Let's consider key points designing a sewer system in a house on screw piles: the location of the main pipelines and the procedure for their insulation, as well as a schematic diagram of the sewer system in a private house. Screw piles and sewerage are directly related. +
Choosing instead of the usual comfort of a city apartment private house, no one wants to put up with inconvenience in everyday life. Sewerage, along with electricity, water supply and others engineering networks occupies a key position in home improvement. Correct device sewerage consists of two stages: providing water supply and its removal. +
In private low-rise construction Two types of sewerage are used: +
- centralized - part of the local sewer network;
- individual - equipped in the absence of local centralized networks, requires coordination with the State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision, and when discharging wastewater into a reservoir - with environmental protection.
Design Issues sewer systems covered in the following SNiPs: +
- 2.04.01 " Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings";
- 2.04.03 “Sewerage. External networks and structures";
- 3.05.01 “Internal sanitary systems”;
- 3.05.04 “External networks and structures of water supply and sewerage”;
- 02/31/2001 “Single-apartment residential houses.”
Features of sewerage in houses on screw piles
The preference for a pile-screw foundation imposes only one essential requirement on sewer installation: the ditch for laying pipes must be at a standardized distance from the piles. That is why a project is prepared in advance, where the plan shows the placement of screw piles and sewers.
Schematic diagram of sewerage
Clause 5.1.2. SNiP 02/31/2001 into the sewer system in a house on screw piles, connected to centralized network, includes: +
- internal network;
- release from the building;
- outlet pipeline.
Build if necessary autonomous sewerage, the schematic diagram is supplemented by a septic tank and treatment facilities. +
Internal sewer network
The choice of size and configuration of the internal sewer network is determined by: +
- dimensions of the house;
- location of water supply sources.
Included internal network includes plumbing fixtures (sinks, sinks, toilets, bidets, bathtubs, showers, washing and dishwashers etc.), which require their own drain to operate. Schematic diagram The internal sewer network consists of: +
- The main line with a diameter of 100 mm, to which the toilet and bidet are connected;
- The main line with a diameter of 50 mm, to which all other plumbing fixtures in the bathroom and toilet are connected;
The main line with a diameter of 50 mm, to which all plumbing fixtures and equipment in the kitchen are connected. +
External sewerage
The lack of connection to a centralized sewer network forces the installation of a wastewater collection tank on the site. According to the standard, it should not be located closer than 5-8 m from the house. The reservoir and the house sewer network are connected by a discharge pipeline laid in a trench with a slope of 2-2.5 cm per linear meter pipes. +
What to choose: a septic tank or a cesspool?
The wastewater from the discharge pipeline is collected in a reservoir, which can be a septic tank or cesspool. +
A cesspool is a deep pit dug in the ground and reinforced with brick or concrete. Some of the wastewater decomposes, some goes into the ground, but most of it remains in the pit, so it is regularly pumped out. This type of tank is suitable for private houses with a small amount of drainage, or for the time being until a septic tank is built. +
A septic tank consists of a settling tank where wastewater is decomposed bacterially to an insoluble residue. The clarified wastewater enters the filtration well and then disperses through the filter layers into the ground. Extremely rare (compared to cesspool) you will have to clean the septic tank from insoluble residues.
Is it necessary to insulate the sewer system in a house on screw piles?
Often concrete foundation chosen precisely because it reliably protects the house from the cold, including protecting sewer and water pipes from freezing. Regulatory documents claim: there is no fundamental difference in the insulation of sewers under foundations of various types. +
Concrete easily conducts heat, so it only protects the pipes from the wind, so in both cases the pipes need insulation, and in cold regions, heating. This is much more profitable than heating the entire space under the floor of the house, unless it is used for any purpose. A number of measures will allow you to eliminate the cost of pipe insulation from the estimate. +
Highway slope. Maintaining an inclination angle of 2-2.5 cm for each linear meter of the sewer line guarantees the movement of waste in the direction of the reservoir by gravity, which will prevent plugs from forming and freezing of the pipes.
Year-round use hot water . The water supply runs the risk of freezing at any time negative temperature, while the sewer drains are replenished hot water, so they are not in danger of freezing.
Laying pipes below the ground freezing level. According to SNiP 2.04.03-85, in the North-Western and Central regions, pipes should be laid to a depth of 1.2-1.5 m.
