Do you want to update your interior with a new piece of furniture? Make a chair from natural wood with your own hands, which will not only be beautiful in appearance, but also useful in everyday life.
Ready-made drawings with dimensions will make the process easier for beginners carpentry.
Which tree to choose
To make a chair from natural wood, you can use the following lumber:
- boards;
- beam;
- array;
- logs
In most cases, they resort to a combination of several types of materials, each of them performs its own function in the design.
You can buy ready-made materials or, if available necessary equipment, make it yourself. For this you will need quality logs. When choosing logs, pay attention to their appearance: presence of knots, cracks, fungal diseases. Explore top layer wood - sometimes logs are tinted to improve their consumer properties.
If you decide to purchase lumber for a chair, you should pay attention to the following recommendations:
- The timber and boards must be dry, with smooth edges and no cracks. Pay attention to distortions - only minor deviations are allowed, as well as the presence of holes (with a diameter of 2 to 4 mm), symptoms of rot, mold.
- The boards have a thickness of up to 100 mm, timber - from 100 mm.
- Solid wood is a material that contains exclusively natural wood without any impurities. Choosing an array involves finding the type of wood that is best suited for creating.
- It is preferable to make chairs from oak or mahogany - these varieties are known for their excellent decorative and practical qualities (strength, durability, easy to process).
- Other suitable materials include pine and beech.
Important! It is necessary to stock up on wood, bars and boards in a slightly larger volume than is calculated for production, since there is a possibility of spoiling or breaking one of the parts.
Drawings with dimensions
The process of making a chair begins with creating a drawing. If this is your first product, it is best to abandon the intricate designs and try to make a chair of the simplest design with a fabric seat upholstery. You can use the drawing below (all dimensions are in millimeters):
Materials and tools
In the process of making a chair you will need the following materials:
- boards (thickness – 10-15 mm);
- timber (parameters – 40 by 60 mm and 40 by 40 mm);
- sanding paper;
- foam rubber and durable fabric;
- self-tapping screws;
- furniture glue.
If you intend to make the bars yourself, then for this you need to acquire special equipment. Woodworking tools:
- construction stapler;
- saw;
- conductors for furniture;
- plane;
- chisel;
- mallet;
- jigsaw (electric);
- screwdriver;
- roulette.
Description of work stages
Step 1. Prepare a beam: one is needed for the back of the chair (80 cm in length), the second for the legs located in front (44 cm). Make holes in the bars on same height- they are needed for the foundation.
The manufactured parts need to be laid on top of each other and the cuts of the legs should be aligned. Mark the location of the holes.
You need to make two holes on the adjacent chair legs so that you end up with a kind of rectangle standing on the legs.
Step 2. Taking advantage chisel, make holes where the marks are. Get rid of sawdust clear legs.
Step 3. Make 2 longitudinal slats and 2 runners (horizontal pieces that connect the bottom of the chair legs). For this, take 4 bars with markings for future tenons. Their dimensions should correspond to about 10–12 mm.
Mark and cut the tenons as carefully as possible, as they must fit firmly into the holes. Make sure there are no gaps.
Step 4. At the next stage, the back is made. For its base, it is better to take an edged board. Make holes on inside rear supports so that they correspond to the parameters of the height and thickness of the backrest - the grooves are intended for its fastening. The seat is fixed using screws. To make the chair sufficiently rigid, attach small braces.
Step 5. Treat the back and legs of the chair with outside so that they have rounded form and then polish their.
Step 6. The base of the future chair needs to be treated varnish and polish. It is best to purchase odorless varnish made in water based. Wait until the structural elements are completely will dry out.
Step 7 If you want to make a chair with a soft seat, take foam rubber of the required size and wrap it in a fairly thick fabric. Attach the foam to the seat using a staple gun.
Step 8 The process of assembling a wooden chair begins immediately after processing all structural elements. The spikes need to be coated well with glue and driven into the grooves using a mallet. In order not to damage the varnish coating of the chair, you need to strike as much as possible. carefully.
Step 9 The last step is screwing the seat and backrest to the base of the chair. To attach furniture screws, use suitable drill bits.
