Nature provides great diversity amazing plants. Some of them “share” theirs with us healing properties, others “delight” the eye with beauty. Without any doubt, actinidia combines these two qualities: it has a large number of substances useful to our body and adds exoticism to any garden.
Actinidia and its varieties
Actinidia is a perennial vine that climbs along supports to great heights. This is a dioecious plant. The leaves are leathery, with finely toothed edges. The plant is shade-tolerant, winter-hardy, loves moist loamy soil, open spaces, does not tolerate drought well. The fruits are greenish, with small seeds. Actinidia berries are rich in nutrients; their vitamin C content is second only to rose hips. This plant is well known among the people as a laxative, anthelmintic and antiscorbutic. The most valuable species is Actinidia kolomikta, from which two popular varieties have been developed - Ananasnaya Michurina and Clara Zetkin.
Pineapple Michurina is a vine 6-7 m high and produces a yield of about 5 kg, but only after the 6th year of growth. The fruits are dark green, flattened, have a pleasant sweet taste, with a pineapple aroma, weighing 2-3 g. The berries ripen in August, not at the same time, fall off easily, and can be stored for 3-4 days.
The Clara Zetkin variety has a bush-like shape and bears fruit from 5-6 years of age. The harvest can be harvested from August; the fruits are elongated in appearance, yellowish, have a pleasant sweet-sour taste and weigh about 3.5 g. They crumble slightly.
Reproduction of actinidia
Actinidia can be propagated using cuttings, shoots and seeds. To obtain cuttings, the upper part of the young vine is bent and secured in the groove with wooden hooks, after which it is covered with a 4-6 cm layer of soil so that the top rises 6-10 cm above the surface. In the fall, the young cuttings are separated from the plant and replanted.
Seeds are sown in beds or boxes at the end of September to a depth of 1 cm. When 2-3 leaves appear on the seedlings, they are transplanted (picked) into other boxes or beds. Under permanent place It is advisable to allocate semi-shaded areas for the growth of actinidia. The pit for planting seedlings should not exceed 1 m in diameter and about 60-70 cm in depth. The bottom of the hole is covered with a 10-centimeter layer of brick, and on top - with black soil mixed with 1.5-2 buckets of humus.
Since actinidia is a dioecious plant, male specimens are planted near female specimens. Dioecy is determined by the following characteristics: on male vines the flowers are collected in inflorescences of 6 or more pieces, on female vines they are solitary. In addition, on male plants, the upper side of the dark green leaves becomes fluffy white and then pink-red during the summer, and on female leaves By autumn a brownish color appears.
Actinidia: planting and care (video)
Features of growing actinidia
Seedlings planted in autumn are pruned short, leaving the two best stems with 3-4 buds. In spring, the weaker stem is removed. During the summer, several shoots grow on the stem. In the fall, after the end of the growing season, only the two most developed vines should be left on it, and the excess ones should be cut out. A year later, lateral vertical fruit-bearing shoots grow from them, from which fruit-bearing branches of the 2nd order develop the following year. It is better to prune bushes in the fall, since in the spring a lot of sap flows out when pruning. After three years, the vines are replaced with side shoots.
Wire supports must be placed under the plants. Actinidia roots are located close to the surface, therefore, in order not to damage them, loosening the soil should not be done deeply. The plant is watered abundantly throughout the growing season.
The use of fertilizers and fertilizers when growing actinidia
It is necessary to fertilize actinidia early spring, before flowering, and in autumn. It is best to use superphosphate (6-8 g per 1 sq. m) and humus (2-3 buckets) for this. It is very important to mulch the tree trunks with manure, sawdust or straw.
A ripe harvest must be harvested correctly and in a timely manner.
Ripe actinidia fruits have green and almost transparent.
Collect them on a cloth, shaking the plants slightly.
Actinidia care (video)
Reviews and comments
Marina 04/16/2016
This is the first time my actinidia is blooming, but the problem is that when I bought it, no one in the store said that it needed a pair. I still don't know if I'm having a boy or a girl. If you buy seedlings now, they are sold so small that you will have to wait several more years for them to bloom. What to do to achieve a harvest as quickly as possible?
IN garden stores Actinidia is becoming increasingly popular, the cultivation and care of which is very simple, and the result is pleasant. From the bush you can collect at least 20 kg of tasty fruits, depending on age. What is this? In order not to be verbose, let's say that one of the varieties of this plant is kiwi. So how should you care for your miracle relative to get a big harvest?
Brief information about actinidia
Actinidia is an ornamental and medicinal shrub vine that brings bountiful harvest. The homeland of the plant is China. In Primorsky Krai Far East you can often find wild actinidia, on the basis of which many winter-hardy varieties, capable of growing and bearing fruit in our conditions. Most often, we encounter the plant not in the form of a bush, but in the form of fruits, which include kiwi.
Due to their variegated leaves, actinidia are often planted in gardens for vertical gardening of verandas, houses, gazebos, pergolas, fences, and trellises. The plant is especially beautiful during the period when many buds bloom (early June). In August-September, large fruits weighing 13-18 g appear in their place.
Fruits can be eaten fresh, or made into jam, compote, marmalade, marshmallows, or added to baked goods. Sun-dried fruits taste somewhat like raisins.
Preparing for landing
Growing and caring for actinidia requires a number of manipulations on which the proper development of the plant depends. Due to the vulnerability of the root system, those seedlings that have it covered are purchased.
