Review of electric knife sharpener. Choosing a sharpening machine

All sharp cutting objects need care and sooner or later require sharpening. Most often we encounter this problem in the kitchen, when knives begin to cope poorly with cutting meat, vegetables and other food products. However, there are camping, hunting or pocket knives that may also require updating the blade sharpness. In any case, you will definitely need a knife sharpener. Some sharpeners require some skill to achieve good result, while others are quite easy to operate. To ensure that your knives serve you well for a long time, you just need to choose the right sharpening tool. But you will understand which sharpener is best for you after reading our review.

A wide variety of tools can also come in handy in the kitchen, some of which are a kitchen scale and an electric can opener.

Features for comparison

Sharpener type

First of all, you should pay attention to the types of sharpeners and, accordingly, to their features, which is implied by their design and purpose. There are several varieties of these devices. Electric sharpeners, mechanical sharpeners, and whetstones are great for everyday use. Electric sharpeners are often trapezoidal or rectangular in shape with several grooves or recesses on top through which the knife must be passed to sharpen. Inside each groove there are discs with a different abrasive coating. They rotate at an angle to the blade and thus sharpen or polish the knife. These sharpeners are very fast and easy to use. Such devices must stand firmly on the table during operation. It would also not be superfluous to have the opportunity to internal cleaning from the remains of metal shavings that may form during the sharpening of knives. Mechanical (manual) devices, as a rule, have a wide range of capabilities: a choice of different abrasive stones, sharpening angles, and the like. Take up little space and can be used in hiking conditions. However, it takes a little practice to sharpen a knife with their help. Featuring an ergonomic handle and rubber feet mechanical sharpener It won't slip out at the most inopportune moment and you won't get hurt. Sharpening stones are what people have been using to restore the sharpness of blades for centuries. Naturally, they have undergone some changes, which mainly affected their shape. They may look like an ordinary block or disk, however, this completely depends only on the imagination of the manufacturer. There are also systems of whetstones with different abrasive properties, some of which are suitable for sharpening very dull blades, others will polish or refresh your knife. Here, the quality of sharpening depends entirely on your ability to handle the sharpener, however, they are still considered the most unpretentious. Special marks that allow you to identify sharpening stones and other auxiliary attributes will make it easier for you to use sharpeners both during their mastering and throughout their service life. Perhaps you plan to sharpen only kitchen knives or are looking for a more versatile device, once you decide what items you need a sharpener to sharpen, it will be even easier for you to choose the right device.

Sharpening angle

It is important to know that it is recommended to maintain the bevel angle that was determined during production in accordance with the material and intended use of the knife, this will help you maintain and extend the life of the blade. It is believed that 15°-22° is an angle suitable for chef’s and fillet knives, and 22°-30° is a sharpening angle for hunting and universal knives (tourist, camping). There are also sharpeners with a universal sharpening angle, which is often the average of these indicators. However, the ability to adjust the sharpening angle when choosing a sharpener is one of the determining factors. If you wish, you can change it, but it is worth considering that the smaller the sharpening angle, the sharper blade, but at the same time its strength decreases. At the same time, a larger sharpening angle is suitable for knives that are made of high strength steel and are designed for heavy work (cutting large pieces of meat, chopping bones).

Sharpening stages

Depending on the blade material and its condition, you may need different sharpening steps accordingly. For knives with a metal blade, the sharpening steps are basically the same. First of all, damage and defects are eliminated, the cutting edge is restored and initial sharpening is performed; at this stage, carbides are most often used as a sharpening material. The final action is to grind and fine-tune the blade, after which your knife will acquire a sharp, smooth cutting edge, this is done using ceramic abrasives or Arkansas stones, quartz rocks mined in the quarries of Arkansas, from which they get their name. For simple maintenance The last step may be sufficient. Abrasive materials could be like natural origin, which have been known for a long time, and those specially produced for these purposes, these are considered more durable. If you have knives with serrated or ceramic blades in your kitchen, you will need a device that can sharpen them.

How to choose a knife

As the Japanese say: “The knife contains the heart and soul of the cook.”

