Quince is a light-loving, pome-bearing fruit tree species that is very demanding in terms of pruning. Depending on the variety, quince trees are distinguished by height (from 2.5 to 4-4.5 m at the age of ten), the nature of branching, the strength of shoot growth and the shape of the crowns. The following types of crowns have been identified, reflecting the varietal affiliation: pyramidal (Muscatnaya, Kaunchi, Champion, Urozhaynaya, Orange), wide-pyramidal (Beretsky, Turunchukskaya) and spreading spherical (Desertnaya, Ispolinskaya Sorokskaya).
At first (the first five to seven years), quince is characterized by strong growth of shoots, reaching 1 to 1.5 m in length. Then, during fruiting, the strength and rate of their growth gradually weaken. Fruiting in quince is concentrated mainly on elongated annual growths (young trees and low-growing varieties: Zimovka, Maslenka late, Maslenka early) and on branched overgrowing generative branches (Azerbaidzhanskaya, Dessertnaya, Kaunchi). Generative branches are capable of self-rejuvenation with age, forming strong replacement shoots.
In the first years of fruiting, the main part of the harvest is formed on annual branches up to 50 cm long. On elongated branches, the buds are unequal: in the middle and upper parts they are predominantly generative, and closer to the base the terminal buds are, as a rule, vegetative. In order not to reduce the yield in this period, you should not overuse the shortening of branches, especially if it is severe.
Like other pome-bearing species, the generative bud of quince is of a mixed type. Having started to grow, it first forms a fruitful shoot (peduncle), at the top of which, when it reaches a length of 5-15 cm or more, a single flower appears. Over the course of several years, from shortened quince branches of different ages, branched overgrowing generative formations are naturally formed, the productive age of which is five to ten years.
In industrial plantations, most quince trees are formed on a low trunk in a sparsely layered type. In recent years, crowns with an open center have become increasingly practiced. After planting, the unbranched annual plant is pruned at a height of 60-70 cm from the ground surface. In the second year, when creating a sparse-tiered crown from the resulting branches, one is left for the central conductor and usually three, located for greater strength of fusion with the trunk after 10-20 cm, for the future main branches of the lower tier.
In trees of wide-crown varieties, four evenly spaced branches are allowed at the base of the crown. The optimal angles of inclination of the branches are 45-50°. Competitors and extra branches growing at an acute angle are cut out. The elongated thin branches directed upwards droop and break under the weight of the harvest, which is facilitated by the insufficient strength and pronounced fragility of quince wood. Up to three to five main branches of the first order are laid above the lower tier.
To prevent denudation and encourage the formation of new shoots, pruning of quince trees in the first years is carried out sparingly. The central conductor is shortened at a distance of about 50-60 cm from the base of the upper single branch, which, to subordinate to the leader, is cut 20-30 cm below its top.
Continuation Features of quince pruning (part 2)
When growing quince, tree-shaped formation is most often used, which allows you to get a compact plant that is easy to care for. Regular and proper pruning will not only give the tree a beautiful shape, but will also make it much easier to care for and harvest.
How to trim?
If you decide to grow quince as a tree, the first thing you need to do is remove the standard, that is, the central, main trunk. To do this, leave one, the most important, shoot, and cut out all the rest of the growth from the root.
Now you can proceed directly to the formation of the crown itself:
- At approximately a height of 50-70 cm from the soil level, shorten the top of the central (and so far only) trunk.
- When the seedling produces side branches next year, they also need to be shortened, leaving no more than 40 cm.
- Proceed in the same way with each subsequent group of lateral new growths, cutting them off at a height (length) of 40 cm and branching the crown.
All root growth that forms during the growing season must be completely cut out.
It is worth considering that too strong will only do harm: it will delay fruiting and cause active growth of shoots, which will lead to thickening of the crown.
When to prune?
To speed up the formation of the crown, formative pruning can also be carried out in the summer. In this case, at the beginning of summer, annual shoots are shortened, and until the end of July only wen are cut out. In addition, removing the central shoot will help curb crown growth. This should be done in the summer, leaving side branches, then the tree will grow not in height, but in width.
In the spring, the young branches formed in the summer must also be shortened. At the same time, the work to restrain the growth of the crown does not stop, and of the young shoots only the horizontal lateral ones are left, and the central ones growing vertically are completely removed, unless the goal is to get a large tree.
To speed up the onset of fruiting, you can cut fruit buds.
General principles of forming and pruning quinces
When pruning, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:
- from the root to the beginning of the crown (location of lateral branches) should be at least 50, but not more than 70 cm;
- the maximum number of branches on a tree is 15 pieces, of which 2-3 five-year old branches, up to 4 pieces of three-year and two-year shoots and young growth (if you leave more, the crown will be thickened, which will affect both the appearance and fruiting);
- since after reaching the age of five the yield on such shoots drops significantly, they must be completely removed and replaced with young growth);
- Pinching vertically located branches should be carried out before budding begins.
In addition to shaping, the quince must be constantly maintained in good condition. To do this, in the spring, shoots growing inside the crown and vertically towards the ground, in contact with it, are removed, as well as all dry and damaged branches.
Common quince, or oblong quince (lat. Cydonia), is a monotypic genus of woody plants of the Rosaceae family, distributed in nature in Central Asia, Transcaucasia and the Caucasus, as well as in temperate regions of Asia, Central and Southern Europe, where it grows on forest edges, clearings and clearings, along the banks of rivers and streams, in the lower mountain belt. Quince prefers loose, moist and fertile sandy, heavy loamy, red and chernozem soils.
In cultivation, quince is cultivated not only in the hot climates of South Africa, Australia and Oceania, but also in the Americas and even in cool areas such as Scotland and Norway. The quince has been known to mankind for more than 4,000 years - it was its fruit, believing that the quince was a type of apple tree, that was given to Aphrodite, who defeated other contenders in a dispute about beauty.
- Landing: in spring or autumn - at the end or beginning of the dormant period.
- Bloom: May June.
- Lighting: bright sunlight.
- The soil: any, but preferably loose and heavy.
- Watering: regular, 4-5 waterings per season. Young seedlings require frequent watering. The first watering of a fruit-bearing quince is before the start of flowering, the second - during flowering, the third - after the excess ovaries fall off, the fourth - during the period of shoot growth, the fifth - during the period of fruit growth. Young trees stop watering at the end of August, and mature trees at the beginning of September. When watering a young tree, about 400 liters of water are consumed, and an adult tree – up to 800 liters. The soil should be wet to the depth of the roots - 80-100 cm.
- Feeding: organic matter is added to the tree trunk soil once every 2 years, minerals – three times a year: in spring, summer and autumn.
- Trimming: the main one is in early spring, before the start of sap flow. In the fall, if necessary, sanitary cleaning is carried out.
- Reproduction: seeds, cuttings, root suckers, layering and grafting.
- Pests: fruit mites, codling moths, apple aphids and leaf-mining moths.
- Diseases: fruit rot (moniliosis), powdery mildew, rust, ovary rotting, brownishness of leaves and gray rot of fruits.
Read more about growing quince below.
Quince tree - description
Quince is a deciduous shrub or tree from one and a half to 5 m high with branches that rise obliquely upward. Quince bark is scaly, thin, smooth. Old branches and the trunk of quince are dark gray or dark reddish-brown, and on young branches the bark is fleecy, gray-brown. The shoots are also tomentose, gray-green in color. Quince leaves are alternate, entire, oval or ovate, usually broadly elliptical, sometimes round, on the upper side of the plate glabrous, dark green, on the lower part glaucous with felt pubescence. The length of the leaves is from 5 to 12 cm, the width reaches 7.5 cm, the petioles are up to 2 cm long. Quince flowers, mostly solitary, regular, on pubescent pedicels, bloom in May or June.
