One of the representatives of the cypress family is juniper - an unusual, interesting and attractive plant. Evergreen juniper, whose decorative properties are gladly used by landscape designers, has different color and form, but is unpretentious and undemanding to living conditions. Therefore, the plant is popular not only among landscape design specialists, but also among amateur gardeners who have very little experience in gardening. Today we will talk about how you can propagate juniper so that the new plant is strong and healthy.

Juniper can be shaped like a cone-shaped tree, tall or low growing bush. Regardless of the species, there are several methods of propagation: cuttings, layering and grafting. To ensure that the work is effective and that time and effort on planting are not wasted, let us consider the features of each method.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings are used for different types plants, including conifers. At favorable conditions this can be done not only in the spring, but also in the summer and autumn, but still better in spring, and we'll tell you why:

• The roots formed over the summer will be well formed and young plant will overwinter well. It will be much more difficult to root cuttings cut at the end of summer by winter, so they cannot be left in open ground. Cuttings are harvested for the winter in warm room, and if this is not possible, then in the open ground they are well insulated;
• cut the cuttings on a cloudy, not hot day; in the spring it is easier to choose such conditions. The sun can damage not only them, but also the branches of an adult bush from which it was cut planting material.

It is best to take a plant at the age of eight to ten years. If you want to plant a spike-shaped or pyramid-shaped plant, cut off the branches that grow upward. If it is creeping, you need branches growing on the sides of the bush. To obtain a spherical or bush-shaped plant, any shoots are suitable.

Preparing planting material correctly

Armed sharp knife, cut off a branch 10 centimeters long so that there remains a heel on it - a section of bark from the branch on which it grew. Three centimeters above the cut, we clear the branch of needles and twigs so that nothing interferes with the formation of the root. It is better to plant the cut shoot immediately, but if this is not possible, wrap it in a wet cloth and put it in the refrigerator, or put it in a jar of water for several hours.

Many people believe that cuttings of any plants should be kept in root growth preparations before planting. One can argue with this, because the juniper bark is very delicate and fragile; in water it can be torn away from the cutting and then root formation will be difficult. It is best to water the planted cuttings in a timely manner with sodium humate, then the result will certainly not take long to arrive.

Rooting cuttings

In order for the cuttings to take root quickly, you need a light, well-permeable substrate (you can take equal parts of river sand and peat). Boxes, preferably wooden, with drainage holes, are filled with substrate, placing drainage on the bottom. The cuttings are not buried; it is enough to lower them three centimeters and lay them at an angle.

The boxes are taken into a room with a temperature of up to 19C and placed under diffused light, away from direct sunlight. Water the cuttings often, but a little at a time; excess moisture will not lead to anything good. High humidity is achieved by spraying, this should be done often, maybe 6 times a day.

At proper care After three months the cuttings will take root. But when you see the roots, do not rush to replant them. The first roots are fragile and very brittle, breaking even with a simple touch. Let the cuttings stand in the same boxes and in the same room for another year. If conditions do not allow you to root them for so long, then plant them very carefully so that the earthen ball is preserved, and root system was not injured.

Propagating juniper by cuttings is not difficult, but interesting activity, which even a novice gardener can do. This is the simplest and most popular juniper propagation method today.

We propagate by layering

If you are interested in creeping types of juniper, use propagation by layering. Young branches can be cut throughout the growing season; their rooting occurs faster than the rooting of woody shoots. Layers are dug in and pinned near the old bush. At the landing site, the day before, it is brought river sand, peat, it is dug up so that the soil is light and loose. The cuttings are lightly hilled up and watered regularly, but they should not be flooded; excess moisture can cause root rot of the old bush and the death of the cutting from soaking.

After six months or a year, when the cuttings have taken root, they can be transplanted to the place where you plan to grow a new bush.

We use the grafting method

Rare and valuable varieties of beautiful conifers need special care, including special breeding. A shoot of the variety you like is grafted onto a regular bush. It is pressed tightly and covered with transparent plastic film, maybe in a package.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question about the effectiveness of this method; the graft does not always take root, so it is not widely used.

We use seeds for propagation

Growing a tree from seeds is not easy, so propagating juniper by seeds is less popular than the methods described above. Low seed germination, capricious sprouts - all this makes propagation by seeds a labor-intensive and difficult task.