You should buy seedlings three years old and more. Moreover, these should be both male and female specimens in a ratio of 1-2:5, respectively, since actinidia is a dioecious plant and cross-pollination is possible only between plants of the same species.
The sex of the plant is determined by the structure of the flowers during the first bloom. The male specimen has buds with many stamens, but they lack a pistil. In addition, the flowers form inflorescences of 6 or more buds. Male plants are characterized by a dark green color on the upper side of the foliage, which during the summer becomes white with pubescence, and then pink-red.
The female plant has both stamens and a pistil, but the former do not participate at all in pollination. Flowers receive pollen from the wind, bees and bumblebees. Unlike the male plant, the buds here are single. As for the color of the foliage, by autumn the female bushes change it to brownish.
The buds are laid in the axils of the leaves on the branches of the current year. The duration of flowering is 10 days, after which ovaries form in place of the buds on the female plants, from which fruits of a light orange or yellow-green hue develop.
Selecting a location
Actinidia - climbing plant, so it is often planted along the walls of the house, fences, gazebos and other buildings. In addition, this arrangement protects the plant in winter period, and it rarely freezes.
In their natural environment, actinidia prefer the “openwork” penumbra of sparse forests, so when growing plants in the garden, it is advisable to choose a place with identical conditions and protect them from direct sunlight.
Actinidia does not like places where for a long time Water stagnates, so it is not recommended to plant it under drains and in tree trunks.
Correct fit
Caring for actinidia in the spring involves proper planting. The plant is undemanding to soil. In its natural environment, it grows in soil with a low content of phosphorus and nitrogen. Alkaline and clay soils. Sour, slightly acidic, or at worst neutral are preferred. This explains the impossibility of using lime as a fertilizer. It is preferable to plant plants in the spring, but it is also possible in the autumn 2-3 weeks before frost.
Autumn planting is carried out only for plants of the 2nd-3rd age.
For planting, dig holes 60*60 cm, putting 10-15 cm of drainage in them (pebbles, expanded clay, crushed stone). Add rich soil to each hole by mixing 2-3 tbsp. wood ash, 10 kg of humus and 0.15 kg.
As soon as the earth settles, they begin to plant the plants, having first poured a hill of soil that does not contain fertilizer into the hole, on which the seedling is placed. There should be a distance of 1.5-2.5 m between the bushes. After planting, the seedlings are watered (about 2-3 buckets per unit), the soil is lightly pressed down so that the root collar is level with the ground. The top is mulched with peat, sawdust, compost, and pine bark.
Supporting the plant vertically
After planting, it is immediately necessary to install supports for actinidia (frames, trellises) - two-meter concrete or wooden, between which wire is stretched in 3-4 rows. Orient the support frame from east to west. The plants are placed on the south side, forming them on a support in the form of a ridge or fan.
Actinidia care
Care includes watering, fertilizing, mulching and pruning. To moisten the plants, they should be sprayed well in the morning and evening. It is especially necessary to carry out the procedure in hot weather.
Growing and caring for actinidia during a long drought is as follows. To prevent the plant from losing its leaves, it is watered every week with 6-8 buckets of water per unit. Otherwise, after dropping leaves, the plant cannot grow new ones and will freeze in winter.
The procedure of tree-trunk loosening is carried out frequently, while simultaneously weeding, but not very deeply, so as not to damage the root system.
It is important for actinidia to receive fertilizers, as this increases its frost resistance, stimulates the growth of young shoots and helps increase productivity. The question of how to feed actinidia in the spring is resolved quickly.
In early spring, phosphate-, nitrogen- and potassium-containing fertilizers are applied in a ratio of 20:35:20 g per 1 m². When the fruits begin to set, a second “feeding” is performed, applying similar fertilizers, but in a ratio of 10-12/15-20/10-12 g per 1 m². The last feeding is carried out in mid-September, when the harvest is harvested, using a mixture of phosphorus and potassium, 20 g each. The fertilizer should be evenly distributed over the soil, and then dug to a depth of 10-12 cm and water each bush generously.
Trimming
To prevent thickening of the crown, pruning is carried out.
The procedure is performed only for actinidia that have reached 3-4 years of age.
Manipulations are carried out throughout the summer, after which the branches are placed on the actinidia support in the desired direction. They also do pinching, which stops the growth of branches.
To rejuvenate 8-10 year old plants, old skeletal branches are pruned, leaving only a stump of 30-40 cm from the vine.
Actinidia are not pruned in spring and autumn due to strong sap flow. Otherwise, the plant will die.
With the onset of autumn, young 2-3 year old vines are removed from their supports and covered with peat, dry leaves, spruce branches, at least 20 cm deep, after putting poison for rodents so that they do not dig nests. Adult actinidia do not need to be covered.
Reproduction
If you start growing a plant, then sooner or later you will be interested in how to propagate actinidia. The propagation process is quite simple, so a gardener can independently grow both male and female specimens. In this case, the gender and characteristics of the variety are inherited from the parent to the child (except for the use of the seed method).
Arc layering method
At the end of the spring sap flow and the blossoming of young foliage, the longest and most well-developed growth shoot is selected, tilted downwards with the tip and attached to the ground, sprinkling the pinning area with a 10-15-centimeter layer of soil. The hill should be watered and mulched with sawdust or humus.