Throughout the history of mankind, the knife has become the most common tool on earth. Kitchen, hunting, combat, multitools, special, work, souvenir, tourist and many other types, and each of them helps a person survive and master nature.

Along with the knife, as an integral part and dyad, there is always a sharpener - without it, the knife will eventually turn into a useless piece of iron. It would seem that sharpening is such a simple process. In fact, it requires patience, accuracy, and most importantly, a sharpening tool, depending on the type of knife.

We will look at what types of sharpening tools there are and how they differ from each other.

Of all the huge number of knives in the world, most of them are produced for use in the kitchen. There are several hundred types of traditional Japanese cuisine alone; Europeans, however, are not far behind them in this regard. In every cafe or restaurant you can see a universal, bread, vegetable, peeling and slicing, meat, fillet, bone cutter, chef's, cheese, tomato, hatchet and many others. In the home kitchen, as a rule, everything is much simpler, but you can find several different knives even there.

Each type of knife has its own specific shape, weight, and dimensions. These characteristics have been optimized for the products and materials being cut and have been proven over several thousand years of use. However, they continue to improve even in our time.

Specific appearance A knife from different craftsmen or companies will, of course, be different, but similar features, by which one can immediately determine its functional purpose, will be preserved when manufactured in different countries.

Sharpening occurs in stages, the number of which varies and depends on the degree of residual sharpness of the knife. First, a cutting edge is formed with a coarse abrasive (and sometimes even bevels are made), then it is processed with a fine abrasive to the required smoothness and then (not always and not for all knives) the leads are polished.

The higher the sharpening skill, the longer the knife will retain its cutting properties.

Sharpening materials

The material from which the knife is made is of great importance for sharpening knives.

The vast majority of blades are made of steel - an alloy of iron and carbon, where the latter is from half to two percent (if less, it will be tin, and if more, cast iron). Its properties are determined both by the amount of carbon in the composition and by the presence of special alloying additives (nickel, manganese, chromium, silicon, vanadium, molybdenum, tungsten), which give the steel hardness, strength, corrosion resistance, and wear resistance.

Depending on the type of additives used, their volume ratio and the method of subsequent heat treatment several hundred are smelted various brands steel with unique properties. One of these properties is hardness - it provides the blade with a combination of strength and cutting properties. So soft grades (52-54 units on the Rockwell scale) bend well, but require frequent editing, while hard grades (55-58 HRC) can be sharpened sharper and retain their cutting properties longer, but are very afraid of bending and impacts on hard obstacles, such like bone, and also require special skills when sharpening.

The manner of working with a knife and the cutting technique of European and Asian chefs are fundamentally different, therefore, historically, European kitchen knives were made of soft brands, and Japanese ones were made of hard ones.

Steel knives can only be sharpened with abrasives that are harder than the steel of the knife itself. The most popular of them are: diamond chips, carbides, ceramics, Arkansas stone.

By historical standards, ceramic knives began to come into use quite recently. Any steel, even with anti-corrosion additives, sooner or later begins to chemical reactions with products that develop a bitter taste and unpleasant odor.

Knives made of zirconium ceramics (white and black) do not have this drawback and at the same time they have incredible sharpness and durability of the cutting edge. However, they are quite fragile and can break if dropped or if they hit a bone or even frozen food. Ceramic knives can only be sharpened with diamond-coated abrasives.

Sharpening angles

Depending on the purpose of the knife, sharpening the edges can be done in different ways.

Their appearance determines the properties, quality and even the very possibility of cutting in different materials - so one shape of edges cuts better, another cuts, some are easier to manufacture, and some retain their sharpness longer.

The smaller the sharpening angle, the sharper the knife will be, however, the cutting edge will crumble faster. To make it strong enough, the sharpening angle must be larger, but this will reduce the sharpness of the cutting part. Because of these very inconvenient alternatives, sharpening is sometimes performed in two or even three stages with microfeeds, and in the extreme, smooth lens-shaped.

The vast majority kitchen knives In order to reduce cost, it was sharpened with a conventional symmetrical wedge.