The seeds are sown in boxes in the fall, and when it gets colder, they are taken out into the fresh air, where they last for four months in any weather. Those seeds that have overwintered are sown in pots in early May, and the pots are again taken outside. Don't wait for shoots, they will appear only after a year.

Ephedra is a light-loving plant; it does not grow quickly; in order for it to be healthy, it needs to create the appropriate conditions - ensure regular watering of the soil and timely apply fertilizers to it.

Hello, dear gardeners!

Let's take a closer look at the main methods of propagating juniper on the site.

Juniper propagates by cuttings and seeds, just like thuja. But bush multi-stemmed forms of self-rooted junipers allow the division of the bush, though only at an early age.

The easiest way is the seed method

Seeds are sown in late summer - early autumn, immediately after they are collected from the berries that have begun to ripen. For fleshy cones, the shell must first be removed. The germination time of seeds is very long, about 12-13 months, so they are not sown directly into the ground.

Sowing is done in bowls filled with soil and having holes at the bottom to drain excess water (or in boxes lined with film, with holes made in the bottom of the film). Bowls (or boxes) are buried in the soil, so that the edge of the bowl is slightly higher level soil, and after snow falls, they throw it on the planting site. In the spring, containers are brought into a greenhouse or room for seed germination.

At seed propagation splitting always occurs in the offspring, which is immediately visible upon germination by the color of the needles, so they select seedlings and plant the selected ones immediately in place without any schools for growing. But in this way it is impossible to determine the shape of the future crown, so you will first have to plant the seedlings in pots that have a drainage hole at the bottom and bury them in the soil sunny place for growing for another couple of years, but no more, because junipers do not tolerate transplantation well (except for creeping forms) at the age of over three years.

Method of propagating juniper by cuttings

Garden forms must be propagated by cuttings in order to preserve the varietal characteristics of the plant (crown shape, color of needles). This is the most productive, but also the most labor-intensive method of reproduction.

When cuttings in the spring (early May), last year's woody shoots are used. When cuttings are taken in summer (early July) - semi-lignified shoots of this year. For cuttings, take vertically growing shoots from plants with a vertical crown shape and thin lateral branches for a bush-shaped crown.

1. You need to prepare a fairly deep container with a drainage hole at the bottom and fill it with a damp mixture of peat and sand (3:1), then bury it in the soil in partial shade.

2. Taking the cutting by its base near the trunk, with a sharp upward movement, then downward, we tear off the cutting with the “heel” (a piece of bark).

3. We tear off the branches from the lower third of the cutting, which promotes better root formation; the needles on the cutting do not rot, which otherwise end up in the soil with the branches. The wounds quickly heal with secreted resin.

4. We leave the needles on the upper branches, as they contribute to better aeration of the cuttings.

5. We plant the cuttings vertically into the hole made, quite densely according to a pattern of 5 by 10 centimeters.

6. Cover the plantings with 2-3 layers of lutrasil hung on the arcs. It is not advisable to plant under film, because there is poor ventilation under it and in summer it can rise high temperature(at temperatures above 25 degrees the cuttings will die!).

7. It is necessary to monitor the humidity and temperature in the cuttings. Optimal temperature in the spring before the buds open the temperature is 15-18 degrees Celsius, and in the summer after the buds open it is 20 degrees. In spring, at low temperatures, the cuttings can be additionally covered with film. The soil should always be moist to the touch.

8. Twice a day you need to open the cuttings and spray the cuttings with water. Once a week you need to add Zircon to the water (2 drops per 1 liter). The prepared solution cannot stand for more than 2 hours, so do not prepare it for future use.

All coniferous plants that allow cuttings are cut in the same way.

Creeping forms of juniper are propagated by layering

The horizontal shoots closest to the soil are placed in shallow grooves early spring(in April), after slightly scratching the bark on the lower part of the cuttings. Layers should be pinned to the soil with wooden slingshots. Sprinkle with wet peat. The ends of the layers must be tied vertically to the peg.