It is important to comply with all these conditions exactly, because only then can you avoid spending on insulating sewer pipes. +
Errors and their consequences
Typical mistakes when designing and laying sewer systems in a house screw piles: +
· Excessive proximity of piles to the sewer trench leads to loosening of the soil and weakening bearing capacity piles; +
· Outdated building materials lead to higher cost estimates, so you shouldn’t give up modern ones plastic pipes, which, in addition to low price, have a long service life; +
· 90-degree turns should be eliminated, replacing each with two 45-degree turns, since each right angle increases the risk of blockage; +
· The use of pipes of a smaller diameter than those recommended by SNiP will lead to blockages due to insufficient bandwidth. +
Quite a lot of time passed thinking about how to lay out sewer pipes.
After all, the house stands on screw piles, the underground is cold. Despite the fact that sewer pipes are empty most of the time, they can freeze due to condensation of moisture entering the pipes along with air from the septic tank.
Schematic diagram
After considering different options, I decided to do this.
- The main line is 110mm. There is a main drain line of 110 diameter that runs under the house to the corner. There is a vertical transition and then the pipe goes underground to the septic tank. Why not go straight into the ground? Firstly, because I’m too lazy to dig under the piles. Secondly, there is a fairly long distance to the septic tank and a high groundwater level. If the required slope is observed, the pipe will approach the septic tank at a decent depth, which increases the labor costs for its implementation.
The air area will be well insulated in the future. - Secondary highways. There are several of them in the house, in addition to sinks, a shower and a toilet, there are also emergency drains in wet rooms (an extremely useful thing) and water drains from household appliances. It was decided to install these pipes in the ceiling. With exits to the toilet or independent exits to the main highway under the house.
In the diagram: orange line, the main line, running through the air insulation, blue, those that run in the ceiling.
Branch 1
pipe of 40 diameter from the washing machine, then switch to 50, connect to the shower drain branch, exit to the washroom at the toilet and down to the main line
Branch 2
An emergency drain from the technical room, on the way to this branch the emergency drain of the bathroom is connected, through the sink drain we lead everything into the main line.
Branch 3
The drain from the kitchen sink connects to the emergency drains in the steam room and dives into the main line.
The central highway runs at a slight angle, because direct installation under the house is hampered by the diagonal jibs that connect the screw piles + there is a Christmas tree growing on the corner of the house, into which the pipe would directly rest.
Practical implementation
The implementation began with branch number 3, since its practical implementation was the simplest. Everything fit very comfortably between the joists, with the required slopes.
Then came the turn of line number 2. Which turned out to be the most difficult due to its length.
In order to make the required slope, I had to cut the counter joists, making a channel in them for the passage of the pipe.
And cut part of the counter joists from below so that the pipe passes under them:
And experiment a little, connecting the drain from the bathroom to this branch.
The last branch, from the washing machine and shower, was made according to the same principle
Sewerage in a frame house is one of the conditions for comfortable and cozy living. It is extremely important to follow all the rules and regulations when laying external and internal sewage systems, otherwise it may very soon stop working or become clogged, leaving residents without basic amenities. We will look at how to make a sewer system in a frame house in compliance with all requirements.
Sewerage in a frame building
The sewerage system in an internal frame house includes communications for drainage, which are connected directly to plumbing and household appliances in the room. To organize a water drainage system, plastic pipes are mainly used in a frame house.
Compared to cast iron products, plastic pipes have the following advantages: they are easy to install and do not have much weight, deposits do not form on the internal walls, and they have a long service life.
Wall installation saves space.
Pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are connected directly to household and plumbing equipment; all other wiring, including the general connecting water supply, is carried out using pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
The internal sewage system in the frame is schematically divided into the following components:
- Plumbing fixtures.
- Discharge sewer pipes.
- Central riser.
- Fan pipe.
Installation of drains. Internal sewerage in a frame house begins with the development of a basic layout of all elements of the system. At the next stage, the location for the central riser is determined. Next, all communications are installed, a sewer outlet is installed, and a central riser is installed. At the final stage of the work, the wiring is connected, the drain pipe is removed, and commissioning work is carried out.
Sewage installation
Sewer pipes in a frame house can be installed in an open or closed pattern. The first installation method is used extremely rarely, since the pipes from the outside do not look attractive from an aesthetic point of view and do not fit into.