Changing the angle of inclination when sharpening on a whetstone does not present any difficulties - the main thing is to be able to keep the new value constant. Holding it on sharpeners seems to be an extremely difficult task; only advanced and expensive devices can fix the blade and even set the desired angle.

If long-term sharpness of the cutting edge and durability of the knife are required, then sharpening stones should be chosen as a sharpening tool. They come in different grain sizes. The sharpening process is sequential - the stones replace each other, moving from coarser to finer ones.

A coarse stone is used when the knife is severely dull or damaged and needs to be restored or a new edge formed.

The medium-grain stone smoothes out rough scratches.

Fine-grained sharpens precisely.

Micro-grain polishes to a mirror shine (plus such polishing provides protection against corrosion).

The sharpening angle on stones is initially set using special auxiliary devices for fixing the angle (for example, an apexoid), and after some training, by eye. They are usually made in the form of bars or sharpening sticks.

If effortless sharpening at a very high speed is required, and razor sharp and durability are secondary, then a mechanical model should be chosen as a tool. The sharpening angle in such devices is fixed (if you hold the knife vertically) and corresponds to most wedge-shaped cutting edges of low-price knives.

Sharpen with high quality they won’t be able to and the knife will quickly become dull again, since the stationary bars remove the layer at the cutting edge along, and not at an angle, but for everyday cutting of the usual amount of food for a family, such sharpness will be quite enough. This is a choice for those who have a knife - consumables, there is no reverence for it and the resulting edge quality is quite acceptable.

Currently, manual roller sharpening with rotating ceramic discs is becoming widespread. These models already grind the edge at an angle and thus do not damage the blade, which in turn leads to long-term use without sharpening.

- electric knife

To those who have large collection high-quality expensive knives, or those who are interested in the durability of sharpening, but have no desire or opportunity to tinker with water stones, should choose an electric knife as a tool. Such a device consists of an electric motor, several abrasive wheels and the body, which at the same time serves as a guide for fixing the sharpening angle.

Electric sharpeners, unlike sharpening machines, have lower speeds and do not overheat the edge, and they are also capable of high-quality sharpening of a blade of any length and thickness. The sharpening procedure, depending on the condition of the cutting part, lasts from several seconds to several minutes. Anyone can use them, regardless of experience, and training only takes a couple of minutes.

Depending on the level of technical equipment, the devices can have several levels of processing in accordance with the number of abrasives. So the most advanced ones have stages of sharpening, finishing and polishing; you just need to move the knife into the appropriate slot on the device. Less equipped models have two stages of processing and, most importantly, do not fix the angle and constant pressure along the entire length of the blade. Electric sharpeners are capable of processing very dull, heavily damaged and particularly hard blades, and a large number of them in a row.

No physical effort is required during operation.

Serrated knives (with a wave surface or a saw), scissors, screwdrivers and other household tools can be sharpened either manually with special whetstones or on multifunctional sharpeners. An indication of this possibility will be indicated by pictograms on the device body.

Price range

(the division is very arbitrary)

- up to 500 rub. - coarse-grained corundum sharpening stones, plain hand sharpeners with metal discs, metal musats.

- 500 - 3,000 rub. - synthetic and natural ceramic stones, ceramic and diamond-coated grinders, manual and simple electric sharpeners with ceramic discs and the ability to sharpen serrated knives, scissors, screwdrivers, but, as a rule, without fixing the angle of the cutting edge. Also in this group, hybrids (sharpeners-can openers, etc.) are beginning to appear.

3,000 - 10,000 rub. - sharpening stones of small and very fine grain (high grit), combined two-layer sharpening stones, stones with sharpening devices, two-stage electric sharpeners or combined three-stage ones with mechanical polishing.

From 10,000 rub. - professional three-stage low-speed sharpening stations with diamond abrasives or mini-belt grinders with a set of belts for continuous processing of knives in catering and service companies. That is, devices that allow you to very quickly sharpen a knife according to all the rules.

