A DIY tool box is more practical than spending money in a store. DIY tool box DIY folding tool box drawings

Last year I started purchasing precision computing instruments and decided to build a box in which I could store them. Being pressed for time, I decided that instead of working with my hands, I would cut all the parts using a laser.




These instructions are for assembling a very durable DIY plywood toolbox, consisting of 9 compartments. Pull-out shelves are designed in such a way that they are locked in the drawer and cannot be pulled out completely, so you won’t be able to pull out and drop a shelf with an expensive tool, damaging it.

A lock can be built in to secure the drawers or to lock the top compartment. This tool organizer has withstood a year of rough handling as it moves between my apartment and a local workshop.

Step 1: Materials

Wood:

  • 2 sheets of Baltic birch 150*150 cm and 0.6 cm thick
  • 1 sheet of Baltic birch 30*38 cm and 0.15 cm thick
  • Satin polyurethane varnish

Metal products:

  • 4 screws per 1.3 cm

Foam earbuds:

Step 2: A few design notes


For better protection The box uses double-layer walls. While all internal parts are made from 0.6 cm Baltic birch, all external walls are made of double-layer. This allowed dust protection to be built into the top compartment, as well as a front wall to be added to cover all shelves during transport. In the instructions, the inner layer that holds all the shelves will be called the inner casing, and the outer layer, coated with urethane, will be called the outer casing.

Also pay attention to the notes embedded in the photos. Almost every photo has notes to help you understand how the box is made. These should help you a lot in understanding how to properly glue and assemble the parts.

Step 3: Laser cutting parts



The attached files contain everything necessary projects for cutting: *.ai files for Illustrator and *.dxf files. All wooden parts cut from 0.6 cm thick Baltic birch. All parts were cut using a 150W GWeike LC6090 laser cutter with the power set to 80% at 10 mm/s. I also lightly sanded all the faces and internal surfaces 220 grit sandpaper. Pay attention to sanding and your drawers will slide out much easier.

Files

Step 4: Assembling the Inner Case






First we will assemble the inner housing. Start by making sure everything fits together, and make sure you understand how everything fits together. Depending on the glue you use, the assembly can be completed very quickly. There is no need to generously lubricate everything with glue - just drop one drop of glue on each tooth. Huts exact quantity glue will only cause trouble in the future when you have to clean it off.

First, assemble the two top shelves, which will house three drawers. Glue the dividers to the shelves and then glue the entire structure to the back panel of the inner cabinet. Then attach the three remaining shelf sections to the back panel. You can then attach the side panels of the inner case.

The easiest way to do this is if the glue on all the shelves is still wet, or at least movable. Finally, you can attach the bottom panel of the inner case and the front panel that runs across the top of the inner case (it forms the front of the top compartment). Use lots of clamps to hold all the pieces together while the glue dries.

Remove any excess glue from all joints before proceeding. Any lumps of dried glue will make it difficult or even impossible to insert the drawers when we get to this step. It's easiest to remove the glue while it's still soft, I usually remove it with a chisel or square file.

Sand the wood to remove any glue exposed on the outside of the cabinet. Also make sure that all the teeth are recessed into each other and do not protrude. This is necessary so that nothing gets in the way when we connect the outer and inner housings.

Step 5: Assembling the Drawers





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The assembly of the drawers is obvious. Sand the outer surface so they can easily fit into the inner housing. Please note that on the back of each drawer there is a small hole approximately 1mm thick. Small drawers have one hole, and large ones have two. The holes mark the location where you want to install the locking mechanism.

The circular mechanisms are cut from the back of the case to preserve the wood material. The locking mechanisms will hold the drawer in the box and you will not be able to remove it completely if you drop the equipment on the floor. Screw a small screw (4 pieces, approximately 1.3 cm long) through the back of the drawer into the locking mechanism. Tighten the screw enough that you can easily rotate the locking mechanism from a horizontal unlocked position to a vertical locked position.

This will allow you to easily lock the drawer in the box without having to take everything apart. The attached video shows how the drawers are locked in the inner casing.

Step 6: Assembling the lid





Assemble the inner housing cover and let it dry. The outer cover can then be assembled on top of the inner lid. Check that all the pieces are the right size and lay them out for gluing and quick assembly. Assemble the outer cover on top of the inner cover, apply glue to the surface of the inner cover so that both surfaces are firmly glued.