The sewerage scheme of a frame house involves placing plastic pipes inside the walls, under the floor or in the ceiling. This method looks more aesthetically pleasing, but the process of carrying out construction, repair and maintenance work is significantly more complicated.
Pipes in the ceiling of the building. The routing of sewerage in a frame house through the bathroom begins with drawing up a sewerage diagram, taking into account the placement of such premises in the house as the kitchen, toilet, and laundry room. If the diagram is drawn up at the design stage of a frame house, during construction all technological holes are made in the walls and ceilings. This construction principle can significantly reduce the cost of installing sewerage in a frame house.
It is important to correctly determine the location of the central sewer riser, to which pipes from all internal sewerage sources will be led. The sewer riser in a frame house is best located in close proximity to the toilet in the house, this is due to the fact that according to the standards, the pipe from the toilet to the riser should not be longer than 1 meter. The length of the sewer pipes and their placement in the house will depend on the location of the riser in the house.
Installation of sewerage in a frame house must be carried out with a slope. According to current standards and regulations, it is advisable to maintain a slope of 20 mm for each meter of sewer pipes. Failure to comply with this requirement may result in too frequent clogging of the sewer or slow drainage.
Internal sewerage
Since in our country the basement in a frame house is often abandoned in favor of 2-3 floors, it is advisable to leave a working underground at the foundation construction stage, under which drains will be laid. If it is not possible to organize an underground floor, the sewer branches to the main riser are laid as low as possible in compliance with the standard slope.
Layout diagram
At the first stage of arranging a sewer system in a frame house, you select a schematic diagram of the location of sewer pipes with your own hands. The stage begins at the design stage of the house. It is advisable to choose a size of floor joist such that even large sewer pipes can fit between them.
Layout diagram. At the second stage, a diagram of the location of the sewer system in the house is outlined. From each toilet there is a line with a diameter of at least 110 mm, from the kitchen, shower, dishwasher and washing machine - a line with a diameter of about 50 mm. Tees and turns must be marked on the diagram. Next, the required meters of plastic pipes are calculated and the necessary building materials are purchased.
Fan pipe
At the third stage, work is carried out with the arrangement of ventilation for each branch. The stage is extremely rarely held in our country. Moreover, in cases where the sewer line is made in the form of a “blind” section, often during the draining of water in the siphon the water lock breaks down, resulting in an unpleasant sewer smell from the septic tank.
Note
You can avoid the appearance of sewer odor by installing a ventilation outlet connected to the drain riser, or by using special vacuum valves.
At the final, fourth stage, audit access to each branch of the sewer main is organized. Inspection access allows you to quickly remove the blockage: the hatch is opened, the plug is unscrewed, and with the help of a special cable the blockage is pushed into the house riser.
Sewage system in a frame structure on stilts
In a frame house, which is built on a strip or slab foundation, the outlet pipe is located under the foundation at a minimum distance to both the riser and the septic tank. In this case, the trench is below the soil freezing level; as a result, the pipes do not need additional protection. Sewerage in a frame house on stilts has a number of features.
Communications on stilts under the floor. Things are much more complicated with the arrangement of sewerage in a frame house on. In this case, the pipe runs from the house to the ground through an open space. If the necessary measures are not taken during installation, when the air temperature drops to negative levels, the outflow of sewer water through the pipes will quickly be blocked due to freezing of the liquid.
In houses with pile foundations, various methods are used to insulate pipes. Insulation can be carried out in several ways:
- A special shaft is assembled from polyurethane foam boards, through which external sewer pipes are passed.
- Use of special thermal insulation materials.
- Sewer pipe covers are placed on the pipes to prevent freezing.
Regardless of the method used, the home owner faces the same task - to protect sewer pipes that are located above the freezing depth of the soil from sub-zero temperatures. You can see all the main points about how sewerage is done in a frame house (video installation).
External sewerage
External sewerage in a frame house includes a centralized drain pipe and a septic tank for wastewater treatment. The centralized pipe in the area from the exit from the house to the connection with the septic tank must be insulated using special heat-insulating materials and buried in the ground to a depth below the freezing point.
Failure to comply with the rules for thermal insulation of the central pipe can result in serious problems: from simple freezing of liquid and disruption of the outflow of wastewater, to a pipe break. At the same time, it is extremely difficult to carry out work on repairing the sewer system in winter conditions.
