Why does alocasia shed its leaves? How is high-quality care for “Alocasia” carried out at home? All flower diseases

Every gardener knows about such a unique and beautiful tropical flower as alocasia. The room conditions are completely unsuitable for them, but some housewives strive to create a favorable climate, and in some cases this works. As a result, the plant has strong and green leaves throughout the year. Sometimes a plant pleases with the flowering process.

Caring for alocasia is simple, just follow a few rules. The flower itself is not picky about conditions. When there are favorable climatic conditions, it can be grown in open ground from the first days of May to the end of October. However, too careful an approach can have a detrimental effect on the plant, and the question will arise: why does alocasia turn yellow? This process is caused by many reasons. If you know about them in advance, you can eliminate the occurrence of problems.

Favorable conditions

Before purchasing alocasia, you need to learn about the conditions that are required for its growth and development. This will eliminate the possibility of yellowing and plant death. The place where the flower is located should have good lighting, but without direct sunlight. For spring and summer, during plant growth, the temperature is maintained at +23 degrees. In autumn or winter, the indicator should be lower so that alocasia remains dormant.

The soil in which the flower is planted requires constant watering, but it is not recommended to over-moisten it, because this will cause the leaves to turn yellow. During dormancy, the amount of water is reduced, but watering cannot be removed completely. Spraying the plant leads to the appearance of yellow spots or white streaks.

The growth and development of the flower is influenced by the air humidity in the room. Its indicator should not exceed 70%, but a decrease will have a negative effect - the tips of the leaves will acquire a yellow tint.

The reasons for the change in plant color include lack of nutrients. In many cases, the lack of nitrogen has an effect, so it must be added to the soil after a certain period of time, selecting a mineral fertilizer in which the microelement indicator is quite high.

When the first signs of yellowing appear, the leaves are checked for the presence of cobwebs or powdery coating. If these damages are detected, the plant is sprayed with Aktara. At the beginning of the development of the disease, wiping with a solution made from simple laundry soap will help. It is necessary to cut off damaged sheets only after they have dried.

There is another factor why alocasia turns yellow. Leaves change color and begin to wilt due to overwatering. When they turn yellow from the edge, it means that there is a large amount of salts, chlorine and iron in the water that was used. To eliminate this phenomenon, the water must be settled. When maintaining constant heat in the room, yellowing appears due to drafts.

To preserve a tropical plant, you need to monitor the temperature and humidity of the air, carry out timely watering, take into account the peculiarities of its maintenance and pay attention to its location. An integrated approach to growing a flower will allow you to enjoy its beauty throughout the year.

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Description of the plant

Alocasia is a genus of perennial herbaceous plants of the Araceae family. Representatives of the genus grow in height from 40 cm, some stretch up to 2 m or more, that is, they have both compact, small sizes and giant tree-like forms. In most cases, evergreen, occasionally with leaves falling off in winter. It is distinguished by the unusual shape of flowers and fruits. Cuts of the plant exude a clear liquid called milky sap.

Alocasia is native to the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. In its natural environment it can be found in Malaysia and Ceylon. One of the features of alocasia is that it uses leaf blades to get rid of excess moisture in the soil and air. During prolonged rains, with excess moisture in the soil, the plant is not able to absorb all the water, the leaves begin to “cry”.

There are superstitions associated with this tropical flower, beliefs according to which the plant predicts rain. For this reason, it is sometimes called the “weather man.” However, this behavior is very simple to explain - before the rain, air humidity increases, under the influence of which the leaves begin to secrete liquid.

A strong, thick, shortened stem is usually vertical, occasionally elongated and creeping. The rhizome is thick, short, often tuberous.

Depending on the species, the number of leaves may vary, and during the flowering period some species may have only one leaf. Many species, in addition to one leaf, have cataphylls that perform protective function in relation to the newly appeared leaf. In other species, the sheath of the previous leaf plays the same role: it is long, permanent or falling. Species with regularly appearing cataphylls usually have small vaginas.

The petioles are long, juicy, fleshy, dense, often veiny, and have stomata on the surface of the leaves, through which the plant gets rid of excess moisture. Young leaves mostly round shape. The alocasia plant has large, dense adult leaf blades 20-100 cm long, with solid edges of arrow-shaped, core, oval or shield-shaped, with a pointed end, sometimes pinnately dissected into asymmetrical oval or triangular segments. In many species, in addition to the dark green color, the leaves have red spots, white or yellow pronounced strokes, and veins. Copper-red alocasia does not have a spectacular pattern on the leaf plate, but the upper and lower sides are painted in different colors.

Due to the unusual shape of the leaf blade, the plant is called “elephant ear”, as well as “shamrock”, since three leaves always grow on the plant; when the fourth one is formed, the oldest leaf immediately turns yellow and dies.

Alocasia rarely produces its own flower. Flowering varieties are extremely rare among alocasias. Inflorescences begin to form, in most cases, together with new leaves and only in deciduous varieties. They have an unusual, candle-shaped shape in the form of small fragrant pale pink or light beige flowers, collected in an inflorescence spadix. Externally, the inflorescence is partially wrapped in a wide blanket, shaped like a slightly unfolded scroll. The inflorescence is located on a dense shortened peduncle. After pollination, fruits are formed - berries bright red ellipsoidal or hemispherical in shape, containing 1-5 seeds. As the fruit sets, the cover gradually cracks and opens.

Alocasia is grown because of its beautiful decorative leaves, since the flowers do not have much aesthetic value. U flowering plants slows down, even stops the growth and formation of new leaves, they partially fall off. Because of this, it is recommended to remove the flowers and treat the cut areas with activated carbon.

The tubers of some species are edible, rich in starch, and grown for human consumption. All parts of the plant contain toxic substances that can cause harm to health; ingesting them can cause numbness and swelling of the tongue and throat. Alocasia juice, if it gets on the skin and mucous membranes, can cause severe irritation. The plant is recommended to be placed in places inaccessible to children and animals.

The fragrant alocasia has medicinal properties and is widely used in Chinese folk medicine. The leaves are used in the treatment of pneumonia and tuberculosis, the stems are used for stomach pain and toothache. It should be remembered that the plant is poisonous, abuse and exceeding the prescribed dosage can provoke undesirable consequences for the body.

At home, caring for alocasia requires regular, but at the same time uncomplicated. Create suitable conditions simple enough. By following simple maintenance rules, the plant will delight you with its tropical, exotic appearance for many years.

Bloom

Alocasia blooms only when comfortable conditions for growth and development are created, and only after reaching adulthood (5-7 years). Flowering is always accompanied by stress for the plant, since budding takes a lot of energy from the perennial. During this period, the growth and formation of new leaves stops, many species shed their leaves. Because of this feature, it is recommended to remove the formed inflorescences, since many lovers of exotic tropical plants grow them precisely because of the unusual, spectacular foliage.

Types and varieties

There are about 70 species of alocasia in nature. Of all the varieties of alocasia, only a few species are grown at home, where they grow no more than 1 m in height, although in natural conditions they can reach three meters.

According to height, all types of alocasia are divided into two groups:

• The first includes all large species with a height of more than 1 m: the brightest representatives of this group are large-rooted alocasia or arma, fragrant, kalidora;
• the second combines compact species up to 1 m in height - Alocasia sandera, Alocasia capulata, Alocasia Amazonica. The most popular for growing at home are Alocasia Polly, large-rooted, sandera, black velvet and others, distinguished by their original texture and color of foliage. The most popular for growing at home are Alocasia Polly, large-rooted, sandera, black velvet and others, distinguished by their original texture and color of foliage.

Large rhizomatous

A rather tall species, at home it grows up to 3-5 m, with a diameter of up to 2.5 m. Other names are mountain alocasia, lead-gray alocasia, thick-stemmed alocasia. In its natural environment it is found in South Asia, on the islands of Oceania, and in the tropical forests of Australia. It mainly grows in roadside ditches, along the edges of wet fields, near housing. Alocasia macrorhizomatous has various varieties and garden varieties. The leaf blade is a uniform light green color, very large, oval-arrow-shaped, more or less vertical, can reach 100-120 cm in length and up to 50 cm in width, the edges are soft-toothed and sinuous. The petiole is fleshy, strong, up to 60-130 cm long. The trunk is vertical, up to 1.5 m in height. The plant is listed in the Guinness Book of Records due to the gigantic size of its leaves.

Black corduroy

A deciduous and decorative variety with a low stem (up to 10 cm), a round or oval leaf shape, 35 cm long, 25 cm wide, on strong petioles 15-25 cm long. Other names are alocasia velvet, alocasia “Black Velvet”. At home it grows up to 30-45 cm in height. The sophistication and unusualness of Alocasia Black Corduroy lies in the color of the leaves: the lower part is a solid green color, the upper part is velvety, rich dark green with a metallic tint and pronounced white veins. It blooms with a pink spadix up to 10 cm long, with a pink and white spathe.

Kalidora

A popular hybrid obtained by crossing fragrant alocasia and alocasia gageana. Up to 1.5-2 m in height, the leaves are large, up to 1 m long and 50-70 cm wide. The color of the leaf blades has been preserved in its original form - bright green. The care and maintenance requirements are no different from other species, but this species prefers open spaces. Alocasia calidora is as fragrant as the “base” species.

Amazonian

A deciduous ornamental plant, a hybrid variety, obtained by crossing Alocasia Sander and Alocasia Lowe. The stem is 15-20 cm high, the leaves are dark green, thyroid-shaped with a Y-shaped notch at the base, on which individual lobes with clear white embossed veins are clearly visible. The edges are jagged or wavy. The leaves sit on long pink-green petioles with dark strokes, 40-60 cm long. The plant blooms with small white-pink flowers, collected in an inflorescence spadix 15-20 cm long, but does not bear fruit at home. Alocasia Amazonian at home has a height of 40-60 cm, the crown diameter reaches 60-80 cm.

Sandera

Belongs to tall species. Alocasia sandera grows up to two meters and has a tuberous, shortened rhizome. Leaves are 30-40 cm long and up to 15-20 cm wide, thyroid or arrow-shaped, elongated, dark green in color with a metallic glossy sheen. The edges and lateral veins of the leaf are lined with white, the petioles are brown-green, strong and quite long, about 25-60 cm.

Large-rooted

Another name for thick-stemmed alocasia, Indian or arma. Found naturally in Eastern India. In recent years, interest in the species has practically disappeared in Russia. Unlike other species, it calmly tolerates drying out of the earthen coma, temperature changes, and low air humidity. Large-rooted alocasia - tall plant in culture, up to 1.5-2 m high, with a strong fleshy stem. In the natural environment it reaches 5 m. The leaves are large, up to 1 m long, glossy, solid green or light green in color, on long petioles, arranged alternately.

Copper red

In cultivation, the bush reaches a maximum height of up to 1 m, the crown grows in diameter up to 1-1.5 m. The rhizome is creeping, 1-1.5 cm thick. It is the most spectacular, decorative and compact among cultivated alocasias. A distinctive feature of copper-red alocasia is the different colors of the sides of the leaf blade. The upper part of Alocasia is a glossy copper-green, the lower part is purple, red in color, which is why this type of plant got its name. The leaves themselves have smooth, solid edges, oval, ovoid or heart-shaped, glossy with a metallic tint, leathery, with beautiful clear veining, up to 32-35 cm long, up to 20 cm wide. In indoor conditions it blooms quite often, usually 2 peduncles -3 pieces of purple color, 10-15 cm long.

Dragon

A popular variety, it is sometimes called “dragon skin” because of the unusual texture of large oval-heart-shaped, slightly elongated leaves with a sharp end, reminiscent of leathery wings and scales. The light green color of the leaf plate with a metallic glossy tint is effectively complemented by dark green veins. Alocasia dragon is a low flower, no more than 1 m, with a short trunk and long light green petioles, bending under the weight of the leaves.

Red Secret

The copper-red variety of Alocasia was obtained relatively recently; it is a miniature variety, reaching a height of no more than 40 cm. Alocasia Red Secret has large, fleshy, swollen leaves. The underside of the leaf of a young plant is red-green, becoming silver-green with age. Once a year it blooms for two weeks, forming a white ear.

Bambino

A hybrid variety of Alocasia Sander, a miniature form of which is no more than 40-60 cm high. The leaf blades are dark green, narrow, arrow-shaped, with pronounced white-green veins. Alocasia Bambino blooms with white and purple flowers.

Venti

Perennial, reaching a height of 1.5 m or more. The leaves are fleshy, large, 50-60 cm long, 40-50 cm wide, gray-green with a glossy metallic tint, the underside of the leaf is dark red. Quite unpretentious to growing conditions. It grows quietly in partial shade, although in brighter light its decorative properties are better demonstrated. When provided with constant heat, Alocasia Venti grows well and forms daughter nodules.

Smelly

Another name is Alocasia Odora. It is a perennial herbaceous plant up to 2-2.5 m high, with a thick short rhizome containing a small amount of milky sap. From the top of the stem, on 1.5 m petioles, leathery leaf blades of a heart-oval or heart-shaped arrow shape are formed, up to 100-130 cm long and up to 1 m wide, short-pointed at the apex. The edges of the leaf are wavy, the lower part of the leaf fits tightly to the petiole. It blooms rarely, the inflorescence spadix has an original smell.

In its natural environment, it is found in tropical forests, bamboo groves, along river banks, and in swamps in Japan, China, India, Taiwan, Thailand, and Vietnam.

Rhizomes are often used in Chinese folk medicine to treat abdominal pain, cholera, hernia, and insect and snake bites. The perennial is inedible due to the presence of calcium oxalate. In Japan, there is a ban on eating alocasia. Odor's species is very similar to the edible plant Colocasia gigantea and Colocasia edible.