The quince fruit is a false fleecy apple of lemon or dark yellow color, round or pear-shaped, which contains five multi-seeded nests. The diameter of the fruits of wild trees is from 2.5 to 3.5 cm; in cultivated forms, apples can reach a diameter of 15 cm. The quince pulp is very aromatic, but hard and slightly juicy, its taste is astringent, tart and sweetish. Quince fruits ripen in September-October. Quince lives on average up to 60 years, actively bears fruit for 30-50 years, and begins to bear fruit after 3-4 years of growth.
Quince is a relative of many garden trees - apple, pear, plum, cherry plum, medlar, hawthorn, rose hip, almond, serviceberry, rowan, chokeberry and other plants known in cultivation. Quince fruits are used to make jam, jelly, marmalade, compotes, drinks; it is eaten as a seasoning for meat. Traditional medicine widely uses quince to treat constipation, colitis, flatulence, uterine bleeding, respiratory tract diseases and gastrointestinal diseases. Blooming quince is an amazing sight, so it is often used by landscape designers to design public gardens, parks and public gardens.
We will tell you about how to plant and care for quince, how to grow quince on a personal plot, how to feed quince to stimulate abundant fruiting, what diseases and pests of quince can cause you trouble, how to treat quince when it gets sick, how to graft quince, how to form a quince by pruning - you will find this and many other information in our article.
Planting quince
When to plant quince
Quince is thermophilic, it tolerates drought well, in addition, it does not even tolerate monthly floods, so it grows well in places with shallow groundwater. The best place for quince is an open area on the south side. Despite the fact that quince grows on any soil, it bears fruit best on well-loosened heavy soils, and on light sandy loam soils, quince, although it will begin to bear fruit earlier, will produce more modest harvests and will live shorter. Quince should be planted during the dormant period - in spring or autumn.
Planting quince in autumn
If you purchase annual quince seedlings for planting, then you can buy planting material with an open root system, but if the seedlings are older, then choose those with an open root system so that you can assess its condition. When planting quince, keep in mind that the roots of an adult plant can occupy an area several times larger than the crown projection area, so place pits for planting quince at a distance of at least 5 m from other trees and buildings.
Anyone who decides to plant a quince in the fall should start preparing the site for it in the spring: dig the soil to the depth of a spade bayonet while simultaneously adding 50 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt per m². After digging and applying fertilizer, the area is lightly watered. When it’s time to plant quince, dig a hole in the area about 40 cm deep and with a diameter of 45 to 90 cm - the width of the planting hole depends on the size of the root system of the seedling. Drive a peg into the center of the hole to secure the tree, lay a layer of clay on the bottom, then fill a third of the remaining depth with fertile soil mixed with 50 g of wood ash and 150 g of superphosphate.
Then place the seedling in the hole, straighten its roots, fill the hole with soil, tamp it lightly and water the seedling generously - at least 2 buckets of water will be required for one tree. When the water is absorbed, tie the seedling to a peg and mulch the tree trunk circle with a thick layer of humus or peat.
How to plant quince in spring
Quince is planted in the ground in the spring in the same order as in the fall, however, the site is dug up with the application of fertilizers in the fall, and the layer of mulch in the root circle after planting may not be as thick as on the eve of winter - not 10, but 5 cm.
Quince care
Caring for quince in spring
In early spring, before the sap begins to flow, quinces are sanitized, removing dry branches broken under the weight of snow and diseased branches. After this, you can carry out formative pruning of young trees or rejuvenating pruning of old ones. At the beginning of bud bloom, carry out a “blue” spraying of the quince - treatment with a three percent solution of Bordeaux mixture. Just don’t be late - if the buds have already opened, the Bordeaux mixture can damage them. At about the same time, the trunks and base of the quince skeletal branches should be whitened with lime and a complete mineral fertilizer should be added to the soil.
For a pink bud, quince is treated against aphids, sawflies, moths, moths, leaf rollers, as well as against powdery mildew with a solution of 3 ml of Fastak or a similar preparation in 10 liters of water.
Before flowering and immediately after it, it is necessary to water the quince abundantly, adding complex mineral fertilizers to the water.
Ten days after flowering, in May, preventive treatment of quince against sawflies, leaf-eating pests, scab and fruit rot should be carried out with Topaz or its analogues.
Caring for quince in summer
In June, quince are treated against codling moths, lacewings, aphids, moths and leaf rollers with a solution of 6-8 ml of Sonnet in 10 liters of water. In the future, throughout the summer period, in order not to abuse pesticides, quince treatments are carried out selectively and only as necessary.
Quince in the summer, just like in the spring, needs weeding and loosening of the soil in the tree trunk circle and between the rows. If the tree trunk circle is mulched, then you will have less work. In July, quinces are fertilized with complete mineral fertilizer.
Quince in August and September ripens, so treatments against diseases and pests should be stopped a month before harvest.
Caring for quince in autumn
At the end of September, in October or November, the fruits are removed from the quince, and after harvesting, the trees are treated with a five percent urea solution against scab. In autumn, water-recharging watering of quinces is carried out. After leaf fall, when the trees enter a dormant period, thinning, rejuvenating and sanitary pruning of trees is carried out. In November, quinces are prepared for winter.
Quince processing
Even if the quince in the garden is completely healthy, annual preventative treatments against pests and diseases will help it maintain health and strengthen its immunity. The first treatment is carried out on still dormant buds with preparation No. 30 in order to destroy insects that have overwintered in the bark and in the soil. The second and third preventive treatments are carried out before and after flowering: the green cone of the quince is sprayed against fungi with Abiga-Peak or one percent Bordeaux mixture, and in May, on the buds, the tree is treated against leaf rollers with Kemifos, and against fungi with Horus. After flowering, quince are treated together against codling moths and fungi with Strobi and Inta Vir.
In June, during fruit growth, the trees are sprayed with Skor and Lepidotsid, and in July quinces are treated against fungi and the second generation of codling moths with Kemifos and Strobi.
A month and a half before harvest, it is advisable to stop all treatments, and only late varieties of quince are sprayed with Kemifos, if necessary.
In the fight against insects, drugs such as Karbofos, Metafos, Actellik, Aktara, Decis, Zolon, Arrivo, Fufanon, Confidor have proven themselves well. And fungicides such as Bayleton, Quadris, Maxim, Oxychom, Ridomil, Strobi, Topaz, Tiovit Jet, Topsin, Falcon, Fundazol, Fitosporin and others are effective against fungal diseases.
Watering quince
Growing quince requires regular moisture - 4-5 waterings per season. Young seedlings are watered frequently, but mature, fruit-bearing quinces require the first watering only before flowering, especially if there is no rain in spring. The second watering is carried out during flowering, the third - after the ovaries fall off, the fourth - when the shoots begin to grow, and the fifth - when the fruits are formed and begin to grow.
Young quince stop watering at the end of August, and mature trees - at the beginning of September. The soil in the area with quince is moistened to the depth of the roots - 80-100 cm. Water consumption for young trees is 400 liters per watering, and for adults - 800 liters. Quince can tolerate both drought and flood, but both have a bad effect on the quality of its fruit, so regular and sufficient watering of quince is the key to a successful harvest.
After watering, it is very convenient to weed out the grass and loosen the soil in the tree trunk and in the rows to a depth of 8 cm.