Now all that remains is to monitor the humidity of the burial site. To make things easier for yourself, you can cover this place with a piece of film that needs to be secured. But it’s easier and better to use well-moistened sphagnum moss for this (for example, from a cranberry bog).

An important point is the gradual pruning of the place where the cuttings join the mother plant throughout the entire rooting period.

The method of propagating juniper by dividing the bush

By dividing the juniper bush, it can only be propagated at a young age. In the first ten days of May, the bush must be heavily hilled in order to cover the lower parts of the branches for the formation of adventitious roots. In summer, you need to keep the soil from drying out.

In August, the bush should be dug up, the rooted branches should be separated from the mother plant and planted in containers whose volume is slightly larger than the root ball. The containers must have a drainage hole to drain excess water (remember, junipers do not tolerate waterlogged soil). Best on winter time dig them into the soil for overwintering in a sunny place. For the winter, cover with a small layer of spruce branches. Next spring carefully, without damaging the root ball, replant it in place.

Before planting, it is useful to keep junipers for 24 hours in a solution of any root former, in particular “”, and in the first year of planting systematically (about 2 times a month) spray with “Zircon”. Let me remind you that ordinary honey is also a good root former; to do this, it is enough to dilute just one teaspoon of honey in a glass of water.

Here they are ways to propagate juniper can be used. Remember that conifers take root slowly and for a long time! See you!

The neighbor has a gorgeous juniper, but you don’t. If you want the same one, take a cutting from him. If you don't know how to plant, read on for details on juniper propagation.

The best way to propagate juniper

All cultivated varieties of junipers can be propagated by cuttings. According to experts, this method is the most effective and superior to the seed method. Plants obtained by this method have high viability and actively develop. They have high resistance to negative phenomena and diseases. They do not react to temperature changes and take root well.

According to statistics, seedlings from cuttings tolerate transplantation 50% more successfully than others. 80% better adaptability and climate control. Moreover, they do not require special attention and care. Cuttings are used by landscape designers and experienced gardeners.

How to choose a favorable time?

Get good result everyone wants, for this you need to follow the rules. Best time is considered when temperatures drop in autumn. Nights become humid, with heavy dew and frequent rain.

IN middle lane manipulations with cuttings are carried out from the third ten days of September to the last days of November. Why? At high humidity and cooling of the soil, changes occur in the plant that are favorable for reproduction. Many gardeners recommend choosing April-May, explaining that this is a time of active growth, which is favorable for root formation. It is not recommended to consider the summer months.

Each region has its own climate characteristics. You can focus on temperature indicators. Successful rooting occurs at +5…+20. Deviations from these values ​​negatively affect the cutting and lead to “shock fading” or death.

Rules for cuttings

The success of the event depends on properly prepared soil and the choice of cuttings. Quality material there will be a branch of an adult plant, which is at least 8-10 years old. You can get 90% rooting of juniper by using ordinary and low-growing varieties.

How to cut a cutting

Using a bush form as a “donor”, ​​only side branches are suitable for cutting. On a crown that grows vertically, look at shoots that are exclusively vertical. Regardless of the variety, the length of the cut branch should be 10-15 cm.

Preparation for planting cannot be long-term. Try to perform the “operation” within 3 hours after cutting.

How to prepare a cutting

The resulting specimen needs to be prepared: remove the needles from the bottom. This is necessary to eliminate the possibility of their decomposition in damp soil and the appearance of rot. We clear the entire part that goes into the ground from the needles - a 4 cm segment. We do not touch the upper part, this is important for the future growth and aeration of the seedling.

The cuttings need to be enriched with moisture. Place in water for a day or wrap in a damp cloth. It is better to use the well-known stimulant "Kornevin" or folk remedy: sugar solution (1:2).

Preparing the soil for juniper

It is important to create a soft planting soil. The best way- This is to mix sand with peat. Stick to 3:1 proportions. Pour the resulting mixture with a dark solution of potassium permanganate. Mix thoroughly.

Planting juniper

Create a hole in the selected location, fill it with prepared soil, and place sand (2 cm) on top. There is no need to deepen the cutting too much. It is enough to place 4-6 centimeters in the soil. Moreover, the direction of the seedling depends on the variety. We plant columnar ones strictly vertically. Creeping - it is better to root in an inclined position.