Polly

A tall deciduous and decorative hybrid of Alocasia Sander, often used in interior landscaping. Alocasia Polly is a compact low plant 50-65 cm high, with a shortened stem. Large shield-shaped, pointed leaves grow from a basal rosette on long, fleshy petioles. Leaf blades are up to 50 cm long and up to 20 cm wide, glossy, dark green in color with bright white large veins, with a jagged edge. Due to the shape and color of the leaves, the species is called the “African mask”.

Klobuchkovaya

Rarely flowering, relatively low plant that grows up to 60-100 cm. Alocasia capulata grows in tropical rainforests in Western India and on the island. Burma. The leaf blades are large, dense, ovoid or thyroid-shaped, with rounded edges of a monotonous bright green color. In the natural environment, leaves grow up to 1 m, up to 60-80 cm wide, petioles up to 30-50 cm long. The trunk is thick, up to 5 cm in diameter, branching, reaching a height of 60-80 cm. With age, growing, it loses its compactness, as a result of which it is used for landscaping spacious rooms. Only the healthiest and most powerful plants bloom; the length of the peduncle is about 20-30 cm. The plant can create daughter tubers, they are located close to the tuber.

Home care

Large species love space and look best in large rooms, near artificial reservoirs, fountains. Compact types are located near beds, in the kitchen and in the living rooms. The only thing is that this species does not tolerate drafts and close proximity to working central heating radiators. Caring for alocasia is simple and some nuances in maintaining the perennial should not cause difficulties.

How to care for alocasia so as not to damage the foliage decorative look flower? Mainly, it is necessary to create conditions as close as possible to natural ones, then caring for the perennial will be simple. The plant can become not only an exotic decoration for the home, but also serve as a barometer, predicting a high probability of precipitation, so the appearance of water drops on the leaves indicates impending rain.

Watering

The moisture-loving houseplant Alocasia loves moist soil. In the summer, watering should be regular - once every 2 days, the earthen ball should not dry out. Use distilled or soft, settled water; the soil in the pot must be constantly moist; if water accumulates at the bottom of the pan, it should be removed immediately. IN winter period watering is reduced. When watering, you should find a “golden” mean: you can’t help but add water, but it’s also dangerous to fill the pot, since this can cause rotting of the roots.

Humidity

Originally from the tropics, alocasia prefers high air humidity. To maintain a healthy appearance in the summer, the leaves of the plant are sprayed, the pot with the flower is placed on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay, but care should be taken that the pot does not stand in water, otherwise the roots may rot. In the cold season, when turned on central system heating, the pot with the indoor alocasia plant is placed away from the radiators, and air humidifiers are used to create additional humidity. It is useful to regularly wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or sponge.

Lighting

The tropical plant prefers bright light, but in summer it is better to shade the plant or remove it from direct sunlight. In winter, some species require special care; the alocasia flower (especially varieties of copper-red, Amazonian alocasia, Polly) should be provided with additional lighting.

Species and varieties with monochromatic leaf colors are more tolerant of lack of lighting; variegated ones require additional lighting.

Temperature

Temperature changes can cause deterioration and even death of the plant. During the summer optimal temperature rooms around +20°C, in winter not lower than +18°C. The flower should be protected from drafts.

Top dressing

Caring for alocasia at home requires the application of complex mineral fertilizer for indoor plants. In the spring and summer, this is done every 14-20 days. Potash fertilizers are most suitable for tropical perennials. During flowering, feed twice a month complex fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. If the nitrogen content in the soil is insufficient, plant growth slows down and alocasia diseases may occur. In winter, the flower is fed once a month.

Soil

The soil for alocasia should be nutritious, medium density, loose, with good permeability to moisture and air, a substrate with a slightly acidic reaction. Prepare the soil for the plant: leaf, coniferous, peat soil (1 part each) and ½ part sand.

Possible difficulties

The perennial alocasia is a fairly unpretentious plant, but some problems may arise when grown at home. This is mainly due to errors in the maintenance of the flower.
Insufficient watering can provoke the proliferation of spider mites. Fading leaves can be a signal of both excessive and insufficient watering; you should review the watering regime or change the soil to a lighter and looser one. If the leaves begin to cry, you should reduce spraying and watering.

Slowing or stopping the growth of the plant indicates a lack of nitrogen in the soil; to solve the problem, the flower is fed with a urea solution at the rate of 1 gram per liter of water. If the leaf plates are too small, the flower experiences a lack of nutrients; fertilizing should be applied.

If the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, this indicates an insufficient level of air humidity; the roots are experiencing a lack of water.

How to save alocasia if it loses its bright color, which indicates insufficient lighting? In this case, the flower pot should be moved to a more illuminated place. If natural light is not enough, additional artificial lighting is used.

The appearance of dark spots on the leaf plate indicates frequent temperature changes and the presence of drafts.

When a perennial begins to lose leaves, check the rhizome for rot. If there is no damage to the underground part, the flower is transplanted into new soil. Alocasia is artificially put into a “dormant” mode, the flower pot is left in a cool, dry room, and when new shoots form, the pot is returned to conditions comfortable for the flower.

Why do alocasia leaves turn yellow?

What to do if the weather leaves turn yellow and lose their decorative appearance? The main reason why alocasia leaves turn yellow is improper placement of the flower. When exposed to direct sunlight for a long time, the leaves begin to wither, turn yellow and fall off. The optimal lighting for a flower is bright but diffused light. Another possible cause may be unsuitable water for irrigation, containing iron, salts and chlorine. For irrigation use distilled or settled water. There is no need to sound the alarm if one leaf turns yellow; this is a normal process, since when one dies, a new leaf appears.

Diseases and pests

Since alocasia is poisonous, it is rarely attacked by insect pests and is resistant to various diseases. However, if the conditions of care and maintenance are violated, the plant can be attacked by aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, thrips and scale insects.

When attacked spider mite thin white cobwebs appear on the underside of the leaf. They fight the pest by spraying the affected areas with a weak tobacco infusion, and sprinkle the places where the cobwebs appear with ground sulfur.

With the appearance of scale insects, dark spots. They fight it by spraying with a soap-tobacco solution with the addition of kerosene or denatured alcohol.

When aphids appear, the leaves lose their decorative appearance, dry out, and become deformed. The pest settles on the underside of the leaf, feeds on its sap, and multiplies quickly. To kill aphids, spray a solution of nicotine sulfate with soap in a ratio of 1 gram of powder per 1 liter of soapy water.

Alocasia pests mainly appear due to low humidity and high air temperatures and stagnant moisture in the soil.

Pest control begins at the first signs of damage; leaf blades are wiped on all sides with a soap solution, powdered with ground sulfur; in advanced cases, broad-spectrum insecticides are used, for example, Actellik.

After treatment, a day later, the plant must be rinsed well in the shower, after covering the soil with film. If insect pests are detected, the treatment is repeated again.

Due to waterlogging of the soil, stagnation of water and too dense soil, the plant becomes ill with a fungal disease - root rot. For control, fungicides (Topsin, Fundazol) are used, the flower is transplanted into new loose soil, and the affected and rotten parts are removed. The formation of brown spots on alocasia leaves indicates a disease powdery mildew: in this case, the plant is treated with copper-containing preparations (Oxychoma, Polycarbacin). To prevent alocasia disease, the flower is sprayed with a soap solution and treated with colloidal sulfur.

Planting and propagation

At home, alocasia can be propagated in the following ways: cuttings, dividing the bush and planting seeds. Planting is done only in spring in fertilized loose soil. Choose deep flower pots with drainage holes at the bottom. The pot is filled to 2-3 cm with drainage material, then the soil is filled.

Transfer

Young plants are replanted every year in the spring, adult plants once every 2-3 years. It is necessary to provide a good drainage layer for better removal of excess water. For adult alocasia, transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method. If you plan to divide the bush, then the rhizome is freed from the earthen coma. Choose a new flower pot that is taller than the previous one and larger in diameter. The need to replant a flower is signaled by roots protruding from the drainage holes of the flower pot. In this case, the roots completely fill the entire space of the container, and the plant becomes cramped in it.

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to propagate alocasia: by seeds, dividing the rhizome (sprouts or daughter tubers), and stem cuttings.

Propagation of alocasia by seed has a characteristic feature - the variegated leaf characteristics of the plant are not transmitted. This should be taken into account when propagating species with variegated leaf blades. In this way, only alocasia with single-color foliage can be propagated.

Seeds are sown in spring in seedling containers with loose soil (peat, leaf soil and sand). During storage, seeds lose their viability due to loss of moisture, which is why sowing is carried out immediately after collection. Deepen 0.5-1 cm into the soil, moisten and cover the container transparent material(glass, polyethylene) to create a greenhouse effect. Boxes with soil should be located in a bright room at a temperature of +22...+25°C. The soil should be kept moist and constantly sprayed. After emergence, after 2-3 weeks, the cover is removed. The seedlings peak when 2-3 leaves form and are transplanted into individual small containers up to 7-10 cm in diameter. The next transplant is carried out only after the flower pot is completely filled with horses. The method requires patience, since only after 1 year large leaves appear on the young plant.

When propagating by stem cuttings, in the spring, cut off a leaf with a small fragment of stem pulp at an angle of 45°. The cut area is sprinkled with charcoal and left for 2-3 hours. To accelerate the development of the root system, Kornevin is used: the cutting is immersed in this biostimulator for a couple of hours, then planted in a separate flower pot with a sand-peat mixture. By the end of the first month, the cuttings will take root, which will be signaled by the beginning of the formation of new leaves.
In the case of propagation of alocasia by offspring or daughter tubers, it is much easier to obtain a new young plant. Sprouted nodules are replanted when at least one leaf sprouts and opens.

The division of the rhizome is carried out during the transplantation process. To do this, remove the plant from the pot and free the roots from the ground. If this is difficult to do, they are lowered into water. The bush is cut into several parts with a knife so that each plot contains one or more leaf rosettes or a growth bud. All cuts are treated with charcoal. After the plots are planted in individual flower pots. The room temperature should not be lower than +23°C; it is necessary to ensure regular spraying of new plants until the leaves on the sprouts become elastic.

Medicinal properties

Alocasia has healing properties; all parts of the plant have analgesic, antioxidant and antimicrobial effects. The ability to disinfect is used in the treatment of bactericidal and infectious diseases (streptococcus, staphylococcus, tuberculosis, etc.). Alocasia is used in oncology against cancer; the plant suppresses the development of cancer cells and has a rejuvenating effect on the body.

The medicinal properties of alocasia are used in the treatment of fever and malaria; the flower is placed near the patient’s bed, especially for coughing, sneezing and purulent wounds. It has a calming effect on the mental state, improves sleep patterns, relieves tension after stress, and helps with seasonal depression.
Using alocasia in landscaping design, it not only serves as decoration, but also disinfects the air, neutralizes various poisons and toxic fumes.

It should be remembered that all parts of the plant are poisonous; during treatment, the dosage prescribed by the doctor should be strictly followed; self-medication with the herb is dangerous to health. The sap of the grass is also poisonous; rubber gloves should be used when working with all parts of the perennial. Only one species is grown in culture (large-rooted alocasia), which has medicinal properties.

Chemical composition

Alocasia is not included in the register medicinal plants on the territory of Russia, its chemical composition not well studied. The use of the plant as a medicinal remedy occurs in countries where alocasia grows naturally.

The leaves of the perennial contain phytoncides, essential oils, hydrocyanic acid, sublimate, and biologically active substances - alkaloids, flavonoids, coumarins. The toxicity of the perennial is due to the presence of calcium oxalate in the plant cells, which has a strong irritating effect on the mucous membranes and skin. Large-rooted alocasia contains mercury and cyanide compounds.

Contraindications

For safety, any use of a medicine based on the weather forecast is possible only after consultation with your doctor. It is prohibited to use alocasia for medicinal purposes by pregnant women and women during breastfeeding, children.

Tincture

For preparation use alcohol (40% strength) or vodka.

Alocasia tincture is made only from leaves with petioles. Take one leaf blade with a petiole, finely chop it, place it in a glass jar, fill it with alcohol or vodka in an equally proportional ratio. To prepare medicines, take the lowest leaf, choose the one that has begun to die, but at the same time retains a green stalk. Leave for 2-3 weeks in a dark place.

Tinctures are used in various areas to treat many ailments. Compresses, lotions, and rubs based on tincture help reduce pain in joint diseases, myositis and osteochondrosis, and are used for thrombophlebitis, various skin lesions (eczema, psoriasis, etc.), and hemorrhoids. Used internally for the treatment of prostatitis, inflammation and pulmonary tuberculosis, blood diseases, mastopathy, and the formation of malignant tumors. When using the tincture orally, gradually increase the dosage. Doctors strongly do not recommend prescribing and using the tincture on your own. Only a specialist determines the course of treatment and the permissible dosage.

Leaf pulp

The medicinal properties of alocasia make it possible to create various healing agents. The pulp from the leaves is used in the treatment of joint, rheumatic and dermatological diseases. Only the lower leaves are used: they are ground in a mortar until smooth and used only as compresses.

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Errors in care leading to spots on alocasia and loss of foliage

When organizing care for your favorite species and variety of alocasia, you need to remember that these plants naturally live in regions with a warm, humid climate. They are not aware of drafts and frosts, and the lack of moisture for this crop is simply destructive.

So that the plant does not feel discomfort, and the leaves of alocasia do not turn yellow or black in the conditions of a city apartment, the plant is provided with an atmosphere closest to the natural environment.

While it is not difficult to maintain a temperature within the range of 18–26 °C in a room, it is quite difficult to create the air humidity necessary for growing alocasia. It is not always possible for gardeners to protect plants from the effects of cold wind and choose a convenient place for alocasia in partial shade.