They have the functions of grinding and polishing; thanks to special clamps on springs, they ensure uniform pressure and the same angle of the blade along the entire length of the cutting edge. Sharpeners in this group allow you to sharpen the entire edge right down to the handle or bolster. Their sharpening module is most often removable and can be cleaned in dishwasher. As a rule, devices in this group contain detailed, proven user manuals with a large number of visual drawings and examples.

The cost of the sharpener should correspond to the price of the knives used

P.S.

Over the course of several thousand years, the sharpening process itself has turned into a sacred procedure, overgrown with many legends and myths. It is believed that not even the most expensive computerized electric knife can compare with the hand of a real master. The secrets of sharpening are passed down from generation to generation. You can spend your entire life learning all the nuances of craftsmanship. The amount of collective experience presented in the literature on this topic has long exceeded the ability of an individual to master the entire amount of information presented. However, this will not prevent any person unfamiliar even with the basics of sharpening from trying different ways and types, so that you can subsequently choose the most convenient and effective one and, perhaps, someday become a real guru in this matter.

Relevance: June 2019

You can't do without a knife in the kitchen. This is one of the main tools of the cook and a source of special pride. Not only the speed of cooking, but also depends on the quality of the blade and the sharpness of the cutting edge. aesthetic appearance dishes. Therefore, special attention is paid to the condition of the knife.

Knife sharpeners have long disappeared from the streets of our cities. But the problem has not disappeared from our kitchens and everyone solves it on their own. You can, of course, go to the garage and use an electric sharpener. What if there is no garage or sharpener? Should you bow to your friends every time your knife gets dull? It is much easier to purchase a knife and keep the blades sharp without leaving the kitchen. Any chef will definitely appreciate this purchase.

We have compiled a list of the best knife sharpeners (knife sharpeners) based on expert assessments and reviews from real customers. Our recommendations will help you make a choice that suits your needs and desires. There are many competitors in the global technology market, but we have selected the best manufacturers and we recommend paying special attention to them:

Chef's Choice
Sitetek
Zigmund & Shtain
Nadoba
Fiskars
Rondell
Hatamoto

Electrical Mechanical Home Polishing

*Prices are correct at the time of publication and are subject to change without notice.

Knife: Electric

For home / Processed material: ceramics / Processed material: metal

Main advantages

Electric sharpener for proper sharpening of Asian blades and knives in Japanese style using Diamond Hone technology
Factory sharpness is ensured by precision guides that sharpen the entire blade, maintaining a 15-degree angle all the way to the tip.
The processing process is two-level. Each side of the blade is sharpened separately. This allows you to sharpen European-style knives that are ground on one side
Finishing is done with the smallest grains of diamond abrasive, which makes it impossible to grind knives with a thick blade, sports knives or for making sashimi.
100% diamond abrasive discs ensure high-quality processing of blades and long service life of the knife

For home / Processed material: metal/ Polishing / Electrical

Main advantages

Knife sharpener with secure fastening of the body using a vacuum suction cup, which ensures a stable position of the device and safe work.
The knife selects itself optimal angle processing and automatically removes metal shavings
The special design of the device protects hands from injury during the sharpening process, ensuring complete safety of operation.
It is possible to process not only regular blades, but also files (certified), which significantly expands the capabilities of the model.
Working metal plates of increased hardness are able to cope with any metal. It is enough to smoothly move the knife blade along them 2-3 times to get a perfect sharpening

For home / Processed material: metal/ Polishing / Electrical

Main advantages

Versatile design allows you to sharpen blades with classic, wavy or sawtooth edges
Powerful electric drive performs fast processing of metal surfaces
The proprietary three-level system includes comprehensive procedures for the initial removal of the layer, finishing and final polishing - this makes the processed product not only sharp, but also durable, increasing the time interval for using the knife without re-sharpening it
A convenient button to turn on the power machine is located at a considerable distance from the processing section, which minimizes the risk of accidental injury
The device is equipped with four legs with rubberized inserts, guaranteeing stability on any type of flat horizontal surface.