In the fall or spring of next year, the cuttings and the mother bush are separated, and the baby is transplanted to a permanent location.
Cuttings
Gardeners are often interested in how to propagate actinidia from cuttings in the spring. This is done in two ways.
Cuttings from green shoots
With the onset of June, several strong annual branches 0.5-1 m long are selected, cut in the morning and immediately placed in a jar of water to prevent wilting. Each twig is divided into fragments of 10-15 cm and planted in soil (slightly acidic or neutral), into which humus and river sand are previously added in a ratio of 1:2, as well as chlorine-free soil (100 g is enough for 1 m²).
Planting is carried out at an angle of 60º, maintaining a distance of 5 cm between cuttings and 10 cm between rows. In this case, the middle bud on the branch should be located at soil level. The soil around the cutting is compacted, watered, and a two-layer gauze is placed on top, which is removed after 2 weeks.
Before the onset of winter, the cuttings are hidden under fallen leaves, and in the spring, before the foliage blooms, they are transplanted to a permanent place of growth.
Lignified cuttings method
According to this method, actinidia propagation is carried out as follows. Lignified cuttings are cut in late autumn, tied into bunches and stored vertically until spring in a box filled with sand at a maximum temperature of 1-5 ºC. Planting is carried out in a greenhouse and watered once every two days. They are cared for like green cuttings.
Seed method
After mashing the ripest whole fruits and then washing them, the resulting seeds are dried on paper in the shade. Then, in the first ten days of December, they are soaked for 4 days, filled with 2 cm of water, stratified and sown 0.5 cm deep in containers filled with a mixture of turf soil and river sand.
Seedlings should be sprayed and protected from direct sunlight. After 3-4 leaves appear, the young plants are transplanted into a greenhouse. Flowering occurs upon reaching 3-5 years of age, after which the plant is transplanted to a permanent place in the ground.
Diseases and pests
Plants are quite resistant to diseases and are rarely attacked by pests. If the rules of care are followed when growing actinidia, the bushes become practically invulnerable.
Among the diseases, the plant can be affected by phylostyctosis, fruit rot, powdery mildew, green or gray mold, and fungal diseases that cause spots on the foliage. If problems arise, the diseased parts of the plant are removed. For preventive purposes, plants are treated with Bordeaux mixture (1%) immediately after the appearance of buds. The procedure is repeated again after 2 weeks. To combat powdery mildew, double treatment is carried out (with a break of 10 days) baking soda(0.5% solution).
Among insects, leaf beetles and their larvae, which eat buds, foliage and fruits, as well as lacewings, caterpillars of the sultana moth, and bark beetles cause great harm to the plant. Spring brings relief autumn processing soil and the entire plant with Bordeaux mixture, which kills wintering or wintering pests and their larvae.
Oddly enough,…cats are also considered pests. After the snow melts, animals dig up the roots, thereby damaging them, and also eat young shoots. Therefore, as soon as the plants have been planted, they must be protected with a wire fence, buried 10 cm in the ground and making some kind of cover so that cats cannot penetrate through the top of the tree.
Proper care of actinidia will help to grow a healthy shrub, which will subsequently generously reward you with a large harvest of delicious fruits.
Video about growing actinidia
The woody vine actinidia is attractive for its tasty fruits with a high content of ascorbic acid, unpretentiousness (planting and caring for it is not difficult), and longevity (lives up to 40 years). In the temperate zone with cool summers and cold winters, many garden varieties of actinidia (kolomikta, arguta, polygam, purple, etc.) have successfully taken root.
Did you know? The name "Actinidia" comes from the Greek. Ακτινιδιον - ray. Actinidia were first described by Lindley in 1835, and in 1905 the plant was cultivated in New Zealand, the resulting fruit was named “kiwi” in honor of the New Zealand bird. Since 1909, I. Michurin has been actively engaged in breeding actinidia.
Planting actinidia seedlings
If you decide to plant actinidia on your site, then you need to use sprouts obtained by cuttings (actinidia grown from seeds lose their varietal characteristics). You can grow seedlings yourself, or you can buy them at a specialty store. When purchasing actinidia seedlings, two circumstances should be taken into account:
- How was the escape obtained? if the shoot grows from a bud, it is obtained from seeds, if it has a short trunk with lateral shoots, the shoot is obtained by propagation from a cutting).
- What gender is the plant ( actinidia is a dioecious crop, so for fruiting it is necessary to buy seedlings of both sexes).
Important! When purchasing actinidia seedlings, you should pay attention to the roots - they must be closed (in the ground, polyethylene, or a special container). Sunlight, heat, dry air can harm the plant. The most optimal age of a seedling is no more than three years (more “mature” plants tolerate replanting worse). The sex of the plant can only be determined by its flowers. Cuttings inherit the sex of the donor plant, so it is recommended to buy cuttings from faded plants.
Optimal planting dates
Growing actinidia largely depends on the time of planting. There is no unity among gardeners on the issue of optimal timing. Several options are possible:
- early spring, before the juices begin to flow;
- end of April - beginning of summer (after flowering ends);
- autumn (at least two to three weeks before the start of frost).
Soil composition
Actinidia prefer acidic and weak acidic soils(pH = 4 - 5), but they also grow well on neutral ones (with good fertilizer). Least suitable clay soils with a high level groundwater. Necessary Requirement For successful growth, the soil for actinidia must have good drainage. It is advisable to plant plants in elevated areas with natural drainage.