To be on the safe side, it is always better to plant several branches. Therefore, if you want to get a guaranteed 100% result, do 3-5 plantings at once. Place the holes in increments of 70 cm. Having deepened the cutting, squeeze the soil and moisten it. Then mulch with ash and chopped pine bark. Create a film shelter to obtain a greenhouse effect. If the place is sunny, it is necessary to create shading.

The rate of root formation depends on soil moisture. Regular watering is required: as it dries out, usually twice a week. Rooting takes 2-3 months. There is no need to rush to land at the designated place. Allow the plant to grow stronger and become stronger. If cuttings were carried out in the spring, then it is reasonable to plan planting only for next autumn. In any case, it is better to wait for the annual growth to appear.

There are two ways to propagate juniper - seeds and cuttings. It is not advisable to propagate ornamental varieties by seeds, since in most cases they lose maternal signs. So it is more preferable to propagate juniper from cuttings.

Propagation of juniper by cuttings can be carried out at any time of the year, but more favorable time– summer and autumn.

It all starts with preparing the cuttings. To do this, you need to separate cuttings 10-15 cm long from the mother plant. They simply need to be torn off along with a piece of wood, the so-called heel at the tip. Clear the stem of the cutting from the needles and a couple of centimeters from the edge and place them for a day in a solution of Kornevin or any other growth stimulant.

Propagating juniper by cuttings in a jar of water is not advisable, since the delicate bark of this plant can peel off from moisture and, as a result, the productivity of the harvest will decrease. We don’t need this at all, and we will immediately root the plant in pots or boxes with sand. The dishes must have drainage holes.

We will need clean river sand without any additives. The only thing is that it needs to be disinfected in boiling water. Place the cooled sand in containers and treat it with a 3% manganese solution. Now we are not afraid of pests and bacteria.

We deepen our cuttings by 1 cm, squeeze them, compact sand around them. We put the boxes in the shade and provide them with a temperature of +17-23°C. In the summer-autumn period it is will not be difficult, since you do not need to build a greenhouse. Simply cover the boxes with gauze.

One of the secrets, one might say, the main one when propagating juniper, is compliance with temperature regime and humidity. Then rooting will happen much more successfully and quickly.

At first, for about 2 months, you need to spray the cuttings with water every day with a garden sprayer, while trying not to over-wet the sand.

When the cuttings have roots, you can plant them in open ground or in larger pots for growing.

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How to root juniper using cuttings

Juniper is a plant that remains green throughout the year. It belongs to the Cypress family. Due to the variety of colors, shapes, decorativeness and originality, this plant is one of the most popular among gardeners. Accordingly, the issue of juniper propagation is very relevant, so this article will be devoted to this topic.

Juniper is considered to be a representative perennial plants. This bush loves warmth and sunlight, tolerates dry periods well and does not tolerate excessive humidity. With the help of juniper they strengthen slopes, create hedges, borders, and are used in landscape design.

Juniper count unique plant due to some of its features.

In nature, this bush reproduces quite difficultly using seeds. In this article, we will not argue that propagating juniper from seeds is quite simple, since this is incorrect. Growing this plant from seeds is quite problematic and requires a lot of time and effort. Even if a positive result is obtained, guarantee the quality of planting material is impossible. The thing is that bush seedlings grow very slowly, and it will be possible to get the first fruiting only 10 years after planting.

An alternative to sowing juniper was cuttings. This work can be easily done at home with your own hands, and it will take up to three months.

Seedlings that are obtained as a result of cuttings have a stronger root system, due to which they take root faster and can give better growth.

Juniper is propagated throughout the year, it depends on what period of time you need to transfer the plant to the ground.

1. If the plant is planted in the spring, cuttings should be prepared before mid-February.
2. If planting is planned in the fall, then cuttings are performed in mid-summer.

These requirements are justified by the fact that the rooting process of juniper is quite difficult. Like other representatives of conifers (spruce, thuja, etc.), juniper takes a long time to form its root system. The first root, which will be viable, is formed no earlier than on the 25th day, and complete rooting occurs in best case scenario 2 months after planting the cuttings in a special substrate.