If you can’t assemble things quickly, use glue that takes longer to dry, so you won’t ruin your workpiece. After gluing the two layers together, I placed the lid over the inner body and made sure that the lid fit well and did not require any additional processing.

Step 7: Assembling the Outer Case






The outer casing is glued on top of the inner casing. Apply glue to the back and sides of the outer case, and also apply glue to the inner case. Note that the outer casing is taller - extra bed the bottom will be used to store the front panel. To determine the height for the inner housing, install the cover and make sure the outer and inner housings fit well.

There will be two panels at the base of the box. The inner panel has a long hole that secures the front panel in place. Glue inner panel to the outer one and quickly glue the entire structure to the inner/outer body.

After everything is dry, put the drawers back in place. If necessary, sand the edges of the drawers - they will move more smoothly. Finish the step by sanding the front of the drawer so that all the drawers and shelves are smooth and even.

Step 8: Assembling the Front Panel





First, place the inner front panel in place and use the holes in it as guides to install the drawer handles. Then glue the two front panels together. You can install them in a drawer to align them with each other. Then carefully remove the glued panel and, if necessary, clamp it in a vice.

Once the glue has dried, sand the panel until it fits well. You can also round the bottom of the panel using sandpaper or a plane. This rounding will make it easier to insert the panel when you close the drawer.

After assembly, I discovered that the drawer handles were a little long and did not allow the front panel to sit flush against the drawers, so I had to cut them down a bit.

Now that everything is put together, sand the outside of the drawer to give it a neat look.

Step 9: Attach the Metal Pieces and Finish the Look of the Drawer









To install the lid, I used a piano hinge. The loop was too long so I cut it to fit the box. On top I screwed a handle from a Fender guitar amplifier. There were 4 fasteners screwed on the sides. Here I went a little overboard, since two fasteners on the front panel would have been enough (but if you are going to use the box to carry a heavy tool, then it is better to screw on 4 fasteners). The side handles were screwed on with short screws - this way I didn't touch the internal drawers. Brass corners were installed on the corners of the box; they will protect the wood from damage.

The lock is a regular lock from a desk drawer. I bent the tab of the lock so that it hooked onto the bracket screwed to the inside of the drawer. Lastly, I screwed a bottle opener onto the side because you never know when you'll need one. Once all these parts are installed, unscrew them to complete the wood treatment.

I applied 4 layers of satin polyurethane varnish. Allow the varnish to dry after each application and lightly buff it with 220 grit sandpaper. I only varnished the outside of the box, leaving the inside of the wood completely untouched.

Now put everything back together and think about what you want to put in your drawer.

Step 10: Optional. Cutting shapes in foam





NOTE: Foam used in movement boxes is a highly controversial topic. The main problem is that it can release neoprene, which can cause damage and rusting of appliances. Therefore, think about what devices and tools will be in your drawer and perhaps replace the foam with foam rubber. Also, if you want to cut holes in the foam using a laser, remember that it is flammable! To make it easier to get the tool out, make gaps between it and the foam of about 2 cm.

  1. Types of convenient boxes
  2. Material selection
  3. A box that looks like a stool
  4. Small portable option

The master always has his own tool at hand. It allows him to quickly cope with assigned tasks. There are never too many tools. Sooner or later there will be so many of them that there won’t be enough pockets to hold all the screwdrivers and rulers. Need a box. They cannot be stored in disarray. Impacts, friction - drills become dull and quickly fail. During work, there is not always time to look for the right screwdriver, so the space of a capacious wooden storage must be used, and the entire volume must be distributed into separate compartments.

The easiest way is to buy a container made of plastic or iron. Inside the finished models, the storage space for tools has already been thought out in advance, divided into several compartments. But homemade box is assembled for each specific master, taking into account the storage locations for tools, consumables and fastening elements. For some people the most suitable simple models, others will need a multi-functional carrying case. It makes sense to find out what types of portable storage there are in order to choose suitable model, and then construct one with your own hands.

Types of convenient boxes

According to the form of manufacture and purpose, tool boxes are classified:

  1. Portable.
  2. Stationary.
  3. Special.

Portable containers for carpentry tools are compact models, inside of which a small number of things needed for work can be placed. The complete set of the case depends on the specialist’s specialization. Its design involves a strong lock that will not open during long-term transportation. The portable box is constantly in motion, so it is important that there are several types of fastenings inside it, convenient niches in which you can, for example, put screwdrivers and secure them so that they do not dangle or knock.