The screw heads can be masked using PVA glue and sawdust. Mix these two ingredients and apply them to the caps. After treating the chair with varnish, the screws become almost invisible.
ABOUT your manufacturing principle, in the future you will be able to take on more complex designs- chairs with figured legs and back, with armrests, carved chairs, as well as independently repair a wooden chair. You might want to make something original or surprise your friends copyright a product of unusual design.
Watch the video for a master class on making a chair from solid wood:
Whatever product you make from natural wood, and even with your own hands, a creative approach is definitely needed. Any tree is a living material that can be easily processed. If such products are properly looked after and cared for, they will last a very long time. One of the main advantages of wooden objects is their ability to fit into almost any interior, bringing warmth and coziness, comfortable and familiar. If you are creative nature, and want to make a chair with your own hands, here you will learn about it in more detail.
Making furniture yourself is not that difficult. The main thing is to understand what exactly you need and for what purposes. Surely you would like the furniture to be not only beautiful, but also very durable and safe. To do this, it is better to protect yourself and purchase quality materials. No matter what, even natural high-quality wood will cost less than buying a finished product made from the same wood. Most suitable breeds trees are beech, oak or pine. They are very durable and reliable. To make a frame, purchase timber with a cross-section of 40*40 and/or 40*60 mm. To make lintels and a backrest - you will need boards up to 1.5 cm thick. Well, if you want to make a chair with a backrest and a soft seat, purchase a sheet of plywood.
Among the tools that will be useful to you for creating furniture yourself, you should prepare: a saw, electric jigsaw, chisel, hammer, screwdriver, mallet, sandpaper, stapler, triangle, meter, clamps. It will not be superfluous to use wood glue and, if necessary, paint. Choose fasteners in the form of stainless steel screws. If you plan to upholster the seat, prepare staples for the stapler.
For those who decided to make such a masterpiece for the first time, we recommend trying it from a stool. Because, in fact, a chair is not the easiest thing to learn to make furniture on.
Therefore, in practice, it is better to first learn how to make a stool, and only then move towards other products. In general, a stool is the simplest version of a chair, without a back. The seat in it can also be with or without upholstery.
Be sure to look at the photos that clearly show the process of making a wooden chair. And, of course, follow the instructions. So.
Beams with a cross-section of 40*40, length 44 cm - take 4 pieces. such. To prepare wood from burrs, use sandpaper: first with a coarser grit, then with a fine one.
Next, take drawers, 4 pcs. – the seat of your chair will rest on them, and they will also be jumpers. The parameters of the drawers are 2*5*28, cm. You will also need 4 drawers, which you use to fasten the product, their dimensions are: 3*2*28, cm.
It would be great if you could find a solid wide board. But if this is not possible, you should stick to the tongue-and-groove connection. If you wish, the seat can be rounded.
You make tenons on the edges of each drawer and leg, and grooves on the legs themselves. The tenons and grooves are 2 cm long. In turn, the grooves should be made from the floor, at a height of 27 cm.
All parts except the seat need to be put together to make sure that everything is straight and not skewed. If you did everything correctly, you can lubricate the grooves and tenons with wood glue and firmly connect all the products to each other.
It is not difficult to screw the seat to the resulting structure. To do this, a self-tapping screw must be screwed into each leg; it’s good if you recess its heads into the wood a little. The fastening points can be disguised using a special wood putty, or plastic plugs, matching the color of the product.
If you have chosen good wood, it has a good structure, shade... Take paint or just varnish, open your product and use it for your health!
Make a folding chair? Easily!
This type of furniture is simply irreplaceable in many life situations. Especially if the house is small, and it is difficult to place large furniture in it, and you need to seat guests for the holidays... And if you are planning to go on a picnic, you will definitely need such a chair!
In order to make an ordinary folding chair, you will need:
- 4*2*47, cm legs – 4 pcs.
- 4*2*32, cm crossbars for supporting the seat bars – 4 pcs.
- 4*2*32, cm legs – 2 pcs.
- For seat: 9*2*35, cm – 2 pcs., 6*2*35, cm – 2 pcs.