Show all products in the category "Electrical"

Knife: Mechanical

Processed material: metal/ Polishing

Main advantages

The comfortable plastic handle ensures a reliable, stable grip of the knife while working.
The rubber coating of the handle prevents fingers from slipping and increases the safety of using the model.
Two sharpening discs of increased hardness are designed for grinding knives made of various metals with straight blades
The blade is sharpened in two stages. First, rough processing is carried out, and then fine finishing of the cutting edge to maximum sharpness
The sharpener, if necessary, can be easily washed in the dishwasher or in a running water, which simplifies and facilitates product care

For home / Mechanical / Processed material: metal

Main advantages

The functional device is suitable for processing the blades of all types of professional and amateur knives with a classic edge
Durable plastic housing withstands even strong physical stress
High-quality two-level sharpening with an angle range from 14 to 24 degrees guarantees an ideal result after active processing and minimal abrasion of the blades of sharpened products
Rubberized coating reduces the risk of the knife accidentally slipping out of your hands
An additional section ensures high-quality sharpening of scissors
Ceramic base stones with diamond coating have long term operation, regardless of the frequency and activity of the activities carried out

For home / Mechanical / Processed material: metal

Main advantages

A convenient button for switching sharpening modes allows you to process the blades of knives and axes
The base body made of polyamide has an increased safety margin compared to classic plastic, is not subject to corrosion processes, is lightweight and does not have a negative impact on the environment
The abrasive ceramics of the whetstone are practically not subject to abrasion even after very long use
The anti-slip base guarantees a stable position of the knife in your hands or on the table
The base of the device can be disassembled if necessary, which allows for complete cleaning of the internal cavities of the knife

Show all products in the category "Mechanical"

A sharp knife is an important accessory in the kitchen. Cooking different dishes with its help is a pleasure. Properly sharpening kitchen tools is an art that anyone should master. home handyman. There are a huge number of sharpening tools on the market - from the simplest whetstones to complex devices. Let's figure out what it is best sharpener for knives, which one to choose.

How to choose the right sharpening angle for a tool?

The most important point when sharpening a blade is the choice of angle between work surface and a blade. This parameter is selected depending on the type and hardness of the metal, as well as the purposes for which the knife is used. Sharpening angle for different types instruments is:

Scalpels and razor blades - from 10 to 15 degrees.
Cutting meat, vegetables and bread - from 15 to 20 degrees.
Professional chef's tools - 20-25 degrees.
Hunting - 25-30 degrees.

Which knife sharpener to choose: classification

Choose the right one sharpening device It’s not easy among the huge number of offers. All devices for sharpening blades are divided into the following classes:

Stones.
Machine tools.
Sharpeners (mechanical or electric).
Musata.

To properly sharpen a knife, you need to know what features a particular device has. This is very important, otherwise the blade may be hopelessly damaged.

Stone

For sharpening kitchen utensils, use natural or artificial stones. Proper use of a whetstone allows you to sharpen a knife efficiently and quickly. The devices differ in grain size:

Large abrasive surface - in order to correctly align the cutting edge configuration.
Medium grit is suitable for blade restoration.
Fine grain does a great job of fine-tuning the sharpness.

Important! If you are thinking about how to choose a sharpener for kitchen knives, it is advisable to buy stones with different grits. In this case, it will be possible to process knives in several ways.

The algorithm for correct sharpening using a stone is as follows:

Wash the knife blade cold water. Cooled metal sharpens better.
Place the knife over the stone at a 30 degree angle.
Move the blade along the stone, from the handle to the tip.
Sharpen each side - to do this, just make 30 to 50 movements for each side.
Finishing - sharpen the knife using a fine-grained stone (approximately 15 strokes).

Important! Sharpening on a fine-grained stone is replaced by sharpening on a special leather belt lubricated with abrasive paste.

Bar

It is made from different materials, but diamond-coated stone is considered the best. This product makes it possible to process knives not only efficiently, but also quickly.

Good results are achieved by products coated with silicon carbide and electrocorundum. Despite its simplicity, this device takes its rightful place in our ranking of the best kitchen knife sharpeners.