Lovers of indoor plants who have certain types of tropical crops in their collections often complain that the tips of the leaves on alocasia dry out. Sometimes necrosis spreads to the entire edge of the leaf blade, and then covers the entire leaf. In most cases, such phenomena are signals:

• about excessive lighting that burns the leaf plates;
• about unacceptable temperature fluctuations;
• about the dryness of the air in the room;
• about the small amount of moisture supplied with irrigation;
• about the rotting of roots that began due to stagnation of water.

By paying attention to the condition of the plant in time and analyzing the conditions in which it is located, you can quite accurately determine the cause of drying or yellowing alocasia leaves.

For example, drying out of the leaf edges and the appearance of brown spots may indicate that the air in the room is too dry. When it is possible to bring the humidity to the required 60–65%, the spread of spots stops, and the tips of the alocasia leaves do not dry out. Similar symptoms can be noticed if the plant is exposed to direct sunlight or near heating devices. But the flow of cold air sometimes causes dark brown or black spots to spread across the leaf blade.

Sometimes, when experiencing discomfort, alocasia drops all its leaves. If a gardener notices such behavior of a plant, he should pay attention to the condition of the root system and the above-ground part of the alocasia.

This reaction is possible in two situations:

• if necessary, replant a quickly grown plant;
• on the eve of flowering.

In the first case, a larger pot is selected for the plant and transferred to a new substrate, and in the second, it is better to relieve a very exhausted alocasia from additional load and cut out the emerging peduncle without waiting for flowering.

Interestingly, alocasia can react in a similar way to an unbalanced mineral composition of the soil.

• If it is poor in nutrients, the gardener will notice how the tips of the leaves on the alocasia dry out.
• With a lack of nitrogen, growth slows down, the lower leaves of alocasia turn yellow and wither.
• Unreasonably frequent feeding causes increased growth of foliage, although its shape may differ from healthy.

If measures are not taken in time and care for the flower is not established, alocasia becomes easy prey for pests and pathogens.

Alocasia diseases and their treatment

The composition of the soil and its moisture have a great influence on the health of the plant. If the soil mixture is too dense and accumulates a lot of moisture, you can expect that this will affect the root system of a tropical resident and the quality of its foliage.

Root and stem rot are the most common diseases of alocasia, and treatment of diseases caused by bacteria, viruses and fungi must be carried out systematically and immediately.

Fusarium and late blight on alocasia plants externally appear in the form of brown putrefactive spots on the leaf petioles closer to the base, then the disease spreads to the leaf blades. Tissues change color, soften and die.

When such spots are detected on alocasia, all damaged parts of the plant are removed, making sure to check the condition of the roots, where the source of the disease lies. The cut areas are cleaned down to healthy tissue and treated with charcoal powder. The remaining part of the trunk is wrapped in damp sphagnum moss and placed in a container under a film. In such greenhouse conditions, with regular moisture, alocasia will be able to give new roots and prepare for planting in the ground.

The soil mixture should be disinfected, since putrefactive bacteria can remain in the soil for a long time, and a weakened plant is their main target.

When infected with anthracnose, Alocasia leaves appear brown spots with a yellowish halo. As the disease progresses, the spots on alocasia expand, and concentric circles of a dark shade become noticeable on the affected tissue.

The formation of yellow and black spots on the leaves of alocasia may also mean infection with powdery mildew. For all such diseases, plants are carefully treated with fungicides, and proper care is also provided for them.

As a preventative measure, it is worth regularly removing drying leaves and not leaving fallen plant debris on the soil.

They are the ones that can become a haven for pathogens, the treatment of alocasia from which will require a lot of time and effort.

Harmful insects on alocasia come from infected neighboring plants or from the soil. Often, unnoticed enemies enter the house along with a flower from a flower shop.

Insects and worms feeding on sap weaken the plant. As a result, alocasia leaves turn yellow, their tips begin to dry out, and then the process develops and affects the entire surface of the leaf blades. Without proper attention and urgent measures, alocasia drops all its leaves and may die.

Aphids and scale insects can be controlled with home remedies; these pests are easily detected and just as easily destroyed.

The main dangers for indoor varieties of alocasia are mealybugs, nematodes, aphids and spider mites.

The destruction of these pests is carried out in several stages using insecticides, which are used to treat both the above-ground part of the plant and the soil ball. If alocasia has suffered from nematodes, it is better to get rid of such a specimen, since even with vegetative propagation of the plant there is a possibility of spreading a dangerous infection.

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Plant species

Two types are grown at home. Polly is a large flower, growing up to 70-80 centimeters. This species blooms more often. Its leaves are heart-shaped. The root is a tuber. Amazon – different from Polly snow-white veins on leaves and in smaller sizes (height up to 50 cm)

Less common species are Sandera, Large-rooted, and Bambino. Despite the variety, care for all varieties is the same.

This flower requires special conditions, close to the environment in which they live in nature. If you follow them, he will show himself in all his glory. Its foliage will be shiny, decorated vein pattern.

The tropical flower alocasia loves temperatures between plus 25 in summer and plus 18 in winter. She doesn't like temperature changes. It is not recommended to take it out onto the balcony or street during the warm season. It is also contraindicated for her wind.

Alocasia loves light, but not direct sunlight. In the sun, the leaves lose their color intensity and may even become sick, keep this in mind before growing flowers.

The plant must be watered regularly, observing normal humidity soil. In summer it needs a lot of water, water it often, but do not overwater it - the water should not stagnate. Make sure that after watering there was no water in the pallet.

In addition to watering, it needs to be sprayed regularly, especially in winter, when the air in apartments dry from heating.

In winter, the quantity and abundance of watering is reduced. But at the same time, do not allow the earthen clod to dry out completely. Moisturize it lightly, but not often and not abundantly. Otherwise the roots will rot.

Alocasia leaves require constant attention. They need to be kept clean: wiped or washed.

The original appearance of the flower further enhances its decorative effect. It looks like a cob, beautifully framed by a pink and white sail. Only adults bloom, good developed specimens. The only pity is that this phenomenon is rare.

Alocasia will bloom when you create for it ideal conditions both in winter and summer. It is especially important to create peace and the necessary temperature and humidity in winter, flower buds are being laid, remember these tips.

In the first days of spring, it is recommended to replant adult specimens.

This is done once every one to two years, depending on the condition of the roots. Plant them in tall pots so that they can be placed on the bottom large drainage layer. This is a must, do not over-moisten.

The newly purchased alocosia must also be replanted into new soil. When replanting, wash off all the soil from the tuber, remove diseased areas, if any.

For full growth and development, this flower needs well-ventilated, but at the same time well-retaining soil. The composition must have acidity 5.5 -6.0 pH.

The composition of the substrate is 4 parts of leaf turf, 4 crushed pine buds, 4 peat and one part sand. Store-bought ready-made soil will do.

The soil must be sterilized before transplanting. This is done using the water bath method. The container with soil poured into it is placed in a large filled with water. Sterilization is carried out within 1-1.5 hours.

Feed alocasia once every two to three weeks. It needs mineral and organic fertilizers. Potassium is very useful. Pay attention to the dosage of fertilizer - dilute half of it for fertilizing. recommended dose.

Choose mixtures with a high potassium content. In winter, the plant is at rest; at this time you need to feed them once a month.

Why do the leaves turn yellow and dry out?

Alocasia is a tropical plant, and the tropics have a special climate. Create such conditions at home quite difficult, and sometimes it is impossible.

Unsuitable conditions: dry air, exposure of the plant to sunlight, lack of light, improper soil moisture - all this can cause yellowing and leaf dying.

The cause of yellowing may also be a lack of nutrients in the soil. Perhaps the desiccation of leaves is due to the appearance of pests, take this point into account.

If the leaves turn yellow and begin to dry out, first of all evaluate the lighting of the place where it is grown and the air condition. Inspect the leaves for pests breeding on them. In any case, with this phenomenon feed the plant.

Do not rush to cut off the yellowed leaf so as not to unnecessarily injure the leaf rosette. Let the sheet dry and then remove it.

The large leaves of alocasia easily turn into a convenient breeding ground for pests.

Spider mite. The pest itself is practically invisible to the naked eye, but its presence is indicated by the appearance of cobwebs and small dark dots on the leaves.

When the mite multiplies, the leaves wither, curl, dry out, and become pale. Yellowish spots may appear on the leaves. This happens because the pest sucks juices from tissues. The florist does not immediately notice the appearance of this pest, because it settles first on the underside of the leaves.

When the first signs appear - withering or curling leaves. Isolate the affected plant from others and treat it with acaricidal preparations. Can I recommend "Aktelik", "Marshal".

Spray them thoroughly on all surfaces, leaves and stems. Spraying alone is not enough; it destroys only 80% of pests. After a week, treat the plant again, as during this time new mites form from the laid eggs. And control processing carried out in another week.

Shchitovka. A frequent enemy of indoor plants. This insect is somewhat similar to a turtle, as it has a shell. Scale insects are omnivorous; they even settle on poisonous plants and suck out the juices.

Shoots affected by it stop growing and turn yellow. The pest settles mainly on stems and leaf axils.

If you notice scale insects, first wash all parts with a solution of laundry soap. Then treat with an insecticide. Sometimes gardeners wash off scale insects with alcohol or kerosene. This measure is effective, but can cause burns on the leaves. After applying the poison, the leaves need to be rinse with water, dry.

Aphid. It is settled on plants by the female sower. It lays larvae on the lower surface of the leaves that suck out the juices. Aphids spread very quickly. The leaves affected by it wither, wither.

It is not difficult to notice the appearance of this pest. The larvae are quite large and clearly visible on the leaves. The surface of the leaves becomes sticky.

You can fight aphids with tobacco. Prepare a tincture of 40 grams per 1 liter of water and spray the alocasia with it. You can fight aphids garlic tincture(30 grams of gruel per liter of water).

Alternate treatment with washing the plant, and you will get rid of this pest.

Flower diseases

Any disease can be noticed by a change in the appearance of the leaves.:
• leaves are too light - the plant does not have enough light. Place the flower in a brighter place;
• If the tips dry out, place a container of water next to the plant. Increase the number of sprays;
• yellowish spots are a result of exposure to sunlight. Shade alocosia;
• sometimes alocosia can completely lose all its leaves. Don't rush to throw it away. Remove from the pot and inspect the roots. Perhaps the tuber is healthy. Rinse for 30 minutes in a high concentration manganese solution. Then plant the roots in new soil and place them in a dark place. When sprouts appear, transfer it to the light;
• the tuber may rot if there is too much water;
• black spots on the leaves indicate that the plant is in a draft, and brown spots indicate that you are not watering the plant well.

Restoring a flower lost from disease is not an easy process. A beginner in this case should take advantage of the following advice: experienced flower growers.

The fact is that alocasia does not have aerial roots on the stem, so it is not always possible to root its top. Daughter tubers on the main root too form slowly.

And if the roots are severely damaged, it is generally impossible to save the plant.

But you can still root the top according to a certain pattern. Take the cutting (top) and soak it for 30 minutes in Fitosporin. Treat the part where roots should form with a rooting preparation. for example "Ukorenit".

After processing, place the workpiece in sphagnum or a mixture of sand and peat. Moisten this substrate as needed. Keep the planted cuttings warm not less than 24 degrees, place. Roots should emerge within 4 weeks.

You can also root the surviving part of the trunk. Find the section with two buds and do the same steps as with the crown.

Sometimes adult alocasias lose their decorative properties. If this happens, they need to be rejuvenated. A plant that has shed its leaves for the winter divide the rhizome into two parts and place each in a separate bowl, keep this important nuance in mind.

Pre-treat the division site with charcoal to prevent the roots from getting sick.

If you have a variety that does not shed leaves, a month after replanting in the spring, cut and root the top of the stem. Can be done layering.

To do this, make a cut on the woody trunk, remove 1.5 cm of bark, wrap the cut with damp sphagnum and film and secure with an elastic band. Then top cut and plant.

Wear gloves: poisonous juice can cause irritation on the skin and mucous membranes. And finally, I would like to say: alocasia is rare, endangered species. Therefore, its breeding is your contribution to its preservation.

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Why do the leaves of Alocasia turn yellow? I cut off the yellow leaf (it is believed that a diseased leaf attracts pests), the next one immediately begins to die, the air humidity is ideal, watering corresponds to the season, can I not cut it and wait until it dries out on its own? Hello!
Anna, the conditions that we can create for tropical plants in a room are very far from ideal.
The place should be bright, but not in direct sunlight. It is better to keep in partial shade. Temperature 20-25 degrees in spring-summer, lower in autumn and winter, but not less than 18 degrees (only individual species, for example, fragrant alocasia or large-rooted alocasia, prefer lower temperatures - 14-16 degrees). It is important to always keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, to prevent the rhizomes from rotting. In the autumn-winter period, when the plant is in relative rest, water moderately. Spraying leaves can lead to the appearance of white streaks and yellow-brown spots. Air humidity should be at least 70%.
Yellowing of leaves can be associated with a lack of nutrients and natural aging. However, do not rush to cut off the yellowed leaf; it is better to let it dry on the plant naturally.
Look for cobwebs on the leaves or a white powdery coating on the petioles - if found, spray the plant once a week with Aktara (use a respirator).