- Bolts with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of up to 4 cm - 6 pcs.
- To attach the poles directly to the legs, as well as the bars to the support crossbars, you need self-tapping screws, the length of which is from 4 to 5 cm
For a more aesthetic appearance of the product, round the edges of the parts.
The legs need to be connected in pairs, crosswise. It is better to do this at the top of the legs. This will allow you to make a stable chair model. Sink the nuts and bolt heads a little into the wood.
Connect the crossbars and the upper parts of the legs with bolts. Next, on each half, attach one leg and a seat block (1 narrow and 1 wide). When the product is assembled, you will see that each wide bar is followed by 2 narrow ones. At the same time, the distance between the narrow and wide beams is 1.5-2 cm. All that remains is to open it with varnish or paint and voila!
Variety of wooden chairs
It may be that you will like this kind of creative activity, and you will become a manufacturer of designer furniture. But in fact, there can be a lot of options for what to make from wood! The same rocking chairs, various options for children's furniture and much more!
These chairs have a very simple and robust construction. The back legs and backrests are made from one piece of wood, 25 mm thick. It's best to make a template for the chair leg, and cut it with a bandsaw.
The next task is to make the edges semicircular. By using milling machine and a corresponding cutter, make a semicircle on the chair legs.
The back of the chair is a little more difficult to assemble, so when clamping, straighten it immediately and maintain evenness.
The front legs and bridges are a little easier to glue and assemble. Pay attention to the two small clamps on the corners, this is done so that there is full contact when gluing.
The next step is to connect the front and back parts. Be sure to place the chair on a flat surface during this step. If the chair is slightly uneven, or rather will wobble, you can install the clamp diagonally to compensate in the opposite direction.
Once everything is glued and the glue is completely dry, remove excess glue with a chisel. It's best to leave the glue until it's completely dry so you don't risk spreading it over a wider area by wiping it off.
Next important point is a place to sit.
The seat is actually a simple square piece of wood, 42.5cm along the grain, 42cm across the grain, 16mm thick, with the back corners cut out.
To install the seat, glue another mount onto the apron, in which holes should be drilled for attaching the seat. The holes are also made to prevent them from cracking at the points where they are clamped with self-tapping screws when humidity changes.
Beautiful and elegant chair with backrest – best decoration For home interior, which, moreover, has a practical function.
A handmade product cannot be compared with something purchased in a store. Show your imagination and complement the chair original design and the masterpiece is ready!
Materials for production
To make a chair you can use the following materials:
- Metal– durable, reliable material with a long service life. However, it is not the best option for creating a chair, as it is suitable for public places, in extreme cases, for outdoor furniture. Metal furniture will not bring comfort to the environment;
- Plastic– cheap and available material, but just like metal, it is not always suitable for home interiors. It all depends on the design;
- Tree known for qualities such as environmental safety, strength, durability. It is more convenient and pleasant to work with various wood species and their derivatives. When choosing what type of wood to make a chair from, stop at oak, pine or beech. It is important that the material is good dried and without knots. Working with beech and oak is much more difficult, but it looks very elegant and presentable;
- Often in carpentry they resort to using plywood, Chipboard or OSB, however, these materials “lose” to natural wood in all respects.
Making a wooden chair with a back
To make a wooden chair with a back, you need to prepare materials with certain parameters:
- Bars with parameters 40mm*60mm and 40mm*40mm;
- Edged board (400mm*480mm, thickness - from 10 to 15 mm), intended for sitting;
- Edged board (100mm*420mm), which serves as the back of the chair;
- Fabric for seat upholstery;
- Foam rubber (corresponding to the size of the seat);
- Glue;
- Sandpaper for sanding;
- Screws.
You can purchase ready-made, processed planed timber, or you can make it yourself. To do this, it is enough to plan the material using a plane and sand it with sandpaper in several stages.
For the first stage of polishing, paper numbers from 100 to 120 are suitable, and to add shine to the wood, use numbers above 220.
To work with wood and make a chair you will need the following tools:
- Saw with small teeth;
- Mallet;
- Clamps (a tool for tightly compressing parts);
- Plane;
- Chisel;
- Stapler for construction purposes;
- Conductors for furniture (additional fastening elements).