Machine tools

A circular machine with abrasive discs is one of the most the best ways do it quickly and efficiently kitchen appliances sharp. The disadvantage of the machines is that they are bulky, take up a lot of space and require certain skills to operate. Often used in enterprises producing cutting tools.

Important! When sharpening on machines, the blades become very hot, so it is necessary to keep the number of revolutions of the machine to a minimum.

The procedure for sharpening on the machine:

Press the blade against the sharpening wheel. Make sure the sharpening is even.
The sharpening angle is 25-30 degrees. The smaller the angle, the thinner and more fragile the blade will be.
Working on the machine should not be rushed. Trying to sharpen the blade quickly leads to damage.

Important! If you do not have experience with the machine, experimenting with it at home is not advisable.

Electric sharpener

These devices are becoming increasingly popular. They are very easy to use, do not require any handling skills, and the knife blade acquires the desired sharpness within a few minutes. Overall, these are the best kitchen knife sharpeners for beginners.

Important! The advantage of these sharpeners is that they themselves choose the sharpening angle. In addition, they are universal, suitable for different types of blades - scissors, screwdrivers, etc.

Electric devices do an excellent job of sharpening ceramic blades. All other options, as a rule, end in failure. Ceramic is a fragile material, and movements on a block or musat will damage the blade. Sharpening a ceramic knife is quite easy. Set the desired mode, place the blade in the hole and press lightly. The device will do the rest on its own. In general, the best knife sharpener is an option for the lazy. And the efficiency is quite high.

Important! The electric sharpener does a great job with the dullest knives. Therefore, experts recommend this option. If previously such devices were very expensive, today they are available to everyone.

Musat

This is a metal rod with a handle. Outwardly it looks very much like a file. Must be used for sharpened tools when the cutting edge is bent. Editing allows you to maintain cutting properties for a long time. You need to sharpen on both sides, 4-5 times, no more. The editing angle is 20-25 degrees.

Are there any tools that don't need to be sharpened?

It turns out there is. Moreover, individual products cannot be sharpened at all. These include:

Tools with a magnetic layer or diamond coating. These are high-quality devices with which you can cut high-density substances. However, when you try to sharpen a blade, the effect is exactly the opposite.
Ceramic products. They can only be sharpened with an electric sharpener or in a factory.
Products with serrated blades. Sharpening leads to damage and disruption of the uniform arrangement of teeth. The result is that the knife completely fails.

A really interesting knife if you don’t have sharpened hands or are just too lazy to sharpen them by hand, but want to have a sharp knife.
If we immediately start with the shortcomings of the sharpener, then there is essentially one! It has a fixed sharpening angle :)
Well, if anyone is interested in reading about the advantages and taking a closer look, let’s move on...

Not cheap, yes, I agree! But a good set for manual sharpening costs slightly less (or the same), and there you need to apply some skill and dexterity, here anyone can do it (even a child and a blonde housewife - I don’t mean hair color)

You need to understand that not just any knife can be sharpened with such a sharpener.