Feeding quince
The fertilizers placed in the soil during planting should be enough for the seedling to last a year. If you added organic matter to the soil in the form of humus or compost, then the next time organic fertilizers will need to be applied in two years, and mineral fertilizers are applied three times annually - in spring, summer and autumn.
In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are scattered around the tree, after flowering, the soil around the quince is watered with a solution of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the rate of 200-300 g per 10 liters of water, and in August the quince is fed at the rate of 30-40 g of potassium and phosphorus fertilizer per m². In addition, every spring and every autumn the tree trunk circle is mulched with a layer of peat or compost at least 5 cm thick.
Wintering quince
The danger of winter cold for quince is that its root system is located horizontally at a very small depth and can be damaged by frost. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the area of land around the tree and the lower part of the trunk with humus or dry leaves for the winter. When the snow falls, try to throw a snowdrift under the tree, and then you won’t have to worry about the quince until spring. In areas with very cold winters, quinces are additionally insulated by wrapping them in lutrasil or spunbond, and then tied with spruce branches.
Quince pruning
When to prune a quince
The main pruning of quince is carried out in early spring, before the sap begins to flow. Dry and disease-affected branches are cut out and burned, thinning and rejuvenating pruning is carried out on old trees, and trees up to five years old are subjected to formative pruning. In the summer, in August, the ends of the rapidly growing quince shoots are pinched. Quince in the fall, after leaf fall, when the trees enter the dormant period, only needs sanitary and thinning pruning.
How to prune a quince
The crown of a tall quince is formed like a bowl with an open center, from 4-5 skeletal branches located at a distance of 15-20 cm from one another, and in low-growing varieties they form a sparse-tiered crown of 8-10 branches, on which lateral branches are evenly placed . The height of the trunk of a quince tree should not be large - only 40-50 cm, otherwise pruning a quince is very similar to pruning an apple tree.
Pruning quince in spring
The first pruning of a spring seedling is carried out immediately after planting, and if you planted a quince in the fall, cut it next spring to a height of 50-60 cm, leaving 7-8 buds, from which the lower tier will be formed - four or five branches growing at a distance of 10- 15 cm from each other, and the next, second tier of branches, located 30-40 cm higher.
A year later, next spring, the conductor (the central branch of the quince) is cut at a height of 20-30 cm from the level of the skeletal branches to the outer bud, and the annual growths on the lower tier are shortened to 50-60 cm, thereby forming second-order branches. Do not cut off side branches, except those that thicken the center of the crown or those that compete with the conductor. Remove all root shoots. By the beginning of fruiting, that is, by 3-4 years, the crown is usually already formed.
Pruning quince in autumn
From the fifth year of growth, quince only needs to maintain the shape of the crown - it is better to continue to do this in the spring. And in the fall, after the leaves fall off the quince, it is subjected to sanitary pruning - diseased branches that dry out and are broken during fruiting or harvesting are removed, as well as those that thicken the crown or grow in the wrong direction.
Quince propagation
How to propagate quince
Quince is propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering, root suckers and grafting. Moreover, unlike other crops, the simplest method of propagation is by seed.
Propagation of quince by seeds
From ripe quince fruits, collected no more than a month ago, remove the brown seeds, rinse them in warm water, place them indoors on a dry cloth or paper and dry. These seeds are suitable for sowing for six months. You can sow them before winter, or you can do it next spring, but then during the winter they must undergo stratification - store them until spring, mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:3, in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator, after soaking them for 5- 6 hours in water.
If you decide not to delay sowing until spring, in October, sow the seeds in open ground to a depth of 2-3 cm, and mulch the crop with peat or humus on top. The distance between the rows should be 20-25 cm, and the density of sowing seeds per 1 linear meter of land should be no more than 100 seeds. In the spring, wait for the seedlings to emerge and thin them out twice: the first time, leaving 10 cm between seedlings, and the second time – 15-20 cm.
If you put the seeds in the refrigerator in February, then in April you can sow them directly into open ground using the method we have already described. But if you placed the seeds for stratification in December, then at the end of February or beginning of March you need to sow them 2-3 pieces in peat pots to a depth of 2-4 cm and grow them like any seedlings. With the onset of warm weather, the seedlings are gradually hardened and then planted together with the pots in pre-dug to the depth of a shovel and moistened soil at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.
After planting, the area is watered and then mulched. In the development phase of two true leaves, the seedlings are thinned out; after three weeks, thinning is repeated.
In the fall, seedlings that have reached a height of 40 cm are transplanted to a permanent place.
Reproduction of quince by root suckers
Root shoots are root shoots that you are constantly being told to fight. It is worth knowing that quince grown from root suckers usually produces small fruits and has a less developed root system. To grow good seedlings from offspring, take into account our advice: if you have formed basal shoots at least 5 mm thick and 15-20 cm high, hill them higher so that the soil fits tightly to the shoot. After three weeks, repeat the hilling. In the fall, separate the shoots from the mother bush and plant them. For the winter, mulch the soil around them with wood chips or humus.
Quince propagation by layering
Quince is also propagated by arcuate or horizontal layering. The difference between these types of layering is that when propagated horizontally, the entire shoot, except for the tip, is buried in a furrow 10 cm deep, and it is fixed in this position in the furrow every 15 cm, and the arcuate layer is immersed in the furrow only with the middle part.
You can grow vertical shoots from lateral buds, and when they reach a height of 15-20 cm, they are hilled up to half their height, watered all summer, protected from weeds, and after leaf fall they are separated from the mother plant and planted in a permanent place.
Quince propagation by cuttings
In June, in the morning, before the heat sets in, green cuttings are cut so that each has 1-2 internodes with a heel up to 1 cm long. The lower cut of the segments is treated with Kornevin, after which the cuttings are planted at an angle in a mixture of sand and peat in ratio 3:1 at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other. It may take 30 to 40 days for cuttings to root at a temperature of 20-25 ºC. As soon as rooting occurs, the cuttings can be planted in a permanent place.
You can also use lignified cuttings 25 cm long for propagation, in which the lower cut passes immediately under the bud, but they need to be rooted in the same sand-peat mixture in a greenhouse.
Quince propagation by grafting
As a rootstock for grafting cultivated quince cuttings, seedlings or hawthorn rootstocks grown from quince seeds are used. Provencal and Angers quince are considered the best varieties for growing rootstocks. Quince budding is carried out on a one-year-old rootstock in the first two weeks of August. However, more often quince is used as a rootstock for other crops, and not vice versa, so it is better to propagate quince not by grafting, but by other methods described by us. If you still decide to try budding a quince, find a section on the website about how to graft an apple tree.
Quince diseases
Most often, quince is affected by fruit rot, or moniliosis, powdery mildew, rust, rotting of the ovaries, brownishness of the leaves and gray rot of the fruit.
Moniliosis- a fungal disease that spreads in temperate zones in damp and humid spring, as well as in the first half of summer. First, the disease affects fruits that have mechanical damage: brown spots form on them, quickly increasing in size, their flesh becomes loose, loses its taste, as a result, the fruits fall off, but some of them turn blue, harden, but remain on the branches.
Control measures. Against fruit rot, quince is treated with Abiga Peak, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, Rovral, Teldor and other fungicides of similar action.
Brownish leaves manifests itself as many brown round spots on quince leaves. As the disease progresses, the leaves dry out and fall off prematurely.
Control measures. After flowering, treat the quince with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture. Collect and burn fallen leaves.
Powdery mildew appears at the ends of annual young shoots as a whitish or reddish coating, which, with the development of the disease, turns into a dense brown film with black dots - the fruiting bodies of the fungus. The shoots stop developing, the leaves become deformed, the ovaries crumble, and the quince dries out at the growing points.
