Irises amaze the imagination with a variety of varieties and shades. Every gardener will find flowers to his liking for decoration. personal plot. Many perceive these plants as smaller copies of lilies, simpler and less demanding. Therefore, the attitude towards them is appropriate. Often flowers are left to their own devices even in the fall - the above-ground part dries out, tubers and roots remain in the ground without any shelter. For winter-hardy varieties This is not a problem, but delicate species are lost. This does not take into account the spread of diseases, degeneration, and pest attacks.
Irises amaze the imagination with a variety of varieties and shades
Sorry, there are no surveys available at this time.
If the introduction scared you, calm down - irises do not require supernatural care. There is no need to understand the nuances of caring for different varieties. In all cases the requirements are the same. Let's deal with them.
Rotting tops are a direct path to disease and an attractive place for pests. If the tops are not removed for the winter, small organisms choose the remains to overwinter. Therefore, pruning leaves is a must. Leave no more than 10 centimeters above the soil and remove from the beds.
The answer to the question about the ideal time frame for completing work depends on the region where the site is located. It is important to do everything before the first frost, so middle lane start at the end of October (focus on the weather forecast), in the south you can wait a little longer, in the north irises are pruned in September or even August.
Important! Peduncles are removed earlier - immediately after the end of the flowering period. First, the dried flowers are removed, after ten days the stems are removed. To avoid rotting, cut short, leaving no more than 2 centimeters.
Planting and replanting irises in autumn
Autumn - best time for planting and replanting irises. The flowers are guaranteed to bloom next summer.
Important! Choose for irises suitable place. Plants do not like stagnant moisture and need good drainage, ventilation and access to sunlight.
Dried leaves of the plant are a signal to start work. The bulbs are carefully removed from the ground, cleaned and dried in a ventilated area or in the open air. The old skin of the tubers is removed and disinfection measures are carried out.
Different types of irises experience winter differently, since not all of them are equally frost-resistant. But all flowers need good care in the autumn, which guarantees a safe winter, as well as subsequent bright and luxurious flowering.
Features of autumn care for irises
Caring for irises in autumn consists of the following activities:
- pruning;
- feeding;
- preventive treatment;
- shelter for the winter.
In autumn, irises need to be well prepared for wintering.
Pruning irises before wintering
Faded flower stalks of irises are removed almost immediately after flowering ends. It is not recommended to cut the foliage until it withers on its own. In the green above-ground part, photosynthesis processes continue, promoting the accumulation of nutrients in the rhizomes, so it cannot be removed.
Peduncles should be cut out immediately after flowering to prevent the formation of a seed pod.
Yellowed leaves are cut off in September or October, depending on the local climate. The fan of leaf plates is shortened to a height of 12–15 cm from ground level, trying to give it the shape of a house roof so that moisture flows down better and does not linger on the cuts.
The leaves of irises are cut off after they wither and turn a little yellow.
All cut foliage must be burned, since various harmful insects and pathogens of fungal infections settle in it for the winter.
Iris leaves are cut at an angle
Video: trimming irises correctly
Autumn feeding of irises
Like most garden crops, irises are fed with fertilizers of the phosphorus-potassium group in the autumn. It is better to do this after pruning, about 2-3 weeks before the first firm frost.
Wood ash is scattered on the bed between the plants
Irises respond well to application (per 1 m2):
- Phosphate fertilizers:
- superphosphate - 45–60 g;
- phosphate rock - 150–200 g (no more than once every 4–5 years).
- Potassium fertilizers:
- potassium salt - 25–30 g;
- wood ash - 200–250 g.
- Mineral complexes:
- potassium monophosphate - 45–50 g;
- phosphorus-potassium mixture - 50–55 g;
- specialized complex fertilizers for flower crops.
Dry fertilizers are evenly distributed over the previously well-moistened soil under the iris bushes, and then the soil is slightly loosened and granules are embedded into it to a depth of 2–3 cm.
Granules of mineral fertilizers are scattered under the irises and embedded in the soil to a depth of 2–3 cm
In the fall, during the period of going to bed, irises should not be fertilized with mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as well as with organic matter (manure, fresh unrotted compost, chicken droppings), so as not to provoke untimely growth of the ground part. Excess nutrition can cause rotting of the rhizome.
