System creation forced ventilation allows you to improve the microclimate in residential premises. Now ordinary domestic fans are gradually being forced out of the market by more efficient devices - air conditioners and split systems. However, they continue to be useful in some situations. Connecting a bathroom fan to a switch yourself is quite simple, but it is worth remembering some of the nuances of this process.
Show all
Installation required
The maximum humidity level in an apartment is in the bathroom or combined toilet. These rooms have a small area and often experience sudden changes in temperature. As a result, the risk of mold and mildew spreading increases significantly. These microorganisms are often powerful allergens. If black dots appear on the seams between the tiles or condensation on the plumbing fixtures with mirrors does not dry for a long time, then the system in the room is broken natural ventilation.
To solve the problem, just install a fan in the bathroom. Modern models have convenient controls and attractive design. Thanks to their low noise level and high performance, they can short time create comfortable conditions in the bathroom and toilet. With even minimal knowledge of electrical engineering, you can quickly connect the hood to a common light switch.
Selection criteria
To purchase, just visit a specialized store. However, the manager's recommendations cannot guarantee that the purchased device will be of high quality. In such a situation, there is always a risk of purchasing stale goods. To avoid problems, It is worth studying the issue of choosing an exhaust unit.
How to install a fixed switch on a fan
Main types
Unlike industrial models, a household appliance has smaller dimensions and a smaller power rating. Thanks to the wide variety of these units, you can easily select a ventilation device for almost any room design. Depending on the method of air intake, these devices are divided into two types:- Axial. The blades capture air and move it parallel to the axis.
- Radial. Used to change direction air flow from axial to radial. For this purpose, the design includes a special impeller.
Since the first type of fans is very easy to install, these devices are widely used in everyday life. Ventilation units are also classified according to the installation method - duct and overhead. The first type is characterized by higher power and lower noise levels.
These models are installed inside air ducts. Surface-mounted devices are most often mounted on the wall under the ceiling. It should be noted that in a private house you can use any of these types of fans, but for a city apartment only overhead fans are suitable.
Specifications
Many users, when choosing a ventilation unit, are guided only by its design. However, it is also extremely important to take into account technical specifications cooler. Otherwise, he simply will not cope with the task. First of all, you should pay attention to the following indicators:
- Noise level.
- Performance.
- Degree of security.
The performance indicator is always indicated in the instructions. Most often it is in the range from 50 to 250 m 3 /h. The most comfortable noise level is considered to be 25−30 dB. This indicator must be taken into account in a situation where the unit is planned to be used at night. Since the device will operate in high humidity conditions, preference should be given to models marked with a protection level of IP 44 or IP 45.
Additional devices
Simple devices equipped with an inconvenient control system and differing high level noise are forever a thing of the past. To increase functionality, modern models are equipped additional devices. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the following modifications:
Also in modern models a motion sensor may be built-in. However, the use of this device does not always seem appropriate. But the ventilation function may be of interest. The fans that support it constantly operate at minimum speed, and, if necessary, issue full power.
Before you begin installing the cooler, you should read the instructions. If it is not there, then a low-quality unit was probably purchased or it was imported illegally. To install a fan in the bathroom with your own hands, you will need to spend about 30 minutes of free time. First you need to remove the front panel. Silicone or polymer adhesive is applied to the contact point between the unit and the wall.Since the weight of the plastic device is light, this installation method will be quite sufficient. Then the fan is inserted into a pre-made hole or corrugation and pressed tightly against the wall for several minutes. Next, using self-tapping screws, which are most often included in the delivery package, the front cover is screwed to the body. The connection diagram for a fan with a timer in the bathroom is somewhat more difficult to implement. This device is quite easy to use and is often used in everyday life. Most often, cooler models with a timer have four contacts. The phase conductor is connected to the switch and the corresponding terminal of the device.
The neutral wire is connected to the light bulb and contact N of the fan. The timer's power terminal connects to the switch and connects there to a second wire leading to the light source. The fourth contact of the fan is intended for connecting the grounding conductor. Create a system exhaust ventilation even a beginner can home handyman. If you are using a cooler with a timer, then you must first understand the electrical circuit of the device and its design.
Ventilation of the bathroom and toilet is an integral part of it. Ventilation provides an optimal microclimate in these rooms, both for humans and for objects and interior elements.