It is quite difficult to make a stationary tool box with your own hands. And all because its design is much more complex than that of a portable one. There is no need to think through the arrangement of fasteners inside. The main thing is to form certain compartments and divide them into groups.

A special case is made for strictly individual needs. It can, for example, only store drill bits or wrenches various sizes. Such a box for small tools is more convenient than universal storage. To perform work, sometimes a master needs to take several special cases with him at once. Before you start making a storage unit, you need to decide which option is most suitable for the job.

To do this you need:

  • make an inventory of available tools;
  • arrange them into groups;
  • distribute by size.

Then it will immediately become clear which box is best to make for tools. The article has several instructions that will help solve this problem. First, it is important to choose the material that will be easiest to work with.

Material selection

The hardest thing to make is a tool box made of metal. This material is not suitable for a portable design - the case will be too heavy. Suitable for stationary models in which iron keys or heavy components will be stored. Welding will be required during operation. If you have the skills and ability to use it, you can try it. If they are not there, plywood 8–10 mm thick can replace metal.

It only looks fragile, but it is very durable material. The parts are fastened together with screws and additionally coated with PVA glue, as they will quickly become loose. To construct the frame, it is better to use hardwood blocks. The walls of the housing must be thicker - at least 10 mm. Boxes with compartments for carpentry tools are best made from 8 mm thick plywood.

The mobility of stationary plywood boxes will increase noticeably if you attach rollers to the bottom, which can be bought at a furniture store.

Boxes under different instruments made of wood - carpentry classics. This material allows you to create any models with your own hands.

Small tool storage case

If you need to have a set of small tools on hand, you can get by a simple box with a handle. The manufacturing process must be divided into several stages:

  • The first stage is planning, making general calculations, drawing. It should show the order of subsequent actions. The drawing is drawn up independently, or you can use computer programs.
  • The second stage is preparing the necessary building materials. These are wooden sheets 10–15 mm thick, nails, fasteners. For work you may need measuring instruments, hacksaw and hammer.
  • The third stage is manufacturing. Using the instructions, you can assemble a simple open tool box with your own hands (photo).

Before starting work, you need to make a drawing.

  • Number 1 – the walls of the box (two pieces).
  • Number 2 – side panels (two pieces).
  • Number 3 is the bottom of the box.
  • Number 4 is a groove made according to the thickness of the partition. Its depth should be equal to one third of the thickness of the plywood.

All parts are cut out using a hacksaw using plywood blanks. Then the edges of the workpieces are sanded with sandpaper. A box is assembled from the largest parts, its sides are coated with PVA glue, then additionally fastened with small nails (it makes no sense to use bolt fastening here). The handle-holder (which is also the partition) is made according to the following scheme:

Plywood with a thickness of 5 mm is selected. The hole for the handle is cut out using a jigsaw. The workpiece is inserted into the grooves made, which are pre-coated with PVA glue. To prevent the handle from cutting your hand, you need to take a block with a cross-section of 20x45 mm. The edges of the block are rounded with a plane. A slot is made across the entire width into which you can simply insert plywood blank. In the end it should look like this.

At the edges of the plywood handle (this is clearly visible in the photo) they are attached wooden slats, in which recesses-holders for pliers, pliers, wrenches or screwdrivers. The toolbox is ready. To prevent it from getting dirty, you need to paint it in several layers with wood varnish.

Using the same plywood, you can make a large box with your own hands, which with a slight movement turns into a stable stool. This was invented by craftsmen working with carpentry tools. You can take this drawing as a basis.

For these parts you need to make four legs measuring 375x50, with bevels at the ends made at an angle of 15 degrees. And also a handle 660 mm long and 40 mm wide. Along the edges there is the same bevel. And here is a visual plan of its assembly.

The stool is assembled according to the proposed scheme, the parts are fastened with 4.5x60 mm screws, and not with self-tapping screws. At the final stage you get a box like this. Making it yourself is simple, and the result is multifunctional storage for tools. If you turn it over, you get a stable stool.

Small portable option

There is the most easy option making a box that is suitable for the average homeowner. Externally it will look like in the photo.