When planting actinidia in advance (two weeks in advance), you need to prepare planting holes (when decorating walls - trenches):
- 0.5 m - width, length, depth (the length of the trench depends on the length of the wall);
- drainage (brick chips, pebbles);
- on top of the drainage - enriched soil (humus (bucket), charcoal (50 g), superphosphate (250 g).
Good predecessors and neighbors of actinidia
The best predecessor is black currant (it loosens the soil without depleting it). The choice of “neighbors” is determined by the usefulness of the plant for actinidia. Beneficial effects are provided by:
- legumes - beans, beans, peas (improves the soil, maintains the desired moisture balance, improves the microclimate);
- black currant, hazel;
- flowers - petunia, gerbera, calendula, aster, etc. (do not dry out the soil, they decorate).
Important! Actinidia must be shaded until they reach 3 years of age (sun rays can cause burns to the root system and stems).
Correct fit
Before planting, actinidia seedlings are prepared as follows: dry or broken shoots are cut off, the roots are dipped in a clay mash, and a bucket of water is poured into the hole.
The root collar should be flush with the ground. You need to make sure that no voids are formed, trample the soil a little and mulch with organic matter.
To bear fruit, there must be one male plant for every three female plants. The distance between seedlings when planting is at least one and a half meters. Upon completion of planting, it is necessary to water the seedling with 2 - 3 buckets of water and protect it from direct contact sun rays gauze, paper, etc.
Did you know? You can determine which are female and which are male only by the flowers of actinidia: if in the middle of the flower there is a white ovary with stigma-rays, it is a female flower, but if the ovary is surrounded by stamens, it is a male.
Actinidia care basics
Correct fit and the complete absence of pests make caring for actinidia easier. For better plant growth and increased fertility, it is advisable to provide it with supports - trellises (galvanized wire between posts). 
Important! Planted cuttings from lignified actinidia cannot be replanted for at least two years - they root system should get stronger.
Watering and fertilizing the soil
Watering actinidia is moderate. Excessive moisture should not be allowed (the soil at the roots serves as an indicator). All actinidia love spraying the leaves with water dust (morning and evening).
Fertilizers are selected taking into account the preferences of the plant (slightly acidic and acidic soils) - potassium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, wood ash, etc. Categorically contraindicated chlorinated fertilizers such as lime and fresh manure.
Before feeding actinidia in the spring, after the snow melts, you need to shallowly loosen the soil near the roots (3 - 5 cm). Do not dig up - you can damage the roots. You need to feed:
Important! Actinidia are sometimes affected by leaf spot and gray fruit rot. Young plants (shoots and especially roots) can be eaten by cats. To preserve the roots, the planted sprouts are fenced with a metal mesh.
How to trim correctly
Caring for actinidia involves regular pruning of the plant.. Pruning is necessary for a young vine (for its proper formation) and an adult plant ( constant growth vines leads to thickening, darkening, and reduced yield).
When planning pruning, consider the following:
- The most optimal time for the procedure is considered to be the summer months, immediately after flowering has completed;
- in the fall, about a month before frost (in different regions frost dates may vary) - pruning is not recommended (awakened buds and young shoots will not ripen and frost will kill them). In the southern regions, sanitary pruning is carried out after the end of leaf fall;
- in early spring (when the sap moves through the vine), pruning is prohibited - any violation of the integrity of the plant is fraught with its death.
Important! Each actinidia variety has its own specific features that need to be taken into account when pruning. For example, in a kolomikta plant older than 8 years old, one old branch is cut off annually and replaced with a young shoot. Colomikt in the form of a bush bears fruit poorly and needs trellises. In Argut, the main vine lasts a lifetime, but it needs to be thinned out more intensively and cut shorter (short shoots bear fruit), etc.
Pruning young actinidia is associated with the formation of the plant. When deciding where to plant actinidia, you should consider how it will grow. For kolomikt, the most common fan formation is:- the first year - cut off the above-ground part, leaving 2 - 3 buds;
- the second year - all shoots are cut off, except 2 - 4 vertical ones (sleeves). After the end of leaf fall, their apical buds are cut off;
- third year - the strongest side shoots are selected and tied to the left and right trellises;
- the fourth and fifth years - further gartering of the strongest and fruit-bearing branches, pruning of weak, thin, broken and non-fruit-bearing branches.
Winter hardiness of actinidia
Actinidia varieties grown in our latitudes have fairly high frost resistance (kolomikta can tolerate frost down to -35...-45 degrees C). For the first 2 - 3 years of life, it is better to cover young plants for the winter with a cushion of leaves, spruce branches or polyethylene.
The greatest danger to vines is not low temperatures in winter, and spring frosts (young sprouts of actinidia, flower buds and buds are most sensitive to them). A temperature drop below zero by 8 degrees can destroy a young shoot.
Planting actinidia near a residential building partially neutralizes the risk of frost, but problems may arise from rainwater runoff from the roof.
Harvest and storage
Actinidia bears its first fruits upon reaching three to four years of age. Plants seven years old and older bear fruit regularly (one actinidia can produce from 12 to 60 kg of yield). Harvesting begins at the end of August and continues until frost.