Firstly, ventilation significantly reduces the humidity in the room, which is especially important for the bathroom and toilet - rooms with high humidity. Reducing humidity prevents the formation of mold and damage to electrical appliances and interior elements due to increased humidity in the room. Secondly, ventilation eliminates unwanted odors and prevents the growth of bacteria.
Ventilation can be either natural or artificial. If it is not possible to ensure natural insulation of the bathroom and toilet (lack of windows in these rooms, high tightness of windows and doors installed in the apartment), artificial ventilation is used, which is implemented through the installation of fans specifically designed for ventilation of domestic premises.
One of the stages of installing a ventilation system in a bathroom (toilet) is connecting fans to the electrical network. Below we will look at the features of connecting these fans.
When connecting ventilation fans, you should first of all take into account the fact that the bathroom and toilet belong to rooms with high levels of humidity. Consequently, all electrical wiring elements and fittings for its installation must have a housing with a sufficient level of protection from moisture. As a rule, the degree of protection of the housing of mounted structural elements electrical wiring is selected at least IP44.
How are fans connected to the electrical network? IN in this case it all depends on him design features. There are types of fans that are turned on and off by a built-in switch, which is controlled by a cord. By pulling the cord down you can turn the fan on or off.
Some fans have the ability to open and close vent, usually a switch is built into this device for closing and opening the hole. By pulling one rope, the hole opens and the fan starts working; by pulling the other rope, the fan hole closes and it is disconnected from the electrical network.
If the fan does not have the above devices or for one reason or another they are inconvenient to use (for example, if the fan is located quite high relative to the floor), then a switch must be installed to turn the fan on and off. Switches used for lighting equipment are suitable for this purpose, since the fan power is usually small.
As mentioned above, all electrical elements installed in the bathroom, including the switch, must have reliable protection from moisture.
Where to get power for the ventilation fan? Power consumption of this consumer electrical energy It is small, so there is no need to run a separate line to power it. It can be connected to the nearest one, and if it is not available, branch the line from one of the outlets located in the bathroom. If the bathroom has a socket, for example for washing machine, then you can connect the fan from it.
The operating time of the fan in the bathroom or toilet can be set using a timer. For these purposes, both universal timers and fans with built-in timers can be used.
The bathroom ventilation fan can be turned on automatically. The main task of the fan, as mentioned above, is to reduce the level of humidity in the room; based on this principle, it is necessary to automatically turn on the fan if the level of humidity in the room increases. turns on the ventilation fan if the humidity level in the room rises to the set value.
In the case of a toilet, where in addition to reducing humidity levels, a fan eliminates unwanted odors, a humidity level sensor alone will not be enough. In this case, to implement automatic switching on The fan is equipped with a motion sensor. That is, when movement appears in the sensor detection zone, it supplies voltage to the fan and, accordingly, if there is no movement in the sensor detection zone, the fan turns off after some time.
It is advisable to choose a motion sensor that has the ability to set the time after which the load is switched off if there is no movement in the room.
In most cases, the installation of motion and humidity sensors in the room is neglected and is limited to installing a switch to control the fan manually.
To create a favorable microclimate in shower room A high-quality air purification system is required. Forced ventilation in the bathroom efficiently fulfills its duties. It allows you to normalize the functioning of the room, rid it of dampness and high humidity, which is due not only to comfort, but also to sanitary and hygienic standards. It is through the exhaust hole that the space is filled with freshness, which rids it of various microorganisms.
Functionality check
In order to establish the proper functioning of natural air exchange, it is necessary to adhere to following criteria ratings:
- After bathing procedures, fogged mirrors, as well as ceramic tiles and other interior items remain in the room, which indicates a ventilation problem.
- Paper brought to the exhaust vent in the toilet does not press against the barrier grille, this is the second sign of a problem.
You can improve indoor ventilation in the following ways:
- mine cleaning;
- installation of an additional fan;
- installation of a forced air exchange system.
Varieties
It is no secret that when constructing houses, special parameters are provided to regulate the state of hygiene standards. This is what it is installed for. The calculated indicator for the functioning of the system should be 25 m 3 / h of fresh air into the apartment, but if the bathroom is combined, then the indicator increases to 50 m 3 / h. These standards directly apply to natural and artificial ventilation without exception.