Basic shapes of kitchen knife blades

1 - wedge-shaped slopes from the butt itself, traditional cutting edge. One of the most common shapes for kitchen knives. Cuts thick layers of material very easily;
2 - wedge-shaped slopes starting from the butt, which directly form the cutting edge. This is a fairly common form, but during the sharpening process it almost always turns into type 1. Due to the large area of the slopes at the point, the block is “oiled” with foreign metal, so sharpening such a knife correctly is much more difficult than option 3. Of course, after the point of the knife, polishing of the side surfaces is required, if its appearance is important to the owner;
3 - flat blade, wedge-shaped slopes form a cutting edge, starting from the middle or two-thirds of the width of the blade (counting from the butt). A very characteristic shape for many universal national knives, especially Scandinavian ones. It is often found on sale, it is very easy to sharpen, since the bevel planes set the sharpening angle, while having a relatively small area;
4 - flat blade, wedge-shaped bevels, traditional cutting edge. The most common profile option. Allows you to vary the sharpening angle. The knife is quite durable and cuts relatively easily;
5 - flat blade, wedge-shaped slopes, the cutting edge is formed by a double wedge. If in option 4 the cutting edge wedge is single, then in option 5 some of the material is removed from the corners between the bevel and the edge. As a result, the knife experiences less resistance when cutting thick and dense materials. It is almost never found in factory products, but can be recommended as a basic one to people who have mastered the manual sharpening knives;
6 - flat blade, lens-shaped concave slopes. The angle of the cutting edge is formed by the continuation of two planes drawn from the edge between the blade and the slope to the tip. This sharpening is also called “razor sharpening” - it is typical for straight razors. Easy to sharpen and straighten - the edge between the blade and the trigger serves as a “guide” for determining the sharpening angle. The descents themselves can start almost from the butt. The knife cuts very well comparatively thin materials, worse - thicker ones (due to the presence of an edge). Due to the massiveness of the butt or the blade itself, the knife has significant rigidity;
7 - “chisel” or one-sided sharpening. It is typical for national Japanese knives. Relatively easy to sharpen if the edge is not badly damaged. Minus - the knife is designed for one hand only, the bevel should be on the side working hand. IN in this case a right-handed blade is shown (assuming we are looking at the blade from the handle side);
8 - is actually option 3, only the angle of the cutting edge is such that there are no descents as such. The shape of the blade is typical for cheap Chinese counterfeits of branded knives, as well as for all kinds of chopping tools;
9 - “ogival” or “bullet” sharpening. Feature- convex lens-shaped slopes. It doesn't cut very well, it gets stuck in the material, but it cuts perfectly. Of course, such knives are more difficult and expensive to manufacture and sharpen than option 8.
The cutting edges are highlighted in red.
Most high-quality kitchen knives have blades that start almost from the butt and a small, thin cutting edge. Accordingly, the sharpening process consists precisely in the formation of the correct cutting edge. Its ideal form is a wedge (option 3), or a two-stage (double) wedge (option 5).

The sharpener is a slightly modified, very popular Nakatomi NEC-2000 sharpener. They have interchangeable replaceable diamond rollers, the same power and everything else :)

Description:

The electric sharpener is suitable for all types of knives, including ceramic ones; With its help you can sharpen knives with both single-sided and double-sided sharpening. The sharpener is dual-functional, providing not only sharpening, but also finishing. Equipped with a replaceable diamond roller, it is easy to use and does not require any knife sharpening skills.
Suitable for steel and ceramic knives.
Suitable for knives with single-sided and double-sided sharpening.
Sharpening and finishing functionality.
Replaceable diamond rollers.
Mains powered.
Home electric sharpener with diamond-coated sharpening discs for sharpening and straightening kitchen knives.
The sharpener operates at 220 volts, motor power 18W
Dimensions: Length - 14.5 cm (with removable block 22 cm), width 7.5 cm, height 8 cm
Grit - sharpening 600 grit, grinding 1000 grit

The review will use photographs from the “double” of this sharpener, Samura SEC-2000, sold in online stores in Russia. There is actually no difference (except for a minor one in design), it is quite likely that they came off the same assembly line.
And, well, yes, the one sold in Russia is still three times more expensive :) The block with diamond discs on all these blades is used alone and is interchangeable, so the sharpening quality is the same

Package (in my case Samura).

Funny logo :) with a hint of involvement in Japan, as well as the brand name itself...

Samura is a relatively recognizable brand, specializing in knives and their maintenance.

From one end brief description, with a highlighted warning, read the instructions before use.

Appearance and dimensions:

Everything inside is extremely ascetic, for such a price you could spend money on a normal instruction manual :(

Power unit.

And the knife itself. Everything is just as simple and without surprises.

Side power switch

On the opposite side there is a replaceable block for sharpening (can be purchased separately)
There are rubberized feet on the bottom to reduce vibrations and prevent the knife from simply “driving” on the table.

Side view - sharpening unit removed. The drive mechanism for the diamond discs is visible.

Rear side - socket for connecting the power supply

The electric sharpener is quite massive and has a “noticeable” weight

The size is not very large, it will not take up much space in the kitchen. You can also put it in a locker.