Good luck to you. Happy New Year! I bought Alocasia in a store and they advised me to replant it immediately. What soil is needed for replanting? And how to save a plant from dry air in an apartment begins heating season? Where can I buy sphagnum or what can I replace it with? The soil for growing alocasia consists of leaf, turf soil, humus, peat and sand in the ratio 2:2:2:1:3.
For plants, you can purchase a special air humidifier (Kapelka company, tel. 506-49-32, 786-55-36).
You can try to make do with available means: spray the plant at least 2 times a day - morning and evening with a fine spray;
place the pot on a tray containing pebbles or small stones filled with water;
place the pot in a planter or pot larger size, and fill the space between them with peat soaked in water; sphagnum moss is also suitable for this.
Sphagnum can be purchased in large (or small) garden centers (shops), for example, “Flos” t. 918-13-79, “Business bouquet” t. 967-68-00, “Agrotekh” t. . I have a small alocasia. It put out a new leaf, but it doesn’t unfold. Why? Hello, Tatyana!

In alocasia, the leaves do not unfold immediately; at first, the “tube” continues to grow in a folded state, and only after 1-1.5 weeks the leaf will unfold. Some alocasia leaves do not unfold completely, but remain curled at the edges. Why? Hello, Alena!

Young leaves of alocasia, indeed, have curved edges for some time, but over time the leaves straighten. No. They remain folded at the edges forever. Hello, Alena!

In this case, this is a physiological disorder of leaf development. It can be caused by a lack of any battery or a violation of the conditions of detention.

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Botanical description and interesting features

Refers to evergreens. It has large rhizomes from which grassy shoots arise. The shape of the roots resembles elongated tubers. Stems are shortened and erect. The leaves are large, dense, the shape depends on the variety - it can be thyroid, oval and heart-shaped. The petioles are dense, long, and at the base of the leaf they are divided into several veins. In some varieties the leaf length reaches a meter. The edges are smooth or ribbed, the surface is glossy, the color is different shades of green.

It blooms extremely rarely. The peduncle is dense, shortened, in the form of a small light cob, almost completely hidden under the veil. The cover opens only after successful pollination. Ripe fruits are red round berries, open along the longitudinal vein.

Indoor varieties

In total there are about 70 species of alocasia. Only some of them are suitable for keeping in apartments.

• Amazonian. A beautiful plant with a small stem and shield-shaped leaves. The petioles are very long - up to one and a half meters. The color of the petioles is unusual - greenish-pink. The surface of the leaf is uneven, with grooves, and divided into lobes. Leaves are dark in color with white veins and stripes. It blooms extremely rarely in apartments. The inflorescence is a small spadix covered with a white-green blanket.
• Sandera. Hybrid variety. More suitable for greenhouses, but sometimes grown in apartments. It is distinguished by its original elongated arrow-shaped leaves. The color is green with paler green veins. There are small notches along the edges. The rhizome is tuberous, the leaves are petiolate.
• Lowe. A tall variety up to a meter tall. The barrel is short. Interesting feature- attachment of the petiole to the middle of the leaf. The leaf color is green, the veins are green or white. From the bottom side purple tint. The leaves are oval or arrow-shaped.
• Copper red. The stem is short, sometimes hidden underground. The upper side of the leaves has a copper tint, the lower side is a rich purple color. It never blooms in apartments.
• Klobuchkovaya. The height of the plant is up to a meter, the trunk is very short - no more than 5 cm. There is a small notch at the base of the leaf, and a pointed tip at the tip. The leaves are very large, with a pronounced gloss. Sometimes it blooms, but only in adulthood. The peduncle is low - no higher than 30 cm. The inflorescence is a small spadix with a small spathe.
• Large-rooted. Sometimes called Indian. A very large plant. The stem can reach a height of two meters, the petioles - a meter. Characterized by division into lobes at the base of the leaf. It blooms extremely rarely.
• Smelly. The leaves are long, petiolate, leathery. Young leaves are thyroid-shaped, mature leaves are linear-ovate. The flowers are inconspicuous, with a specific aroma. IN artificial conditions rarely blooms.

Features of caring for alocasia after purchase

How to care for alocasia after purchase? If you choose a strong, healthy plant in the store, adaptation will take place quickly. When purchasing, pay attention that there are no stains or dots. The color of the foliage is important - leaves that are pale and yellow will indicate problems with the root system. At home, create all the conditions for quick adaptation.

• Quarantine. Place alocasia separately from other flowers. The room should not be too hot and humid. Avoid direct sunlight and water very sparingly. Keep the alocasia in quarantine for about ten days.
• Processing. Preventatively spray alocasia with a low concentration of fungicide and insecticide. The interval between treatments should be at least three days.
• Transfer. Choose a container of suitable size and good soil composition. Transport soil and containers are not suitable for permanent cultivation. After transplanting, adhere to gentle care - shade from the sun, water carefully.

After ten days, the adaptation stage will be completed - alocasia can be placed with the rest of the indoor flowers.

General rules of care

It is a fairly unpretentious, fast-growing crop. It rarely gets sick and loses its decorative effect only in very unfavorable growing conditions. Caring for alocasia in a pot requires compliance with a number of rules.

• Lighting. Prefers bright but diffuse lighting. Grows well on the east or west side. It can only be grown on the south side with shading. Varieties with monochromatic leaves are less demanding on light levels. With a lack of light, variegated varieties lose their characteristic color.
• Temperature. A very heat-loving plant, it does not like sudden temperature changes and drafts. In summer, the favorable temperature for development is 22-26°C, in autumn and winter - not lower than 18°C.
• Watering. In the warm season, during the period of active growth, water abundantly and often enough. After the top layer has dried, wait one day before watering. Overmoistening and drying out of the earthen coma is not allowed.
• Humidity. Alocasia loves high humidity. In summer, spraying is beneficial. In the cold season and in cloudy weather, it is better not to spray. It is recommended to further increase the humidity by placing small bowls of water next to the plant or placing the pot in a tray with wet filler - sphagnum, hydrogel, decorative stones. As a hygienic procedure, regularly wipe the leaves with a damp cloth.
• Feeding. Standard fertilizers for indoor plants are suitable. Alternate the application of organic and mineral preparations. The frequency of feeding is twice a month. During the flowering period, you can additionally feed with products with a high content of potassium and phosphorus.
• Soil. Prepare loose, slightly acidic, permeable soil. Its composition includes turf, peat, humus, leaf soil and sand. It is useful to add chopped sphagnum and coal.
• Transfer. Once every two to three years you need to transplant the alocasia into another pot. Use an oversized pot, and be sure to add a drainage layer to the bottom. They prefer transshipment to conventional transplantation - the roots are quite sensitive. Each time the diameter of the pot is increased by 2-3 cm.

All methods of reproduction

Propagating alocasia is quite simple. To do this, you can use one of several methods. Each method of reproduction will be described in detail below.

Nodules

The most common and effective method of reproduction. Nodules form on the rhizomes of alocasia. Sometimes they grow leaves on their own. In this case, the young plant is simply carefully separated and planted in a separate pot.

Sometimes nodules form on the trunk of alocasia. They are planted only after the roots appear. To prevent them from drying out, the trunk is covered with damp sphagnum. After the roots form and the leaves begin to grow, they are planted in shallow pots.

The nodules may be in a dormant state. They take a very long time to germinate. The process is accelerated by soaking the nodules in a solution of the drug “Epin”. The soil for planting should be very light. The best option- a mixture of perlite or sand with sphagnum. It is permissible to use pure moss provided that humidity is maintained at all times. In sphagnum moss you can only germinate nodules - immediately after signs of growth appear, the nodules are transplanted into suitable soil.

The nodule is placed on the soil with its beak facing up and sprinkled with substrate. To maintain stable humidity and heat, cover with a plastic cup or jar. The sprout is regularly ventilated.

Apical cuttings

The method is only suitable for propagating adult alocasia varieties with a pronounced stem. The very top of the stem can be trimmed and rooted. A loose mixture of sand and peat is used as a substrate.

The planted cuttings must be covered with a jar or polyethylene. Some gardeners prefer to root in water. Only take boiled water. To prevent rotting, add an activated carbon tablet. The appearance of roots is expected in an average of two weeks.

There is no need to grow the roots much - the cutting with the rudiments of the roots is immediately transplanted into a loose soil mixture. Usually take three parts of crushed sphagnum, add one part to it garden soil. At first, until stable signs of growth appear, they are kept under cover.

Stem cuttings

If alocasia has become very elongated and has lost its decorative appearance, it can be rejuvenated and several young plants can be obtained at the same time. The stem is carefully cut, divided into segments with one or two buds and rooted in the same way as the apical cutting.

The bud is left above the soil surface. Regular watering and spraying. The cuttings are kept under cover. It is useful to add crushed coal to the substrate to avoid rotting of the base of the cuttings. Daily ventilation is required.

Dividing the rhizome

The division procedure is combined with the next transplant. Roots and buds are left on each section of the rhizome. All cuts are treated with fungicides and coal powder to avoid rotting and fungal infection.

Alocasia cuttings are planted in containers with light sandy soil. Water moderately and keep under cover. The film is removed daily for half an hour to ventilate and remove accumulated condensation. From time to time, you can add a little growth stimulator "Epin" to the water for irrigation.

Seeds

Only fresh, recently collected alocasia seeds have good germination. The seed propagation method is rarely used, since it is not always possible to obtain seeds at home - alocasia practically does not bloom in apartments.

More often they use store-bought planting material. It is better to sow with a reserve - not all seeds will germinate. The seeds are pre-treated with Epin to increase germination. The substrate is loose, with a predominance of sand in the composition. Be sure to germinate under cover.

The first shoots appear in two to three weeks. Picking can be done only after the formation of true leaves - after about two to three months. All this time the temperature is maintained at 23-24°C and the greenhouse is systematically ventilated. Seedlings from seeds develop very slowly. The first large leaf will form only after a year.

Growing problems

Despite the unpretentiousness of alocasia, it is not always possible to avoid difficulties when growing. As a result of care errors, infection by pests or diseases, alocasia may lose its decorative effect or die. Below is a table describing the most common problems when growing alocasia.

Table - Difficulties in growing alocasia

Problem	Possible reasons	Solutions to the problem
Alocasia leaves turn yellow	- Problem with roots; - waterlogging; - complete drying of the soil; - pests	- Eliminate care errors; - check for pests
The tips of the leaves become dry and brown	- Insufficient watering; - dry air	- Increase humidity; - regularly sprayed
The leaves are drying	- systematic drying out of the soil; - very low air humidity	- Inspect alocasia for pests; - normalize the watering regime; - artificially increase humidity
The tips of the leaves turn yellow	- Use of chlorinated, hard water for irrigation; - excess nitrogen; - lack of nutrients	- Before watering, the water is allowed to settle; - fertilizers are applied regularly, choosing products with low content nitrogen
Spots appear on the leaves	- Powdery mildew (brown spots); - aphids (yellow spots on wrinkled leaves); - mealybug	- Depending on the identified cause, use fungicides or insecticides
Alocasia is losing its leaves	- Rhizome rotting; - weakening of the plant	- Replanted with fungicide treatment; - arrange a rest period in a cool place with moderate humidity
Leaves are crushed	- Lack of nutrients	- Feed out of turn
Leaves fade and lose color	- Lack of light	- Move to a brighter place; - additional lighting is provided in winter

Reviving alocasia after an illness or pest attack is not always easy. A common situation is rotting of the rhizome. In a neglected state, the only way is to cut off the top to healthy tissue and root it.

The procedure is somewhat different from standard rooting - the apical cutting from a diseased plant takes root more difficult. Before planting, the cuttings are soaked for half an hour in a solution of the drug “Fitosporin”, then treated with any means to stimulate the formation of roots. For example, “Heteroauxin”.

How to care for alocasia so that problems never arise? Experienced gardeners recommend developing an optimal watering schedule, taking into account the time of year and room temperature. Periodically, as a preventative measure, alocasia can be treated with low doses of insecticides and fungicides. If you follow the basic rules, alocasia will delight you with its decorative leaves for many years.

For many years (since the time of Catherine II) Alocasia has surprised flower growers with its exquisite beauty. At the same time, minor difficulties in care are associated mainly with maintaining the required level of humidity, temperature and lighting. However, these worries are not so burdensome, especially when you have the opportunity to contemplate such an amazing creation of nature, grown at home.

Origin and appearance of alocasia

Alocasia is an evergreen shrub native to the South Asian tropics. The peculiarities of the climatic conditions of these places endowed the plant with the specific ability to release excess moisture through the surface of the leaves, which accumulates during the rainy season.

Interesting! Indoor alocasias are also sensitive to changes in humidity. They can indicate waterlogging or warn of upcoming rain by droplets protruding on the leaves.

Alocasia is one of the most beautiful representatives of the Araceae family, characterized by highly decorative leaves. It is noteworthy that they all grow from a short, almost invisible stem, creating the illusion of its absence. In this way, a luxurious evergreen bush is formed, although alocasia is considered a herbaceous plant. The rhizome of Alocasia looks like a tuber. The height of different types of this plant ranges from 30 cm to 2–3 m. This allows the gardener to choose a specimen that suits his desires and capabilities.

There are about 4–8 leaves on one bush. It is noteworthy that when the fourth leaf appears, the process of natural death of old leaf plates begins. However, even with such a small number of leaves, the plant looks simply enchanting.

The leaves of most types of alocasia are quite large (up to 50 cm in length), hard, with a glossy surface. Their shape resembles a heart with pointed corners and curly edges. The clear and relief veins of a light tone attract attention.

The alocasia flower is quite inconspicuous compared to the leaves. It looks like a peculiar sailboat with a pinkish, yellowish or greenish sail and a cob-shaped mast.

House alocasia rarely blooms. And although the main beauty of this plant is in the leaves, it is pleasant to contemplate the graceful flowering of the plant and inhale the aroma of the flower. You just need to create the necessary conditions for alocasia, which is not so difficult to do. After all, this tropical plant is well adapted to the climatic conditions of our apartments, not to mention greenhouses, where large species look especially exotic.

Important! Many experienced flower growers advise removing flower stalks even before flowering, as they take a lot of energy from the plant, which leads to stunting of leaf growth.

If a rare flower is of interest and you want to keep it, then after flowering as a result of self-pollination, fruits may appear on the cob. In the middle of each of them, as a rule, there are up to 5 seeds.

Popular varieties

General characteristics are characteristic of all varieties of alocasia, but they differ in a significant variety of leaves and dimensions. Experts identify about 70 species of this tropical beauty, but not all of them are suitable for growing at home.

Let's take a closer look at the favorites recognized by flower growers:

• Sandera. It has large elongated (approximately 50 x 20 cm) leaves with pointed tips and a curly edge. The dark green leaves with a mercury sheen have brightly “drawn” white veins. The leaf blade has a light edge. The leaves are formed on powerful petioles about 60 cm high.
• Polly. This is a variety of Sandera, which is distinguished by more patterned leaf edges and relatively frequent flowering.
• Amazonian. A smaller variety of Sandera, 40–60 cm high. It is distinguished by almost smooth leaf edges, without teeth.
• Dragon. A low (30–40 cm) plant with leaves in the form of rounded hearts, colored light green with dark green veins.
• Large-rooted. This is a representative of large species of alocasia. The height of such a plant is about 2 m. The length of the petioles is about 1 m. The peculiarity of the leaf shape is that the edges diverge quite strongly in different directions from the petiole. This giant forms huge dark salad leaves 40 x 30 cm, sometimes up to 90 x 80 cm. During flowering, it forms a large (about 20 cm) cob with a yellow-green sail. The berries are glossy, dense, juicy red.
  This variety of alocasia has a variety with elegant leaves covered with white spots and more modest sizes.
• Klobuchkovaya. It can grow up to 1 m. The leaves are green, with raised veins. Their shape is similar to a regular heart with a sharp end. The average sheet size is 25 x 15 cm.
• Copper red. The type most adapted to indoor conditions. It is distinguished by the rounded edges of the leaves, which have an average size of 30 x 15 cm. The front part of the leaf plate has a greenish-copper color with a glossy sheen, and the lower part is purple. The veins are dark green.

Species diversity of alocasia in the photo

Alocasia largeleaf - the largest type of alocasia Clear white veins are a feature of the Sandera variety Alocasia Polly - Sandera hybrid with more pointed and curly leaves A distinctive feature of copper-red alocasia is the reddish-green color of the leaves. Alocasia capularis - a variety with monochromatic heart-shaped leaves Alocasia Dragon is distinguished by rounded leaves and dark veins Alocasia Amazonica - Sandera hybrid with smoother jagged leaves

Seasonal conditions of detention

Alocasia, like all tropical plants, is quite demanding of humidity, heat and light. However, growing a luxurious tropical beauty on your own windowsill is not so difficult. You just need to create the necessary conditions for it.

Specifics of seasonal maintenance at home - table

Season	Temperature	Humidity level	Features of lighting	Optimal placement	Air composition
Spring	21–26 degrees	High. Spray every three days. In hot weather - every day.	Particularly intense for newly planted plants. For green-leaved plants, light shading is possible. Complete exclusion of direct sunlight.	Window sills facing east or west.	Fresh air from a ventilated room. Complete exclusion of drafts.
Summer
Autumn
Winter	Minimum 18 degrees. Elimination of sudden temperature changes during ventilation.	High. Weekly spraying. The warmer the room, the more often the spraying.	Artificial additional lighting for 1–2 hours for varieties with variegated leaves.	South window.

Planting and transplanting

Priming

The main rule when choosing soil is its low density, nutritional value and slightly acidic environment (pH = 5.5–6).

If you want to prepare an earthen mixture for planting or replanting alocasia yourself, then first of all pay attention to the age of the plant. The following mixture will provide adequate nutrition to small young bushes:

• leaf soil - 4 parts;
• coniferous land - 4 parts;
• peat - 4 parts;
• coarse sand or perlite - 1 part;
• crushed sphagnum moss - 1 part.

For alocasias older than 3 years, especially large species, this mixture must be enriched with humus (1 part). However, it must be thoroughly mixed with the soil.

The easiest and most trouble-free option for selecting soil is to purchase it in a store. The ready-made composition for decorative foliage plants takes into account all the needs of alocasia and ensures its full development.

Tip: if you use hard water for irrigation, then more acidic soils are suitable for azaleas or hydrangeas. They curb the negative effects of hard water.

Pot

Alocasia is a rather massive and heavy plant. Therefore, for stability and to ensure sufficient nutrition of the rhizome, it is advisable to choose deep pots with drainage holes. The material is a matter of taste and the capabilities of the grower. Of course, alocasia will be more stable in a heavy ceramic pot, but a plastic one will do just fine.

Photo gallery: pot options for alocasia

Even an old pot can be transformed Reliable and aesthetic ceramic pot - a suitable choice for alocasia A large number of drainage holes ensures good air exchange

If the pot does not have drainage holes, they can be easily made with a hot nail or screwdriver.

Drainage

Well-drained soil is the key to the health and beauty of alocasia. Excellent air exchange for the rhizome will be ensured by the presence of a drainage layer in the lower part of the pot, occupying at least 1/4 of the total volume. Traditional materials for drainage can include expanded clay, pebbles, fine crushed stone, and broken majolica.

Transplantation process

The most intensive growth is typical for young plants. Therefore, they need annual transplantation. It is advisable to carry it out in early spring, before the start of the growing season. Adult alocasias do not grow as actively and should not be disturbed every year. It is enough to change the pot to a larger one and add fresh soil every 3 years.

The transplant process itself is quite simple and consists of sequential operations:

1. Selecting a pot whose diameter is 2–4 cm larger than the previous one.
2. Place a layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot.
3. Adding new soil mixture over the drainage.
4. Removing alocasia from the previous pot.
5. Lightly shaking off the crumbling earth.
6. Installing the rhizome with soil in the middle of the prepared pot.
7. Gradual addition of new substrate around the rhizome followed by compaction.
8. Compact the soil mixture with abundant watering.
9. Removing water collected in the pan (about 1.5–2 hours after watering).

If the plant has long required replanting, and its root system holds the soil very tightly, you can apply the transshipment process with a different sequence of actions.

In this case, it may be difficult to remove the plant from the old pot, since the roots practically grow into it. In this case, it is wise to use a wooden stick or pencil.

How to replant a plant using the transshipment method - video

Specifics of care

How to water a plant

Alocasia, as a native of the tropical forest, is very moisture-loving. During the warm season, it requires abundant watering every other day. But under no circumstances should water accumulate in the pan. Alocasia also reacts positively to leaf moisture. Daily spraying will only benefit her.

In winter, watering should be reduced. The amount of water a plant needs is directly proportional to the thermometer reading. The frequency of watering is equal to the time it takes for the surface of the substrate to dry to a depth of 1 cm. In dry climates, spraying should be continued. However, it is advisable to do this only in the morning hours of sunny days.

Important! The best effect is achieved by watering with softened (settled or boiled) water. For winter watering you need water heated to 20 degrees. Not only drying out of the soil, but also its soaking can be fatal for alocasia.

Top dressing

The optimal regime for fertilizing alocasia with organic or complex mineral fertilizers is evenly, with an interval of 14–15 days during the period of active growth (April - September). The plant gratefully accepts complex fertilizers intended for decorative deciduous plants.

Important! The dosage of fertilizers is taken at half the amount specified by the manufacturer.

In winter, fertilizing should be reduced to once a month.

Bloom

Not everyone has seen alocasia bloom, because it blooms extremely rarely. At the same time, it begins to intensively shed its beautiful leaves. To prevent this process, you can go in two ways:

• cut off the resulting peduncle, preventing the flower from opening, and sprinkle the cut with charcoal powder;
• Allow the alocasia to bloom by feeding it with fertilizers for flowering plants.

The faded peduncle must be cut off so as not to further deplete the plant by ripening the berries.

Rest period

This period is weakly expressed in Alocasia. It’s just that with the onset of cold weather and decreasing daylight hours, it grows leaves less intensively. The gardener’s task during this period is to moderate watering and fertilizing.

What to do if problems appear with the plant?

Alocasia is quite picky and can “show character” under inappropriate conditions. To preserve the beauty of a plant, it is necessary to correctly and timely respond to a signal about a problem, knowing why this or that phenomenon occurs. Let's decipher the most common of them in the table.

Problems of caring for alocasia - table

Signs of erroneous care	Reasons	Ways to fix errors
Slow development during the growing season.	Lack of nitrogen.	Feed with nitrogen fertilizers in a lower dosage (1 g per liter of water).
Lethargy of leaves.	Overmoistening or overdrying of the soil; unsuitable soil composition.	Replant and water according to the rules.
The edges of the leaves dry out.	Severe dry air.	Humidify the air more often using a spray bottle or other means.
Dark spots on leaves.	Blowing through drafts. Low temperature. Sunburn.	Move the plant to a protected place. Shade from direct sun.
Leaf fading.	Poor lighting.	Move to brighter light or provide artificial lighting.
Drafts, temperature fluctuations. Watering with hard chlorinated water.	Move the plant to a protected place. Set aside or boil the water.
The plant has dropped its leaves.	Exhaustion of the plant by flowering. Malnutrition.	Remove the peduncle. Feed the plant according to the rules.
Drops of water appear on the leaf plates.	Excessive watering.	Pour water out of the pan. Allow the soil surface to dry. Water according to the rules.

Manifestation of errors in caring for alocasia - photo gallery

Exhausted alocasia sheds its leaves The result of improper watering and fertilization is the wilting of alocasia Inadequate maintenance conditions harm the decorative appearance of the plant. The result of hypothermia and improper watering is yellowing of the leaf plate

Diseases and pests

Control of diseases and pests of alocasia - table

Diseases and pests	Manifestations	Reasons	Consequences	Corrective Actions	Preventing defeat
Root rot	Stunting of growth, lethargy and deformation of leaves, their falling.	Constant soaking of roots.	Stopping the plant from feeding.	Urgent transplant. Removing the affected roots, treating the rhizome with copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 2 liters of water).	Watering according to the rules.
Aphid	Colonies small insects green, gray, orange color on young leaves, their deformation, lethargy.		Sucking the juice from the plant, leading to its death.	Spray with a mixture of 2 teaspoons of liquid soap, 2 cups of water and 1 cup of vegetable oil. Treatment with Fitoverm insecticide (4 ml per 1 liter of water).
Shchitovka	A scaly pest that looks like brown tubercles tightly attached to the plant.	Introducing with soil or other plants.		Wash off insects with a soft brush moistened with a solution of 15 g of liquid soap and 1 liter of water. Treatment of leaves and soil surface with Aktara at the rate of 0.8 g per 1 liter of water	Inspection of the petioles of the leaves of the purchased plant.
Spider mite	Formation of white spots on leaf blades. Entanglement of leaves with cobwebs.	Drying air. Infection from other plants.		Treatment with Actellik (2 ml per 2 liters of water).	Inspection of purchased plants. Roasting the soil.
Mealybug	Small insects that secrete a white cotton-like substance.			Removing insects and plaque with a cotton pad moistened with soapy water or calendula tincture. Three times treatment with soap solution (15 g per 1 liter of water) at weekly intervals. Treatment with Aktara (0.8 g per 1 liter of water) in the same mode.	Plant inspections in the off-season. Washing leaves from the shower. Maintaining high air humidity.
Small flying insects that secrete a shiny honeydew.	Introduction with soil or other plants, entry through open windows.	Creating a favorable environment for the development of sooty fungus, leading to stunting of plant growth and death.	Single treatment with Confidor (0.1 ml per 1 liter of water).	Inspection of purchased plants.

Signs of infestation and insect pests in the photo

Root rot is the result of a plant's root system becoming soaked. Whitefly settles on the underside of leaves

How to fight spider mites - video

Reproduction

Alocasia reproduces mainly by vegetative means. Seed propagation very complicated due to rare flowering and loss of decorativeness by the plant when the fruits ripen. In addition, the seeds have low germination. Another difficulty is that the varietal characteristics of variegated specimens are not preserved when propagated by seeds. It is possible to grow a full-fledged plant in this way only after a year.

The simplest and effective methods Alocasia propagation involves dividing rhizomes, planting tubers and cuttings. You can grow young alocasia using these methods in just 1–2 months.

Rhizome division

Adult alocasia can form daughter plants with independent roots. It is advisable to plant them out during spring transplantation. To do this you need to perform a number of simple operations:

1. Carefully remove the entire earthen lump from the pot.
2. Wash the soil from the rhizome.
3. Carefully separate the shoots with a sharp, sterilized knife.
4. Sprinkle the cuts with charcoal powder.
5. Plant the plants in suitable sized pots with drainage and a light substrate.

Tuber planting

Another simple and effective way to propagate alocasia is to separate the nodules during transplantation. The process is as follows:

How to propagate alocasia by nodules - video

Using cuttings

This method is less popular. It is used primarily in cases of plant damage. Its essence boils down to the following basic operations:

Attention! Alocasia juice is very poisonous - you can only replant the plant with gloves.

Alocasia does not shed its beautiful foliage. The dark green leaf blades with clearly defined veins attract attention. In indoor conditions, flowering is quite rare and the flowers are inconspicuous. Let's consider which home care she needs it.

In order for the plant to please the eye with its healthy appearance, you need to properly care for it during the period of its active growth and during the dormant period. An unpretentious flower can grow even a beginner florist.

Humidity and watering

Air humidity is the natural environment of a tropical plant, and therefore if the room is dry, then you should take care of humidifying the air. You can place the container with the flower on a wide tray with expanded clay and water; the drainage holes should not touch the water. This will noticeably increase the humidity around Alocasia.

Overwatering is extremely dangerous for the flower

In persistent heat, it is necessary to spray vigorously on the leaf blades.

Watering in summer and winter should be moderate, since it cannot stand overflow. Watering is done with warm, settled water through a tray. When the top layer of soil gets wet, excess water is drained from the pan.

You need to let the soil dry out between waterings.

Temperature and lighting

Since this is a resident of the tropical forest, the temperature should be within 23 degrees Celsius throughout the year.

When the temperature rises to 35 degrees Celsius, the root system stops absorbing moisture and you need to be more careful with watering.

In winter time, if the temperature drops, below 15 degrees Alocasia dies

Alocasia does not tolerate direct sunlight. Therefore, window sills with an eastern and northwestern orientation will suit the flower, and the scorching sun will not damage the beautiful foliage. In winter, the flower is transferred to a window facing south; if it is not there, then it will be necessary to add additional light to the plant.

Like many indoor flowers, Alocasia is contraindicated in direct sunlight.

Soil, drainage and fertilizers

Soil for Alocasia Any will do- the main thing is that it is not sour.

If the florist for some reason is not ready to purchase a ready-made soil mixture, then he can compose the soil himself by taking:

1. Garden soil.
2. Peat.
3. Sod land.
4. Coarse river sand.

All ingredients are mixed in equal proportions and large parts of the soil are removed.

Before planting a flower, you need to carry out soil disinfection potassium permanganate or calcine it in an oven at high temperature.

Expanded clay is used for drainage. It is enough to pour it into a container where the flower will be planted in a layer of 2-3 cm.

In order for the plant to please those around it with its gorgeous foliage, it must be fed from time to time with fertilizers for decorative foliage, since the fertilizer contains a large proportion of nitrogen.

The first feeding after transplantation is done after 1.5 months, since purchased soil already contains all the necessary microelements.

After this period, feed once every two weeks in the summer. In winter, once a month.

Diseases and pests

All problems with a flower are associated with its improper cultivation. If he suffers from gray mold due to flooding, then the soil is urgently changed to new nutritious and loose soil. At the same time, it should be treated with any fungicide.

Pests are kept to a minimum. Scale insects are easy to notice on cuttings and leaf blades. To get rid of it, you need to pick it from the plant manually and treat it with Actellik.

You need to do the entire treatment three times with an interval of 7 days.

Possible problems during cultivation

As with the cultivation of any plant, Alocasia may have its own problems:

• The appearance of brown spots on the leaf blades means too much sunlight;
• Loss of leaf turgor - too much light.

If these signs occur, move it to a more shady place, otherwise it may be lost.

• Loss of all leaf mass - if it occurs in winter, then it should be moved closer to the sun's rays.

If this condition is not met, then new sheet plates won't grow.

Spots on the leaves are a flower’s way of telling its owner about health problems.

What to do if the leaves turn yellow

Leaves can turn yellow when the flower is not replanted for a long time and the soil in which it lives is depleted. The plant simply lacks minerals, and he begins to dry his foliage. If the time for replanting has not yet come, then it is worth feeding the flower with nitrogen fertilizers.

Inspect the flower for the presence of insect pests, and if they are identified, then take treatment measures.

Features of care in summer and winter

All year round tropical beauty needed constant air humidity, but the soil must dry out completely from time to time, since this is not a swamp flower.

They also fertilize the flower all year round: more often in the summer, and once a month in the winter.

Flower propagation

Can be propagated by anyone in a convenient way: by planting tubers, dividing the root or cuttings.

Tubers

This is a common method of propagating Alocasia. This method can be combined well with a complete transplant. When the roots have been freed from the old soil, small nodules are washed using tap water. With their help they reproduce.

Often, gardeners create microgreenhouses by covering plants

The tubers are placed on moist nutrient soil, and cover with glass. Such a mini greenhouse gives good results in growing roots from a tuber. When the first leaf plates appear, the glass is removed and they wait for the roots to grow and completely fill the container of a small disposable cup.

Organize watering correctly to avoid rotting of the tuber.

Dividing the root

Sometimes you can see that a new small plant grows next to the adult mother bush:

Cuttings

This method is suitable in rare cases when the plant trunk is too elongated. It is cut off, leaving a stump of no more than 3 cm, and the cutting is placed in water or planted directly in nutrient soil, while simultaneously creating greenhouse conditions for the cutting. After about a month, the cutting will give roots, and the remaining stump will sprout new top.

Transplantation and transhipment

Transplantation or transshipment is always carried out in early spring at the beginning of the growing season. The frequency of transplantation is once every three years.

Actually, Alocasia requires transshipment (when the earthen ball is not destroyed) in order to better take root in the new container.

They do it like this:

• Prepare a container wider than the previous one;
• Make sure there are drainage holes for water to drain;
• They put it on the bottom expanded clay with a layer of 3 cm.;
• Pour 2 cm of new soil and carefully place a lump of earth with Alocasia rhizome on it;
• The free space between the lump of earth and the new pot is filled with new nutritious soil;
• After transshipment, everything is compacted well with your hands and moistened.

The transplant is being done in exceptional cases:

1. When buying a flower in a store, get rid of greenhouse peat.
2. When infected with root rot.
3. When breeding Alocasia.

The transplant is done this way. Take the rhizome of the flower out of the old soil and carefully clean off the dense peat or old soil with a toothbrush.

A simple whim cannot be a reason for a transplant - there needs to be good reasons

• Drainage;
• A little soil and a rhizome are placed so that the roots are spread evenly in different directions;
• The earth is filled up and everything is moisturized.

When transshipping or replanting, after all actions, place the flower in a muted shade to undergo adaptation.

Handling is often used when working with indoor flowers. Despite its apparent simplicity, it is important to maintain its consistency. For example, we described.

History of Alocasia

Large leaf plates of Alocasia are located on well-developed elastic petioles. People call it “elephant ear”, the name is given because the shape of the leaf has a heart elongated towards the bottom. The leaves also have water channels, with the help of which the plant removes excess moisture.

This beautiful exotic species considers the Philippine Islands its homeland. There, his favorite places are in the tropical forests.

Alocasia throws out buds very rarely. It blooms only in cases where it is completely suitable for home care.

Not all people can tolerate the aroma of Alocasia and after flowering the plant completely sheds its foliage. Flowering occurs in spring.

The medicinal flower has properties that are often used in folk medicine in the plant’s homeland.

Plant, like all aroids, poisonous and use in large quantities threatens to poison the body.

Preparations made from Alocasia have expectorant properties, antimicrobial properties, and increase human immunity.

Over time, many different varieties of the plant have been bred, but the most beautiful ones are in demand among gardeners:

1. Alocasia Sandera.
2. Alocasia Amazonian.
3. Alocasia Polly.

Description of popular varieties

Large-rooted

With good care, Krupnokornevaya grows up to 2 m in height, while the length of its leaf blades can develop up to a meter in length with a width of 50 cm. Moreover, they are bright green in color with clearly defined lobes.

Polly

It's practically the smallest variety among Alocasia. It grows no more than 50 cm. At home, with proper cultivation, it grows like a perennial flower. The leaves are dark green in color with clearly visible white veins dividing the leaf into zones.

Polly - a popular medium-sized variety of Alocasia Polly - a popular medium-sized variety of Alocasia Polly - a popular medium-sized variety of Alocasia

The beautiful tropical flower Alocasia will feel good at home if it is sufficiently surrounded by human care.

Alocasia is an exotic tropical plant, many species of which differ from each other in height, shape, size, and leaf color. Alocasia is very popular as an indoor flower. It is grown at home as a magnificent foliage and ornamental plant. It fits perfectly into any interior design and serves as a decoration for winter gardens. As an indoor flower, alocasia looks great on verandas, in bright foyers, near artificial fountains and ponds.

Alocasia is a genus of perennial herbaceous plants of the Araceae family. Representatives of the genus grow in height from 40 cm, some stretch up to 2 m or more, that is, they have both compact, small sizes and giant tree-like forms. In most cases, evergreen, occasionally with leaves falling off in winter. It is distinguished by the unusual shape of flowers and fruits. Cuts of the plant exude a clear liquid called milky sap.

Alocasia is native to the tropical forests of Southeast Asia. In its natural environment it can be found in Malaysia and Ceylon. One of the features of alocasia is that it uses leaf blades to get rid of excess moisture in the soil and air. During prolonged rains, with excess moisture in the soil, the plant is not able to absorb all the water, the leaves begin to “cry”.

There are superstitions associated with this tropical flower, beliefs according to which the plant predicts rain. For this reason, it is sometimes called the “weather man.” However, this behavior is very simple to explain - before the rain, air humidity increases, under the influence of which the leaves begin to secrete liquid.

A strong, thick, shortened stem is usually vertical, occasionally elongated and creeping. The rhizome is thick, short, often tuberous.

Depending on the species, the number of leaves may vary, and during the flowering period some species may have only one leaf. Many species, in addition to one leaf, have cataphylls that perform a protective function in relation to the newly emerging leaf. In other species, the sheath of the previous leaf plays the same role: it is long, permanent or falling. Species with regularly appearing cataphylls usually have small vaginas.

The petioles are long, juicy, fleshy, dense, often veiny, and have stomata on the surface of the leaves, through which the plant gets rid of excess moisture. Young leaves are predominantly round in shape. The alocasia plant has large, dense adult leaf blades 20-100 cm long, with solid edges of arrow-shaped, core, oval or shield-shaped, with a pointed end, sometimes pinnately dissected into asymmetrical oval or triangular segments. In many species, in addition to the dark green color, the leaves have red spots, white or yellow pronounced strokes, and veins. Copper-red alocasia does not have a spectacular pattern on the leaf plate, but the upper and lower sides are painted in different colors.

Due to the unusual shape of the leaf blade, the plant is called “elephant ear”, as well as “shamrock”, since three leaves always grow on the plant; when the fourth one is formed, the oldest leaf immediately turns yellow and dies.

Alocasia rarely produces its own flower. Flowering varieties are extremely rare among alocasias. Inflorescences begin to form, in most cases, together with new leaves and only in deciduous varieties. They have an unusual, candle-shaped shape in the form of small fragrant pale pink or light beige flowers, collected in an inflorescence spadix. Externally, the inflorescence is partially wrapped in a wide blanket, shaped like a slightly unfolded scroll. The inflorescence is located on a dense shortened peduncle. After pollination, fruits are formed - bright red berries of an ellipsoidal or hemispherical shape, containing 1-5 seeds. As the fruit sets, the cover gradually cracks and opens.

Alocasia is grown for its beautiful decorative leaves, since the flowers do not have much aesthetic value. In flowering plants, the growth and formation of new leaves slows down, even stops; they partially fall off. Because of this, it is recommended to remove the flowers and treat the cut areas with activated carbon.

The tubers of some species are edible, rich in starch, and grown for human consumption. All parts of the plant contain toxic substances that can cause harm to health; ingesting them can cause numbness and swelling of the tongue and throat. Alocasia juice, if it gets on the skin and mucous membranes, can cause severe irritation. The plant is recommended to be placed in places inaccessible to children and animals.

The fragrant alocasia has medicinal properties and is widely used in Chinese folk medicine. The leaves are used in the treatment of pneumonia and tuberculosis, the stems are used for stomach pain and toothache. It should be remembered that the plant is poisonous, abuse and exceeding the prescribed dosage can provoke undesirable consequences for the body.

At home, caring for alocasia requires regular, but at the same time uncomplicated. Creating suitable conditions is quite simple. By following simple maintenance rules, the plant will delight you with its tropical, exotic appearance for many years.

Bloom

Alocasia blooms only when comfortable conditions for growth and development are created, and only after reaching adulthood (5-7 years). Flowering is always accompanied by stress for the plant, since budding takes a lot of energy from the perennial. During this period, the growth and formation of new leaves stops, many species shed their leaves. Because of this feature, it is recommended to remove the formed inflorescences, since many lovers of exotic tropical plants grow them precisely because of the unusual, spectacular foliage.

Types and varieties

There are about 70 species of alocasia in nature. Of all the varieties of alocasia, only a few species are grown at home, where they grow no more than 1 m in height, although in natural conditions they can reach three meters.

According to height, all types of alocasia are divided into two groups:

• The first includes all large species with a height of more than 1 m: the brightest representatives of this group are large-rooted alocasia or arma, fragrant, kalidora;
• the second combines compact species up to 1 m in height - Alocasia sandera, Alocasia capulata, Alocasia Amazonica. The most popular for growing at home are Alocasia Polly, large-rooted, sandera, black velvet and others, distinguished by their original texture and color of foliage. The most popular for growing at home are Alocasia Polly, large-rooted, sandera, black velvet and others, distinguished by their original texture and color of foliage.

Large rhizomatous

Alocasia macrorhizomatous

A rather tall species, at home it grows up to 3-5 m, with a diameter of up to 2.5 m. Other names are mountain alocasia, lead-gray alocasia, thick-stemmed alocasia. In its natural environment it is found in South Asia, on the islands of Oceania, and in the tropical forests of Australia. It mainly grows in roadside ditches, along the edges of wet fields, near housing. Alocasia macrorhizomatous has various varieties and garden varieties. The leaf blade is a uniform light green color, very large, oval-arrow-shaped, more or less vertical, can reach 100-120 cm in length and up to 50 cm in width, the edges are soft-toothed and sinuous. The petiole is fleshy, strong, up to 60-130 cm long. The trunk is vertical, up to 1.5 m in height. The plant is listed in the Guinness Book of Records due to the gigantic size of its leaves.