Natural air movement allows you to provide freshness to the bathroom and toilet room, guided by the laws of physics. This means that nature, due to the difference in pressure and temperature, independently directs air masses into the house. Separately, it is worth noting a fact that causes significant difficulties during ventilation - the obstacle of closed plastic windows normal functioning of the exhaust vent.
Thus, for better ventilation of the room, they need to be opened more often. An artificial system with the help of installing additional devices will make this task easily feasible. The types of fans are divided into the following:
In addition to this gradation of ventilation design, there is another one. It happens:
- Ductless, i.e. air exchange occurs through generalized shafts of multi-story or private houses.
- Duct. This system is characterized by special connections to areas where intensity is required in the process of purifying atmospheric masses from steam, moisture, unpleasant odors and other harmful components.
In this regard, ventilation in the bathroom and toilet room is installed along with coercive systems, the fan is installed with a dedicated switch, which makes its use very convenient. This method allows you to use the system even while taking water procedures or visiting the toilet.
Choosing a model
In order for the exhaust vent to work smoothly at the maximum of its capabilities, you should be very meticulous in selecting the main functional product - the fan. Therefore, it is necessary to better study individual points that will facilitate the procedure for determining the type of ventilation structure.
Noise level
It is quite natural that when working household appliances produce a certain level of sound. For ventilation equipment, this indicator is always indicated in its passport. Bathrooms and toilets allow you to install a system of approximately 35 decibels, which is considered a high level of sound insulation, since this sound is not perceived by human hearing. Fans with higher sound levels are already considered unsuitable for use due to their irritability.
Engine
The device for the toilet room must have the necessary power, as well as a long safety margin. It is these indicators that the fan motor responds to. Upon inspection, you should immediately pay attention to its structure. There must be ball bearings and installed bushings, on which the life of the engine depends, as well as the level of noise produced. Such models are rightfully considered the most productive, durable, and silent.
Performance
This indicator is considered one of the most important for the functioning of the entire ventilation system. Due to the performance, you can calculate how much fresh air reaches the bathroom or toilet space during 60 minutes of operation. It is necessary to understand that fan performance is directly related to the following parameters:
- area of the room;
- humidity level;
- number of active users.
The required performance of ventilation equipment can be established using a fairly simple formula. It is necessary to multiply the total volume of the required room by a multiple of the air exchange value, an indicator which, in turn, will be the value of the amount of complete change of atmosphere in the toilet space. For a bathroom, the approximate multiplicity will be equal to an indicator from 7 to 10 units.
Today, it is obvious that technology does not stand still, so modern market already provides innovative ventilation system units with the following functions:
- automatic connection to the switch;
- independent work when a certain humidity level is reached;
- software installation of tasks according to various criteria.
Model types
Ventilation structures can be equipped using various designs, which significantly improve performance characteristics. They are divided into:
Equipment installation
Today, almost each of us can install a ventilation structure independently. For successful completion, you need to take into account literally a few useful tips:
- You need to make sure that the common air shaft is not clogged; if the answer is negative, then it should be cleaned.
- It is best to create a small gap under the door for reliable traction or install a grill on the doorway.
- The success of ventilation directly depends on properly selected equipment. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the performance of the fan, its safety and functionality in advance.
- Exhaust models must discharge atmospheric masses into a common air outlet channel through a special opening. This technological opening is located in every apartment, as it provides natural ventilation.
- Before starting installation, you need to install a wire for power supply.
- Installation of ventilation is carried out only strictly according to the instructions from the manufacturer, which describe all the subtleties of the process.
Video instructions
In modern houses, it is not always possible to achieve high-quality air exhaust using natural ventilation: poor design of the house, changes in the design of the neighbors' hoods. Therefore, quite a long time ago people began to install forced exhaust hoods in their bathrooms. This is necessary in order to pump out air with high humidity, which has a bad effect on almost any material that is used in bathroom renovations. The installation itself on empty walls takes no more than 30 minutes, and will bring you many positive aspects. Fungus, mold, dampness and constant high humidity- all this can be avoided by simply installing an electric hood in the bathroom. In this article we will talk about how to properly install and how to properly connect the fan to the hood.