Structure of the diamond disc block:

The rod with the discs is mounted on two bearings and the discs themselves are spring-loaded. When “dragging” the knife, they move slightly.

There are four holes for sharpening. Each under one side of the knife. Two for rough sharpening and creating an angle with 600 grit and two for sanding and lining with 1000 grit

It seems that they write that the sharpener is designed for sharpening knives with a spine thickness of no more than 3 mm, but perhaps this is not entirely true.

You can remove the plastic plugs from the block of diamond discs, and you will even have excellent access for sharpening the axe. Of course, one must keep in mind the precautions for such sharpening.

To sharpen a knife, just connect the power supply to the sharpener, plug it into the network and turn on the sharpener.

There are four holes in the disk block, the first two are for rough sharpening “1”, the other two are for finishing. Each of the holes is for one side of the knife. Sharpen one side of the knife first, then the other.
There is no need to press hard, just pull it towards you. After a small, uniform edge appears on the blade (you can feel it with your finger), we repeat the procedure on the other side of the blade (in the adjacent hole “1”).
Rough sharpening is needed for knives that are in poor condition - removing blade defects - chips and damage, as well as setting the angle if you previously had another knife. If the knives are in adequate condition, then sharpening with a fine abrasive is sufficient; coarse sharpening is not required for them.
There is no need to maintain angles for sharpening. The whole procedure takes about half a minute or a minute. It sharpens knives very well (really), and even our “nameless” knives are not inferior to brands after sharpening (at least for a while;)

You can sharpen not only metal, but also ceramics! The sharpener makes noise during operation, but not very much.

The sharpener needs to be cleaned from time to time:
-rotate the sharpening block clockwise until it clicks.
-remove it from the common block.
-remove the cover of the guide knives and shake it out.

A small study on the quality of sharpening with household sharpeners

In addition to the one described in the review, we will consider a couple more household ones, with manual sharpening.
The test subject will be an old knife - at the beginning of the experiment it is pretty “tormented”.

I immediately apologize for the “dirty” scissors, they’ve been lying around for a long time - I didn’t pay attention when photographing them, but the enlarged photos look terrible :)

I’ll put a mark on the blade of the knife with a marker - we’ll look at a specific place. As you can see in the first photo, the knife is not only dull - it has a blade with a notch/damage.

The first knife, the most common option, has two holes with inserted stones of different grain sizes.

Sharpens the knife as it is pulled through the stone, removing metal along the surface. In fact, after sharpening with this knife, it seemed to me that the blade became even duller :)
The blade was like this BEFORE using this sharpener

This happened after her

At the same time, it intensively removes metal from the blade; in other words, it does not sharpen as much as it damages the blade.

This is partly visible on the edge - the damage that was originally on the blade has gone away. It can only be called a knife with a big stretch. The stone has probably worn out, and now the knife removes metal not only from the side surface, but also from the edge ( however, it’s good she hasn’t sharpened before).

The next one, similar in appearance, is a knife from Ikea. She, surprisingly, sharpens knives quite tolerantly.

The “reason” for more or less acceptable work is the mechanism for sharpening it. When pulling the knife, the discs rotate, sharpening not along the surface, but at an angle.

The photo shows the result of her work.
The edge has been sharpened after the work of the previous knife.

And more visible correct sharpening on the side surface

And finally Samura...
After preliminary sharpening to 600 grit (holes “1”)

And after finishing at “2”

Almost “strictly according to science” ;)

An electric sharpener is certainly not cheap, but the savings in time and effort are colossal. And most importantly, the result is excellent!

After writing this review, I chopped shanks for lunch, old knife(after a new sharpener) it cuts great!

By the way, to all owners of any version of the described sharpener, here for $12.17

And I also got it at an even lower price, but the truth is that its name on the seller’s page (or rather its interpretation) confuses me - I didn’t dare post a review with that title, “because they’ll ban you” ;) Read the beginning of the name, you’ll understand for yourself :))) )

“Good luck everywhere” to everyone, stop by for a review;)

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