Control measures. Immediately after flowering, the quince is treated with fungicides; after two to three weeks, spraying is repeated.
Rust– The symptoms of this fungal disease appear as orange-brown bumps on the upper side of quince leaves, and oval or round pustules form on the underside. Over time, the spots turn into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely.
Control measures. Treatment of quince from rust involves treating the tree twice with fungicides after the leaves bloom, with an interval of 2 weeks.
Rotting of the ovaries– this disease is also fungal in nature: first, dark spots appear on the leaves, gradually spreading throughout the entire leaf, and during flowering, pathogenic spores penetrate the buds and flowers, destroying the ovaries.
Control measures. As a preventive measure, sanitary pruning of diseased and broken branches, as well as the destruction of dry fruits, is considered. Good results are obtained by treating quince with a solution of Fundazol during flowering and immediately after it.
Gray rot manifests itself as necrosis - rapidly increasing brown spots on shoots and leaves. During periods of high humidity, the affected areas become covered with a fluffy coating. The causative agent of the disease is omnivorous and easily moves from one plant to another.
Control measures. Treatment of quince with Kuproksat, Oksikhom, Champion, or Topaz is effective in combating the disease.
In order to prevent quince disease, it is enough just to follow the agricultural practices of the crop:
- keep the soil under the crown clean;
- after harvesting, carry out preventive treatment of trees with a solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate;
- in early spring, using preventive treatment with the same copper-containing preparations, destroy pathogenic microorganisms that have overwintered in the soil around the tree trunk or in the bark of trees.
Quince pests
Quince is very resistant to pests, and usually a healthy tree does not have problems with insects. But still, sometimes quince can be occupied by fruit mites, apple moths, apple aphids and leaf-mining moths.
Control measures. After flowering ends, the quince is treated with a one percent solution of Fundazol or a one and a half percent solution of Dipterex. And, of course, it is necessary to keep the tree trunk area clean.
Fruit mites– brown and red – dangerous for almost all fruit crops. Their larvae oppress young shoots and buds, feed on their juices, and as a result the garden begins to “cry” - secrete juice from the wounds.
Control measures. Treating the tree during leaf fall with a seven percent urea solution prevents the appearance of mites on quince.
Aphid omnivorous and harmful to any plant. It feeds on the sap of leaves and young shoots, causing them to curl and become deformed, their growth stops and a black coating of sooty fungus forms on them. The worst thing is that aphids are carriers of viral diseases, for which there are no drugs yet.
Control measures. Aphids can be controlled by any of the insecticides listed in the article. There are also time-tested folk methods of combating this pest, for example, a solution of a grated piece of laundry soap in a bucket of water, which needs to be used to treat not only the top side of the leaves, but also the bottom. Folk remedies for fighting aphids are good because they can be used often without any harm to the plant.
codling moth It can even gnaw through a walnut fruit. Her butterflies fly out of the ground immediately after the quince blooms. They are very prolific and manage to breed two or three generations in one season. Each codling moth caterpillar can damage several fruits during its life.
Control measures. Treatment of quince with biological preparations is effective against this pest, for example, a solution of 40-80 g of Bitoxibacillin or 20-30 g of Lepidocide, or 30-50 g of Dendrobacillin in 10 liters of water.
To avoid having to resort to treating quince with pesticides during the period of active growth, to protect the plant from the invasion of harmful insects, it is enough to follow the agricultural practices of the crop - for example, regularly weed and remove carrion from the area, mulch the tree trunk circle with peat or humus, use hunting belts that prevent crawling insects to the crown of the tree, as well as carry out sanitary pruning of disease-affected branches and shoots in early spring, followed by burning them.
And, of course, carry out preventive treatments of quince with a seven percent urea solution in early spring and late autumn.
Quince varieties
Among the cultivated varieties of quince, a distinction is made between oblong quince, or common quince, and Japanese quince. Both of these plants belong to the Rosaceae family, but are not species of the same genus, since Japanese quince belongs to the genus Chaenomeles, and, therefore, we will not talk about it today. Quince oblong, or common quince, being a monotypic genus, is represented by a large number of varieties, which, according to ripening periods, can be divided into early, mid-ripening and late.
Early quince varieties
The most famous early ripening quince varieties include:
- Oiler early– this variety ripens at the end of September. The fruits of Maslenka early are large, yellow-lemon in color, weighing from 190 to 350 g, round-conical in shape, ribbed, smooth. The pulp has a strong aroma, medium density, fine-grained and juicy, sweet and sour taste, white with a yellowish tint. During storage, the fruits become sweet and their astringent properties disappear;
- Crimean aromatic- a productive frost-resistant variety, resistant to subcutaneous spotting and ripening in the third ten days of September, with apple-shaped, smooth lemon-yellow fruits of medium size. The pulp is yellowish in color, juicy, and has a sour taste;
- Juicy– a winter-hardy and drought-resistant productive variety with medium-sized fruits weighing up to 250 g with yellow juicy pulp with a sour-sweet taste;
- Harvest Kuban– a high-yielding, winter-hardy, drought- and disease-resistant variety with very large fruits weighing up to 500 g with creamy, juicy pulp with a sweet and sour taste;
- Skorospelka– a high-yielding and disease-resistant variety for technical purposes with small-sized fruits with sweet and sour pulp of mediocre taste, which are not consumed fresh.
In addition to those described, such early ripening quince varieties as Aurora, Anzherskaya, Zolotistaya, Gold of the Scythians, Rumo, Nikitskaya, Zolotoy Shar, Kollektivnaya, Krasnoslobodskaya, Podarochnaya and others are popular.
Medium quince varieties
Medium-ripening quince varieties include those that ripen in the first half of October. These include:
- Kaunchi 10– Central Asian productive drought-resistant variety with average winter hardiness. The pear-shaped fruits of plants of this variety are medium in size, with a smooth, sometimes slightly ribbed surface, covered with gray felt pubescence, which is easily erased. The color of the fruit is yellow-orange, the aromatic cream-colored pulp is dense and sweet;
- Kubanskaya- a fast-growing variety, but its winter hardiness, as well as its drought resistance, is average. The fruits are small, weighing up to 250 g, round-cylindrical, slightly ribbed, heavily pubescent with gray felt pile, which disappears when ripe. The color of the fruit is orange-greenish. The pulp is creamy, juicy, sweet, with low acidity, medium density, stony cells located near the seed chamber;
- Astrakhan- a high-yielding quince variety with pear-shaped fruits of light yellow color of medium size and weighing up to 200 g. The pulp of the fruits is dense, creamy-yellow, fine-grained, tart-sour in taste;
- Golotlinskaya apple-shaped– the main advantage of this early-ripening, productive variety, which is undemanding to conditions, is the small size and compactness of the crown. Flat-spherical or cylindrical, ribbed, medium-pubescent fruits of a golden-yellow and green hue reach a weight of 280 g. The light yellow hue of the juicy, tart pulp retains a strong aroma even after processing;
- Berecki– a consistently productive, partially self-fertile variety of Hungarian selection. The Champion, Ispolinskaya, and Portuguese varieties are suitable for pollination. The fruits of this variety are pear-shaped, large - weighing up to 270 g, very tasty and aromatic - they are eaten fresh, like apples. The pulp of the fruit is yellow, juicy, of excellent taste;
- Trimontium– a frost-resistant variety, the fruits of which are identical in size and medium in size and are most often used for processing.