The model is accompanied by a detailed drawing:

Number 1 indicates the side, number 2 – the bottom of the wooden box, number 4 – the handle stand. The handle itself is a block measuring 382 by 30 mm. Another detail is the holder - a rectangle 118 mm wide and 55 mm long. You need to make three identical holes in the holder. A drill is used for this. Assembling a large box begins with connecting the bottom and side, then installing the handle stand. The photograph shows all stages of the upcoming work.

Then the second stand is installed, and at the same time the parka holder is inserted into the blind holes. Then the fasteners for screwdrivers are installed. This is what should happen in the end.

Any responsible owner always keeps all the tools in their place. Even small sets should be stored neatly and organized. To organize a place to store tools, keys and other devices, you can independently organize cabinets, tables and drawers with the possibility of transportation.

A wooden suitcase for keys is not only part of the image of any craftsman or carpenter, but also a functional component. At a certain point, the assortment of tools reaches such a state that without organizing organized storage, the necessary key or screwdriver becomes simply impossible to find. In addition, there are also instruments that are demanding in terms of storage conditions and can become damaged and unusable due to interaction, friction and shaking.

If you need remote repairs, when you need to perform some task away from the workplace, a transport suitcase or tool case will be very helpful, and also if you want to organize storage, dividing it into sectors for automotive, plumbing, carpentry tools .

So we need a storage box the right tool, consumables and fastening elements. On sale you can find enough large selection a variety of suitcases and boxes, light, comfortable and compact. Selecting one for the required tasks will not be a problem, but they cost a lot of money.

Construction and material

Let's first determine what types of boxes there are:

Before starting manufacturing work, you need to clearly determine which option you need. And you should start by completely reassembling your instrument, sorting them into groups and sizes. In the end you are without special effort you can choose on your own required quantity boxes.

Material selection

  • Metal. Quite difficult to make. May require welding and cutting metal structures made of sheet metal. As a result, such a product will weigh a lot and be difficult to move. But due to its advantages, this option is worthy of attention. When storing heavy and large tools, there is less chance of damage to the compartments. However, it is not suitable for storing carpentry tools. The ideal combination would be to make a workbench and built-in metal boxes. When making a mobile version yourself, you can use thin sheet metal and copy the design from a factory product. Still very interesting option- mobile cart with drawers. It is equipped with special swivel wheels for ease of movement. This option has gained popularity among auto repair shops, garages and vehicle maintenance services. Trying to make this option yourself will cause a lot of difficulties.
  • Plywood. You can make almost identical boxes using plywood. A big advantage will be the ease of processing of such material.

You should start with a drawing with dimensions. The dimensions must be made in accordance with the dimensions of the tool that is planned to be stored in it.

Particular attention is paid to the layout, fastening and other elements that are taken into account at the design stage.

Tool box

When creating a wooden tool box with your own hands according to a drawing that we already have, we will need:

  • Lumber, board 10−20 mm thick.
  • Wood saw.
  • Pencil and ruler.
  • Fastening elements.

The classic design does not have compartments, cells or other functional devices; it consists of a deep box and a handle for transportation. The shape of the handle is designed for more comfortable carrying if the tool is unevenly located in the box. The only addition that would be appropriate is an insert in the middle of the box to divide the container into two compartments. In the left section you can store drills, bolts, nuts, screws and other small parts. On the right are hammers, keys and other large elements.

If such a box is not planned to be constantly transported, it would be rational to make a retractable lid on top of the box. The parts are cut out of the board according to the dimensions from the drawing and fastened with self-tapping screws. Can be painted or coated to increase service life protective coating plywood surface crafts.

DIY iron tool organizer

The basis is a case consisting of several boxes fastened together by movable bars, one of which turns into a handle.

  • Sheet of iron or tin of small thickness.
  • with cutting and cleaning wheels.
  • Bolts, nuts, washers for fastening parts.
  • Pliers.
  • File.
  • Anvil.
  • Hammer.

Of course, the first stage is to draw a drawing and dimensions for the required size of the tool and storage compartments for various consumables and fasteners. In the dimensions you need to take into account the joints and places of bends, make a small margin of 1-2 millimeters. Marking can be done with a core directly on a sheet of iron. After marking the sheet, we move on to cutting.