Photo gallery: feeding for irises in autumn
Gera Flower Universal - mixed fertilizer for basic application and fertilizing on all types of annual and perennial soils flower plants, as well as decorative flowering shrubs 
Potassium salt has long been used as a fertilizer; this product is a mixture of potassium chloride, sylvinite and kainite 
Wood ash is a good potassium and phosphorus fertilizer for acidic or neutral soils 
Phosphorite flour is a long-lasting fertilizer; it can be applied once every 4–5 years in increased doses without fear harmful effects on plants 
Potassium monophosphate - mineral fertilizer containing nutrients necessary for full growth 
Fertilizer Autumn universal Terrasol - mixed mineral fertilizer with microelements for feeding in the autumn for fruits and berries, bulbs and flower and ornamental crops 
Fasco Autumn is used at the very end of the growing season 
Fertika Autumn is a complex mineral fertilizer for feeding all types of plants in the late summer and autumn seasons. 
Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer does not contain nitrogen 
Liquid complex fertilizer Bona Forte Autumn is intended for feeding ornamental shrubs And perennial plants 
Fertilizer Clean leaf for flower beds and rockeries - a concentrated mineral fertilizer containing all the elements necessary for plant nutrition in accessible forms
Preventive treatment of irises against diseases and pests
On withered and decaying foliage long time Fungal spores remain, and pests that have settled in for the winter can also be found on them. For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed:
- Fungicides:
- Tsineb - 45–50 g per bucket;
- Fundazol - 30–35 g per bucket;
- Bordeaux mixture (1%), etc.
- Insecticides:
- Malathion (Karbofos) - 60 g per 8 l;
- Actellik - 2 ml per 2 l;
- Aktara - 8–10 g per 10 l, etc.
Preventative treatments chemicals carried out after autumn pruning irises
For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed against pests and diseases.
Opponents of chemistry can pollinate plants with tobacco dust or wood ash powder. An infusion of onion peels (0.2 kg poured into 10 l) will also scare away unwanted residents hot water for 4–5 days).
Photo gallery: preparations for processing irises
Aktara is a strong systemic insecticide with rapid action. 
Actellik is used to treat gardening, agricultural and ornamental plants 
Bordeaux mixture is a drug that is used against pests and many fungal diseases of plants 
Malathion is a broad-spectrum insecticide and acaricide 
Fundazol - fungicide ( antifungal agent) broad spectrum of action for plant protection 
Zineb is a protective fungicide that prevents the development and spread of various diseases
Sheltering irises for the winter
Many varieties of this flower crop have sufficient frost resistance to successfully survive the cold in open ground without additional insulation. Therefore, in southern regions with a mild climate they are not covered for the winter. In the northern regions, where climatic conditions much more severe, it is imperative to protect the plants.
IN warm climate irises overwinter without shelter
Quite often, during the growing season, the roots of irises become exposed and part of the rhizome is exposed. In the fall, you need to carefully examine all the plants and, if necessary, sprinkle the bare parts with garden soil. Young and recently transplanted specimens are subject to mandatory shelter.
Rhizomes that are above the ground must be covered with earth.
Protect beds with irises by laying a mulch layer (5–20 cm) from the following materials:
- rotted manure or compost;
- peat crumbs;
- mixtures of sand and earth (1:1);
- sawdust
It is extremely important that the mulch is dry. I try not to use fallen leaves, hay or straw, which easily rot when wet and are a source of mold and various fungal diseases. Rhizomes, coming into contact with damp covering material, can die and rot.
For the winter, irises are mulched with peat, sawdust, shavings, pieces of bark, etc.
To ensure better snow retention, beds with irises are covered with branches, spruce branches or even tops.
In the northernmost regions, irises are covered with thick mulch. non-woven material or cover with boxes (boxes).
Additionally, irises are covered with spruce branches
Video: rules for successful wintering of irises
Video: subtleties of pre-winter preparation of irises
Strong and well-prepared irises for winter will easily survive the cold season, in the spring they will begin to grow early and subsequently produce powerful flower stalks with large buds.