- In modern houses, it is not always possible to achieve high-quality air exhaust using natural ventilation: poor design of the house, changes in the design of the neighbors' hoods. Therefore, quite a long time ago people began to install forced exhaust hoods in their bathrooms. This is necessary in order to pump out air with high humidity, which has a bad effect on almost any material that is used in bathroom renovations. The installation itself on empty walls takes no more than 30 minutes, and will bring you many positive aspects. Fungus, mold, dampness and constant high humidity - all this can be avoided by simply installing an electric hood in the bathroom. In this article we will talk about how to properly install and how to properly connect the fan to the hood.
Preparing the ventilation duct
The exhaust fan must be installed before laying the tiles. In every modern house, for exhaust hood is already provided ventilation duct. Most often it is located in the corner of the bathroom, between the toilet and the bathtub, in the wall. In order to avoid problems with cutting tiles when further work, it is best to mark the hole for installation, stepping back slightly from the wall. If the hole that was made during design is small for your fan, then you can enlarge it using a hammer drill and a spade attachment. Before continuing work, we pull out the power cable from the switch so that it does not fray, it is necessary to place it in a corrugated tube. The lack of cable complicates the situation. To connect the system, you will have to stretch a VVG wire with 3 copper wires with a cross-section of 1.5 mm.
The purpose of further presentation will be to demonstrate possible connection schemes with brief description their advantages and disadvantages.
Fan without built-in timer
Separate fan switch
Perhaps the most simple circuit connections. The switch can be located either in front of the entrance to the bathroom or indoors in a safe area (where it is prevented from splashing water).
The numbers on the diagram indicate:
1 - general paired circuit breaker in the distribution board.
2 - automatic switch for a dedicated line. For a bathroom, if it only provides lighting and ventilation, wiring with a cross-section of 1.5 mm² will be sufficient, and the line is protected by a circuit breaker with a rating of 10 amperes.
3 - bus for connecting neutral wires.
4 - installation (distribution) box.
5 - single-key switch.
6 - fan terminal block.
It was said above that it is recommended to lay cables with three conductors everywhere. The third wire is simply not shown in this same diagram, since it remains unused in this version. As a rule, plastic overhead axial fans on their block do not have a terminal for connecting a ground loop (PE). That is, everything is limited to the switching of phase L, interrupted at the switch, and zero N.
The diagram (hereinafter) shows junction box. But in reality, many electricians use the space of socket boxes for simple switching circuits. To do this, you can use a socket box of increased depth (60 mm). All connections, for example, made using Wago terminals, will fit perfectly in it, and there will be enough space to install the switch itself. However, here everyone decides for himself - both cases are quite acceptable.
Combined connection of fan and lighting via a single-key switch
As a rule, when planning a home electrical network, they try not to increase the number of switches too much. So you can get by with one that will “serve” both the lighting in the bathroom and it. But two options are possible - the switch can be one-key or two-key.
For starters, the first option, with a single-key switch.
Prices for exhaust fans with check valve
exhaust fan with check valve
Added to the diagram:
7 – circuit connection bus protective grounding.
8 – lighting device. Shown conditionally, since it can be a group of parallel-connected devices, or a power supply with a step-down transformer or driver - if the lamps require it. In any case, there are often metal parts on the housing of the lighting fixtures or power supply. That is, a connection to the protective grounding (PE) line is already required here, especially in damp bathroom conditions.
The scheme itself is also simple to implement, but has a clear drawback. It is quite obvious that the fan will only work when the lights are on. That is, either there will not be enough time for quality ventilation, or for this you will have to leave the light on. Both are not very good. Therefore, such a scheme is rarely used, as it is inconvenient to use. And if the fan is not equipped with a timer, it is better to use a connection via a two-key switch.
Connecting a fan and lighting via a two-key switch
The scheme is similar to the previous one, but there is a significant difference.
This difference lies in the use of conventional two-gang switch. It is placed on the break of the phase wire. And from the switch, from each of its contacts, separate phase wires go to the lighting fixtures and to the fan.
The convenience is obvious - each of the “options” is independent of the other. For short “visits” to the bathroom (WC), when ventilation is not required, only the light is turned on. Nothing prevents you from turning on both at the same time. And finally, you can turn off the lights, but leave the fan running for a while to ensure proper ventilation.