Mid-season varieties also include such popular cultivated varieties as Limonka, Otlichnitsa, Leskovats, Shchuchinskaya, Persidskaya and others.
Late quince varieties
- Zubutlinskaya– a productive, winter-hardy, wind-resistant and disease-resistant Dagestan variety of folk selection with very large, round, blunt-ribbed felt fruits weighing up to 800 g, golden yellow in color with light yellow juicy pulp of a pleasant taste;
- Vraniska Denmark– a high-yielding, wind-resistant and disease-resistant variety of Yugoslav selection with rounded, truncated, pear-shaped, slightly woolly fruits weighing up to 270 g of greenish-yellow color. The pulp is light yellow, dense and juicy, sweet and sour taste;
- Buynakskaya large-fruited– a high-yielding, self-fertile and early-fruiting, winter-hardy and disease-resistant Dagestan variety with very large pear-shaped or cylindrical fruits, sometimes reaching a weight of 700 g. The color of the fruits is light yellow;
- Ktyun-zhum (winter quince)– a very late variety released for the North Caucasus with smooth, wide-ribbed golden-yellow fruits, often weighing 800 g. The fruit pulp is light yellow in color, with an excellent sweet and sour taste;
- Portuguese– a partially self-fertile European variety of medium winter hardiness with short, pear-shaped, ribbed, slightly pubescent fruits of medium size. The pulp is aromatic, yellowish, tart.
Among the late quince varieties, Mir, Student, Ispolinskaya, Champion, Victoria and others are also popular.
Quince varieties for the Moscow region
If you, living in the Moscow region, decide to grow quince in your garden, keep in mind that it is more resistant to cold than apricot, cherry and even some varieties of pears and apple trees. Provided the root zone and lower part of the trunk are insulated, the following quince varieties can be grown in the Moscow region:
- Muscat– an early-ripening, medium-growing, high-yielding, drought-resistant and winter-hardy variety, practically not susceptible to disease. This is the best quince for the Moscow region - it is easy to cultivate on dense soils. The fruits of plants of this variety are fluffy, felt-like to the touch, the flesh is light cream, rough;
- Firstborn– an early-ripening, moisture-loving, winter-hardy, productive variety that begins to bear fruit in the fourth year. Smooth, pubescent-free fruits, weighing up to 220 g, have a round shape and a pale yellow color. The pulp is aromatic, juicy, tender, cream-colored;
- Amber– a mid-season, early-fruiting, productive variety with average winter hardiness, but high drought resistance and immunity to fungal diseases. The fruits of plants of this variety are medium in size, apple-shaped, slightly ribbed, the color of the fruits ranges from bright yellow to amber. The pulp is very aromatic, bright cream or orange-yellow, coarse-grained, juicy, sweet and sour taste;
- Success– self-fertile, late-ripening, productive, drought-resistant and winter-hardy variety with round and smooth light yellow fruits with almost imperceptible pubescence and very sweet pulp;
- Krasnodar– a mid-season, winter-hardy and drought-resistant variety with medium-sized fruits, weighing up to 200 g, apple-shaped, slightly ribbed, amber-orange or bright yellow in color. The pulp is juicy, coarse-grained, bright cream or orange-yellow, with a strong aroma and sweet and sour taste.
In addition to the varieties described, in the Moscow region you can successfully grow the varieties Aromatnaya, Stepnaya Krasvitsa, Dessertnaya, Excellent, Blagodatnaya, Ranetnaya and Gurji.
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Quince is a valuable fruit crop that belongs to the Rosaceae family, like the more famous representatives: apple and pear. Its fruits are widely used not only in the food industry, but also in medicine, for the treatment and prevention of certain diseases (for example, acute respiratory infections, bronchitis, diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, liver, skin, etc.).
General information
In addition, the quince tree also serves as a decorative decoration for gardens, country houses and personal plots.
The service life is about 70 years, while the fruiting period is 35-50 years. Already in the third year it will be possible to harvest (from 30 to 100 kg per tree). The fruits are stored in boxes in a dry, cool place (2-5°C).
Thus, the harvest harvested in the fall will remain until spring and will acquire more sweetness, softness and lose its astringent taste. Quince is grown both as a shrub and as a tree.
Quince varieties
There are five garden groups of quince: apple-shaped (the fruits are similar to apples), pear-shaped , Portuguese (pear-shaped ribbed shape), marble (has yellow and white spots on the surface of the leaves), pyramidal (due to the leaf shape).
As for varieties, there are a huge number of them, but the most famous and used are the following.
Quince "Aurora" – this variety ripens at the end of September. The fruits, when properly stored, last from two to four months. Suitable for long-term transportation. The fruits of this tree are used to make juices, compotes and jam.
Quince "Angerskaya" – collection is carried out in the first half of September, and stored for no more than three months. It is used rather for processing (preservation), since often the fruits fall off before they have fully ripened.
Quince “Angerskaya from Gorin” – they resemble an apple in shape, are heterogeneous in structure, and have solid particles. The shelf life of picked fruits does not exceed two months. There is a tendency for dark spots to form under the skin. Used for further processing into juices, jams, etc.
Quince "Buinakskaya large-fruited" has large fruits, each weighing 300-700 grams. The shape is pear-shaped, even more cylindrical. The shelf life is quite long. Since the taste of this variety is not pronounced, it is used as preserves.
Quince "Vraniska Denmark"
It has a late harvest, which falls at the end of October or beginning of November. The shape of the fruit is pear-shaped, rarely round (truncated). It has a sweet and sour pleasant taste. To consume it raw and enjoy the full range of taste buds, you should let the picked fruit sit for at least a month. For preservation it can be used immediately after collection.
Quince "Golden" has the shape of an apple. Harvest at the end of September and store no more than two months (sometimes less). The sweetish-sour taste is practically devoid of astringency, and the solid particles inherent in most types are practically absent. Used both raw and for processing.
Quince “Scythian Gold” – looks like an apple. Harvested at the end of September. The shelf life is quite long (up to three months). Subject to transportation. The pulp of the fruit is very tender and juicy, has a sweet and sour taste. The application is quite universal.
Quince "Golden Ball" the fruits are medium in size (about 300 grams) and have a sweet and sour taste. Good transportability and versatility in use.
Quince “Kaunchi-10 (winter)” ripens in early December and is stored for just over two months. It differs from other varieties in its pronounced aroma and crispy, sweet flesh. Most often they are consumed raw.
Quince “Late Maslyanka”
It differs from others in its miniature size (weighs only 50-60g). The color is yellow with a green tint. Not the most popular type for eating raw, as it has a sour and tart taste and solid particles in the pulp. Although very fragrant. They are used for technical processing, for example, they are very convenient for canning in their entirety.
Quince "Early Maslyanka" its characteristics are similar to the “late butterwort”, differing in its light yellow or rich yellow color.
Quince "Muscat" The fruit is medium-sized (weighing 200-250 g), round in shape (maybe slightly elongated). Used to make jam and compotes. For consumption raw, it has insufficient juiciness and a sour taste.
Quince "Skorospelka" has medium-sized fruits (up to 120g), astringent and sour taste. Suitable for recycling.
Or japonica – a heat-loving plant, so it is found in places with mild climates. In countries with cold winters (-30°C), even if the tree survives the frost, the buds and young shoots that are above the snow cover will die and the tree will not bloom in the spring.
Japanese quince cultivation and care
Let's look at the rules for caring for quince using the example of the Japanese Chaenomeles variety. Japanese quince responds well to light and therefore loves well-lit areas. It does not develop well in the shade, which will affect flowering.