Drawings and standard dimensions
At your disposal is a drawing of the simplest one with a backrest. The dimensions of this chair are standard - you can follow them or make the desired changes:
- A- hind leg ( 80cm);
- B– front leg ( 44cm);
- IN, G– seat ( 40cm*48cm);
- D– back.
Stages of work
Let's look at the process of making a chair with a back in stages:
- Making a chair begins with preparing its individual components. First, cut the timber into four parts. Two of them should be 80 cm long (for the rear legs), and the other two should be 44 cm long (for the front legs);
- Make grooves in the parts using a chisel intended for the crossbar, as well as the transverse and longitudinal base. Make sure they are at the same height. The parameters of each groove are 20mm*40mm*17mm. The distance between the inner edge of the leg and the edge of the groove is 10 mm. Grooves are made on adjacent parts;
- The back legs of the chair should taper smoothly. For this purpose, their outer edges are carefully planed at the top and bottom to 40 mm;
- For the bases and legs (slats that connect the legs of the chair), 4 bars are cut (35cm long, 40mm*40mm). At the ends of the parts there will be spikes, which at this stage need to be cut out (11mm). Make sure that the sizes of the tenons and grooves match;
You might also be interested in how to make a wooden stair railing:
- Transverse bases (42cm, 40mm*40mm) and spikes on them are made in a similar way;
- Acts as a backrest edged board with spikes and parameters 80-100mm*42mm. To attach the backrest to the back legs, make grooves in them;
- Self-tapping screws are used to secure the seat;
- At the final stage, the legs and back are processed - the elements are slightly rounded to avoid sharp corners. All surfaces of the product must be thoroughly sanded;
- All components are treated with varnish (preferably odorless). You can emphasize the naturalness of the wood and choose a transparent varnish, or paint the chair in the desired shade and polish it;
- Make a soft seat for the high chair by cutting out a piece of foam rubber that is a couple of centimeters smaller wooden base. Cover the foam with durable fabric and staple it to the seat. You can sew a beautiful one for a chair and decorate it at your discretion;
- You can start assembling the chair. To do this, all the spikes are treated with glue and driven into the grooves. For strength, the parts are knocked down with a mallet or pressed with clamps. The back and seat are screwed on.
Covered cool terrace – great place For country holiday, best place For family dinners on a hot summer afternoon.
Plastic table For several years he successfully coped with the role of a dinner person, until he broke down under the unexpected weight of a careless guest. I had to look for a replacement table because... the amount of damage was critical.
The best option became homemade table, taken one morning on December 31st to celebrate the New Year by a large company. Then it was assembled from those purchased online hardware store furniture panels and finished metal legs.
I must say that the table with a wooden top fits perfectly into the new interior terraces, framed supporting structure made of unpainted textured pine, but the plastic chairs, alas, were clearly discordant. Therefore, the need was born, and behind it the idea, to make wooden chairs for the terrace, so to speak, to “fill out the set.” Terms of reference was formulated like this. The chair should be durable, comfortable, beautiful and inexpensive, made from available materials, using existing tools, without the use of complex equipment, precise milling and adhesive joints.
In search of suitable material, my gaze fell on the guest bed. Once upon a time, back in the last century, I made a bunk bed for my daughters. For the upper tier, we managed to obtain several oak boards in that distant and difficult time. The daughters have grown up long ago. Bunk bed Over time, it turned into two ordinary ones. And not so long ago, the oak bed moved to the dacha as a guest sleeping place. And now another “reincarnation” awaits the rich wood.
Of course, availability factor good stuff influences the design decision. The parts can be made relatively thin and durable, using simple fastening fittings and simple manufacturing technology. A pleasant bonus from using oak is its beautiful appearance and good resistance of the finished product to fluctuations in humidity and temperature.
It’s time to materialize what was planned into a project. Having spotted some ideas in industrial and handicraft production samples, I started modeling.
How did we live without computers?
The preliminary design turned out like this.
