By and large, this material is an insulator, since a wall made of 20 cm thick M-25 blocks better protects rooms from the penetration of cold than a structure made of ceramic bricks 51 cm thick.
The low thermal conductivity of shell rock can be easily checked, without the use of special technical means: just put the stone on the stove and heat it up. After a couple of minutes, one side will become very hot, while the other will be just warm, but no more.
But still leave the shell walls without additional insulation shouldn't. And primarily because of the heterogeneity of the structure of this stone. The percentage of porosity from stone to stone can vary significantly, so it is worth purchasing shell rock from one batch.
Even if the purchase is made from the same supplier, it is better to immediately take with a possible reserve. However, this does not guarantee that some shell rock units do not have large or even open pores.
In this case, the shell wall will not breathe, saturating the house with fresh air and regulating its microclimate, but will simply leak through, forcing increased heating costs.
Of course, you can check each stone when purchasing, choose “shells” of the M-25 brand weighing at least 15 kg (and preferably 16 kg), which have a denser structure. But the right measure- installation of an external barrier.
It can be done in several ways, but the most optimal are laying a layer of facing bricks at a distance from the main wall (with ventilation gap), implementation of “wet” insulation technology or creation of a full-fledged ventilated facade (with mineral wool as insulation). Such a house will be warm, reliable and still environmentally friendly.
Finishing issues
The natural texture of the surface of shell rock is indeed a definite decoration in itself and can be advantageously used when designing the interior of a building.
An open shell wall is especially suitable for homes where wood and other materials are used in decoration. natural materials. And yet the whole house is in the loft style (in which the surfaces of the structures and even utility networks intentionally left open) not everyone will like it.
Therefore, in most cases you will need interior decoration. Most experts do not recommend covering walls made of shell rock with plasterboard: drilling of blocks will be required to secure the profiles, and due to the heterogeneity of the structure, it is impossible to guarantee their durability.
Plaster is ideal for finishing “shell” walls. Moreover, it is not necessary to pre-fix the reinforcing metal mesh - shell rock, due to the same porous structure, has high adhesion, that is, the strength of adhesion to other materials.
True, when carrying out work, it is advisable to first carry out the so-called “spraying” - apply a leveling rough layer of mortar. Perform on top of it finishing from cement-sand or gypsum plaster(the latter is only for dry rooms; it is not suitable for bathroom walls).
Shell rock also needs exterior decoration- it is not worth leaving it untreated, since atmospheric exposure can adversely affect its durability. Application with outside The facade of vapor-permeable plaster will protect the stone, and at the same time close the pores of the material and prevent the appearance of drafts in the house.
We have already mentioned shell rock, its characteristics and properties as a building material in the article - “”, here specialist, professional builder Oleg Gots will give advice on how and how to insulate such a house.
They will suit many homes standard construction– for example, covered with a cement “coat” popular in the 90s or plastered and then painted.
The thermal insulation properties of a shell wall, especially if it is only 20 cm, are clearly not enough for modern house. But only its insulation will not solve all problems. In some cases, this should be done last.
First, you should consider the existing attic insulation.
It is effective if it consists of the following “pie” (from bottom to top): vapor barrier film, mineral wool with a thickness of at least 15 cm, hydrobarrier film, plank flooring on joists.
Secondly, you should deal with the floors. They are not only sources of heat loss, but sometimes also conductors of dampness into the house. Capillary moisture, rising from the ground, creates increased humidity in the house and a feeling of cold. To eliminate this problem, you need to vapor-proof the underground space: remove the wooden floor, lay a thin screed on the ground cement-sand mortar, paste one layer of roofing felt over the screed, insulate the foundation walls from the inside and install the insulation on top of the vapor barrier layer.
Upon completion of this work, you can return flooring in place. It is better to use extruded polystyrene foam or high-density mineral wool mats as insulation.
Having solved the problems with ceilings and floors, you can move on to insulating the walls.
Most efficient technology- insulation from outside. IN in this case It will be enough to insulate the house with expanded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 5 centimeters (grade no lower than 25) or façade mineral slabs with a thickness of 7 cm or more.