All species and varieties of Chaenomeles feel great if they are located on light sandy loam, loamy and soddy-podzolic soils enriched with humus with a slightly acidic reaction (pH 6.5). They do not tolerate peaty soil well. Alkaline soil most often causes leaf chlorosis. The planting site is selected on the south side of the site, which must be protected from drafts and severe frosts.
Preparations begin in the fall. The planting area is cleared of weeds. If the soil is not fertile enough, then add a mixture of sand and leaf soil (1:2), in addition, peat manure compost is added at the rate of 10 kg per square meter, as well as phosphorus and potassium fertilizers - 40 g per square meter.
Planting quince
In the spring, in this area, with thawed and moist soil, you can safely plant Japanese quince for permanent residence, which has not yet had time to open its buds. Only those specimens that are at least two years old, and until then the plant is grown in containers.
During planting, the neck of the quince is placed above ground level, otherwise growth will slow down and the roots should not be exposed. This plant does not need transplants, so it is not worth moving from place to place, quince does not tolerate it well.
Trees (or shrubs) can be planted in groups, rows, along fences, like a hedge. The main thing is to maintain a distance of one meter in any direction.
Mulching quince
In summer, for lush flowering, it is necessary to loosen the soil and remove weeds around the bushes (trees), going 10-12 cm deep, and cover with a layer (3-5 cm) of sawdust, peat or crushed bark, in a word - mulch.
As for the quantity, the mulch should cover not only the perimeter around the rhizome, but be approximately the same diameter as the bush itself. It is best to do this in late spring. At this time, the soil is still sufficiently moist and has had time to warm up well.
Pruning quince in autumn scheme
The crown is not shortened much (by 1/3-1/4 of the length), otherwise this will cause increased growth of new shoots, which will delay the fruiting process. When thinning, all dry branches (down to healthy wood) that are too long and damaged are removed, and weak and old trees are pruned more heavily.
With the help of periodic pruning and fertilizing, constant vegetative growth can be maintained (rejuvenating effect), which contributes to a large annual harvest. During the first 5-6 years of growth of a young quince, this procedure must be carried out annually, and after that it depends on the condition of the tree.
The main pruning occurs at the beginning of spring. It is important to note that if young shoots are actively growing on a tree throughout the spring-autumn period, then in August they must be pinched, otherwise they will not have time to get stronger before the first frost and will disappear.
A garter is needed in the first years of active growth. This is due to the fact that quince does not grow evenly and will most likely need support. When the tree gets stronger and begins to bear fruit, then it will be possible to remove the supports.
Watering Japanese quince
Quince loves moisture, but you need to be careful and attentive, since this should not be frequent watering with a small amount of water, but about six waterings over the period from the beginning of spring to the end of autumn:
- 1st – in early spring, a few days before flowering;
- 2nd – during flowering;
- 3rd – after flowering stops, when the ovaries fall off;
- 4th – when young shoots begin to grow;
- 5th – a month after the previous one;
- 6th – when the fruits form and grow.
As for the amount of liquid, about 400 liters per tree should be used for a young tree, and 500-800 liters for an adult. The difference is related to the depth of the roots. In young people it is 50-80 cm, and in adults it is up to one meter.
How to feed quince in the fall
Fertilizers are applied throughout the entire quince growing season. At the beginning of spring, they are fed with mineral and organic fertilizers, in the summer there is a special need for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium-containing nutrition (thereby increasing the yield), in the fall - with mineral and organic fertilizers (we make a supply of substances necessary for the quince to safely overwinter).
In the first year after planting quince in open ground, it does not need additional feeding. The amount that was already present in the soil before planting will be sufficient for the young plant to grow normally.
Quince harvest
Harvesting takes place at the end of autumn. Some fruits need to be kept on the tree longer, some need to be kept in boxes before consumption, this is when they acquire their special taste and aroma. It all depends on the variety; this nuance should be taken into account.
Before wintering, in order to avoid damage and frostbite, both young and adult shrubs must be sprinkled with old leaves and, if necessary, covered with a cardboard box.
Japanese quince propagation by seeds
Seed propagation is the easiest and most reliable way to grow Chaenomeles japonica. During processing of ripe fruits, the core is cleaned, the seeds are collected, dried and sown in the ground before the start of winter. The seeds germinate very well in the spring, although the quality of the soil is not important.
Propagation of quince by cuttings
Cuttings are harvested in early June, early in the morning, in dry and not hot weather. Each cut area should have at least two internodes and a piece of last year's wood (1 cm long).
To increase the survival rate (by 15-20%), growth stimulants are used (for example, “Kornevin”). The finished cuttings are planted at a slight angle in a substrate of sand and peat (3:1). By maintaining the temperature at 22-25°C, rooting is observed within a month and a half.
Reproduction of quince by root suckers
Japanese quince is capable of producing a lot of root shoots, which is why it tends to grow in width (an area of up to two meters). This helps to hold the soil when growing on slopes, but under normal conditions this is of no use. Therefore, you can use these offspring for reproduction.
To do this, dig under the bush and select shoots 12-15 cm long and no thinner than 0.5 cm, with a well-developed rhizome. No more than five shoots can be selected from one bush. They are planted vertically, constantly monitoring humidity (watered regularly), then mulched with humus, shavings or wood chips.
There is also a drawback to this method - some seedlings have an underdeveloped root system, so the first harvest will have fruits that are smaller in size and not as fragrant and juicy.
Diseases and pests
- If Various types of spots appear on quince leaves and fruits - this is most likely due to the fact that in damp and humid weather the plant can be affected by fungal diseases, which lead to necrosis, the leaves become deformed and dry out. For example, in the fight against brown spot (necrosis), spraying with a solution consisting of copper sulfate (100g) and water (10l) will help. There is also a safer option: steep a decoction of onion peels (150g/10l of water) for 24 hours.
- The ovaries die (fall off) – fungal infection. The mycelium can quietly overwinter in dried fruits and infected leaves, where brown spots appear, which, growing, cover the entire surface of the leaf blade, and during flowering, fungal spores get inside the young ovaries, destroying them.
Prevention of quince diseases
As you know, it is better to prevent diseases than to deal with their consequences, so the best treatment is prevention.
To do this, in late autumn, when the harvest has come to an end, it is necessary to collect dried fruits, broken and withered branches in order to avoid the death of ovaries, brown spots and leaf-mining moths.
As soon as the buds swell in the spring, but before flowering begins, the bushes are treated with a 0.1% solution of foundationazole and a 0.15% solution of dipterex. In the fight against rotting of the ovaries, spraying is carried out during flowering with a 0.08-0.1% solution of foundationazole.
If you follow all the recommendations for caring for quince, the harvest will be rich in aromatic and juicy fruits, from which you can make jelly, pastille, preserves, syrups, liqueurs, jams, compotes. From dried fruit slices you can prepare a delicious dried fruit compote. The most popular is making quince jam.
Quince jam is the most delicious recipe
Properly prepared jam retains all the beneficial qualities, as well as the taste and aroma of the fruit.
Ingredients
- Quinces – 1 kg
- Lemon - 1 pc.
- Sugar - 1 kg (less can be done, depending on who likes what, next time you can adjust)
- 200-300 ml – water
Preparation
Let's move on to cooking. Wash the fruits thoroughly. Peel and core (seeds can be dried for future planting). Cut into small pieces (it’s better to cut in half and then into slices), put in a bowl and put on the stove.
Cook for 10 minutes, then, stirring, gradually add sugar and cook for another 15-20 minutes. Remove from the stove and let cool completely. Then put it back on the stove and cook for another five minutes. Everything is very simple and so delicious.