Basic dimensions from the above plastic chairs. The depth and width of the seat, the angle of the backrest and the width of the armrests have been slightly increased. I wanted to get not just an ordinary chair, but a chair on which I could sit and eat and relax.
I extract all the main dimensions from the computer model and make sketches of the parts.
Fine art is over. I move from the computer to the workbench. The bed is undergoing a global restructuring, I wouldn’t want to lose it for the sake of chairs sleeping place. I replace the oak parts of the bed with new parts made from pine boards in a hurry.
I saw the headboard that was put into production using a jigsaw.
Using manual circular saw I cut the boards into bars, approximately 33-34mm wide. Hard wood cuts more slowly than pine, but still without any problems.
Irregularities left over from the circular saw handmade, after all, I clean it with an electric planer. The surface of the wood remains flat and smooth. You can avoid further sanding. Using the same plane, I remove right angles along the bars and make chamfers. For comfortable work I use wood pads with a diamond cutout. These simple devices securely hold the block “on the edge”.
For one chair, I select nine bars of the required length.
Armed with a pencil, tape measure and square, I make dimensional markings. A miter saw purchased at one time for production garden paths from decking boards, is perfectly suited for cutting bars at the desired angle, of which there are many in our parts.
Back sections under sharp corners It’s problematic to do them with a miter saw, so I do them with a jigsaw. Cutting blade expectedly “walks”, but this is not a problem. I clamp a couple of parts together and smooth out the uneven surfaces with a sander and a coarse-grit belt.
Next up is the crucial moment, marking and drilling holes in the bars for furniture screws. The strength of the chair and its beauty depend on the quality and accuracy of the assembly of three parts: the back leg, back and seat, forming the main load-bearing triangle. Inaccurate assembly of this unit may result in stylish item interior, a lame freak may be born.
Such furniture screws (confirmations) and a special drill can be purchased at a hardware store. I had the screws, but I decided to buy a drill, although I had previously made do with three ordinary drills, with a diameter of 5, 7 and 10 mm.
I haven’t made the holes for the screw that fastens the parts of the back and seat yet. A little later I will make this mount “in place”.
I begin assembling the left and then the right “triangle” of the frame. I connect the rear leg with the parts of the back and seat with two 7x75mm confirmations.
I clamp the left and right pair of frame parts in a vice. Here it is possible to correct small errors by grinding the end of the seat part of one of the assembled “triangles” in order to achieve their maximum symmetry.
I make holes “in place” and then screw in furniture screws connecting the parts of the back and seat without removing the assembly from the vice.
Next up are the armrests. For them I take a regular pine board. I cut rectangular blanks to size. I make the roundings with a jigsaw with a narrow blade. Using a plane I bring the thickness to 15 mm. I perform the final processing of curves and surfaces with a grinder.
I connect the front leg with the seat part using a confirmat. There is still only one attachment point and therefore the leg does not hold rigidly.
I clamp one of the “triangles” in a vice. I apply the armrest to the upper ends of the legs. I level it and press it a little with my hand. I make a hole “in place” to attach the armrest to the rear leg. I hold the axis of the drill at a right angle to the plane of the armrest.
For this connection I use shorter screws. I have 7x55mm, this length is quite enough.
Placing the front leg in a vice, I orient its upper edge at the 35 mm mark from the front edge of the armrest. Having drilled a hole “in place”, I fasten the armrest and the front leg, which now becomes a full-fledged part of the rigid half of the frame.
The last operation of this stage is connecting the backrest and armrest. Here you need a long furniture screw.
I am also assembling the second half of the frame.
I get to work on the planks for the seat and back. I had “lining” in stock, two two-meter boards. They are polished, quite thin, about 10 mm thick, light and durable. I cut out the eight parts I need to size, make holes for the mounting screws, and deepen the holes for the caps.
The process of installing the seat and backrest at the same time is the final operation of assembling the chair. It's very simple. To one of the frame halves clamped in a vice, planks are sequentially attached at intervals of 1 cm. You just need to maintain a right angle between the parts. I use 3x35mm wood screws. For the top plank of the backrest, I take short self-tapping screws, 18-20mm long.