One of important nuances in reproduction is mandatory compliance correct size cuttings It should be denser and more voluminous, unlike other garden crops. For this reason, its length is about 25 cm. The correct slope must also be observed. This is due to the species of juniper. Upright bushes are planted and germinated vertically, and varieties that creep along the ground or climb - at an angle of 40-45 degrees.

How to root juniper with cuttings is a rather complicated question, but properly preparing it for planting is also very important.

To select correct cutting To plant a plant that can replicate as much as possible all the characteristics of the mother plant, you should follow a number of simple rules:

1. The future cuttings are cut from the middle or from the top of the crown (the sprouts must be alive and green).
2. If you want a spreading bush to show off on your site, then the cuttings should be taken from the side branches.
3. You need to cut the cutting with the part of the branch on which it is formed (this promotes rapid rooting).

In order for the cutting to take root, it will be necessary to keep it in a solution of a growth stimulator for some time. There are many such drugs, but they have their own nuances. For example, rooting a cutting in a liquid with a root former is impossible due to the fact that the juniper bark peels off in water, which affects the productivity of the sprout. The best alternative liquid product - powder or paste. The cut must be treated with any of them, and you can also add the drug to the soil in which the plant will be planted.

Planting juniper bushes requires specially prepared soil. It should be:

To achieve all the characteristics mentioned above, you need to mix peat and sand in equal parts. There is no need to add ash and lime. Such soil will dry out quickly, but in order for the cuttings to take root and take root, the soil is covered with plastic film in order to create a greenhouse effect.

The procedure for planting sprouts is quite simple. It is necessary to make small holes on the surface of the soil, the diameter of which will not exceed 1 cm, and the depth - 3 cm. The gap between them should be about 8 cm. The sprouts should be planted carefully so as not to damage the cut, since they take root quite difficult.

After planting, the soil should be compacted and the surface moistened. There is no need to use a spray bottle, since when sprayed, water can get on the branches of the plant.

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Propagation of juniper by cuttings at home

Juniper is a coniferous plant. Usually it is grown in plots at the dacha or in the garden, sometimes in the vegetable garden, more often on the street if we are talking about the city, for example, but juniper is rarely grown at home. Of course, this can be done at home if you plan to eventually transplant this coniferous plant somewhere, because it will, albeit slowly, still grow, which means it will take up more and more space in your house. You must be prepared for this in advance before you start propagating juniper at home. Its growth can still be restrained or kept at a specific level thanks to planned pruning of the plant, and you can also come up with a whole composition of several juniper trees, constantly propagating them and planting them in different pots.

Preparing soil for planting juniper cuttings at home

Juniper is unpretentious and takes root well on thin soils. But most of its species prefer light soil with good drainage. For each seedling, prepare a hole approximately 2 times larger than the rhizome of the seedling, along with the soil covering it. The larger and taller the type of juniper, the greater the distance the trees are planted. For small species, the distance may be slightly less than one meter, and for larger species 1.5 m - 2.5 m. At the bottom of the hole are made drainage layer made of small stones or broken bricks covered with sand. The thickness of the drainage layer is approximately 15-20 cm. A mixture of turf soil, sand and peat in a ratio of approximately 2:1:1 is poured over the drainage. You can add a little compost to the planting holes and add 30 grams. nitroammofoski. Common, Central Asian or Cossack juniper requires an alkaline soil reaction. In preparation

The earth mixture for these types needs to reduce the amount of sand and peat, and add a little slaked lime or 200-300 grams of dolomite flour. Juniper virginiana prefers clay soil, which is mixed with a small amount of sand.

The preparation of cuttings is carried out in cloudy weather, because the sun's rays can have a negative effect on both planting material and adult juniper. For cuttings, the tops of semi-lignified shoots are used, since they are considered better formed for continued growth. The shoots are freed from interfering needles and twigs, to a height of approximately 3-4 cm from the heel - it is in this place of the shoot that a new root system will form.

Sometimes you may hear recommendations to soak cuttings before planting in a special root stimulator. However, this should not be done, because the juniper bark is very delicate and in water it can simply peel off, which will lead to a decrease in the overall productivity of your preparations.