Before installation, it is necessary to dry test the strength of fastening the dowels to the shell rock. In any case, they should be chosen as long as possible.
A windproof film must be secured over the thermal insulation layer.
As finishing you can use plaster, siding or ventilated façade.
An alternative option is to insulate the house from the inside under the wall plasterboard structures. In this case, use semi-rigid mineral slabs with a thickness of 5 cm and always a vapor barrier film.
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Hello!
We don't work on weekends, sorry.
Look what happens. If the house permanent residence, then option with warm plaster not very suitable, since for Odessa you need an 8.5 cm layer, and this is quite problematic to do well (such a layer thickness). According to calculations, you need 37 mm of cotton wool, if you round up to the items that (in terms of thickness) are on sale, then it is 50 mm. They are rarely 40 mm (maybe they are imported to Odessa, you can check). But you don’t write what type of façade you want. This could be a facade with plastering over insulation, then wool with a density of 135-145 kg/m3, a special position for external plaster, and you are unlikely to find 40 mm of it, it will be 50 mm. If the facade is to be covered with materials such as siding, panels, then wool with a density of 40-60 kg/m3, then a superdiffusion membrane, a gap and cladding. Specify what kind of façade you plan to have. I can’t help with prices, unfortunately, there is too much variation in the positions of wool and plaster (and it’s generally unclear at what prices who does the work).
There is no need to plaster the facade using cotton wool (neither under a facade with lining, nor under a facade with plastering over insulation).
Ask (I will answer on Monday).
Hello friends!
Please help me with advice, here's the gist:
During the construction of a private house, a mistake was made; there was no horizontal waterproofing and the walls were laid out with a “shell” directly on the foundation. The foundation is 140 cm long and has vertical waterproofing; under the foundation there is a cushion of crushed stone 40 cm deep. spring time rises up to 20 cm from the soil surface. Finishing work (neither inside nor outside) has not yet been carried out, but we have now begun work on waterproofing the floor.
1) What is the best way in this case to cut off moisture rising along the foundation? One expert suggested making grooves (inside and outside the building) 2 cm deep in the seams between the foundation and the shell and treating them with KALMAFLEX penetrating waterproofing. There was also advice to drill holes every 10 cm in shells in a checkerboard pattern outside and inside the building and “pour” liquid glass into them.
2) Is there a need to vertically waterproof the walls or treat them in some way to protect them from dampness and mold? The interior will be finished with plasterboard, and the outside will be insulated (foam plastic-50 mm, or basalt wool-50mm) and plaster, the walls will be lined in one “shell” - width 38 cm.
Thanks everyone for participating!
Topic status: Closed.
Topic status: Closed.
The porous structure of shell rock, that is, the presence of air cavities inside it, improves thermal characteristics stone Let's try to figure out whether this is enough for construction warm home Or do you still need to close the pores of the shell rock with finishing?
By and large, this material is an insulator, since a wall made of M-25 blocks with a thickness of 20 cm better protects rooms from the penetration of cold than a structure made of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 51 cm.
The low thermal conductivity of shell rock can be easily checked, without the use of special technical means: just put the stone on the stove and heat it. After a couple of minutes, one side will become very hot, while the other will be just warm, but no more.
But still, shell walls should not be left without additional insulation. And primarily because of the heterogeneity of the structure of this stone. The percentage of porosity from stone to stone can vary significantly, so it is worth purchasing shell rock from one batch.
Even if the purchase is made from the same supplier, it is better to immediately take with a possible reserve. However, this does not guarantee that some shell rock units do not have large or even open pores.
In this case, the shell wall will not breathe, saturating the house with fresh air and regulating its microclimate, but will simply leak through, forcing increased heating costs.
Of course, you can check each stone when purchasing, choose “shells” of the M-25 brand weighing at least 15 kg (and preferably 16 kg), which have a denser structure. But the correct measure is to install an external barrier.
It can be done in several ways, but the most optimal are laying a layer of facing brick at a distance from the main wall (with a ventilation gap), using “wet” insulation technology or creating a full-fledged ventilated facade (with mineral wool as insulation). Such a house will be warm, reliable and still environmentally friendly.
Finishing issues
The natural texture of the surface of shell rock is indeed a definite decoration in itself and can be advantageously used when designing the interior of a building.
An open shell wall is especially suitable for homes where wood and other natural materials are used in decoration. And yet, not everyone will like the whole house in the loft style (in which the surfaces of structures and even utility networks are deliberately left open).
Therefore, in most cases, interior finishing will be required. Most experts do not recommend covering walls made of shell rock with plasterboard: drilling of blocks will be required to secure the profiles, and due to the heterogeneity of the structure, it is impossible to guarantee their durability.
Plaster is ideal for finishing “shell” walls. Moreover, it is not necessary to pre-fix the reinforcing metal mesh - shell rock, due to the same porous structure, has high adhesion, that is, the strength of adhesion to other materials.
True, when carrying out work, it is advisable to first carry out the so-called “spraying” - apply a leveling rough layer of mortar. On top of it, a final finishing is done using cement-sand or gypsum plaster (the latter is only for dry rooms; it is not suitable for bathroom walls).
Shell rock also needs external finishing - it is not worth leaving it untreated, since atmospheric exposure can negatively affect its durability. Applying vapor-permeable plaster to the outside of the facade will protect the stone, and at the same time close the pores of the material and prevent drafts from appearing in the house.
Hello, Sergey!
It's nice to see the question asked so specifically :-). I answer:
1. clinker hollow brick (125mm) - min. wool (50mm) - shell (380mm) then gypsum and in places where high humidity sand plaster. Everything is in order, both in terms of warmth and in the sequence of layers.
2. face solid brick (cheaper than clinker) - air gap (I don’t know how many cm, please calculate) - then the same thing. With this option it’s worse. Look, the air gap provides very little heat. It is not airtight, so it has little effect on thermal characteristics walls. In numbers, it looks like this: in total, for your region, the wall should provide a heat transfer resistance of 2.8 (no less), and an air layer 100 mm thick can provide only 0.16 of these 2.8. And if you make the layer larger, for example 200mm, then 0.16 remains unchanged (there is no point in making it larger, there is no point anyway :-)). And such a wall, with a 100mm layer, lacks another 50mm of wool for insulation.
3. I would offer you a “mixed option”. If you don't care appearance If you are satisfied with the front solid brick, then you can make the wall like this: this brick, 50mm cotton wool, and 380mm shell. The thickness of the wool does not change depending on the type of brick on the outside (clinker or regular). I will explain why the thickness of the wool does not change. It (cotton wool) is usually sold in 50mm and 100mm sizes. There is no cotton wool 45, 38, etc. Therefore, when calculating with clinker wool, 45 mm is needed, when calculating with conventional clinker, 48 mm, this is still a position of 50 mm.
4. By how much wool lives in such a wall. It is very important here what kind of cotton wool. For such a design, you need to take a density of 50-65 kg/m3. Less dense wool may sag. European wool manufacturers have research results from special “aging chambers,” and these studies indicate that in such a wall, wool of the required density “lives” as long as “the building itself lives.” From my own experience I can say this. 10 years have passed since the completion of the construction of a residential complex, 16 floors, also the first climate zone, like yours, there was mineral wool in the wall with a density of 50 kg/m3. Feedback from people now (they installed new windows, the wall was visible in section) - no changes in the wool. In terms of living comfort, everything is fine, warm. And many such houses were built, if something happened with the cotton wool, then it would definitely be “heard of” :-). The main question here is the density of the wool (don’t skimp on it), because I can’t vouch for positions of 35 kg/m3. And 50-65 is quite normal.
5. On my own :-). I live in the first climatic zone, so the wall should also provide the same 2.8 as yours. I want a wall without insulation, if possible. Most likely it is a gas block (300 mm) + facing brick, such a wall is just enough for the first climate zone.