For straight external cuts, you can use an angle grinder, for closed corners- only metal scissors. We start manufacturing with the main part of the boxes, there are 2 open ones, 2 closed ones with organizers and one large one, which is the base. The guides are made of thicker iron and secured with bolts or rivets so that they have free movement to allow the case to be folded.

To summarize, we can say that if you want, everything is possible. If your inventory is good, supplement it with compartments and storage containers. If you have a huge number of all kinds of tools, as well as power tools, you should think about creating a large box that will fit everything in and help keep everything safe and sound. You will no longer have to constantly look for the right key or screwdriver, because everything will be in its place.

The various designs of tool boxes discussed in the article are united by the ease of doing it yourself. Select suitable project and, guided by our drawings and photographs, make yourself a convenient portable storage for the tools and equipment used in your work.

Simple open box

This box is good because the tools in it are located in their places and are in sight. You can’t put a lot of accessories in it, but there is room for the main ones. An open box will come in handy at home, when you need to repair something outside the workshop: you put in the box what is missing and go to work.

A wooden tool carrier is heavier than its factory counterparts, so you shouldn’t plan it to be too bulky. The box will not hit your knees if you make it narrow. The high handle also adds convenience - you don’t have to bend low to pick it up.

Select suitable pieces of plywood and scrap pine boards. Mark and cut out the box parts. Select grooves in workpieces using a hand router or make circular saw two cuts and clean out the recess with a narrow chisel.

Details of the box body: 1 - wall (2 pcs.); 2 — sidewall (2 pcs.); 3 - bottom; 4 - groove along the thickness of the partition and a depth of 1/2-1/3 of the thickness of the material

Sand the surfaces and assemble a rectangular box from the blanks. Coat the ends with wood glue and fasten the parts with small nails.

Cut out a central partition from 5 mm plywood, the width of which should be 1 mm less than the distance between the grooves in the walls of the box. Mark the location of the cutout for the arm, drill an entry hole for the file, and cut the plywood with a jigsaw.

Partition drawing

Apply glue to the grooves and install the partition in place.

Make two linings for the handle from a block with a cross-section of 20x45 mm, rounding the corners of the blanks with a plane. Prepare holders from slats for hand tools: in one, cut out recesses for pliers and pliers with a jigsaw, and in the other, drill holes for screwdrivers with a drill. Using glue and screws, secure the parts to the partition, placing them at different heights.

To prevent surfaces from getting dirty for a long time, coat the box with varnish.

Tool box in stool

In this upside-down stool, you can carry the tool to any place in the house or yard, and by placing it on its legs, you can reach a shelf or hammer a nail where your height is almost insufficient.

Using plywood or OSB with a thickness of 10-15 mm, cut out the cover (item 1), longitudinal drawers (item 2) and sidewalls (item 3) according to the dimensions indicated in the drawings.

Make a handle and four legs with bevels at the ends at an angle of 15° from bars with a cross-section of 40x50 mm.

Assemble the stool, fastening the parts with screws.

Box assembly diagram: 1 - lid; 2 - drawer; 3 - handle; 4 - leg; 5 - sidewall

Round the edges of the lid and the oblong cutout in it, and apply a finishing coating.

Box for a young master

If your child enjoys tinkering or tinkering, work with him to create a small toolbox for his favorite tools.

Take planed 16mm boards and cut out the parts according to the drawings. Prepare a round birch stick for the handle.

Drawings of drawer parts: 1 - side panel; 2 - bottom; 3 - handle; 4 — handle stand; 5 - holder

Draw lines on the sides parallel to the edges, corresponding to the positions of the handle posts, and drill through holes for screws between them.

Remove any burrs with sandpaper and begin assembling the box. First connect the bottom and sides using glue and screws, then install the handle stand along the marking lines.

Now replace the second post while inserting the handle into the blind holes. Screw on the screwdriver holders.

Paint the box a color of your child's choice.

Wooden box with lid

The required set of tools varies depending on the hobby or profession, respectively, and internal structure box may be different. The next option for carrying tools is suitable for any equipment and is distinguished by its solidity and reliability.

Use light wood for the box: pine, linden or poplar. Optimal thickness planed boards - 12 mm, thinner ones are more difficult to fasten, and thick ones will increase the weight of the structure.

Required accessories:

  1. Pen.
  2. Corners - 8 pcs.
  3. Latch - 2 pcs.
  4. Loop - 2 pcs.

Mark the lumber according to the drawings and cut the blanks.