There is an opinion that autumn care irises are not accompanied by any special troubles. In many ways this is true. And, nevertheless, “rainbow flowers”, like other plants, on the eve of winter need certain measures aimed at preparing them for wintering.
Already in August, the usual care for irises changes somewhat: watering and loosening the soil are sharply reduced or even stopped completely. It is not even advisable to weed the weeds, as this disturbs the soil. It is recommended to simply hook them. At the same time, it is necessary to remove all flower stalks on the stems of the irises (they can easily be broken off at the base by simply pressing a finger, and the broken area quickly dries out).
You may notice that with the onset of cold weather, the rhizomes of irises go somewhat deeper into the soil, as if they are sinking deeper, and not reaching for the sun as much as in spring and summer. This is the result of the retracting action of the roots.
In the second half of October - early November, it is necessary to trim the leaves. It is advisable to cut them in the form of a cone at a height of 10-15 cm above ground level. This must be done for the reason that a large number of pathogens of various types remain on the leaves. infectious diseases, as well as eggs of many pests. In other words, autumn pruning of irises is essentially preventive in nature.
The next step is shelter. The issue of winter shelter for irises is quite controversial. And the answer to it depends on exactly what varieties are grown on the site, what specific climatic region we are talking about and what weather conditions are established in the autumn-winter period of this year.
Let's start with a point about varieties of irises. If we are talking about domestic varieties or varieties of foreign selection that have already been tested in specific climatic conditions, then the question of shelter disappears by itself. These plants have already developed immunity to the winter conditions of this region and are unlikely to freeze out.
Another thing is varietal novelties, which are the latest achievements of foreign breeding scientists. After all, it is still unknown how exactly plants will react to alien climatic factors. That's why better health do not risk irises and with the onset of permanent frosts (but not before!) begin to cover them.
A snowless, frosty winter poses a particular danger to plants. If similar weather sets in at the beginning of the winter season, it is imperative to cover the irises. In the absence of snow, you can use pre-prepared dry covering material. This can be dry sand, straw, dry peat, sawdust, dry chaff, leaves, shavings or classic version- spruce spruce branches. This kind of material is used to pour the iris bush directly onto the frozen ground in the form of a mound. Leaves should be visible in the middle of it. In rainy weather, water will flow down the slopes of the hill without damaging the plant. The layer of such cover should not exceed 15-20 cm.
In early spring, when the soil has warmed up sufficiently, the cover is carefully removed. The leaves are trimmed, and those that have died, dried out or rotted are removed. The backs of the rhizomes are protected to healthy tissue, ventilated, treated with pesticides and sprinkled with clean sand.
If snow falls before severe frosts arrive, providing a layer of 15-20 cm of cover for the plants, there is no need to specially cover the irises. Scientists have noted that every 1 cm of snow increases the temperature by an average of 1 degree. This means that even with 15-20 degree frosts under the specified layer of snow the temperature will remain at 0 degrees.
There is no need to rush to cover irises in regions characterized by winters with frequent temperature changes and long winter thaws. There is no need to rush if the weather is warm at the end of autumn - beginning of winter. You need to look not at the date on the calendar, but at real weather conditions. Otherwise, you can harm the plants. During strong and prolonged thaws, the covering material becomes wet and compacted, which can ultimately lead to damping off of plant rhizomes. In this case, the cause of plant death may not be frost, but shelter.
For centuries, the iris has inspired artists and poets thanks to its grace and sophistication. IN Ancient Rome it was considered the flower of philosophers; in legends and myths it was called the rainbow flower. According to one version, the graceful iris owes its name to the goddess Iris, who descended to earth along the rainbow. One day the rainbow crumbled into pieces, which sprouted flowers of a wide variety of shades. Translated from Greek, “iris” means “rainbow”.
Blooming clumps of these flowers add aristocracy and uniqueness to garden compositions. Irises perfectly fill the gap between blooming early spring And summer flowers. They usually begin to bloom from the second half of May to July. At correct selection varieties You can get flowering that lasts up to two months.
Iris division
You can replant or divide a bearded or any other iris from early spring to autumn, but the most suitable time for this is two to three weeks after flowering. During this period, roots appear on the lateral growths and the division can be broken off without even digging up the main rhizome. However, division can be done later. The main thing is that the plant takes root before the onset of persistent frost (rooting usually takes a little more than a month). If you have to plant irises late, it is better to protect them with covering material.