The ripening period of berries of different varieties of actinidia is not the same:
- kolomikta- in mid-August (the fruits ripen unevenly and some of them may fall to the ground). Green fruits can ripen in warmth after being removed from the vine. For transportation and storage, it is better to collect slightly greenish berries;
- arguta and giralda - early September (they acquire a bright green color and tender flesh);
- polygamous- September (berry color - from yellow to orange);
- purple- end of September (berries do not fall off, purple color).
It is better to store fresh fruits in cool rooms with good ventilation (they absorb odors strongly).
Did you know? One actinidia berry provides a person’s need for vitamin C per day. The kolomikta berry contains 4 times more vitamin C than black currants and 13 times more than lemon. When actinidia berries are processed, all vitamins and active substances are preserved. The pectin in actinidia berries actively removes heavy metal salts and radioactive isotopes from the body.
Actinidia berries are stored:
- frozen (wash the berries, wipe and freeze);
- dried (wash and dry in oven (55 degrees);
- as raw jam (ground berries with sugar - 2 to 3);
- dried (washed berries are poured with hot syrup, heated for 7 minutes, the syrup is drained, the berries are dried in the oven for 15 minutes at 80 degrees.
Reproduction of actinidia
Actinidia reproduces quite simply. Vegetative propagation has advantages - it transmits the characteristics of the variety, sex, fruiting in the 3rd - 4th year. Seed propagation makes it possible to get more hardy plants, but fruiting begins from the age of 7.
Root suckers
Reproduction by root suckers is used for actinidia polygamum and kolomikta.
Did you know? Reproduction by root suckers is impossible in Arguta - this variety does not have root suckers.
Green and woody cuttings
Description of methods vegetative propagation actinidia, you need to start with the fastest and most common - cuttings. This method allows you to inherit varietal characteristics and obtain a lot of seedlings. Two options are used - green and lignified cuttings.
Green cuttings (the upper part of the shoot from 10 to 15 cm) are stocked in late May - early June (when flowering ends): a cutting with two to three buds and internodes. The lower cut of the cutting should be 45°, the upper cut should be straight. Cutting:
- planted for rooting in a planting hole with a substrate (drainage, 10 cm of a mixture of humus and sand and 5 cm of river sand), kept under a film, sprayed twice a day;
- after 30 days they begin to ventilate, from August they open it at night;
- for the winter they are covered with a cushion of leaves, and in the spring they are replanted.
To increase this indicator, the kilching method is used (a month before planting, the cuttings are placed on ice with their upper ends and closed - the development of the buds is suspended. The lower parts are kept warm. After 30 days, roots appear, then the cuttings are planted in open ground).
Dividing bushes
Dividing bushes is not often used in home gardens as a method of propagating actinidia, but if there is a bush-like plant on the site (it grows on poor soils, suffered from frost, without support, etc.). The bush is divided after leaf fall before frost or in early spring before the juices begin to flow. Each part of the divided bush should bear stems and roots at the same time.
Reproduction by taps
The method of propagation by layering is simple and effective. Under the vine, grooves are dug (7-10 cm deep), the soil in the grooves is mulched with humus, peat, and sawdust.
Caring for actinidia when propagating by cuttings in the spring includes placing the lower young shoots in the grooves, securing them, covering them with soil and regular watering. The tip of the shoot remains above the ground. Layers are separated for the next year.
Propagation by seeds
Actinidia from seeds are difficult to germinate. Therefore, in order to somehow speed up this process, the stratification method is used:
If you want to grow a plant called actinidia in your dacha, planting and caring for it is quite easy. Find out all the details about this exotic plant we can do it below.
The beginning and middle of autumn is the time when actinidia fruits can be collected. Most often they ripen in September. Actinidia is a relatively unpretentious, easy to grow tree that is not prone to disease. Thanks to this, it can grow even in not very favorable conditions.
Beginning and mid-autumn is the time when actinidia fruits can be collected
Although actinidia is still little known in colder climates, it is very valuable garden plant. Not only will it add decoration to your garden with its twisting stems, but it will also bear a harvest of delicious fruits.
The most common species is Actinidia deliciosa (kiwi), obtained from a Chinese plant. It was originally called "Chinese gooseberry". At the very beginning of the 20th century it was brought to New Zealand, where everyone liked it, and they decided to name it after the national bird - Kiwi.
Unfortunately, all cultivated varieties of kiwi do not have frost resistance and freeze at -10° C. The most frost-resistant variety is "Jenny", which can withstand frost down to -15° C, but its fruits are very small and tasteless.
Video about how to plant correctly
Actinidia arguta and kolomikta can withstand temperatures from -23°C to -35°C. They are seen as decorative elements garden, are ideal for cladding fences, walls, pergolas and gazebos due to their sufficient rapid growth. They also have tasty fruits, but in much smaller quantities. Their kiwi is smaller than the average grape.
IN orchards The Actinidia arguta variety (also known as mini kiwi or Hardy kiwi) is considered the best. It is relatively large and extremely. In order to produce fruit, Tara Loza needs a long growing season - about 150 days without frost. An adult plant can produce from 10 to 20 kg of berries.
Actinidia arguta and kolomikta can withstand temperatures from -23°C to -35°C
During this time, the climbing plant can grow up to 30-50 meters in height in the usual climate. In cooler zones it reaches up to 4-8 meters in height. Young plants have brown shoots that will change to gray as they age. The large, ovate green leaves turn yellow in the fall and fall off soon after.