Planting juniper cuttings at home

Juniper should be planted in the fall and winter months. However knowledgeable people It is recommended to plant plants from mid-September to the last ten days of November. During this period, the stomata of plants close due to the increased degree of air humidity, as a result, practically no evaporation of water occurs, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the tree and the reproduction process. In spring and summer, it is strictly not recommended to plant juniper. This is due to damage to the root system, which is caused by increased evaporation and physiological drought observed in coniferous plants in the warm season. However, the question about optimal timing Planting juniper trees is quite controversial. Many gardeners claim that the time from the first days of April to the end of May is ideal for organizing the propagation of juniper by cuttings, since this period is the peak of its growth and development in the fall.

When determining the timing of planting, you should also pay attention to climatic conditions. In order for the rooting of juniper cuttings to be successful, the air temperature should be from +5 to +25 degrees. Higher or lower heat levels can have an adverse effect on the plant's reproduction process and lead to its death.

Some types of juniper require additional fertilizer, so for Virginia juniper you can add half a bucket of compost. For Cossack juniper It would be nice to add 0.3 kg of dolomite flour. All these procedures are carried out in advance, since after 2 weeks the soil in the hole will have time to compact and the seedling will be able to fit there.

After planting, the root collar of the plant should be 7-10 cm above ground level, again, due to the fact that the earth will still settle. After which the bush is watered, and when the water is completely absorbed, it is worth mulching the area around the trunk, this will protect the soil from drying out.

Watering juniper

During the period of active growth, it will be sufficient to water the plant only during periods of extreme heat or prolonged absence of rain. One adult bush requires 10-15 liters of water.

It will be an additional advantage if daily spraying is carried out in the evening after a stuffy day. The plant will thank you for this bright colors pine needles

Pruning is carried out when there is a desire to give the juniper unusual shape. You can also prune if dry branches or deformed areas appear on the plant.

If you are interested in creeping types of juniper, use propagation by layering. Young branches can be cut throughout the growing season; their rooting occurs faster than the rooting of woody shoots.
Layers are dug in and pinned near the old bush. The day before, river sand and peat are brought into the planting site and it is dug up so that the soil is light and loose. The cuttings are lightly hilled up and watered regularly, but they should not be flooded; excess moisture can cause root rot of the old bush and the death of the cutting from soaking.

After six months or a year, when the cuttings have taken root, they can be transplanted to the place where you plan to grow a new bush.

Propagation of juniper by layering is most often used for creeping forms of the crop. The procedure can be carried out throughout the growing season.

The procedure for this is as follows:

• The soil around the mother bush is intensively loosened, peat and river sand are added and watered abundantly.
• The lower part (20-25 cm) of healthy, recently ripened shoots, which are best suited for propagation, is cleared of needles.
• The bare area is pressed to the soil surface and secured with a wire pin.
• The part of the shoot in contact with the soil is sprinkled with peat-sand substrate.

Rooting of the cuttings will take about 6-8 months. During this time, it should be regularly watered and covered with moist soil. With the appearance of young growth on the cuttings, the shoot can be separated from the mother bush and planted as an independent plant.

Juniper aphids appear on young shoots. Aphids, when multiplying en masse, can cause harm to young plants, since by sucking out the sap, they greatly inhibit and weaken the plant, retard growth, and cause curvature and twisting of damaged shoots.

On young cones and needles you can see the rounded scutes of females and elongated scutes of males (up to 1-1.5 mm) of the juniper scale insect. In early June, larvae appear and attach themselves to the needles. The needles dry out and fall off, and young plants may die. By sucking sap from bark tissue, the larvae cause damage, leading to the death of the bark, drying out and bending of shoots, and a decrease in annual growth. It affects juniper, thuja, yew, and cypress.

Small mosquitoes, no more than 2.2 mm, fly near plants, then their larvae appear - spindle-shaped and covered with warts, up to 4 mm long, bright yellow, orange, or red. These are gall midges on juniper. The larvae secrete specific growth substances onto the needles, under the influence of which the plant cells begin to rapidly grow and divide, turning into galls. The larvae live and overwinter in them.