Irises are divided not only for propagation, but also for the healing and rejuvenation of uterine bushes.
When replanting, the bush is usually dug up completely and links at least two centimeters long with a fan of leaves are separated from the rhizome. They are called delenki. The leaves of the divisions are shortened into a cone shape by a third of the length.
If for some reason you do not need to dig up the entire bush, you can separate the links from the mother plant without removing the iris from the ground. In this case, the division is cut off sharp knife and digs in with a shovel.
A high-quality cutting has a well-developed central fan and a segment of rhizome with well-formed replacement buds. Planting cuttings consisting of sections of rhizome with a faded peduncle, and without young growth, is risky. The fan bearing the peduncle dies after flowering and the division may die.
To get flowering faster, you need to choose large cuttings. It will take about another year to grow small specimens, but even standard divisions of irises only bloom in half the cases the next year after planting.
Good planting material must be free of mechanical damage and dents, and also have a dense rhizome. The cut area is either powdered with crushed coal or covered with thin skin.
Purchased sections are stored in a dry, dark place without packaging. They can be stored this way for a month.
Preparing for landing
Before planting, the iris is dried in the sun during the day. The roots are shortened to ten centimeters. When planting, the root system will play the role of an anchor - it is needed to keep the plant in the ground, but in the future it will no longer grow. Over time, new roots grow and old ones die off.
If desired, you can stimulate the process of formation of new shoots. To do this, before planting, a large rhizome must be cut to a depth of 1 cm in two places and then dried. As a result, when good care You can get about 5 children per year unlike the usual two.
Irises feel comfortable in dry conditions open area or in a slightly shaded place. These flowers are good to transplant to neutral soils, which are not too rich in organic matter.
Ways to improve soil:
- if the soil in the garden is heavy, it can be improved by adding sand and peat;
- to reduce acidity, lime and ash are added to the soil;
- add a little clay and rotted manure to the sandy soil.
It is also important to thoroughly clear the area where the irises will be planted of weeds.
Landing
Plant the iris in carefully dug soil with a spade. Humus and superphosphate are added. At the bottom landing pit They pour a mound where the flower is placed. The plant is positioned so that the rhizome is in a horizontal position on the soil surface, while the fan of leaves should be positioned vertically.
There is no need to deepen the rhizome too much; it must breathe. Otherwise, the plant may not bloom or even rot and die. It is better to secure the planted division with a pin or bracket.
Immediately after planting, irises are not watered, as excess moisture will prevent the plants from taking root.
Irises don't like neighbors. To prevent the plant from being oppressed, it needs to be given a spacious living area. Every year, irises grow due to the growth of new annual rhizome links. To ensure that plants grow towards each other, they are planted in a checkerboard pattern. The recommended distance between specimens is 50 cm. While the newly planted irises are still small, the space between them can be filled with annuals to maintain the appearance of the flowerbed.
Caring for irises in autumn
In autumn, the plant should be fed with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers so that the flower can easily withstand the cold and enjoy abundant flowering next year.
Watering at this time is moderate.
Particular attention is paid to pruning. Faded and wilted buds are removed to improve appearance plants and prevent the formation of seeds, the ripening of which requires a lot of effort.
Pruning irises in the fall requires compliance with certain rules:
Preparing for winter
At the end of August you can already begin preparing irises for winter. The pruning time is over, it’s time to protect the plant from dampness and rain, especially dry-loving species, by covering them with film.
Whether to cover irises for the winter depends on the variety. Tender specimens from southern latitudes can be covered with spruce branches and then with lutrasil.
Simple rules for caring for these magnificent flowers will allow them to bloom profusely and luxuriantly, decorating your garden for a long time.
Autumn pruning promotes more abundant flowering irises in the future
The gardener’s actions after the irises have faded depend on the goals being pursued. If you plan to collect seeds for subsequent propagation of the plant, you can leave a few boxes on the arrows for ripening. But this method obtaining young plants is used quite rarely, so it is more advisable to cut off the faded buds in a timely manner. The goals and reasons for the need for this procedure are as follows:
- drying flowers have an untidy appearance and immediately spoil the decorative effect of the flowerbed;
- the plant spends energy on seed ripening, which negatively affects its immunity and development;
- pruning prevents flowers from self-seeding;
- In fading leaves and buds, pathogenic microorganisms multiply and rotting processes begin.