Cutting blanks for the box

Table. Parts List

Make sure the cutting is correct by folding the blanks into a box. Sand all parts one by one with 220-grit sandpaper and mark them. Assemble the bottom and lid of the box using clamps, corner clamps or mounting brackets to secure the pieces. Apply wood glue to both joining surfaces.

Drill guide holes for the screws and countersink them for the heads, and after fastening the parts, wipe off excess glue with a rag.

Fasten the body blanks of the portable part. Replace the partitions by screwing them on the sides and bottom.

Screw the carrying handle in the middle.

Install support rails inside the box at a distance of 30 mm from the top.

Use fine sandpaper to clean off pencil marks and burrs near the screws, and blow off dust from the surface.

Cover the box with a layer of polyurethane varnish, after drying, remove the raised pile with a “null” and repeat the finishing.

Align the hinges with the gap between the body and the drawer lid. Mark and make guide holes for screws 10 mm deep, secure the hinges.

Screw the corner covers using small screws.

Install the handle and latches on the lid.

Fill the finished box with tools.

If desired, place containers with dividers or cassettes for storing small items in the large compartment of the drawer.

If you decide to add partitions inside the box, make them removable so that you can change the free space for a new tool.

A box for storing various small items and products is considered an indispensable attribute in a modern household. Thanks to this design, everything is in its place without creating clutter. For example, vegetables and fruits should be stored in a ventilated structure where fresh air can easily enter.

Monolithic products without any holes are suitable for tools. Designs with additional doors and a folding mechanism are suitable for various small items.

We offer original options DIY storage boxes. Here you will find out what materials and tools you will need to make these products.

What materials are used to build structures?

Most often, boxes are made of wood and other materials. For instruments, it is better to choose solid pine or maple. Alder or aspen is suitable for products. These tree species are distinguished by their durability and strength. They do not emit resinous secretions and do not dry out over time.

Plywood is suitable for making decorative items. You can place all sorts of little things here. To fix the parts, a special adhesive composition is used.

Master class on creating a box with your own hands

We offer step by step instructions how to make a box at home. To do this you will need the following tools and materials:

  • measuring tape;
  • simple pencil;
  • board 25 mm thick;
  • wooden edges 15 mm thick;
  • thin plywood;
  • metal corners;
  • nails and screws;
  • hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • metal hinges for opening the lid structure;
  • hammer.

First of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the diagrams and drawings of how to make a box. This will allow you to correctly compare the dimensions of the finished product. You should not make too large structures, as they will take up a lot of free space.

When all the components are ready, you can proceed to making a storage system for vegetables and fruits. The process includes several stages:


On the surface of the boards we mark the size of the side parts of the product. Next we move on to the bottom of the box. We mark the size on the wooden edges. After this, using a hacksaw, we begin to cut out the blanks.

We fix the boards together using small nails. We attach the bottom parts using the same method.

The cover of the product consists of a plywood sheet. It is installed on special hinges that allow you to control the closing process.

The photo of the DIY box shows the entire work process.

Tool storage box

This type of design is considered best idea DIY box. This product will allow you to keep all your working tools in one place. Here you can make additional sections for storing screws, nails and nuts.

To do this you need to prepare:

  • thin board;
  • thick plywood;
  • hacksaw;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • measuring tape;
  • drawing of the finished product;
  • metal corners.


On sheets of thick plywood we make markings for the drawer parts. After this, we drill holes for fastening the metal hinges. Next, we connect the side parts to each other.

Let's start making the bottom for the storage system. To do this, we attach a thin board to the sides of the box. To prevent it from collapsing under the weight of tools, it must be strengthened with thin boards. To do this, several wooden elements are stuffed on the bottom surface.

On the side parts of the plywood we draw markings for the handles. They will be cut inside the main body of the product. Here you will need an electric jigsaw. The cutting base is installed at the beginning of the marking.


In the process of cutting out parts, you should not make sudden movements. They can cause cracks to appear on the surface of the product.

Now let's start installing the partitions. To do this from thin plywood cut out a small square. It is fixed with metal corners in the middle of the structure.

The diagram shows a detailed view of the tool box. The drawing shows the exact number of parts:

  • side parts – 4 pcs.;
  • bottom – 1 pc.;
  • septal wall;
  • handles – 2 pcs.

DIY photo of boxes

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