But there is, of course, a drawback. It lies in the forgetfulness of many people. They turned off the lights, left the hood running, and just got busy and forgot about turning it off. It’s not particularly scary, of course, since with the power consumption that is typical for such devices, there won’t be much loss. But still...
This drawback can easily be eliminated by installing a fan with a built-in electronic timer.
Fan with built-in timer
As we have seen, the cost of such fans is somewhat higher. But the ease of their use compensates for these extra costs.
Connection via two-button switch
As in the previous example, lighting and ventilation are switched on separately. But there is one difference, and a fundamental one.
There are no significant changes here in terms of lighting. The phase to it is interrupted at one of the contacts of the two-key switch. In the diagram, this switching section is highlighted in dark gray.
But fan switching is carried out differently. The neutral and phase wires are not interrupted and go to the terminal block to contacts N and L, respectively. But on the second key of the switch, another phase, the control one, is interrupted. And it is connected to the LT terminal contact - timer phase. The fan operation is controlled through it.
This wire is highlighted in the diagram brown. In fact, for this, the remaining unused yellow-green conductor of the cable is usually used, since, as we have already seen, the grounding to the fan does not start. That is why it is initially recommended to immediately lay a three-core cable.
So the lighting functions on its own. And after turning off the key, the fan continues to run for the time set by the user, after which it automatically stops.
Connection via one-key switch
Is it possible to turn on both the light and the fan with one key, so that the ventilation is then turned off with a timer delay? Of course you can. And this can be even much more convenient than using a two-key switch.
There is probably no need for additional explanations regarding the scheme.
It may be objected whether it is worth turning on the ventilation along with the light every time you enter the bathtub for just a minute, for example, to rinse your hands. Yes, of course, this can be considered a certain disadvantage of such a scheme. But some manufacturers took this into account when developing their fan models with a timer. An example of this is the “ERA D 100 4C ET” model already mentioned in the table above. In addition to the fact that it has an electronic timer, it is also possible to select the most suitable operating mode.
The mode switch consists of three pin contacts, two of which are closed by a jumper (jumper). Accordingly, two positions and two operating modes are possible.
- The first mode is called “toilet”. The jumper bridges the upper and middle contacts. The essence of the device’s operation in this mode is that when turned on, the engine immediately starts and normal fan operation begins. For example, at the entrance to the bathroom they clicked single-key switch– the light came on and the hood started working.
When they leave the bathroom, the light is turned off, but the fan continues to run for the time set by the owners on the timer. That is, ventilation continues in the absence of a person. What shutdown delay to set will be determined by the practice of operating the device.
- The second mode is called “bath”. The jumper closes the middle and bottom pin contacts.
Here things are a little different. While the light is on, that is, for example, a person is taking water procedures, the fan will not start working. Convenient - no noise distracts, no draft. But when the lights are turned off it will happen automatic start a fan that will work for the time set on the timer and ensure ventilation of the room in the absence of a person.
And one more nuance of this mode. It will only work if more than a minute and a half passes between turning the light on and off. This means that when a person has been in the bathroom (WC) for less than 90 seconds, we can assume with a high degree of confidence that there is no need for forced ventilation of the room. And the device timer will simply ignore this short-term switching on of the lighting - the fan will not start.
In principle, all the main switching schemes were considered and their advantages and disadvantages were discussed. That is, each owner can choose the option that seems most preferable to him. It can be added that the presence, in addition to the timer, also of a humidity sensor does not in any way affect the principle of fan switching.
* * * * * * *
How to install the fan in place?
Mounting the fan at the installation site is a slightly different topic, more related not to electrical equipment, but to general construction and finishing issues. Therefore, we will not consider them in the context of this article. We can only note that there is no unanimity of views on this problem. As examples, the reader can watch a selection of videos.
Thus, almost all fans are designed to be attached to the wall with screws (dowels).
Video: As recommended by the manufacturer- fan installation on dowels
But many craftsmen prefer not to bother with drilling ceramic tiles near the ventilation vent, and therefore fix the devices with glue. This technique causes a lot of criticism from adherents of the “classical” approach.
Video: As many people do - fixing the fan to the ceramic wall cladding with glue.
And there are completely original installation methods.
Video: “Neither yours nor ours” - an original way to install a fan on O-rings