The main purpose of autumn pruning is to prepare irises for winter. Having lost the main part of the leaves and peduncles, the plant directs all its forces and nutrients to the development of roots. This increases its frost resistance and contributes to the formation of a large number of buds for flowering next season.
Required Tools
If you plan to transplant, the leaves need to be trimmed 4 days before it
Irises are pruned using a sharp, pre-disinfected instrument. It is convenient to remove flower stalks with pruning shears. Garden shears are more suitable for trimming foliage.
Timing and technology of pruning
The leaves are not completely cut off so that they nourish root system and increased plant resistance
Fading iris flowers are removed throughout the growing season. Pruning of leaves is carried out from the end of summer until the end of autumn, when the formation of buds completely stops. Specific dates are determined based on the climatic conditions of the region and the condition of the plant itself. In the middle zone and Moscow region, the procedure is performed from mid-September. In the north, the dates are shifted to the end of August, and in the south - to the end of October.
Pruning leaves too early has a negative impact on the condition of the plant. Irises accumulate nutrients in the above-ground parts and transfer them to the roots. Foliage should be removed no earlier than 2-3 weeks before the onset of the first frost.
Rules for trimming flower stalks
Fading buds are cut off at least once every 2 weeks. It is important to remove from the peduncle not only the withered petals, but also the seed pod formed under them, moving 2–3 cm down from it.
At the end of flowering, approximately from mid to late summer, the stems are cut off almost at the root. Experienced gardeners It is advised to break out the flower arrows. After pruning, stumps remain on the plant, which can rot and become a breeding ground for diseases.
How to trim leaves
Trimming the iris leaves begins from the center of the fan, moving the tool downward at an angle. The result should be a kind of house. The height of the remaining part should be 10–15 cm from the soil surface. This method of pruning prevents moisture from accumulating on the leaves. Do not cut the plates too low: the exfoliated fleshy base will absorb water and the rhizome will begin to rot.
Fungal spores and larvae of insect pests can remain on the leaves, so everything that has been trimmed is taken out of the area and burned.
Caring for irises after pruning and rules for preparing for wintering
Before covering the irises for the winter, it is necessary to loosen the row spacing and treat the top of the rhizomes and the remains of the leaves with fungicides
After removing the foliage, the irises begin preparing for the dormant period. At this time they no longer need frequent watering. If the weather is dry, you can moisten the soil 1-2 times throughout the fall. In the presence of periodic rains, watering is not carried out.
In autumn, plants are fed in last time for the growing season. Apply under the root mineral mixtures, containing potassium salts and superphosphate. The procedure is carried out 2 weeks before pruning or 2 weeks after it. Fertilizers should not contain nitrogen, so feeding irises with mullein or bird droppings in the fall is contraindicated.
An important step in preparing a plant for winter is to prevent infection by fungal diseases and pests. Irises are sprayed with malathion solution or Bordeaux mixture.
The need for shelter for the winter depends on the variety of irises:
- Siberian, yellow, bristly, oriental and marsh winter without additional insulation.
- Bearded, Dutch, Spanish and Japanese are less frost-resistant, so they need to be lightly covered with a layer of straw or sawdust.
- Comb, nameless and lake irises are characterized by poor frost resistance and require serious shelter. These varieties are covered with a layer of straw, and spruce branches are placed on top.
IN additional insulation Plants that have suffered from disease or insect attack also need it. It is also necessary to sprinkle a layer of sawdust, dry leaves or straw on old irises whose roots have protruded strongly above the soil surface.
The mulch layer on the rhizomes of irises should not exceed 10 cm, otherwise the plant will begin to rot during thaws. For the same reason, flowers should not be covered for the winter with materials that do not allow air to pass through.
Iris - pretty unpretentious plant, which can feel great without intervention from the gardener. However, correct and timely pruning in the fall helps to obtain abundant and more long flowering next season.