Japanese quince, or chaenomeles ( Chaenomeles) - not only an ornamental plant, but also a fruit plant. This is a shrub with a dense crown and beautiful glossy leaves. Japanese chaenomeles (Ch. japonica) can grow up to 2 and even 3 m, and Maulei chaenomeles (Ch. maulei), also called low Japanese quince, can grow up to 1 m. In May, the bushes are covered with numerous large bright flowers of a rare scarlet and red-orange flowers. There are varieties with different original flower colors. For example, descriptions of Japanese quince varieties such as ‘Nivalis’ are characterized by white petals, while ‘Pink Lady’ has pink petals.
Varieties of Japanese quince: photos and descriptions of shrubs
Chaenomeles develops and blooms better in an open place, but also tolerates partial shade. When planting Japanese quince, you need to take into account that in severe winters the branches above the snow cover freeze over. Chaenomeles is propagated by green cuttings, suckers and layering, species - by seeds.
Chaenomeles are planted in groups on the lawn
The Japanese quince shrub looks good as an addition to taller plants.
For example, chaenomeles can be used to cover the exposed stems of mock orange.
Those who decide to grow this plant should pay attention to some very important features in the description of Japanese quince. First of all, chaenomeles is a heat-loving plant, so experts consider regions with a mild climate to be favorable areas for its growth. If you plan to plant and care for Japanese quince in northern latitudes, where the temperature can drop to -30 ° C, you need to take into account that the part of the bush that is under the snow will definitely bloom in the spring, but annual shoots or buds that are above the level snow cover are unlikely to give a lush color.
However, even such slightly capricious and demanding characteristics of the Japanese quince do not stop skilled gardeners, because the plant is distinguished by a number of other features and advantages:
- for example, Chaenomeles is characterized by smooth, small, juicy green leaves;
- True, in addition to leaves, quince also has spines reaching up to 2 cm in length;
- fruits that resemble apples or apples are not very large in size - about 3-5 cm - and are located on the surface of the shoots;
- in landscape design, Japanese quince will delight the eye from May until about mid-June (flowering lasts about 20 days), when pink, white or red-orange buds will bloom.
After reading the description, look at the photo of the Japanese quince shrub to understand what shapes and colors this plant has:
Due to the fact that today there are many varieties of Japanese quince, real gardeners and those simply wanting to decorate their garden can choose the variety of plant that they like.
You can see in the photo a variety of Japanese quince, which is distinguished by its beauty and is very popular among connoisseurs - this is “Pink Lady”. It is characterized by a wide crown and pink or deep pink flowers. And the height of the bush is only 1.5 m.
In May and at the end of summer - August - Chaenomeles "Nivalis" is covered with wonderful white buds. It can grow both in width and height up to 2 m.
Pay attention to the photo of the Japanese quince “Hollandia”: This plant has red-orange flowers, dark green leaves and a wide crown. Chaenomeles can bloom twice - in May and August.
A plant variety such as "Vesuvius" is considered very miniature: it does not grow higher than 1 m. Despite this, its fiery buds fit delightfully into any garden.
If you look at the photo of a Japanese quince bush called "Crimson and Gold", then you will also join those people who consider it one of the most beautiful varieties. The color of the flowers of the plant is simply magnificent - rich scarlet buds with yellow stamens. And this beauty is most often used by real gardeners to create hedges, since this variety does not require pruning.
And here is Chaenomeles "Jet Trail", unlike "Crimson and Gold", spreads along the ground and decorates any lawn with wonderful white flowers. Moreover, the variety is completely devoid of thorns.
French breeders tried very hard when they developed the Simone variety.. This shrub has red-crimson flowers, bears green fruits and is distinguished by lodging shoots of almost round shape.
And if you want to get a real bonsai tree for your garden, choose the “Rubra” variety. Just keep in mind that to do this, when caring for Japanese quince, you will have to carefully monitor its appearance and regularly prune it.
Resistant varieties of Japanese quince for the Moscow region
Taking into account the climatic and soil specifics of the Moscow region, experts advise carefully choosing one or another variety of this plant. For the Moscow region, Japanese quince varieties should be distinguished, first of all, by their resistance. Therefore, you should pay attention to interspecific Chaenomeles hybrids and selection varieties.
For example, a Japanese quince called “Zubutlinskaya” would be a suitable option for residents in the Moscow region. It bears large fruits, is frost-resistant and resistant to various diseases. In addition, the plant is not afraid of northern winds. And, by the way, very tasty jam and juices are made from the fruits.
In addition to the named variety, you can also experiment with growing Japanese quince, which is called “Nicoline”. Because it is highly tolerant of low temperatures and produces lush scarlet flowers, this Chaenomeles species would be an interesting choice for your landscape design.
Another frost-resistant option, which has a beautiful soft pink color, is the “Pink Lady” variety you already know. An adult plant reaches no more than 1.2 m.
Growing and caring for Japanese quince in open ground: how to plant a shrub correctly
To know how to plant Japanese quince, carefully read the following recommendations from experienced gardeners. In principle, Chaenomeles is distinguished by a certain capriciousness and demandingness only at a young age. During this period, the plant really needs moderate moisture, which implies the absence of moisture stagnation.
Such difficulties should not arise in the future. True, you still need to take into account that in poor lighting the plant may not bloom so luxuriantly and is unlikely to bear fruit.
How to plant Japanese quince correctly so that it pleases you with its delicate flowers? As you may have guessed, you should choose a place for planting that is sufficiently lit.
Next, do not forget that in winter the plant should be under the snow. Therefore, look for a place where massive snow cover forms. And if snowstorms are very frequent guests in your area, do not forget to also cover the bush with spruce branches or fallen leaves.
A very characteristic feature of the plant is that it is able to develop well and grow in almost any soil. So, if you plant a shrub on damp clay or poor sandy soil, Japanese quince will grow well and produce lush color. But this will only happen if the soil is moderately moist, as mentioned earlier, and rich in humus.
Chaenomeles will not be able to grow only on soils such as calcareous and saline soils. Please note that alkaline soil will cause leaf chlorosis.
It is best to plant Japanese quince in an area that is located on the south side of a country house, or in a secluded corner that is well protected from northern winds.
Pay attention to the photo of Japanese quince: if the planting was done correctly, your plant will produce a similar beneficial color:
You need to remember that if you decide to plant shrubs in the spring, you need to prepare the soil in the fall. To do this, you should completely clear the area of weeds, if any, and keep the selected area under black fallow until planting. Fertilizers such as peat manure compost in a volume of 10 kg/m2, potassium and phosphorus fertilizers in a volume of 40 g/m2 must be added to the soil. This helps create the necessary water- and breathable ball of earth.
If you want to decorate your garden with a plant that has an open root system and plant it in a permanent place, choose the time for planting in the spring, when the soil has already thawed, but the buds have not yet begun to bloom. It is also possible to plant Japanese quince in the fall, but since Chaenomeles is heat-loving, it may suffer or even die.
Be sure to take a good look at the photo of Japanese quince, the care and planting of which suggests that the shrub will be planted in small groups or along paths to form a low hedge:
In such cases, each plant should be one and a half meters apart from each other if they are collected in a row, and at a distance of up to 1 meter if the quince forms a group.
Planting Japanese quince in open ground is considered incorrect: the root collar of the bush must be located at soil level, but the root should never be exposed! Another important point is that the root collar, which is too deep into the ground, does not contribute to slowing down the growth of Chaenomeles.