- Geneva is an American variety, the earliest, loves a lot of sunlight.
The ripening of various species occurs at the very beginning of autumn. Berries have rounded shape and medium sizes (about 4 cm in length). Unripe fruits of this variety are reddish-brown in color.
They fascinate with their taste, as they are unusually sweet and aromatic. If the plant receives enough water, its fruits ripen much faster. They become quite soft and fall off.
This is a very prolific variety. It begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year after planting. It is not afraid of frost down to -30º C.
This variety of actinidia does not require any special care. The main thing is to loosen the soil around the plant every spring, when all the snow has completely melted away. Thus, she will be saturated with enough air.
- Issai is a dicotyledonous, self-pollinating variety.
It was invented in Japan. ripen in mid-autumn. The fruits have a sweetish taste. They are medium in size and oblong in shape (about 3 cm in length). The advantage of Issai is that it begins to bear fruit in the first year. The plant feels normal in frosts down to -25º C.
This variety has a height of only 3 meters, so it is suitable for small gardens. When caring for a plant, keep an eye on it proper watering. As soon as the soil around the plant becomes dry, you need to water it immediately. In hot weather, this needs to be done very often, even several times a day.
- Jumbo is a famous Italian variety.
It has large oblong and slightly elongated fruits (approximately 6 cm). The color of the berries can be either yellow or green. The largest berry can weigh up to 30g. The fruit is tasty and sweet, without a pronounced aroma, but persistent.
The color of the berries can be either yellow or green
The berries ripen in mid-autumn. A variety that bears fruit in the third or fourth year after planting. It grows up to eight meters in height and can withstand cold temperatures down to -28° C. Very important factor Feeding remains in caring for the plant. It is held at the very beginning of summer. To do this, you need to dilute one part of mullein with ten parts of water and thoroughly water the plant with this solution.
- Ken's Red is a variety from New Zealand.
It is a species of Actinidia arguta and melanaudra. Large fruits (up to 4 cm long and 3 cm in diameter). Durable and delicious berries, although without a characteristic aroma. They have a purplish-red hue in full sun and are green when in the shade.
They ripen in mid-autumn. Ripe berries are not overly soft, which makes them suitable for transportation. They are not afraid of frost down to -25º C.
The plant should not grow in an open clearing, because it really does not like direct sunlight. When caring for it, you need to take this fact into account. Water it as often as possible to keep the soil moist at all times.
- Kokuwa is a Japanese self-pollinating variety.
The berries have a lemon aroma. The fruits are small but strong. Ripening occurs in mid-autumn. When you care for your plant, try to be careful when pruning. By removing all unnecessary and dry branches, you will help the actinidia grow stronger and bear more fruit.
- Purpurna Sadowa is a famous Ukrainian variety.
Invented by crossing actinidia arguta and purpurea. Tasty and juicy fruits with a long shape and medium size (3.5 cm in length and 2.5 cm in diameter). The berries are purple-red. It bears fruit in the third or fourth year after planting. Ripening occurs in mid-autumn. Not afraid of frosts down to -25 º C.
Fertilize and water this variety. Since it was crossed in Ukraine, it loves a sufficient amount of water. Treat the plant for pests before it begins to bloom.
- Rogów is a variety that was invented in Poland.
He was crossed in Rogov. Quite tasty medium-sized berries (about 3 cm in length). The fruits are green and ripen in September. A very prolific variety. It begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year after planting. Not afraid of frost down to -30 ºС.
Every spring it is necessary to strengthen the roots of this plant. To do this, make a small pile of soil around the trunk of the plant. These actions will help strengthen the trunk from strong gusts of wind and protect the roots from unexpected spring frosts.
- VITIKIWI is a very beautiful and prolific variety that bears fruit without pollination (parthenocarpic).
It bears fruit for a year already. Green berries ripen in mid-autumn. This variety has a fairly high growth rate, so it is necessary to prune it on time. Rid the plant of unnecessary and dry branches.
- Weiki is a German dicotyledonous variety.
Male species are good pollinators for all Tara grape varieties. Females are very fertile. The fruits are tasty and medium in size (about 4 cm long).
Video about proper care
The berries ripen in mid-autumn, but they do not fall. They are usually green, but can sometimes develop a dark brown coating when exposed to direct sunlight. Shiny dark green leaves give the plant an attractive appearance.
The plant is suitable for decorative purposes and can produce up to 10 kg of fruit. Cats are very fond of this shrub and can damage it, scratch or bite the leaves, so it is better to secure the base with netting in the first three years.
Don't forget to fertilize it in early summer. When the plant is completely hardened, it can withstand frost and cold down to 40 degrees below zero.
Adam is a decorative Polish male variety.
When the plant is completely hardened, it can withstand frost and cold down to 40 degrees below zero.
It has beautiful variegated foliage and attractive male flowers. It is a good pollinator for all varieties of Actinidia kolomikta.
- Dr Szymanowski is a dicotyledonous variety that is of Polish origin.
It has leaves of extraordinary beauty and juicy fruits. Very prolific, it bears fruit already in the fourth or fifth year after planting.
- Sentyabrskaya is a prolific Ukrainian variety with attractive variegated foliage.
In the third or fourth year it begins to bear fruit. The berries can be picked in late summer and have pleasant aroma and delicate honey taste.
It is better to propagate actinidia stem cuttings, which split off in mid-summer. They should be grown in a special container for 1-2 years to ensure good rooting before planting permanently in the garden.