Black corduroy

Alocasia black corduroy

A deciduous and decorative variety with a low stem (up to 10 cm), a round or oval leaf shape, 35 cm long, 25 cm wide, on strong petioles 15-25 cm long. Other names are alocasia velvet, alocasia “Black Velvet”. At home it grows up to 30-45 cm in height. The sophistication and unusualness of Alocasia Black Corduroy lies in the color of the leaves: the lower part is a solid green color, the upper part is velvety, rich dark green with a metallic tint and pronounced white veins. It blooms with a pink spadix up to 10 cm long, with a pink and white spathe.

Kalidora

Alocasia calidora

A popular hybrid obtained by crossing fragrant alocasia and alocasia gageana. Up to 1.5-2 m in height, the leaves are large, up to 1 m long and 50-70 cm wide. The color of the leaf blades has been preserved in its original form - bright green. The care and maintenance requirements are no different from other species, but this species prefers open spaces. Alocasia calidora is as fragrant as the “base” species.

Amazonian

Alocasia amazonica

A deciduous ornamental plant, a hybrid variety, obtained by crossing Alocasia Sander and Alocasia Lowe. The stem is 15-20 cm high, the leaves are dark green, thyroid-shaped with a Y-shaped notch at the base, on which individual lobes with clear white embossed veins are clearly visible. The edges are jagged or wavy. The leaves sit on long pink-green petioles with dark strokes, 40-60 cm long. The plant blooms with small white-pink flowers, collected in an inflorescence spadix 15-20 cm long, but does not bear fruit at home. Alocasia Amazonian at home has a height of 40-60 cm, the crown diameter reaches 60-80 cm.

Sandera

Alocasia sandera

Belongs to tall species. Alocasia sandera grows up to two meters and has a tuberous, shortened rhizome. Leaves are 30-40 cm long and up to 15-20 cm wide, thyroid or arrow-shaped, elongated, dark green in color with a metallic glossy sheen. The edges and lateral veins of the leaf are lined with white, the petioles are brown-green, strong and quite long, about 25-60 cm.

Large-rooted

Large-rooted alocasia

Another name for thick-stemmed alocasia, Indian or arma. Found naturally in Eastern India. In recent years, interest in the species has practically disappeared in Russia. Unlike other species, it calmly tolerates drying out of the earthen coma, temperature changes, and low air humidity. Large-rooted alocasia is a tall plant in cultivation, up to 1.5-2 m high, with a strong, fleshy stem. In the natural environment it reaches 5 m. The leaves are large, up to 1 m long, glossy, solid green or light green in color, on long petioles, arranged alternately.

Copper red

Alocasia copper-red

In cultivation, the bush reaches a maximum height of up to 1 m, the crown grows in diameter up to 1-1.5 m. The rhizome is creeping, 1-1.5 cm thick. It is the most spectacular, decorative and compact among cultivated alocasias. A distinctive feature of copper-red alocasia is the different colors of the sides of the leaf blade. The upper part of Alocasia is a glossy copper-green, the lower part is purple, red in color, which is why this type of plant got its name. The leaves themselves have smooth, solid edges, oval, ovoid or heart-shaped, glossy with a metallic tint, leathery, with beautiful clear veining, up to 32-35 cm long, up to 20 cm wide. In indoor conditions it blooms quite often, usually 2 peduncles -3 pieces of purple color, 10-15 cm long.

Dragon

A popular variety, it is sometimes called “dragon skin” because of the unusual texture of large oval-heart-shaped, slightly elongated leaves with a sharp end, reminiscent of leathery wings and scales. The light green color of the leaf plate with a metallic glossy tint is effectively complemented by dark green veins. Alocasia dragon is a low flower, no more than 1 m, with a short trunk and long light green petioles, bending under the weight of the leaves.

Red Secret

Alocasia red secret

The copper-red variety of Alocasia was obtained relatively recently; it is a miniature variety, reaching a height of no more than 40 cm. Alocasia Red Secret has large, fleshy, swollen leaves. The underside of the leaf of a young plant is red-green, becoming silver-green with age. Once a year it blooms for two weeks, forming a white ear.

Bambino

Alocasia bambino

A hybrid variety of Alocasia Sander, a miniature form of which is no more than 40-60 cm high. The leaf blades are dark green, narrow, arrow-shaped, with pronounced white-green veins. Alocasia Bambino blooms with white and purple flowers.

Venti

Alocasia venti

Perennial, reaching a height of 1.5 m or more. The leaves are fleshy, large, 50-60 cm long, 40-50 cm wide, gray-green with a glossy metallic tint, the underside of the leaf is dark red. Quite unpretentious to growing conditions. It grows quietly in partial shade, although in brighter light its decorative properties are better demonstrated. When provided with constant heat, Alocasia Venti grows well and forms daughter nodules.

Smelly

Alocasia fragrant

Another name is Alocasia Odora. It is a perennial herbaceous plant up to 2-2.5 m high, with a thick short rhizome containing a small amount of milky sap. From the top of the stem, on 1.5 m petioles, leathery leaf blades of a heart-oval or heart-shaped arrow shape are formed, up to 100-130 cm long and up to 1 m wide, short-pointed at the apex. The edges of the leaf are wavy, the lower part of the leaf fits tightly to the petiole. It blooms rarely, the inflorescence spadix has an original smell.

In its natural environment, it is found in tropical forests, bamboo groves, along river banks, and in swamps in Japan, China, India, Taiwan, Thailand, and Vietnam.

Rhizomes are often used in Chinese folk medicine to treat abdominal pain, cholera, hernia, and insect and snake bites. The perennial is inedible due to the presence of calcium oxalate. In Japan, there is a ban on eating alocasia. Odor's species is very similar to the edible plant Colocasia gigantea and Colocasia edible.

Polly

A tall deciduous and decorative hybrid of Alocasia Sander, often used in interior landscaping. Alocasia Polly is a compact low plant 50-65 cm high, with a shortened stem. Large shield-shaped, pointed leaves grow from a basal rosette on long, fleshy petioles. Leaf blades are up to 50 cm long and up to 20 cm wide, glossy, dark green in color with bright white large veins, with a jagged edge. Due to the shape and color of the leaves, the species is called the “African mask”.

Klobuchkovaya

Alocasia capulata

Rarely flowering, relatively low plant that grows up to 60-100 cm. Alocasia capulata grows in tropical rainforests in Western India and on the island. Burma. The leaf blades are large, dense, ovoid or thyroid-shaped, with rounded edges of a monotonous bright green color. In the natural environment, leaves grow up to 1 m, up to 60-80 cm wide, petioles up to 30-50 cm long. The trunk is thick, up to 5 cm in diameter, branching, reaching a height of 60-80 cm. With age, growing, it loses its compactness, as a result of which it is used for landscaping spacious rooms. Only the healthiest and most powerful plants bloom; the length of the peduncle is about 20-30 cm. The plant can create daughter tubers, they are located close to the tuber.

Home care

Large species love space and look best in large rooms, near artificial ponds and fountains. Compact types are located near beds, in the kitchen and in the living rooms. The only thing is that this species does not tolerate drafts and close proximity to working central heating radiators. Caring for alocasia is simple and some nuances in maintaining the perennial should not cause difficulties.

How to care for alocasia so that the foliage and decorative appearance of the flower does not suffer? Mainly, it is necessary to create conditions as close as possible to natural ones, then caring for the perennial will be simple. The plant can become not only an exotic decoration for the home, but also serve as a barometer, predicting a high probability of precipitation, so the appearance of water drops on the leaves indicates impending rain.

Watering

The moisture-loving houseplant Alocasia loves moist soil. In the summer, watering should be regular - once every 2 days, the earthen ball should not dry out. Use distilled or soft, settled water; the soil in the pot must be constantly moist; if water accumulates at the bottom of the pan, it should be removed immediately. In winter, watering is reduced. When watering, you should find a “golden” mean: you can’t help but add water, but it’s also dangerous to fill the pot, since this can cause rotting of the roots.

Humidity

Originally from the tropics, alocasia prefers high air humidity. To maintain a healthy appearance in the summer, the leaves of the plant are sprayed, the pot with the flower is placed on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay, but care should be taken that the pot does not stand in water, otherwise the roots may rot. In the cold season, when the central heating system is turned on, the pot with the indoor alocasia plant is placed away from the radiators, and air humidifiers are used to create additional humidity. It is useful to regularly wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or sponge.

Lighting

The tropical plant prefers bright light, but in summer it is better to shade the plant or remove it from direct sunlight. In winter, some species require special care; the alocasia flower (especially varieties of copper-red, Amazonian alocasia, Polly) should be provided with additional lighting.

Species and varieties with monochromatic leaf colors are more tolerant of lack of lighting; variegated ones require additional lighting.

Temperature

Temperature changes can cause deterioration and even death of the plant. In summer, the optimal room temperature is about +20°C, in winter it is not lower than +18°C. The flower should be protected from drafts.

Top dressing

Caring for alocasia at home requires the application of complex mineral fertilizer for indoor plants. In the spring and summer, this is done every 14-20 days. Potash fertilizers are most suitable for tropical perennials. During flowering, feed twice a month with complex fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. If the nitrogen content in the soil is insufficient, plant growth slows down and alocasia diseases may occur. In winter, the flower is fed once a month.

Soil

The soil for alocasia should be nutritious, medium density, loose, with good permeability to moisture and air, a substrate with a slightly acidic reaction. Prepare the soil for the plant: leaf, coniferous, peat soil (1 part each) and ½ part sand.

Possible difficulties

The perennial alocasia is a fairly unpretentious plant, but some problems may arise when grown at home. This is mainly due to errors in the maintenance of the flower.
Insufficient watering can provoke the proliferation of spider mites. Fading leaves can be a signal of both excessive and insufficient watering; you should review the watering regime or change the soil to a lighter and looser one. If the leaves begin to cry, you should reduce spraying and watering.

Slowing or stopping the growth of the plant indicates a lack of nitrogen in the soil; to solve the problem, the flower is fed with a urea solution at the rate of 1 gram per liter of water. If the leaf plates are too small, the flower experiences a lack of nutrients; fertilizing should be applied.

If the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, this indicates an insufficient level of air humidity; the roots are experiencing a lack of water.

How to save alocasia if it loses its bright color, which indicates insufficient lighting? In this case, the flower pot should be moved to a more illuminated place. If natural light is not enough, additional artificial lighting is used.

The appearance of dark spots on the leaf plate indicates frequent temperature changes and the presence of drafts.

When a perennial begins to lose leaves, check the rhizome for rot. If there is no damage to the underground part, the flower is transplanted into new soil. Alocasia is artificially put into a “dormant” mode, the flower pot is left in a cool, dry room, and when new shoots form, the pot is returned to conditions comfortable for the flower.

Why do alocasia leaves turn yellow?

What to do if the weather leaves turn yellow and lose their decorative appearance? The main reason why alocasia leaves turn yellow is improper placement of the flower. When exposed to direct sunlight for a long time, the leaves begin to wither, turn yellow and fall off. The optimal lighting for a flower is bright but diffused light. Another possible cause may be unsuitable water for irrigation, containing iron, salts and chlorine. For irrigation use distilled or settled water. There is no need to sound the alarm if one leaf turns yellow; this is a normal process, since when one dies, a new leaf appears.

Diseases and pests

Since alocasia is poisonous, it is rarely attacked by insect pests and is resistant to various diseases. However, if the conditions of care and maintenance are violated, the plant can be attacked by aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, thrips and scale insects.

When attacked spider mite thin white cobwebs appear on the underside of the leaf. They fight the pest by spraying the affected areas with a weak tobacco infusion, and sprinkle the places where the cobwebs appear with ground sulfur.

With the appearance of the scale insect, dark spots appear on the plant. They fight it by spraying with a soap-tobacco solution with the addition of kerosene or denatured alcohol.

When aphids appear, the leaves lose their decorative appearance, dry out, and become deformed. The pest settles on the underside of the leaf, feeds on its sap, and multiplies quickly. To kill aphids, spray a solution of nicotine sulfate with soap in a ratio of 1 gram of powder per 1 liter of soapy water.

Alocasia pests mainly appear due to low humidity and high air temperatures and stagnant moisture in the soil.

Pest control begins at the first signs of damage; leaf blades are wiped on all sides with a soap solution, powdered with ground sulfur; in advanced cases, broad-spectrum insecticides are used, for example, Actellik.

After treatment, a day later, the plant must be rinsed well in the shower, after covering the soil with film. If insect pests are detected, the treatment is repeated again.

Due to waterlogging of the soil, stagnation of water and too dense soil, the plant becomes ill with a fungal disease - root rot. For control, fungicides (Topsin, Fundazol) are used, the flower is transplanted into new loose soil, and the affected and rotten parts are removed. The formation of brown spots on the leaves of alocasia indicates a powdery mildew disease: in this case, the plant is treated with copper-containing preparations (Oxychoma, Polycarbacin). To prevent alocasia disease, the flower is sprayed with a soap solution and treated with colloidal sulfur.

Planting and propagation

At home, alocasia can be propagated in the following ways: cuttings, dividing the bush and planting seeds. Planting is done only in spring in fertilized loose soil. Choose deep flower pots with drainage holes at the bottom. The pot is filled to 2-3 cm with drainage material, then the soil is filled.

Transfer

Young plants are replanted every year in the spring, adult plants once every 2-3 years. It is necessary to provide a good drainage layer for better removal of excess water. For adult alocasia, transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method. If you plan to divide the bush, then the rhizome is freed from the earthen coma. Choose a new flower pot that is taller than the previous one and larger in diameter. The need to replant a flower is signaled by roots protruding from the drainage holes of the flower pot. In this case, the roots completely fill the entire space of the container, and the plant becomes cramped in it.