Septic tank for frame. Septic tank
A septic tank in a frame house is a special system that is used to sediment and filter human waste. Filtration is carried out by mechanical action or with the help of special bacteria; the type of filtration depends on the design of the septic tank. You can equip the system on the site yourself using reinforced concrete rings, or purchase a ready-made device.
After filtration, relatively clean water comes out of the septic tank; it undergoes additional purification while seeping through the ground, as a result, the wastewater becomes absolutely safe and does not pollute the ground. Regardless of the septic tank used, the system requires maintenance every 3-5 years.
How to properly insulate water supply and sewer systems
Schematic diagram of insulation of water supply to a bathhouse frame installed on screw piles
Layers of insulation of a water pipe at the water inlet into the bathhouse
Often, as an argument in favor of building a bathhouse on a strip foundation rather than on screw piles, considerations are given about the impossibility of installing winter communications, water and sewerage in the underground space of the log house. The strip foundation seems to be warmer and protects the pipes from freezing. Let’s not deny that “bare” screw piles and concrete strips with closed vents retain heat differently. However, to protect communications from freezing, it is better to provide local protection (insulation and heating) of pipes, rather than warming up the entire underground space under the bathhouse. In severe frosts, strip foundations cannot always maintain a positive temperature under the log house, because the floors of the log house are insulated and do not allow heat to pass down, and besides, according to the laws of physics, warm air always rises to the top. Any temperature below 0°C is enough for a water pipe to freeze. Freezing of a sewer pipe of standard diameter (110 mm), taking into account the fact that warm water enters the drain, often with organic impurities, and does not linger in the pipe, is practically impossible in any case that occurs in our latitudes (in Moscow and St. Petersburg) negative temperatures.
To prevent the water pipe under the bath house from freezing, the pipe from the water intake source (no matter what: central water supply, well or well) is laid underground below the freezing depth of the soil. For the Central and North-Western regions of Russia, the freezing depth is in the range of 120-150 cm and depends on how much snow fell in a particular winter, what kind of frost there was and how much water is contained in the surface layer of soil at the site where the bathhouse is built. The ditch for the water pipe is inserted inside the dimensions of the log house, so that the pipe can be lifted strictly vertically and get to the right place in the bathhouse. It is not allowed to lay water pipes horizontally in the underground space - this can lead (and will certainly lead - a matter of time) to freezing of the pipe. For pipes, it is best to use HDPE (low-density polyethylene) pipe with a diameter of 32 mm (inch). HDPE pipes can withstand repeated freezing without compromising the integrity of the structure. So even if they are completely frozen, it is enough to simply warm them up.
To insulate a vertical section of a water pipe (from the freezing depth to the entry into the bathhouse), a heating cable is wound onto it in a free spiral, then a casing made of foamed polyethylene is put on, after which the entire structure is placed in a drainage pipe with a diameter of 200 mm, into which expanded clay is poured. For waterlogged soils, instead of backfilling with expanded clay, we recommend pouring foam. The bottom of the insulating drainage pipe is laid at the freezing depth, the top is brought to the floors inside the log house of the bathhouse. The heating cable does not have to be turned on all the time: only in severe frosts or if, after a break in the use of the water supply, water has stopped flowing into the bathhouse due to the formation of an ice plug in the pipe.
It is best to also thermally insulate sewer pipes running in the open part of the subfloor under the bathhouse frame using casings made of foamed polyethylene. If pipes with a diameter of less than 110 mm, for example 40 or 50 mm, are used to drain wastewater from a bathhouse, for safety reasons we recommend running a heating cable along the bottom of the pipe (not in a spiral, as in a water pipe, but in one line, strictly below). It is permissible to stretch sewer pipes in a horizontal direction (a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 m of length for fecal waste; for water drainage, the slope is not important), however, the shorter the horizontal section in the underground space of the bath house is and the faster the pipe gets underground and then into septic tank (or other type of wastewater intake), the less likely it is for ice to freeze and clog inside the pipe.
While completing the walls of my frame house, I realized that it was time to think about future communications. At the same time, real autumn began, which meant rains and time for research. It's time, I decided. Now is the time to take care of communications while waiting for dry days - and I sat down to prepare for the design and subsequent wiring of communications in my future frame house.
Of course it's better to have project of all communications: heat supply, water supply, sewerage, ventilation and electrics at the frame design stage. But few amateur builders can afford this, because there is simply not enough time to study everything before starting construction. And there’s no time at all at the construction site.