Video Actinidia - the northern sister of kiwi
How to plant actinidia? If you choose dicotyledonous varieties, you need to plant both male and female varieties in close proximity to each other (no more than 3-5 meters).
When planting a large number of actinidia, it is enough to plant one male species for every 7 female ones. These may be samples of different varieties, but they must belong to the same species.
Male species should be evenly distributed among the female ones and remember - their flowering should occur approximately in the same period.
For example, arguta blooms at the turn of May and June with small (1–2 cm in diameter) white flowers. The flowering period of kolomiktastarts occurs 7–14 days earlier. Its flowers are slightly smaller and have a faint lemon scent.
If you don't have enough garden space, it's best to put both species in one hole, or alternatively choose hermaphroditic varieties (but this method doesn't always work out).
- Boarding time
When to plant actinidia? There is no clear answer. After all, they can pollinate from spring to autumn.
Male flowers have more than a dozen racemes, and well-developed stamens with pollen that remains fertile for 5 days.
Female flowers may be individual, or in groups of two or three. They have a well-developed pistil, which is surrounded by sterile stamens. They can take up to 10 days to pollinate. The number and size of berries depend on the quality of pollination.
It is very important that both female and male flowers bloom at the same time. They are mainly pollinated by bees, in rare cases by the wind. Unfortunately, actinidia flowers are not very attractive, so you need a lot of insects to ensure good pollination. If there are no insects, try hand pollination.
Select just opened male flower and bring it to the female for 1-2 seconds. The pollen from one male flower is enough to pollinate about 10 female flowers.
Select a newly opened male flower and hold it close to the female for 1–2 seconds
When is it better to plant actinidia in autumn or spring? Planting in autumn is the best option.
Actinidia in general are a very sensitive species; in particular, they grow much better in warm, sunny areas protected from gusts of wind.
It is necessary to avoid their long stay in the cold. They are sensitive to unexpected spring frosts. If there are walls or a fence, they generate some heat and thus increase the chances of these delicate plants surviving in winter.
How to plant actinidia in the fall? All actinidia are most vulnerable during the first 3-4 years after planting, so during this period special attention should be paid to providing adequate protection from the cold, for example by placing mulch around the base of the plant.
- How to choose the right landing site
Actinidia grow well on various soils, although they prefer soils rich in organic matter. The soil should be well drained, moist but not swampy, and have acidity (pH 5–6.5). Since actinidia are shallow-rooted plants, excessive loosening of the soil should be avoided.
Video story about the kolomikta variety
When planting occurs, the plant must be placed on the ground, at the same level at which it stood for growing in a pot. Pour compost or well-rotted manure into the hole.
Actinidia require large volumes of water throughout the growing season and it is especially important to regularly water the plants during periods of intensive growth or when it is very hot. When planning to plant your actinidia, you must remember that large rivers and lakes are natural reservoirs of water.
Seedlings also require balanced feeding with macro and micronutrients. You need to start fertilizing in the second year after planting in the ground. You need to sprinkle the soil at the base of the plant, at a distance of about 20–80 cm from the trunk.
The simplest pruning helps control the development of excess branches, increases the rate of their germination and promotes the growth and development of fruits. It must be done in the spring.
This allows air to move through the branches and opens up the inside of the bush for maximum light penetration needed for optimal growth of flavor and fruit quality. Berries are collected in autumn and winter.
- In January-February (before the start of the growing season), you need to cut the branches 3-5 cm above the top of the support.
- In the second year, select a pair of strong side stems and branch them out to the sides, tying them to wire. In winter, trim their tips, leaving 8-12 shoots on each of them. In the spring, these buds will develop and begin to bear fruit the following year.
- Again they should be trimmed on the sides and pinched in August to encourage the formation of numerous buds.
- Every year in summer and winter you should remove all side shoots growing from the bottom of the trunk and avoid their excessive growth.
Every year in summer and winter you should remove all side shoots
If actinidia is used as ornamental plant– it can be left to grow without special supervision, periodically cutting off unnecessary branches. However, such a plant will begin to bear fruit much later, and they will be of poorer quality.
In order to achieve the best harvest, you must carefully monitor your actinidia and prune it on time, remembering that the berries lie on stems that form horizontally over 2-3 years.
In amateur cultivation, it is best if the plant grows along wires stretched between posts, on a wall or fence. It takes 3-4 years, but after that it will grow and bear fruit even after 50 years.
Video on how to prune a plant correctly
What you need to know about fruits
Actinidia usually begin to bear fruit in the fourth year after planting. When the fruits are unripe, it is better to put them in a plastic bag and leave them for several days at room temperature.
Video about medicinal properties
Actinidia fruits are very useful. They are completely devoid of fat, with low content sodium and are rich in vitamins (C and E), potassium and other microelements, including zinc, and are an excellent addition to a healthy diet. Argut fruits contain about 400 mg of vitamin C, which is 4 times more than in lemon or orange.
Try to grow actinidia in your dacha and you will not only get beautiful plant, but also tasty and juicy fruits that you will collect in the fall.
Of course, not everyone knows how to grow actinidia in the country, but many dream of an unusual liana in their own garden. Actinidia is a direct embodiment of exoticism and beauty; the plant has unique beneficial properties, and is also valued for its unique taste.