The needles are entangled in a thin, sparse web, covered with yellowish spots, later turning brown and crumbling. Spruce spider mite and its larvae damage young plants: juniper, biota, prickly spruce, Canadian spruce, common spruce, and western thuja. Over the summer, the female gives 3–4 generations. The mite causes the greatest damage in hot years to trees growing on dry soils. During the growing season, mites form from four to six generations, so the degree of damage increases towards the end of summer.

There are several methods for propagating juniper plants at home. For this purpose, seeds are used, cuttings are obtained, new specimens are obtained from branches and layering. But not all of these methods are equally effective and allow you to quickly obtain young plants. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages, and also requires compliance necessary conditions for successful cultivation of juniper.

Popular types of junipers

In modern landscape design, juniper is very popular. Juniper plants are distinguished by their varied shapes, colors, plasticity and unpretentiousness. They are suitable for implementing designers' ideas because they tolerate haircuts well. Depending on the type, juniper may have the form of a spreading tree, lush bush or crawl along the ground. Several types are most popular.

Cossack juniper is found naturally in the wooded part of European territory and in many areas of Asia. Typically, plants of this species are winter-hardy creeping shrubs. They are undemanding to soil composition, love light and tolerate lack of moisture well. Thanks to these qualities, their parts are used to strengthen slopes.

Creeping juniper is also called horizontal. In nature, plants of this species live in North America. This ground cover plant is used as decoration. retaining walls and slopes.

Varieties of common juniper are distinguished by their hardiness and ability to adapt to unfavorable conditions. They tolerate frost well, lack of light and water. These plants are distinguished by high decorative properties, and their slow development is an advantage for solving some design problems, for example, such varieties are suitable for growing bonsai.

Rock juniper lives in nature on the territory North America. These plants have an attractive conical shape, thanks to which they have gained popularity in landscape design. They are used for landscaping parks and squares, as well as for creating hedges.

Growing from seeds

Propagation of juniper from seeds is complex process. Even under natural conditions, this method is rare. Plants appear only a few years after the seeds fall into the soil, and fruiting is possible after 10 years.

In practice, such propagation of juniper is practically not used due to the duration and difficulty of the process and low germination.

At home for successful cultivation In this way, the plants are first stratified, that is, subjected to cold treatment. To do this, in the fall they need to be sown in boxes with soil and stored under snow until spring (at least 4 months). Then, if the seed coat is very dense, which happens in some types of juniper, it must be scarified to speed up germination, that is, damaged mechanically or exposed to acid. The easiest way to do this is to take two boards covered with sandpaper and rub the material between them.

In May, the prepared seeds are sown in the beds, planted to a depth of 2–3 cm. Then they are mulched and watered as needed. After the seedlings emerge, they are protected from the sun for the first 2 weeks. It is imperative to loosen the soil and pull out weeds. When the seedlings reach three years old, they can be dug up together with a clod of earth and planted on permanent place.

Propagation by cuttings

At home, cuttings are most often used to propagate juniper plants. They take root better, acclimatize successfully and develop faster.

Most good time for cuttings - in the spring, in this case, by the end of summer the seedlings will form strong roots. In the fall, young plants can be placed in open ground, providing a small shelter for wintering. If cuttings are carried out in the summer, the root system will not have time to grow stronger. In this case, in winter the plants should be kept indoors at home or in the country.

For successful reproduction, perform the following steps:

1. 1. Cuttings are harvested in cloudy or rainy weather. To do this, take branches 10–15 cm long and separate them with a sharp knife along with a piece of trunk wood.
2. 2. All needles and branches are removed from them to a height of 3–4 cm from the cut site. Prepared cuttings can be immediately planted in the ground. If this cannot be done, then they can stand in a jar of water for some time, but no more than 3 hours.
3. 3. To root the cuttings, they are planted in tall boxes with drainage holes, filled with a mixture of peat and humus in equal parts. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom, and sand (3–4 cm) is poured on top of the soil. The cuttings are buried 3 cm at an angle of 60 degrees, keeping a distance of at least 7 cm between them.
4. 4. The boxes are positioned so that they are illuminated by diffuse sun rays. Juniper does not like too high humidity, so watering is rare. Feeding during this period is also not needed.
5. 5. When planted in the ground in a permanent place, the cuttings are treated with growth stimulants. If creeping juniper reproduces, then it is placed horizontally, all other varieties - vertically.