Reproduction methods

There are several ways to propagate alocasia: by seeds, dividing the rhizome (sprouts or daughter tubers), and stem cuttings.

Propagation of alocasia by seed has a characteristic feature - the variegated leaf characteristics of the plant are not transmitted. This should be taken into account when propagating species with variegated leaf blades. In this way, only alocasia with single-color foliage can be propagated.

Seeds are sown in spring in seedling containers with loose soil (peat, leaf soil and sand). During storage, seeds lose their viability due to loss of moisture, which is why sowing is carried out immediately after collection. Deepen it 0.5-1 cm into the soil, moisten it and cover the container with a transparent material (glass, polyethylene) to create a greenhouse effect. Boxes with soil should be located in a bright room at a temperature of +22...+25°C. The soil should be kept moist and constantly sprayed. After emergence, after 2-3 weeks, the cover is removed. The seedlings peak when 2-3 leaves form and are transplanted into individual small containers up to 7-10 cm in diameter. The next transplant is carried out only after the flower pot is completely filled with horses. The method requires patience, since only after 1 year large leaves appear on the young plant.

When propagated by stem cuttings in the spring, cut off a leaf with a small fragment of stem pulp at an angle of 45°. The cut area is sprinkled with charcoal and left for 2-3 hours. To accelerate the development of the root system, Kornevin is used: the cutting is immersed in this biostimulator for a couple of hours, then planted in a separate flower pot with a sand-peat mixture. By the end of the first month, the cuttings will take root, which will be signaled by the beginning of the formation of new leaves.
In the case of propagation of alocasia by offspring or daughter tubers, it is much easier to obtain a new young plant. Sprouted nodules are replanted when at least one leaf sprouts and opens.

Rhizome division carried out during the transplantation process. To do this, remove the plant from the pot and free the roots from the ground. If this is difficult to do, they are lowered into water. The bush is cut into several parts with a knife so that each plot contains one or more leaf rosettes or a growth bud. All cuts are treated with charcoal. After the plots are planted in individual flower pots. The room temperature should not be lower than +23°C; it is necessary to ensure regular spraying of new plants until the leaves on the sprouts become elastic.

Medicinal properties

Alocasia has healing properties; all parts of the plant have analgesic, antioxidant and antimicrobial effects. The ability to disinfect is used in the treatment of bactericidal and infectious diseases (streptococcus, staphylococcus, tuberculosis, etc.). Alocasia is used in oncology against cancer; the plant suppresses the development of cancer cells and has a rejuvenating effect on the body.

The medicinal properties of alocasia are used in the treatment of fever and malaria; the flower is placed near the patient’s bed, especially for coughing, sneezing and purulent wounds. It has a calming effect on the mental state, improves sleep patterns, relieves tension after stress, and helps with seasonal depression.
Using alocasia in landscaping design, it not only serves as decoration, but also disinfects the air, neutralizes various poisons and toxic fumes.

It should be remembered that all parts of the plant are poisonous; during treatment, the dosage prescribed by the doctor should be strictly followed; self-medication with the herb is dangerous to health. The sap of the grass is also poisonous; rubber gloves should be used when working with all parts of the perennial. Only one species is grown in culture (large-rooted alocasia), which has medicinal properties.

Chemical composition

Alocasia is not included in the register of medicinal plants in Russia; its chemical composition has not been studied well enough. The use of the plant as a medicinal remedy occurs in countries where alocasia grows naturally.

The leaves of the perennial contain phytoncides, essential oils, hydrocyanic acid, sublimate, and biologically active substances - alkaloids, flavonoids, coumarins. The toxicity of the perennial is due to the presence of calcium oxalate in the plant cells, which has a strong irritating effect on the mucous membranes and skin. Large-rooted alocasia contains mercury and cyanide compounds.

Contraindications

For safety, any use of a medicine based on the weather forecast is possible only after consultation with your doctor. It is prohibited to use alocasia for medicinal purposes by pregnant women, women during breastfeeding, and children.

Tincture

For preparation use alcohol (40% strength) or vodka.

Alocasia tincture is made only from leaves with petioles. Take one leaf blade with a petiole, finely chop it, place it in a glass jar, fill it with alcohol or vodka in an equally proportional ratio. To prepare medicines, take the lowest leaf, choose the one that has begun to die, but at the same time retains a green stalk. Leave for 2-3 weeks in a dark place.

Tinctures are used in various areas to treat many ailments. Compresses, lotions, and rubs based on tincture help reduce pain in joint diseases, myositis and osteochondrosis, and are used for thrombophlebitis, various skin lesions (eczema, psoriasis, etc.), and hemorrhoids. Used internally for the treatment of prostatitis, inflammation and pulmonary tuberculosis, blood diseases, mastopathy, and the formation of malignant tumors. When using the tincture orally, gradually increase the dosage. Doctors strongly do not recommend prescribing and using the tincture on your own. Only a specialist determines the course of treatment and the permissible dosage.

Leaf pulp

The medicinal properties of alocasia make it possible to create various healing agents. The pulp from the leaves is used in the treatment of joint, rheumatic and dermatological diseases. Only the lower leaves are used: they are ground in a mortar until smooth and used only as compresses.

A healthy alocasia at home has a well-groomed appearance, its foliage is well developed, and there are no traces of necrosis or areas of yellow, brown or black color on the tissue of leaf blades and petioles.

Plants adapted to life in tropical or subtropical climates require similar conditions when grown as indoor crops.

Plants belonging to the extensive genus Alocasia are native to the tropical rainforests of southeast Asia, the Pacific island states and northeast Australia.

Here the plants develop:

• with small fluctuations in average daily and seasonal temperatures;
• at high air humidity;
• in partial shade, hidden by the rainforest canopy;
• without experiencing a lack of nutrition and moisture.

It is not surprising that in such almost “heavenly” conditions, alocasia actively grows, producing new, bright, juicy foliage, multiplying and blooming.

Alocasia requirements for home care

But creating a semblance of a natural atmosphere and maintaining high-quality care at home for alocasia is not very easy. In summer, spring and autumn, plants need temperatures ranging from 21 to 26 °C. In winter, when alocasia enters a period of relative dormancy, a slight cooling of the air is acceptable, but not lower than 15–17 °C.

The most common mistakes gardeners make are:

• over- or under-watering plants;
• exposing pots with alocasia to direct, burning rays of the sun or excessively moving plants into the shade;
• without taking into account the plant’s requirements for the composition and structure of the soil;
• hypothermia of pets;
• allowing drafts in the room where alocasia is kept at home.

It is quite difficult to maintain the air humidity in the apartment required by the inhabitants of the tropics within the range of 60–85%.

In response to violations in care, alocasia becomes ill, which is expressed in a change in the color and tone of the foliage. Sometimes this is limited to spots of yellow or almost black color, necrosis of the tips of the leaves, but in some cases alocasia loses its foliage and even die. How to deal with spots that appear on alocasia leaves? And what causes these unpleasant symptoms?

The main requirements of alocasia are plenty of light and water. This is where the most common mistakes and miscalculations.

Alocasia leaves dry out due to improper watering

Summer, when the alocasia flower grows quickly and can bloom, should be abundant and frequent. The plants are irrigated several times a day with warm distilled water, while making sure that the wet leaves are not exposed to sunlight. If this happens, the drops act as lenses, leading to burns of the leaf blade and the appearance of alocasia on the leaves yellow spots. The tissue under the damaged surface gradually dries out, and if the affected area is large, the entire leaf may die.

For alocasia, not only the quantity, but also the quality of moisture is important. If a plant receives cold tap water that has not been previously settled, it will certainly react by rotting the root system, changing the color of the foliage and withering.

Gardeners also encounter the formation of yellow spots on alocasia leaves in situations where the plant lacks water or, conversely, suffers from an excess of it. True, in the latter case, the drying leaves of alocasia are a consequence of rot that has appeared on the roots, which prevents the nutrition of the aerial parts and destroys the tissue.

Alocasia should be watered at home when the top layer of soil begins to dry out, and in the depths the soil still retains moisture. When watering the plant, it is important to completely wet the entire volume of the pot, but be sure to remove excess water from the pan. On summer days, watering becomes more frequent, but when the air temperature drops, you should immediately reduce the frequency and volume of watering.

If this is not done, you cannot avoid not only the formation of spots on the leaves of alocasia, disfiguring the plant and weakening it, but also the development of diseases of a fungal and bacterial nature. In addition, weak specimens are more often affected by insects.

Spots on alocasia leaves due to improper lighting

The ideal lighting for home-grown alocasia is bright but diffused light, without direct sunlight touching the foliage. The sun hitting the plants leads to wilting of the foliage and yellowish-brown burns on it.

Lack of light results in elongation of petioles, shredding of leaf blades and their pallor.

Soil composition and the need to replant alocasia

Planting alocasia in dense, moisture-intensive soil leads to unpleasant consequences, where the roots suffer from both stagnation of water and lack of oxygen. This necessarily affects the condition of the leaf blades and the entire plant. Experienced gardeners recommend adding sphagnum moss, crushed boiled bark from coniferous trees, and perlite to aerate the soil.

To reduce the risk of possible diseases when caring for alocasia at home, the soil mixture is first disinfected, and a day later the tropical crop is planted.

With good care, alocasia grows quickly, so young specimens are replanted every spring, and adults a little less often.

The easiest way is to transfer the earthen lump into a new larger pot, and fill the free spaces with fresh substrate.

Without replanting, the leaves of an alocasia growing in a cramped pot dry out. And in some cases, the plant can lose all its foliage. The same effect is produced by the absence of fertilizing, which is necessary in spring and summer. When foliage is actively forming, plants are fed with complex formulations for ornamental foliage crops, slightly reducing the recommended concentration. In winter, fertilizers are not needed.

Temperature disturbances and low air humidity

A drop in temperature or drafts in the room where the plant is located causes the leaves of alocasia to turn black and dry out. Temperatures below 12–13 °C are destructive for the inhabitants of tropical forests, and even a short stay in such conditions kills healthy foliage even yesterday.

What to do if all the leaves on the alocasia have dried up? Is it possible to bring a green pet back to life, and how can it be made to form foliage again?

If alocasia is in dry air for a long time or its pot is located close to heating devices, you can observe how the leaves first turn yellow and then, starting from the tips and edges of the leaf plate, dry out.

If urgent measures are not taken, alocasia will shed its leaves, and increased watering will only aggravate the situation and lead to rotting of the root system and tuber.

What to do when alocasia has dropped all its leaves?

Firstly, in this case there is no need to rush to part with the plant. Often, by getting rid of foliage, alocasia reacts to flowering, which requires serious expenditure and effort from the plant. If the alocasia has faded, the peduncle is removed from it, the remains of dry foliage are cleaned and the plant is given a “wintering place”. With rare watering in a cool, bright room, the tuber will rest and by spring begin to form new leaf blades. At this time, it needs to be transplanted into fresh substrate and fed.

But what if all the leaves on the alocasia dried out after the soil was waterlogged or as a result of another mistake by the gardener? In this case, the condition of the root system is checked as an urgent measure.

The corm of a healthy plant is dense, elastic, without mechanical damage or traces of bacterial or other damage.

If rot or the presence of pests is noticeable on the rhizome, the damaged areas are cut off and the sections are treated with coal chips. When the root dries, alocasia is planted in moist, sterile soil. Then the pot with alocasia is covered with film and left in partial shade at a temperature of 22–24 °C.

Alocasia diseases and their treatment

It is root rot that is considered the most common disease of alocasia at home. The onset of the disease can be provoked either by excessive watering against the background of previous long dry soil, or by the plant being in excessive cold room, on a windowsill or in a draft.

If the rotting of roots located in the thickness of the soil is difficult to notice, then the spots of various shapes and colors on the leaves of alocasia should make the gardener seriously alarmed.

As in the situation when all the leaves on an alocasia dry out, this cannot be done without a thorough examination of the roots and removal of all affected tissue. At the same time, the damaged leaves are also trimmed. And healthy parts are treated with a fungicide and transplanted into high-quality sterile soil.

If rot is accompanied by softening of the tissues of the stem and petioles, and the pathological process assumes alarming proportions, it is better to part with the plant.

True, in this case you need to check the soil for the presence of daughter nodules, by planting which you can easily get young, healthy alocasia of your favorite variety.

Treatment of alocasia diseases should be carried out comprehensively and repeated if the signs of the disease do not disappear. In addition to the use of fungicides, be sure to provide care and provide the plant with all the conditions necessary for development.

Pests on alocasia at home

An important measure for preventing alocasia diseases at home is care based on the needs of the plant, and also taking into account the need to protect it from insect pests.

The most dangerous of them are thrips, aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, nematodes and spider mites that feed on plant juices. To detect insects, inspect not only the front side of the foliage, but also its back part, petioles, stems and axils.

• It is under the dried scales at the base of the stem and in the axils of the leaves that mealybugs like to hide.
• Aphids are most often found on petioles and at the base of the leaf blade.
• Thrips are dangerous because at different stages of development they can live both on plants and in the soil.
• There are also nematodes in the soil.
• Spider mites are recognized by the thin webs on the greenery of alocasia.

The result of the vital activity of all these pests is the appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots on the leaves of alocasia. As such damage grows, it leads to the death of foliage, and possibly the entire house plant.

Treatment for pests consists of irrigating the above-ground part of the plant with marigold infusion or ready-made insecticides. The foliage can be washed with a solution of green soap and wood ash.

When carrying out such work, it is better to cover the soil with film to protect it from waterlogging.

If alocasia is infected with a soil nematode, which can be easily determined by the characteristic nodules on the rhizomes, the plant will have to be destroyed. After all, this quarantine pest is extremely difficult to destroy, and its cysts are also found in the tissues of Alocasia.

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