Remember that this plant reacts very poorly to transplantation, and an experienced gardener will never disturb it again. It is known that in one place a quince can produce lush flowers for up to 60 years.
Well, when chaenomeles has already been planted, it’s time to think about how to grow Japanese quince healthy and beautiful.
In order for the plant to bloom magnificently in the summer, the soil around it is carefully loosened to a depth of about 10 cm. This procedure is combined with the destruction of weeds.
For an even more effective result, which you will see if you look at the photo, a method such as mulching is used in caring for Japanese quince - that is, covering the ground with a layer of mulch (peat, sawdust or crushed bark) to protect the bush:
To apply this method, it is better to stock up on everything you need in late spring and carry out the procedure while the soil is still quite wet, but already well warmed up. In autumn, mulching is carried out only when a constant low temperature has already established.
When growing and caring for Japanese quince, which was planted a year ago, gardeners do not recommend using liquid fertilizers, which can easily injure young roots. And without the use of these products, the plant will have enough nutrients in the planting hole. But already in the second or third year, when spring comes and the snow melts, experts advise applying organic and mineral fertilizers.
They will contribute to the lush color and fruiting that you can see in the photo of Japanese quince, which was also grown using fertilizers in the form of liquid fertilizers:
Propagation of Japanese quince by seeds and cuttings
It is the seeds that are considered the simplest and most proven method of propagating Japanese quince by dozens of generations of gardeners. You need to know that when already ripe fruits are sent for processing and the core is cleaned, large brown seeds can not be disposed of, but left for further sowing. They are sown in the soil in the fall.
This method is so loved by many people because, thanks to it, you are guaranteed to get dense shoots next spring. But if you were unable to realize your plans during the mentioned period, you will have to plant the seeds for stratification - long-term aging (2-3 months) in peat or moist soil at a temperature of +3+5o C. In the spring, the seeds are naturally transferred to the ground.
You can resort to another method - propagation of Japanese quince by cuttings. However, experts say that this method is considered less effective. In most cases, the cutting procedure is used to preserve the varietal qualities of Chaenomeles.
Pay attention to the photo so that growing and caring for Japanese quince does not become a problematic and unloved activity for you in the future:
Remember, these green cuttings are usually harvested in early June, while the weather is dry but not hot. Be sure to cut them early in the morning. Gardeners say that the most effective in rooting - 80% guarantee - are cuttings cut with a small piece of last year's wood. They are also called “with heels”. To stimulate growth, use a solution of indolylbutyric acid with 0.01%.
The cuttings must be planted obliquely in a mixture of peat and sand (the required ratio is 1:3). If the outside temperature stays within +20+25° C, then rooting can easily occur in 40 days.
How to propagate Japanese quince by offspring
Since the plant always produces a lot of root shoots, you can use them too. Experienced gardeners have long known how to propagate Japanese quince in a similar way. To do this, shoots are selected that are approximately 10-15 cm long and at least 0.5 cm thick. Be sure to ensure that the offspring have a well-developed rhizome system. Then they are planted vertically and watered regularly so that the soil maintains the necessary moisture. Next, they resort to the mulching procedure that is already familiar to us - they fill the soil around the plant with wood chips, shavings or humus. True, chaenomeles grown in this way has one drawback: it was noticed that the plant produces smaller fruits than its counterparts propagated by seeds or cuttings.
But there is also a special advantage in this situation: with this method of reproduction, Japanese quince very often then spreads in different directions and at the age of 20 years can occupy an area of up to 2 m2. This is very beneficial in cases where you want, for example, to hold the soil on some slopes.
Growing Japanese quince in the Moscow region: planting, care and pruning
A very valuable feature of the Japanese Chaenomeles is that it loves to preen itself. True, gardeners are in no hurry to approach the plant’s thorns. They do this only when they are armed with thick gardening gloves - leggings.
Japanese quince really needs sanitary pruning in the spring: during this period, all dry shoots that have died from frost should be carefully removed. To do this, you can use ordinary well-sharpened tools - a garden saw and pruning shears. After the procedure, be sure to treat the cut areas with garden varnish.
But how to prune Japanese quince if it is associated with the formation of a bush, which begins at the age of 4-5 years? Firstly, the procedure is carried out in early spring. Every year, part of the root growth is cut out.
Only 2-3 offspring are left for further growth. It is desirable that these are horizontal shoots that are located at a height of up to 40 cm from the ground. Other shoots that spread along the ground or grow vertically are safely removed.
Another type of pruning, which is indicated in the description of planting and caring for Japanese quince in the Moscow region, is a rejuvenating procedure. It is used when the plant reaches the age of 8-10 years. Gardeners understand that the time has come for this pruning when the annual growth is reduced to 10 cm.
The procedure is carried out as follows: the bush is thinned out, all thin and weak branches are removed, and only a dozen strong shoots are left.
Look at the photos of the beautiful varieties of Japanese quince, the description of which is presented above - for them, the worst threat is a pest such as aphids:
If you find these monsters on plants in your garden, immediately use special means.
An equally vicious and dangerous enemy for Chaenomeles is damp, cool weather, which causes the manifestation of many fungal diseases:
- if the plant begins to experience necrosis and numerous spots appear on the leaves, this is a sure sign that the Japanese quince may soon die;
- in cases where chaenomeles is affected by cercospora, all kinds of brown spots appear on it, turning pale over time;
- brown spots are a sign of ramulariasis.
What then needs to be done to save the plant? It is urgent to use the most effective remedy - spray the bush with a solution of fundozol (0.2%) or use a copper-soap liquid, which is made by adding 100 g of copper sulfate to 10 liters of soapy water.
These products are considered quite dangerous, so there is another option: you can make a tincture from onions, and for this you need to infuse 150 g of husks in 10 liters of water for 24 hours. After filtering the drug, it is sprinkled on the plant throughout the whole summer every 5 days.
Japanese quince bush in landscape design (with photo)
After reading the description of Japanese quince and looking at the photos of various varieties of this plant, which are presented below, you can be convinced that chaenomeles can be considered one of the most magnificent ornamental shrubs:
Each variety is distinguished by its unique color scheme of buds (from delicate snow-white to massive fiery red), which literally shimmer in the sun. And the fruits that come from Japanese quince resemble either outlandish pears or amazing fairy-tale apples.
Moreover, Chaenomeles attracts many avid gardeners because it retains its regal appearance for a long time. Certain varieties can live up to 50 years! This amazing plant blooms in the spring, pleasing the eye and bringing pleasure to the inhabitants of a country house, and in the summer and autumn it shares its juicy fruits.
Japanese low-growing quince is very often used for landscape design of garden paths. This variety does not grow higher than 1 meter. In addition, in May and early June, chaenomeles begins to be covered with orange-red flowers, which look very attractive in any garden.
Japanese quince is also ideal for creating hedges. It can be seen either individually seated or gathered in small groups, which very often create real artistic compositions.
In the garden, chaenomeles looks great on a trunk - a vertical or inclined element in the shape of a letter. To get the desired result, the plant should be grafted onto a pear or rowan using cuttings.
Look at the photo of Japanese quince in landscape design: when designing the territory, be sure to take into account the following points:
- for example, to create an alpine hill, you can combine chaenomeles with dwarf spruce, varietal thuja or slate pine;
- if you plant shrubs along the garden path every one and a half meters, you will get a whole picturesque ensemble;
- In combination with daffodils and Carpathian bluebells, Japanese quince helps add bright colors to landscape design.
In fact, there are many options for compositional solutions with planting Japanese chaenomeles. Much depends only on the imagination of the gardener himself. So – don’t be afraid to experiment!