For now, this post is quite theoretical, since I have just started working in communications. I will definitely update this text when the time comes, and when my experience in installation and design of communications is fully accumulated and meaningful.
I hope that my research on the design of communications in a frame house will be useful to you. Moreover, voting on the site showed particular interest in this topic.
Communications in a frame house. Review
Brief overview communications traditionally held in a frame house:
- heating
- ventilation
- electrician
Communications in a frame house. Heating
First of all, you need to decide what fuel to use for heating your frame house.
Heating can be gas (mainline or from a cylinder), electric, diesel or solid fuel (in particular, a stove).
After you have decided on the fuel, you need to select the heating pipes:
— polypropylene(PPR) - the simplest option and the most frequently used “by the people”. Among the advantages: the cheapness of pipes and fittings (although real European PPR is no longer so cheap, if the PPR is very cheap, think about it, this is clearly a Chinese fake), ease of installation (even by a non-professional), the tools you need are special budget scissors and the same budget soldering iron. disadvantages: not the most reliable pipe, the quality of installation is not obvious (you can’t look inside).
— metal-plastic- also a frequently used material. Pros: pipe flexibility, easy installation, average price. of the minuses: frequent complaints about the quality of pipes and the tightness of fittings.
— cross-linked polyethylene PeX- a more decent material, used for underfloor heating pipes. Pros: reliability, durability. of the minuses: the price is already decent, you need an expensive tool for installation, installation is more complicated, the pipe is “unruly”.
— copper- the most expensive and “cool” material. In Canada, this is essentially the only one they use. A very durable material, but also very expensive (but then the fittings are cheap).
For installation you only need a torch and, most importantly, “straight” hands. They often say that in the end the cost turns out to be a little more expensive than even PPR, I myself have not yet decided on the final opinion, but copper is certainly good.
I'm leaning towards cross-linked polyethylene like the golden mean in terms of price/quality. But, of course, I’m not talking about polyethylene from Rehau, it’s “golden” in price, there are decent analogues for it in Russia at an affordable price.
Frame house Can be heated with both underfloor heating and radiators. The second, although not so beautiful, is much simpler and more repairable, but we are building a frame for ourselves? I chose bimetallic radiators for myself, which combine the advantages of steel (strength) and aluminum (heat dissipation) radiators.
Perhaps I will still install heated floors, but I will add this information to the post later.
Now you need to decide heating system.
It happens like single-pipe, so two-pipe. Single-pipe is a relic of the past and now it is not recommended to use it, the pipes for it need to be thick, and the heat regulation in it is lame. So I am definitely in favor of a two-pipe heating system in a frame house, and in any other one.
After choosing a system (if it is a two-pipe system), you need to determine whether your pipes will go in the same direction throughout the house ( serial circuit), or in two or even three ( collector circuit). In the first case, if the route turns out to be too long, then the last rooms in this sequence may not have enough heat, do not forget also the need for “high thresholds” at the entrance doors, a pipe will go into them, so I am in favor of a two-pipe collector system.
For example, it looks like this:
Correct connection of a large radiator (diagonal). 
If you do not connect it diagonally, but, for example, make both the entrance and exit from it in its lower parts, then such a radiator will give off much less heat, it will simply not warm up all the way.
Communications in a frame house. Electrics
The power supply system of a frame house consists of an external and internal electrical network. The internal one, in turn, consists of a panel, sockets, switches and current consumers. In our area, the current is usually connected from a pole through the air, after which the input node into the house must be grounded again, even if grounding has already been done at the pole.
First, we decide on the layout, then we think through all future consumers (household appliances, appliances, etc.) in our layout. It is especially necessary to determine precisely the “special” consumers (stove, refrigerator, hob, boiler,
These consumers are special, they either have their own special machine or they must be placed on a special non-disconnected line, etc. This is not your headache, but the headache of the designer of your future shield (I would not dare to design the shield myself, there are a lot of subtleties in this matter).
It's best to find a professional you trust. As with, it is better to trust this matter to an experienced designer, and not to a fly-by-night company.
After you have designed and installed the shield, you will need to route the cables from the circuit breakers around the house. Ideally, you should be provided with a specific panel diagram with an explanation for each machine. In my case, it looks like this: 
Those. from two circuit breakers that are attached to one RCD there are 3 phase wires going to 3 bedrooms. And already there they come to the first block of sockets in the bedroom, from which they go to the second block of sockets, etc. The same applies to the kitchen and living room and other rooms.
