When and how to feed
The plant reacts negatively to excess fertilizer only during the period of active growth (during flowering and the dormant period there is no need to feed). Apply special fertilizers for orchids every 2 weeks; regarding concentration, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
How to grow roots on paphiopedilum video:
Diseases and pests of Paphiopedilum
Why do the leaves turn yellow?
An indicator of the condition of a plant is its leaves. If the leaf blades are wrinkled, it makes sense to sound the alarm. When the plant does not receive enough moisture and nutrients If the necessary forces begin to “extract” from the leaves, you should immediately check the root system.
Carefully remove the plant from the substrate; normally the roots are light brown or brown tint, they may contain barely noticeable short fibers. Pull the velamen (top protective layer) slightly; if the roots resemble wires, the plant dies. Trim dry roots (also remove faded leaves), treat the cut areas with a fungicide, replant in a new substrate, provide regular watering and high level air humidity. This will allow you to reanimate the root system.
Why do leaves become spotted?
Excess may cause rotting of the root system. Brownish spots will appear on the stems and leaves. An emergency transplant will also be required, with removal of the affected areas, treatment with a fungicide and replacement of the substrate, and then adjust the watering.
Paphiopedilum lady's slipper orchid can suffer from the following pests:
- Spider mite - leaves thin cobwebs on the leaf plates, the leaves curl and dry;
- Scale insects - they can be recognized by dense “growths” on the leaves - these are insects;
- Scale insects - cause damage to leaves and inflorescences, leave sticky secretions (whitish coating) on the plant, and can cause the development of diseases.
If pests are found, moisten a cotton pad with an alcohol solution and remove them mechanically, then rinse the plant with warm water (40 °C). If the pests remain, treatment with special preparations will be required: use acaricides against spider mites, and insecticides against the rest.
The best types and varieties of paphiopedilum lady's slipper orchid
Paphiopedilum Delenatii
The plant is native to Vietnam. Leaf blades are 10 cm long, spotted. The flowering stem at the top is decorated with 1-2 large flowers (about 8 cm in diameter). The lower lip is bag-shaped, pale lilac in color. The sepals and petals are white, the center is yellow. The flowering period is from January to December.
Paphiopedilum Maudie Paphiopedilum Maudiae
Paphiopedilum Maudie Paphiopedilum Maudiae Femma photo
The hybrid was obtained in 1900 by the English botanist Joseph Charlesworthy. The leaf plates are oblong, about 10 cm long, decorated with a marble pattern (a combination of dark green and light green). The flower is single, the lower lip is greenish, and the petals and sepals are white-green and striped. The flowering period occurs at any time of the year. In Europe it is often used as a cut flower to create bouquets.
There are many Maudi hybrids, the most popular are:
Alba white-green shade, among them: Femma, Aitch, Charlotte, Clair de lune, Bankhaus, Magnificum, The Queen;
Vinicolor(the inflorescence is almost entirely burgundy): Black Jack, Black Cherry, Blood Clot, Red Fusion, Ruby Peacock;
Coloratum(inflorescences combine white-green-burgundy shades), most often found on sale in Los Osos.
A hybrid orchid with a sympodial type of growth, 35-40 cm high. The leaf blades are oblong, obovate, with rounded tops. Revolver flowering. The lower lip is brightly grown, in the form of a bag, covered with spots of a purple hue, the petals are oblong, wide open, the petals and sepals are covered with fluff.
Paphiopedilum Americanum Paphiopedilum Americanum
People call the orchid “cabbage head” because it is low, has a dense rosette of leaves, and consists of elongated juicy green leaves. There is a single flower on a short peduncle. The combination of white, yellow, brown and greenish shades in the inflorescence creates a harmonious composition.
Appleton's Paphiopedilum or Appleton Paphiopedilum appletonianum
An orchid with large inflorescences about 10 cm in diameter, fragrant flowers of a green-lilac hue. The flowering period is spring. The leaf blades are rigid, belt-shaped, with rounded tops, and have a marble pattern.
Paphiopedilum apricot Paphiopedilum armeniacum
The leaf blades are oblong, up to 15 cm long; a marble pattern spreads out over a dark green background. light shade. The flower is large, sunny yellow, the core is decorated with a darker color.
Paphiopedilum barbatum
It has been in cultivation for a long time; the first hybrid (Harrisianum) was bred on its basis. The length of the leaf plates is 20 cm, there is a marble pattern. Blooms in spring. The diameter of the flower reaches 8 cm, the lip is burgundy-green, the petals are darker, and the sepals are covered with linear stripes of burgundy color, with a snow-white border along the edge.
Paphiopedilum hirsutissimum
The name was obtained due to the highly pubescent peduncle. Another feature: at first the petals are smooth, widening at the ends, and after a while they become corrugated.
Paphiopedilum insigne
It has linear green leaf blades, the length is 25-30 cm. It blooms in September, the flowering period lasts until February. Inflorescences are greenish in color.
Paphiopedilum villosum
Can be grown as an epiphytic plant (on a bark block) or in flower pot with a special substrate. Flowering occurs in the spring-autumn period. The peduncle is 30 cm long, pubescent, bears a single flower. The sepals are brown-green with a white border, the petals are brown-ocher, the shoe-shaped lip is a pale red-brown tone, covered with thin veins.
Paphiopedilum bellatulum or pretty Paphiopedilum bellatulum
The orchid was first discovered in Burma in the 19th century and is also found in China and Thailand. It lives on mossy cliffs at an altitude of 250-1500 m above sea level. The leaves are oblong, spotted, 15 cm long. The flowering period is spring (starts in April). The flowering stem ends in 1-2 snow-white flowers, there are crimson specks, and the diameter of the flower is 10 cm.
Paphiopedilum lawrenceanum
A native of the island of Borneo. Spring flowering species. Peduncle with a single flower reaching a diameter of 15 cm. The “slipper” is brown-red, the petals are greenish with reddish spots, the sepals are striped, white-green. The leaf plates do not exceed 15 cm in length and are decorated with a light marble pattern. The species is relatively easy to cultivate.
Paphiopedilum niveum or snow-white Paphiopedilum niveum
The flowering period occurs in the summer months. The flowering stem is 15-20 cm long, at its top there are two snow-white fragrant flowers with a diameter of about 8 cm. The orchid requires warm keeping and needs feeding less than others.
Paphiopedilum beautiful or lovely Paphiopedilum venustum
Originally from the Himalayas. The flowering period starts at the end of winter. The length of the peduncle is 15-20 cm, at the top there is a single flower with a diameter of about 15 cm. The lip is helmet-shaped, glossy, bright orange in color and with green veins, the petals are greenish-orange in color, they have large black dots and greenish veins.
How to care for the paphiopedilum orchid, watch the video:
