Why are the leaves of tomato seedlings drooping? Why do tomato seedlings wither and fall?

7 rules, following which you can get excellent seedlings and a large harvest of tomatoes.

Any plant cannot live without heat, sun, water and soil. Tomatoes are no exception; for normal growth they need:

Quality seeds
Fertile soil
Sufficient light
Moderate watering
Optimal ground and air temperatures
Protection from diseases and pests
Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers

If you have fulfilled all the necessary conditions, then the plants will delight you with their powerful appearance and rich harvest. If you made a mistake on at least one of the points, they will upset you with frail shoots and a meager harvest, if any at all.

What to do if the tomato seedlings have become very elongated, thin and long?

After the seedlings have appeared and pleased their owners, the most important stage in plant development begins. At this stage, plants must receive temperatures of the ground and air that are acceptable for growth, as well as sufficient light and moisture. What happens if optimal conditions are violated?

If the soil in the seedling pots is too cold, and the air temperature is either too low or too high, the plants will not be able to fully develop.

They will also not be able to develop normally if they receive too little light. If the seedlings are stretched out due to lack of light, you can save them by giving them enough light.

Why are tomato seedlings purple and growing poorly?

Why in a relatively warm house, if you grow seedlings on the windowsills, does the ground remain cold? Because often and thickly, the cold that comes from the windows excessively cools the pots with seedlings. To experiment, place a room thermometer on the windowsill or on the soil of your greenhouse if you are growing seedlings under film, and measure the temperature. The optimal soil temperature is from 16 to 18 degrees. If the ground is cold, the plants will not grow well and the color of the seedlings may turn purple.

Why do the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow: what to do?

The air temperature for seedlings should be from 25 to 28 degrees. Plants will be stunted if temperatures are above or below these levels. Separately, I would like to say about the illumination of plants.

If there is catastrophically little light, the seedlings can stretch out in just a few days. It will have a yellow color and thin elongated stems. You can expect a good harvest from such seedlings only if you can give the plants enough light.

Why do tomato seedlings wither and fall?

Unfortunately, on a windowsill without additional lighting, even if the windows face the sunny side, the plants will not be able to receive enough light. The only way out in this situation is to use artificial lighting. These can be special lamps that are used in industrial greenhouses and which are expensive or inexpensive fluorescent lamps.

The same failure may await those gardeners who sowed seeds in greenhouses with film cover. Because in early spring there is not enough sunlight, which can be lost when passing through a dense film.

Mold on the ground in tomato seedlings: what to do?

When watering seedlings, it is better not to add water than to give it in excess. It happens that gardeners are so keen on caring for their plants that they begin to water them every day or even several times a day. They water it because they noticed the top layer of soil in the pots drying out, while inside there is an excess of moisture.

Black leg in tomato seedlings: control measures

Excessive watering leads to suppression of plants, creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal diseases of the root system and ultimately the death of seedlings. How to determine that plants need watering?

The easiest way to deal with this situation is to not water the plants until you notice some wilting due to lack of moisture. In this case, the leaves are less elastic and slightly drooping. Plants need to be watered with warm water. If you use chlorinated tap water, remove the chlorine from the water.

To do this, just collect water in a bucket and let it stand for 2-3 days. Chlorine is a gas and is lighter than water, so it will completely leave the liquid during this time.

Feed the seedlings with mineral fertilizers. This should be done no more than once a week with complex fertilizers. You need to be careful when using fertilizers like saltpeter. Due to the high nitrogen content in the soil, plants can become very elongated.

Treatment of tomato seedlings against diseases

Avoid infecting seedlings with pests and diseases. Since disease infection in a greenhouse or when growing seedlings on windowsills occurs mainly due to contaminated soil, use only healthy soil for this purpose. If you take it from your garden, then take it from beds where tomatoes and related crops, say potatoes, did not grow.

Phytophthora on tomato seedlings: combating it

Late blight is considered a disease of open ground and rainy and cool weather is favorable for its development. For plants to become ill with late blight, they must be exposed to unfavorable weather conditions for 3-7 days.

If the tomato seedlings are under cover or in the house, the likelihood that they will get late blight is very low. To prevent the disease, you need to prevent water from getting on the leaves of plants and water only the ground. If brown spots still appear on the leaves, treat them with fungicides against late blight.

White spots on the leaves of tomato seedlings: what to do?

White spots on the leaves of seedlings may be the result of burns from the sun or lamps used to illuminate the plants. So, if seedlings that are not accustomed to sunlight are transferred to beds or exposed to pots in the sun, the plants will not be able to cope with the resulting load and will get burned.

Preventive measures against burns can include gradual adaptation of plants to the new light regime. If burns have already occurred, the affected leaves can be torn off. The plant will gradually return to normal and produce new leaves.

The leaves of tomato seedlings curl, wither and dry out: what to do?

If the leaves of seedlings curl, this can be either the result of disease or the result of plant oppression by pests. What to do if the plants are sick and you can’t tell by their appearance what’s happening to them?

The only way out in such a situation is to try to correct errors with temperature conditions, plant lighting, watering and treat them with fungicides against diseases and pest control.

Whitefly - white midges on tomato seedlings: how to fight?

Maybe someone will be surprised that plants located on a windowsill or under a film cover can have pests.

Unfortunately, they exist if the land infected with these pests was used. In particular, whitefly and its larvae can cause enormous damage to tomatoes, which in a matter of days can turn a green plant into a stunted and weak one. They will help to cope with the problem of spraying leaves with products against this pest.

Aphids on tomato seedlings: how to fight?

Aphids may appear on tomato seedlings if soil contaminated with this pest was used. You can fight aphids by spraying plants with anti-aphid chemicals. Such as tanrek, confidor, spark bio and others.

Unfortunately, it happens that all efforts to improve the health of the plant are in vain. This can happen if improper care of the plant, disease or pest oppression of the plant has been too long. The only way out of this situation may be to replant the seedlings.

How to choose tomato seeds?

Sow only proven, high-quality seeds. If you buy seeds in stores, use only trusted retail outlets. Because counterfeits in the seed market have reached catastrophic proportions due to the fact that it has simply become unprofitable to trade in high-quality seeds.

Quality seeds are half the success in growing tomatoes

If you collect seeds from your tomatoes, choose for this purpose only healthy and powerful bushes that have produced a good harvest. Sometimes seed disinfection is required. Because they can be infected with pathogenic viruses. Disinfection, if done correctly, does not affect the quality of the seeds, but may reduce germination. Therefore, you will have to increase the number of seeds sown.

In what soil do tomatoes grow best?

Sow the seeds in soil ideal for this crop. The soil for seedlings should not be too light and not too heavy. It must be said right away that the soil taken from the garden bed will be heavy if your garden is located on black soil. And soil purchased in stores called “for seedlings” will be too light due to the high content of peat in such soil. Therefore, the ideal option would be: thoroughly mix 50% of the soil from the garden bed and 50% of the soil for seedlings and fill the seedling cups or trays with this soil.

You will need to think in advance that excess water after watering the plants will need to flow freely from the cups. This means that they must have a sufficient number of holes at the bottom to drain excess water.

All these wisdom are easy to remember and use when growing tomato seedlings. And most importantly, if you still fail in growing seedlings, do not give up, but roll up your sleeves and correct your mistakes, grow new beautiful, healthy and powerful seedlings.

VIDEO: How to grow healthy seedlings?

Causes of wilting and poor growth of tomato seedlings. Methods of resuscitation. Preparations and recipes for feeding after picking.

Beginners and experienced gardeners are faced with a lot of nuances when growing seedlings at home. In addition to sowing, watering, care and feeding, each plant requires the attention and caring hands of a person.

During the period of intensive growth in open ground, tomatoes are resistant to changes in day and night temperatures and sunlight intensity. They are grateful for feeding and tying up the stems. However, from the moment of sowing tomato seeds to transplanting them into open ground, the gardener can expect weeks of caring for the young plants.

We are talking not only about picking, but also about treating diseases, organizing proper watering, temperature conditions, and light intensity. The main tasks are to preserve the seedlings, prevent them from withering, slowing growth and development. Let's talk more about this in the article.

Why tomato seedlings die, disappear, do not grow, or grow poorly after picking: reasons

a man transplants tomato seedlings into another container

There are several reasons for the death and poor growth of tomato seedlings:

Errors during transplantation, when the root is incorrectly located in the hole or damaged; the ground is not covered tightly enough. In the latter case, the presence of air bubbles prevents the development of the plant's root system.
Lighting. Direct sunlight often causes burns on seedlings, which negatively affects their health and growth.
Diseases, for example, blackleg. It develops due to watering the tomato with cold water. Or a fungus in the soil that penetrates the stem and forms blood clots. They prevent the movement of juice with beneficial substances to the leaves.
Pests, such as spider mites. The lesions are not noticeable at an early stage, but when the colony grows, it is difficult to save the plant.
Irrigation errors and drainage problems. Stagnation of water causes rotting of the roots of seedlings, and watering with cold liquid causes the development of a disease, the so-called blackleg.
Poor quality soil with low mineral content. For example, a lack of iron causes yellowing and dying of leaves, as well as a significant slowdown in seedling growth. Low nitrogen content is indicated by excessively thin stems and limp leaves.
High indoor temperatures have an extremely negative effect on the overall health of tomatoes. If an excessive moisture level is added to it, the formation of putrefactive processes in the soil is expected. As a result, the root system and the entire plant will suffer.

What to do if tomato seedlings fall, wither, do not grow or grow poorly after picking: a set of measures

young tomato seedlings in a box on the windowsill

If the cause is a soil fungus, treat it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Then apply potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Pay attention to the temperature and humidity in the room where the seedlings are located. They must not exceed acceptable values.
An adult plant affected by blackleg can be saved by pouring soil under the root. This way, new roots are formed and the tomatoes will soon rise again and begin to grow.
Compensate for the lack of lighting with red and blue lamps. The duration of their exposure is at least 10 hours a day. But leave time for the dark part of the day without lighting the tomatoes. So blue light affects the development of the plant, its ability to flower, and red light stimulates the formation of a strong trunk.
Feed your seedlings with a growth stimulator by preparing an aqueous solution. Sometimes the soil lacks nutrients, as evidenced by the wilting of the plant and the falling of its leaves.

Caring for tomatoes, tomatoes after picking: description, tips

tomato seedlings after picking on the windowsill

Care is based on 3 points:

lighting
air temperature
watering

When you have done the first picking of tomatoes, place them in a cool room, for example, on a loggia or glassed-in balcony so that there is a shadow over them. The optimum air temperature during the day is +16℃, at night +13℃. Avoiding contact with direct sunlight will keep the seedlings healthy.

Please note that when the temperature drops to +10℃, your tomatoes will stop growing.
A week after picking, water the seedlings and tear off the bottom pair of leaves so that the trunk does not grow too tall.
When the plants get stronger, provide them with access to sunlight. They will be able to tolerate baths lasting 10-12 hours well.
Remember that good drainage is the key to the health of the root system and the plant as a whole. Therefore, be sure to organize an exit for excess moisture through holes at the bottom of the container.
Avoid placing tomatoes on the windowsill above hot radiators. It’s better to place them on the table at least a meter away from the heat source. Seedlings must be hardened off before planting in open ground.
Water deeply and rarely. Use water that has settled and reached room temperature. The signal for watering is completely dry soil in the pots.
A couple of weeks before planting in open ground, begin hardening off the tomatoes. Place them near an open vent/window for a couple of hours a day.

How often to water and what to water tomatoes with after picking?

watering young tomato seedlings at the root using a small watering can

The frequency of watering tomato seedlings varies depending on the age of the plants. When the seeds have sprouted in all holes, carefully water the soil around the shoot, avoiding getting water on it. A douching bulb will help you.
Before the first picking, when 3 true leaves have grown, moisten the soil under the tomatoes 3 days in advance.
After the first pick, water it after 5-7 days, the second - 10.
Next, monitor the soil. When it becomes dry, water the seedlings generously with water at room temperature that has settled. Once every 7-10 days may be quite enough.
Plan to moisten the soil several days before picking. Then you will minimize the likelihood of root damage.
Use complex mineral fertilizers as an additive to water for watering tomato seedlings once a month.

What fertilizer or folk remedy to feed tomato seedlings after picking: recipes, tips

liquid complex fertilizers are added to the watering can for watering tomato seedlings for feeding

The process of feeding seedlings is mandatory for tomatoes. This way you activate its forces for harmonious development and healthy growth.

Aqueous solutions are suitable from folk remedies:

chicken manure
wood ash
urea
yeast
nettle
mullein

Let's add several recipes for fertilizers using folk remedies.

Recipe 1 from nettles

a bucket of green fertilizer made from nettles for feeding tomato seedlings

Fill an enamel container with finely chopped nettles and fill with water.
Stir the future fertilizer daily for 2 weeks to allow excess oxygen to evaporate until its color changes to light.
To neutralize the unpleasant odor, add a few drops of valerian to the container with nettles.
Prepare a solution for irrigation at the rate of 1 part to 20 parts water. Distribute the liquid around the trunk under the root.

Recipe 2 with ash

tied tomato stems and a glass of liquid ash fertilizer to feed them

Dissolve a glass of ash in 3 liters of water and bring the mixture to a boil.
Leave to infuse for half a day.
Add clean water to a volume of 10 liters and rub in a little laundry soap.
Use fertilizer to spray the grown seedlings.

Recipe 3 with mullein

a bucket of ready-made mullein fertilizer for feeding tomatoes

Fill the container halfway with mullein and fill it to the brim with warm water.
Cover with a lid and leave to steep for 7 days.
Stir the fertilizer and dilute it with ordinary clean water in a ratio of 1:15.
Pour 0.5 liters of liquid under each bush.

Among complex means of industrial production, gardeners give preference to:

nitrophoske
mineral mono preparations - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium
ammophosphate
"Ideal"
"I'm strong"

So, we looked at the features of caring for tomato seedlings, identified the causes of their diseases, and learned how to prepare fertilizers at home.

Remember that hard work, attentiveness and care from human hands are often the key to an abundant tomato harvest in the future.

Video: Caring for tomato seedlings

When difficulties arise with growing tomato seedlings - they wither or even fall - it is important to understand why this happens. If you take immediate action, the plants can be cured.

The first step is to understand why the stems began to wither.

The most common and easily eliminated reason for the wilting of the first tomato sprouts is dense plantings. If the seeds are planted densely, the sprouts quickly become crowded, they begin to intensely reach for the light, take food from each other and destroy their neighbors.

Everything is simple with this - you need to initially plant tomatoes no thicker than every 3-5 cm, and thin them out in time. If the tomatoes begin to wilt, you need to remove the excess seedlings and lightly sprinkle the remaining ones with earth so that they straighten.

Care errors

There are two main reasons why tomato seedlings wither - diseases and errors in care. Dealing with the second reason is much easier.

Unbalanced soil

Tomatoes do not grow in every soil. They do not like heavy, acidic, nutrient-poor soil.

If the soil is not suitable, then the seedlings develop poorly and wither: the color of the greenery turns pale, the stems and roots weaken. In this case, it urgently needs to be transplanted into loose, fertile soil.

Tomatoes will grow best in the following soil mixture:

garden soil - 1 kg;
humus - 1 kg;
leaf soil - 1 kg;
peat - 2 kg;
sand - 0.5 kg.

Nutrients are added to the prepared soil: superphosphate, urea, potash fertilizers.

In order for tomatoes to form a strong root system, the soil for seedlings must be saturated with air, retain moisture well, and its acidity must not exceed 7 pH.

Incorrect lighting

The leaves of tomato seedlings may lose color and wilt due to short daylight hours. For the same reason, the sprouts become very elongated.

The fact is that plants take nutrients not only from the soil, but also from the air. This is photosynthesis, thanks to which organic substances are formed in greenery, which determine 95% of the quantity and taste of the future harvest.

Only sprouts that have hatched require round-the-clock lighting. It is convenient to use a phytolamp. Seedlings that are gaining strength need bright light 12 hours a day. At this age, seedlings no longer need night lighting; on the contrary, in the dark they better absorb nutrients from the soil.

Tomatoes are afraid of direct rays of the sun, from which the tender leaves can not only wither, but even burn, so containers with plantings should not be placed on very hot windowsills.

Improper watering

Tomatoes require moisture in moderation. They do not tolerate both its absence and overflow.

Be sure to make sure that the holes in the container with tomato seedlings are large enough. It is unacceptable for water to stagnate in a pot due to clogged holes in the bottom of the container or lack of a drainage layer.

Due to excess fluid:

growth stops;
leaves wither and curl;
the roots rot;
the stems weaken;
cotyledon leaves fall off.

Containers containing sprouts begin to smell musty.

In this case, immediately remove excess moisture (with a pear, sponge, porous paper), stop watering for a while, and then reduce the amount of liquid.

In some cases, it may be necessary to transplant the tomatoes to another location.

If there is a lack of moisture:

the roots dry out;
leaves “hang” and then lose color;
the stems become pale and thin;
the seedlings wither.

The soil in containers becomes loose or, conversely, shrinks into a hard lump.

Under no circumstances should you immediately flood the soil with a large amount of liquid. Water little by little in several steps, repeating the action after about 2 hours, until the soil moisture level in the pots becomes normal.

Tomatoes require regular watering. If such situations are repeated, the seedlings will eventually not find the strength to recover and will completely wither.

You only need to water with water that has been standing for 2-4 days, always warm. From the cold liquid, the roots of the tomatoes will begin to die, and the plants will no longer be saved.

The soil in boxes with tomato seedlings can be mulched with sand or other bulk composition, which retains moisture inside the pot and at the same time does not allow a hard crust to form on the surface of the soil.

It is extremely important to constantly loosen the soil so that oxygen comes in and excess water leaves.

The temperature regime is violated

Tomato seedlings can stretch out and wither due to non-compliance with the temperature regime.
For tomatoes, night temperature is perhaps the most decisive factor in proper development. Ideally, it should be from +16 C to +24 C. This applies not only to seedlings, but also to adult plants, especially at the moment when the ovaries are formed.

Daytime temperatures above +30 C are also detrimental for tomato seedlings.

Photosynthesis is impossible without fresh air, so it is important to ensure a constant flow of oxygen. It should be borne in mind that young tomato sprouts also cannot tolerate drafts. Therefore, boxes with seedlings are never placed directly under the window.

Errors when feeding

If everything is fine with lighting, watering, temperature, the boxes are in the right place, but the seedlings do not look healthy and strong - they wither and fall, then we can assume that there are problems with nutrients.

The gardener needs to be attentive to the appearance of the seedlings: it is he who will tell you what is wrong with the feeding.


The leaves become smaller; turn yellow entirely, along with the veins	Nitrogen deficiency	Apply liquid nitrogen fertilizer. Transplant into a larger pot
Yellowing of leaves; a light border along their edge; blackening and drying of foliage, starting from the tip	Potassium deficiency	Feeding with ash, potassium phosphate
Leaves are reddish, blue-violet, purple	Phosphorus deficiency	Foliar feeding with potassium monophosphate
Yellowing of leaves to white with green veins	Chlorosis (lack of iron)	Watering with 1% solution of iron sulfate

Root fertilizers are applied so that drops do not fall on the leaves and stems. All fertilizers are used according to the instructions, since violations of the concentration of solutions cause burns and death of roots.

And they should not be allowed to accumulate on the surface of the soil, where they can form a hard crust that prevents air from penetrating into the deeper layers.

If, after watering with fertilizers, a whitish film appears in the pots, it can be removed with sodium or potassium humates (easily soluble salts of humic acids). For 10 liters of water only 3 g of concentrate is required. Humates are good natural fertilizers; they improve both the soil and the quality of the future harvest.

Why do seedlings wither after picking?

Tomato sprouts may look lethargic for some time after transplanting. This is normal if it lasts no more than 2-3 days. Seedlings also experience stress, which is stronger the more the roots are damaged during the dive.

To prevent the stems from wilting, when replanting it is better not to touch them at all, but to hold the seedlings by a lump of earth around the roots. As a last resort, tomatoes can be carefully picked up by the leaves.

And if the roots are poorly straightened, they can bunch up into a dense lump, which will not allow the tomatoes to receive nutrition and oxygen from the soil.

In severe cases, the roots begin to die. This is easy to notice by a weakening, withering, falling seedling. In such circumstances, it is not always possible to save seedlings. But urgent treatment of the plantings with a weak solution of Epin on the leaves and watering the soil with humates will help.

Rules for picking tomatoes:

need to be replanted after 2–3 true leaves appear;
It is better not to pinch the root;
if there is an emergency, you can remove no more than 1/3 of the longest root;
Before and after picking, the seedlings are not watered for 2 days;
The soil in new pots should be moist and nutritious.

Tomatoes can wither if they are transplanted early, up to 10 days: at this time the root is still so weak that it requires too much effort to recover. If you replant after 14 days, the roots in the common box will have time to become so intertwined that it will be impossible to separate them without damage, and this will also provoke wilting.

Diseases of tomato seedlings

Pests always overwinter in the soil, so before planting tomato seeds, the soil, even purchased in a store, is treated:

spill with a strong solution of potassium permanganate;
calcined in the oven;
freeze.

Diseases for tomatoes are more dangerous than improper care. It is important to correctly determine the cause of seedling wilting - to make a diagnosis.

	Cause	Disease
The seedlings wither from below; falls; the vessels of the lower part of the stem become dark brown	Fungus-infected soil	Fusarium	If the roots wither, the sprouts are thrown away. If the roots are alive, you need to replant them in healthy soil and disinfected dishes.
Brown spots on leaves that darken greatly over time	High air or soil humidity	Brown spot	Sick plants are removed. The ground is disinfected with potassium permanganate and sprinkled with ash and sand. Treatment with Bordeaux mixture
The sprout darkens at the base; blackness spreads upward; the neck of the root rots; sprout falls	Stagnation of water on the ground surface. Overwatering. Infection from neighboring plants	Blackleg	Spill the soil in advance with solutions of potassium permanganate or sulfur; mulch its surface. Withered sprouts are thrown away
Gray spots and black dots appear on the lower leaves; leaves dry; the plant withers	Contaminated soil	Septoria	Sick plants are removed, healthy ones are treated with Bordeaux mixture, and sometimes transplanted into another container. At an early stage, the ground can be treated with potassium permanganate

Tomato seedlings may grow slowly, darken and wither due to increased soil acidity. In this case, watering with a sulfur solution (25 g per 5 liters of water) helps.

Sometimes seedlings wither due to indoor flowers if they are infected with diseases or pests. Therefore, house plants are taken to another room while growing tomato seedlings, and the places where they are kept are treated with insecticides in advance.

If measures are taken in time, tomato plantings can be protected from withering. In any case, when the first problems arise, you should not give up: most of them are quite easily solved.

The new summer season is just around the corner, and again sowing seeds for seedlings! However, seedlings of vegetable crops or flower plants cannot always please us. There are sorrows and disappointments. To avoid this, let's remember our mistakes last year and try to do everything right from the very beginning. Moreover, this knowledge will be useful to us not only when growing seedlings of vegetable crops, for example, tomatoes, peppers, strawberries, cabbage or cucumbers, but also when planting plants in the ground, as well as when caring for indoor plants: after all, the plants have the same requirements.

1. What primer should I use?

Garden soil contains pathogens and pests, which can infect seedlings. Before use, the soil must be frozen or calcined in the oven, and sprinkled with potassium permanganate. I do not recommend using only one garden soil. It may be too heavy for germination. Add peat, leaf soil, humus and sand to it.

There may also be problems when using purchased soil. Some unscrupulous soil manufacturers use herbicides to prevent weeds from growing. These herbicides may prevent seeds from germinating at all or inhibit plants that have already sprouted. You may also choose the wrong soil: it may have an alkaline pH soil reaction, or, conversely, it may be too acidic for the plants you planted. It’s up to you to decide which earthen mixture to use!

2. The seeds do not germinate or germinate very rarely.

— Seeds may be to blame for this if they have expiration date has expired, and there is no germination at all, or they germinate very rarely. Be patient and have new fresh seeds, you will have to replant.

— For seed germination special conditions required: scarification (filing the seed coat), stratification (exposing the seeds to cold). Before planting the seeds, carefully read on the bag what conditions need to be created for the seeds to germinate: the seeds must be on the surface or germinate in greenhouse conditions, the seeds of some plants germinate only in the light or only in the dark.

3. The seeds sprouted very well, but after a while the small seedlings begin to disappear one by one.

— Seedlings suffer from drought. Especially if you often use spraying of seedlings instead of watering. With small, frequent watering, the bottom layer of soil also dries out, and the delicate roots of plants begin to suffocate. When sprayed, the top layer of soil becomes uniformly black and the entire soil appears to be damp. This may mislead you into thinking that watering is not required. The soil should be evenly moist both outside and inside. It is better to water rarely but abundantly than often and little by little. With proper watering, the soil ball where the roots develop should remain moist. If several seedlings have fallen, they can be selectively removed from the total mass of seedlings. In a situation where all the seedlings have fallen, it is better to quickly transplant the remaining plants into new soil, having previously treated it with potassium permanganate. Automatic plant watering systems will help you cope with watering.

— The seedlings were flooded, and its roots simply suffocated from excess water and lack of oxygen. Check to see if the drain hole is clogged and preventing water from draining out. Clean it. Use a drainage layer to drain excess water. If there is no drainage hole, then the remaining plants need to be transplanted into fresh soil.

— Overwatering of seedlings at low soil or ambient temperatures can lead to root rot disease. The remaining seedlings urgently need transplanting into fresh soil. Before transplanting, wash the roots in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin.

— The soil is not suitable for seedlings: we bought it with an alkaline or acidic pH reaction of the soil.

— There's a pest. Possibly woodlice or earwigs. Spider mites can cause harm. Treat the seedlings with karbofos, fitoverm or actellik.

4. The seedlings have become very elongated

— The seedlings don't have enough light. For seed germination, many plants do not need light, and as soon as a green loop of a seedling appears at the surface of the earth, light, and especially sunlight, becomes one of the most necessary growth factors. With a lack of lighting, seedlings become very elongated, and stunted, frail plants can get sick and die at any time.

— High room temperature. Some seeds need greenhouse conditions to germinate, but seedlings no longer need such conditions. If the temperature in the room where the seedlings are located is not reduced (especially if there is insufficient light), then the seedlings will become very stretched and fall. Therefore, after the emergence of seedlings, within 3-4 days, you need to lower the temperature and try to illuminate the seedlings around the clock.

— Early sowing of seeds. At the end of January - February, when daylight is still short, there are not enough sunny days, there is not enough additional lighting, the seedlings stretch out. You have to do a lot of babysitting with such seedlings, and I think that the game is not worth the candle. Seedlings planted in March with sufficient daylight will catch up and outstrip the February seedlings.

— The box with seedlings is located far from the window or the glass is dirty.

— Very dense shoots. Due to lack of light, seedlings stretch out and shade each other. When sowing seeds, spread them evenly over the surface of the soil, and do not sow them in heaps.

— Delay in picking seedlings and arranging them. If you are late with picking or transplanting seedlings, then the plants located closer to the window glass grow faster, require more space, and shade the plants on the other side of the box. To ensure plants grow evenly, rotate the seedling box so that all plants receive light. As soon as the plants begin to stretch out and shade each other, they need to be transplanted into other containers, or the seedlings should be planted in a greenhouse or open ground.

— Excess nitrogen fertilizers. The soil is oversaturated with humus or frequent fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers. With frequent watering, high room temperature and excess nitrogen, seedlings grow greatly. It is necessary to lower the temperature, stop fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, and reduce watering.

5. Picked plants do not grow for a long time

— Some plants are better not to dive, but plant immediately in separate cups or peat tablets, and in the future use not transplantation, but transfer to a larger container. For example, peppers get sick for a long time after picking or transplanting; and cucumbers have a very fragile root system; they are grown without picking at all.

— The reason for the growth retardation may be the quality of the work performed when picking seedlings: perhaps the roots bent and ended up on the surface.

— The roots are poorly pressed— air cavities remained next to them. Particular attention should be paid to this when transplanting plants into open ground. After the plant is transplanted to a new location, carefully compact the soil around it with your fingers, and then water the transplanted plants generously. You can use transplanting “into the mud”: pour a lot of water into the prepared hole so that the soil turns into mud, and lower the root of the plant into it, gradually filling the hole with dry soil.

- During the transplant there were the roots of the seedlings are severely damaged or torn off. Before transplanting the seedlings, water them well so that the earthen ball softens. Then there is a greater chance of not damaging the roots of the plants.

6. Seedlings have stopped growing

— Often the reason for stunted growth lies in a lack or excess of nutrition, pests, lack or excess of moisture, and as a consequence of the onset of a disease: root rot, basal rot.

— Suberization of root tissues. In some cases, treating the soil with Maxim, Fitosporin, or Baikal-Em1 will help.

— Use of high-moor peat as an earthen mixture. Some sellers may say that this is ready-made soil and you can safely grow seedlings in it. High-moor peat is only suitable as a component of an earthen mixture. If you do not transplant seedlings from such soil in time, you can observe the following picture: the seedlings begin to grow together, but later the peat dries out, water does not stay in such soil at all, the seedlings suffocate and die. Place this dried lump in water and let the soil soak. Then transplant the seedlings into a new soil mixture.

7. The leaves of the seedlings became hard, changed color, spots appeared on the leaves, the growing point died

— Excess fertilizer. The prepared soil already contains the fertilizers necessary for seed germination; you need to be very careful when applying fertilizers. Seedlings may become poisoned. If such a situation arises, washing the soil with a large amount of water will help, provided that the water should drain freely. Or replanting into new soil.

— In the soil mixture as one of the components sea sand was used, the salts of which caused poisoning of the roots. In this case, you should change the soil and replant the remaining plants and wash the roots.

- Lack of moisture.

8. Change in the appearance of seedlings: lethargic, faded, turns yellow, red or blue

— With a lack of nitrogen, plants look stunted: the stem is thin, the leaves are small, pale green, and the bottom begins to turn yellow and die. And vice versa, with an excess of nitrogen, plants become fattened: the stem and petioles are thick, the leaves are large, dark green; But you won’t get color from such plants for long.

— With a lack of phosphorus a reddish-purple tint appears on the leaves of plants (most often on the underside).

— Potassium deficiency On plants, yellowing of the ends and edges of old (lower) leaves is observed. In tomato seedlings, the leaves may curl downwards.

— A lack of iron in plants manifests itself in the form of chlorosis on the leaves - the leaf tissue between the veins begins to discolor; the leaves gradually turn yellow.

— For magnesium deficiency leaf marbling is observed.

— With boron deficiency the growing point dies.

— If there is a cat in the house, then she can make her contribution: from her urine that gets into the soil, the seedlings change color (turn blue) and die. In addition, she can completely drop the box of seedlings. Plant some greenery for your pussy, she will thank you :)

And you can fill in the missing elements using

As soon as spring comes, many summer residents immediately go to their plots and begin to actively plant, water and fertilize various crops. All the warm months pass in such worries. And it is very disappointing if, instead of a rich harvest, a gardener receives vegetables, fruits and berries that have perished for one reason or another. Sometimes problems arise even before the crop is planted in the soil. This happens very often with tomatoes. Why the seedlings of these vegetables fall and how to cope with the problem under discussion is described below.

Reasons for the fall of tomato seedlings and ways to eliminate them

Modern experienced gardeners have managed to divide all the known causes of this problem into two main groups. This is improper care and illness.

Improper care

Every owner of a summer cottage should know the basic rules for caring for tomato seedlings. They will protect the future harvest from destruction.

All these simple rules will help not only prevent seedlings from falling, but also combat an existing problem.

Diseases

Errors in care are quite easy to eliminate, but dealing with diseases of seedlings is usually much more difficult. The reason for their occurrence may be, for example, poor quality soil or pests. This is why it is so important to pre-prepare all materials for planting, including disinfecting and disinfecting the seedling soil (this can be done by calcining it in the oven or treating it with a solution of potassium permanganate). The most dangerous diseases for tomato seedlings are Fusarium and Blackleg.

Fusarium is a dangerous fungal disease that quite often affects tomato seedlings. The main reason for the problem is contaminated soil. Sometimes this is also the case with materials purchased in specialized stores. If, even with active, proper watering, the seedlings fall and their leaves look lethargic, then you must perform the following steps:

remove the roots of the plant from the soil and carefully examine them. In the lower part of the stem on diseased seedlings, the vessels become dark brown. Infected seedlings with wilted roots and leaves will have to be thrown away;
if the problem is noticed at the very beginning, then It will be enough to transplant the tomato seedlings into new healthy soil;
It is also very important to disinfect the box or any other container in which it will be planted.

If you do not pay attention to stagnation of water in the container for a long time and excessive watering of tomato seedlings, this can lead to the appearance of such a dangerous disease as “Black Leg”. It is very easy to detect - the seedling will quickly begin to darken and wither along the entire trunk, starting from the bottom. At the first stage, the roots look completely healthy, and then they also begin to rot and change color. To protect your seedlings from the disease under discussion, Before planting, you should very thoroughly water the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate..

If you notice that tomato seedlings are falling, then it is extremely important to start combating the problem in time. In this case, it will be possible to save the seedlings and in the future get the desired rich harvest.

ogorod.guru

Why do tomato seedlings turn yellow?

Tomatoes are our housewives’ favorite plant. They put their whole soul into them and take care of the young seedlings as well as children. And housewives are very worried when their seedlings begin to get sick and wither. Why tomato seedlings turn yellow and wither and what to do about it - read below.

A little science

All plants contain a substance called chlorophyll, which is an important component. Thanks to chlorophyll, the connection between the sun, the environment and the plant itself is maintained. Chlorophyll filters the necessary organic substances from water and air with the help of sunlight. If this process does not occur, then you can hear about a disease such as chlorosis, as a result of which the leaves of tomato seedlings turn yellow.

Causes of yellowing seedlings

In this paragraph, we will consider the most common causes of yellowing, to identify which you need to carefully examine your seedlings.

If tomato seedlings turn yellow, starting from the lowest leaves, and bright veins of blue or red colors are observed, then a lack of nitrogen can be assumed, which is one of the most important elements for tomatoes. In this case, the phenomenon of small leaves is also often observed. In this case, liquid nitrogen fertilizers will help, which will correct the situation as soon as possible.
Another popular cause of yellowing can be a lack of potassium, which you will have to combat with the help of fertilizers.
This reason is also a lack of nutrients, which include zinc. Its deficiency is manifested not only by yellow leaves, but also by specks, as well as by upward curling of the leaves. Fertilizers will come to the rescue again.
If the yellow color of the leaves gradually turns into yellow-white, then you need to think about a lack of iron. Fortunately, this illness goes away literally within a day, provided, of course, that you choose the right fertilizer.
Malnutrition of the root system of tomatoes also very often leads to yellowing. Such disturbances usually occur due to damage to the roots, which are very sensitive to physical impact, as well as changes in temperature. Most often this happens when transplanting tomatoes into open ground. Don’t worry, after some time tomatoes cope with chlorosis caused by these factors on their own.
A trivial reason, but it can provoke yellowing of all seedlings - lack of soil in the pot. If this happens to your tomatoes, then try to move them to a larger container as quickly as possible.
When transplanting tomatoes incorrectly, sometimes you end up with clumps of roots, which also prevent the seedlings from fully developing, because through such jungle the flow of water and substances is very difficult.
Poor lighting is another reason for yellowing leaves. Try to extend daylight hours for your pets by using backlighting for about 4-6 hours.

All the described reasons relate to diseases that develop over more than one day. Saving seedlings in such cases is quite simple, and now you know how to do it. But what happened if the seedlings turned yellow and began to wither in one day? Let's talk and

Sharp yellowing of seedlings

The yellowing of healthy green seedlings just yesterday may indicate stress that occurs in tomatoes when the roots die. Unfortunately, it is not possible to save such bushes. The only thing you can do is to play it safe and protect your seedlings from this. To do this, treat the bushes in which you clearly notice signs of any incipient disease with Epin and then with a good fertilizer that contains the entire complex of minerals. Just make the solution weak - this is the main rule.

womanadvice.ru

Tomato seedlings wither. Please explain how to save it? Tomatoes, seedlings

Lera Lastochka

Where are the seedlings located? Is it in a hot greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill? Or in a bright but cool place? It is difficult to answer at random why seedlings wither without knowing the conditions under which they grow. The first thought is that she is very hot on top and very dry on her roots below.

Elena Smirnova

Photo would be nice. Take a photo and post it in the World, and give a link here. Otherwise, too many counter questions arise: where are they planted, what kind of dishes, what kind of soil, what kind of care, etc.

Olga

Tomatoes are very unpretentious, but the necessary living conditions are light, water and a temperature of 16-18 degrees. I don’t know what yours is missing.

Tatiana Vedenina

Perhaps from the sun during the day or from the battery below.

Oleg Shelest

So I will now describe to you the cultivation of tomato seedlings.
1. Sowing. It is produced to a depth of 2cm with seeds that are preferably germinated. To do this, the seeds are laid out on a wet cloth, which lies in a saucer, and placed closer to the battery for 2-5 days, and the saucer with the cloth is placed in a plastic bag and tied tightly. When they sprout (small white dots or small roots up to 0.2 cm appear on the seeds), you need to plant them in the ground under glass or under film. After 10 days, remove the film/glass and give the small sprouts light from the lamps so that the plants do not stretch out and die.

2. Watering - you need to test the soil every other day - if it’s dry, water it, if it’s wet, then sprinkle the plants with water on the leaves, and this can be combined with fertilizing through the leaves or through watering.

3. Feeding. During the entire period of growing seedlings, they are fed several times. The first feeding is Stimovit fertilizer. The second feeding a couple of days after planting the plants in separate cups with uniflor growth fertilizer or plantafol, for example, but other fertilizers for seedlings can also be used. The third - a couple of days before planting seedlings in open ground.

4. Control of pests and diseases of seedlings. To do this, I used the preparations Fitoverm, Zircon, Epin-Extra, etc., but not “heavy chemistry”.

5. Planting in the ground. There are also some nuances here. Tomatoes are wind-pollinated plants, so there is a theory in some sources that they say you need to plant tomatoes in “drafts.” As for predecessor crops, tomatoes are best grown after carrots, cabbage, and cucumbers. You cannot grow it after tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, and physalis, since they have one common enemy - the Colorado potato beetle and late blight - one of the most dangerous diseases for tomatoes. After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, they are watered after a couple of days. Also, during the entire period of growing tomatoes, fertilizing and control of pests and diseases of tomatoes are carried out. Have a good harvest!

◄non-GMO

Just don’t spray on the leaves! ! !they don't like it very much. And feed only when there are clear signs of starvation.

Valentina Timofeeva

Most likely, you are overfilling them, it is better to underfill them than to overfill them, maybe the water has stagnated in the cups, try taking the seedlings into another container, and when they move away, plant them again, check if there is a hole for draining excess water, and whether it is small

help is needed. Why do tomato seedlings' leaves wither?

Alla Lebedeva

See if your seedlings are flooded. In general, any seedlings cannot be flooded. If it is flooded, pour out all the water from the pan. Do not water for several days. Spray the foliage with HB-101, zircon, and epin. a few days later, add phytosporin to the water according to the instructions and water until moist (do not overfill!!!). And spray the foliage again with HB-101, Epin, and Zircon.
And also, if the sun is very bright, then remove it from the window for a while, place it where it is light, but there is no direct sunlight.
Good luck!

Maria

Well, it's dried out, flooded, or there are root pests... maybe the soil failed.

Athena

spray the seedlings with epin (see instructions for the note) tomato seedlings should not be overwatered.