Ideally, you also need to have a separate shield for (if you have one in the house).
This is what my two electrical panels look like: 
Communications in a frame house. Sewerage
Through the sewer system in a frame house There are a lot of materials on the Internet, so let’s just look at the sewerage diagram in a frame house and methods for installing sewer pipes in a frame house.
Sewage pipes are laid with a slope of 2 centimeters per meter so that everything rolls down and does not freeze. At the same time, they do not need to be buried to the freezing depth; even half a meter will be enough, because Liquids there run quickly and do not have time to freeze. Just remember to help hard waste get to the right place and drain more water along with it.
Sewer pipes have a standard diameter of 110 mm. Outside the house and underground, you must use red pipes; inside (and under the house, but in the air) you can use gray pipes.
Internal sewerage can be installed directly in the floor joists (the most common option), or above the floor (not very beautiful).
The best option for a container for draining sewage, in my opinion, is a regular plastic septic tank with 2-3 cubic meters, I have my eye on septic tank "Mole", it has fairly thick walls (stiffening ribs 15 cm), round shape and at an adequate price, as well as delivery throughout Russia (5 thousand rubles to Nizhny Novgorod, if my memory serves me correctly).
Other advantages of this septic tank (according to the manufacturer and reviews on the forumhouse) are that it will not float up at high groundwater levels, due to the anti-float fastener welded to the septic tank in production, which means there is no need to pour a concrete slab under the septic tank.
General diagram of external sewerage and drain riser. 
In the picture: 1 - septic tank, 2 - filter well, 3 - fan exhaust riser.
Sewage discharges first enter the septic tank for primary natural purification, where contaminated sediment is released, and the “clarified” water goes into the filter well. After which, even more purified water goes into the lower layers of the soil. such a system is only allowed if the groundwater is no closer than a meter in depth from the bottom of your filter well (and with sufficient soil absorption).
And here is a video with the installation of a horizontal “Mole” for a frame house:
The liquid comes out of the septic tank after a few days, having already settled, and it can be discharged into a filter well for additional purification with gravel, and then through the gravel into the ground (but this is only possible if the groundwater is no closer than a meter deep from the gravel). By the way, I chose a “Mole” with a volume of 1.8 cubic meters for my house with 3 residents, you don’t need more, you can install it yourself with 1-2 assistants.
Communications in a frame house. Ventilation
Ventilation in a frame house- an absolutely necessary thing, because it works like a huge “thermos” and is completely covered with plastic film, on which steam settles. It needs to be ventilated, and people need fresh air.
Ventilation of a frame house is needed for: the influx of fresh air and the extraction of already used air (with carbon dioxide) outside.
Inflow air in frame houses is usually provided through windows (micro-ventilation, or vent), although there are also options with KIV dampers (and their analogues) mounted directly into the wall, as well as more advanced systems of forced air flow with recovery (but not entirely relevant for an economical home ).
Extracting used air usually done through a pipe that goes from the room to the roof. It can work both in the “natural draft” mode (but this is a problem this summer, because the temperature difference is small, which means it won’t “pull”), and on fans that force air out when turned on (which can be also powered, for example, from the light in the bathroom or kitchen).
Hood in a frame house need to do:
a) in the kitchen (through a special umbrella)
b) in bathrooms (you can go through the wall, but it’s better not to do that)
c) from a gas boiler in the boiler room (possibly through the wall)
d) from the hall with bedrooms (and if there are cracks under the bedroom door, then the air will be drawn out through this corridor from there too)
e) from (if a gas boiler with an open burner is used).
Ventilation of a frame house- this is a very responsible and important matter, do not listen to those who say that the walls “breathe”. A frame house breathes only if you have a frame-slit house from crooked builders; a real frame house does not breathe, it is a thermos with a sealed film inside.
Communications in a frame house. Water supply
In a frame house there can be two options for water supply: central water supply or your own source. Your source is, in turn, a well or borehole.
Both a submersible pump (hanging in the well itself, more reliable) and a station (standing in the boiler room, not so reliable and also often noisy) can operate in a well.
General water supply scheme: 
Let me remind you that we can make it convenient and understandable for you at an affordable price, or select it for you in accordance with your wishes.
Stay in touch, ask questions, let's build the right frame houses!