Choosing seedlings is a delicate matter
It is advisable to buy actinidia seedlings in special nurseries, where the plants are grown directly on site and not imported. It is better not to take seedlings from spontaneous and random markets. By purchasing unusual plant for a dacha, you need to remember simple rules that will eliminate most problems during subsequent planting in the ground:
- Actinidia has rather fragile roots; plants with bare roots are most susceptible to unfavorable conditions. If you leave a seedling with a bare root system for at least 7-12 minutes in the sun or strong wind, actinidia will disappear, and the surviving plants will grow and develop poorly, significantly inferior in growth. Buy planting material with closed roots (in a pot) with a lump of soil and well packaged. The optimal age of actinidia seedlings for planting is three years;
- Actinidia is one of the dioecious crops, so you need to buy male and female vines, otherwise actinidia may not bear fruit;
In the photo - actinidia seedling
- It is impossible to determine the sex of the plant before the vine blooms. Gardeners recommend buying actinidia in nurseries;
- Actinidia grown from seeds may lose the characteristics of the variety. It is recommended to purchase seedlings cultivated from actinidia cuttings, in which young stems grow from the lateral buds, the trunk looks like a stump. Seedlings obtained from seeds consist of a main stem emerging from a bud;
- The most common on sale is actinidia kolomikta, which differs in appearance. Has a hardened annual stem, intense juicy color, varying from green to rich coffee. Small bulges and tubercles are clearly visible on the bark light shades, so the shoot is a little rough to the touch. Other species of actinidia have smooth stems in light green tones with sandy and brown undertones.
Where to plant actinidia?
When planning to grow exotic plants in the garden, you need to consider natural conditions actinidia growth, where the vine grows in the partial shade of other plants and trees. When choosing a location, it is desirable to create an environment that is as close to natural as possible. In small areas, such a task may be overwhelming; where should actinidia be planted in this case?
Growing actinidia in the country requires the installation of a support (trellis) on which the vines will grow upward. You don’t need a lot of space; you can allocate land near the walls of country houses or houses; actinidia looks great in gazebos and hedges. Actinidia is very decorative at any time of the year. In spring it attracts attention with the beautiful green color of the foliage, in summer - extraordinary flowers. IN winter time intertwining vines under the snow carpet look impressive and unusual. In the month of August, actinidia leaves turn red and brown shades.
In the photo - actinidia growing near the house
In the photo - actinidia on an arch
Actinidia Arguta has dark green foliage in summer, which shimmers like a dense wall on the trellis; in autumn the leaves turn bright yellow. Polygamy in early September has light green and yellow leaves, among which orange berries ripen, not falling off even after the first frost.
Actinidia is a fairly shade-tolerant vine, but fruiting occurs with sufficient light. Plants are planted near the western or eastern walls in slight shade, but with sun exposure. If you don’t know what plants to plant next to actinidia, feel free to plant beans, beans or peas. Plants planted nearby will improve the soil and create a good microclimate for good growth creepers.
Actinidia grows on almost all types of soil, but does not accept alkaline soils. Acidic and slightly acidic soils are best suited; heavy loams are not desirable for growing vines. It is not recommended to grow a vine next to an apple tree; it is better to plant it near walnuts, currants, and gooseberries.
Rules for planting actinidia
The most common question, when to plant actinidia, misleads many and leads to mistakes when growing vines. Favorable times for planting actinidia are spring or the first month of summer; autumn is also suitable for planting. Actinidia are planted in the fall 14-20 days before the onset of frost. Usually, young seedlings, no older than 3 years old, are selected for planting.
Proper planting of actinidia presupposes the presence landing pit, which is preferably prepared in advance (a couple of weeks in advance). The width of the hole for the vine is 0.4-0.5 meters, it is dug to a depth of 0.5-0.6 m. A small layer (13-15 cm) of drainage material is placed on the bottom, using crushed bricks, pebbles, small gravel or broken slate.
Fertile soil mixture mixed with mineral supplements. For one actinidia plant, when planting, take a bucket of humus (more is possible), a glass of superphosphate, 1.5 tbsp. ammonium nitrate, 2 tbsp. potassium salt (can be replaced with potassium sulfate or wood ash). When planting, fresh cow manure and bird droppings, as well as lime, should not be added to the hole.
In the photo - actinidia harvest
Planting of actinidia begins when the soil shrinks slightly. Before planting in the ground, actinidia seedlings are watered abundantly. A small hillock is made from prepared fertile soil in a hole, on which the seedling is placed. When the vine is planted, the soil around it is compacted a little, keeping an eye on the root collar, which should be flush with the ground. The liana is watered and then mulched. Actinidia is not needed before planting or after pruning. In order for the plant to take root well and become stronger, it is recommended to shade the vine with kraft paper or a thin cloth for 12-16 days.
Actinidia often attracts pets with its smell; when growing, it is necessary to install fences from pets to avoid the death of the plant. Young actinidia plantings are mulched several times during the summer to maintain moist and loose soil.
In the evenings and mornings, actinidia leaves should be sprayed and hidden from bright sunlight. It is not recommended to loosen the soil in the root circle; actinidia roots are located in surface layer soil (up to 0.3 m) and can easily be damaged. Actinidia is covered for the winter with the help of ordinary fallen leaves and spruce branches. Young vines require special attention in the first 2-3 years of growth after planting; do not forget to monitor and care for the plants on time.
